A very good and informative video! I knew nothing about clutches before I started using a zero turn mower. I try to do my own maintenance because of the cost, and have replaced only one, so far. Not the easiest task, either! I appreciate you explaining the small things like engaging and disengaging the clutch and the wear and tear at different speeds. I needed to know that! Keep up the good work! Am looking forward to watching your other videos.
Bought a Toro 42 inch Timecutter last April. I wish I would have know this last year. Nothing was in the manual about this. I've always just turned choke off and engaged the blades and taken off. This was very valuable info to learn. Thank you
I found the information very complete and useful. The explanation of engaging the clutch at lower engine speed to prolong the clutch life was something I had been trying to find. Thank you for the informations and straight forward explanations.
@@WrightMowers depends on the brand of mower for instance if you have a bad boy Maverick zero-turn you have to have it at least half throttle or you will break a spring underneath there every time it's caused by engaging the electric clutch at too low of an RPM and causing a very violent surge
Binge watching your videos ed and I must say that I have never seen a company put so much effort in to educating the public. I feel that you and Wright care about the customers. I researched a lot of mowers before buying a scag tt but had not seen anything on wrights until recently I only mow my own property (approx 3 acres) and for some reason I think I need a commercial mower and I did not see anything about wrights nor do I have a dealer near. I will definitely look more into wrights when we get a dealer in my area. Thank you for educating everyone including myself as many thing you discuss apply to my scag and I hope to be a weight owner someday.
Thanks, we believe that if our customers are educated they will be more successful and their success is our success. By the way, I see your name is Ford Tractor--I have a 1940's 9N--great little tractor. -Ed
My Hustler Sport was running fine, when I was going to spray out underneath the blades would no turn off for me to lower the deck, it did turn off after a couple of tries. After lowering the deck and trying to turn the blades back on they would not come on. When I looked under the mower from the back the bolt holding in the clutch had backed out and the clutch had separated and the belt had pulled the bottom down. It is a Warner clutch and the rotor has quite a bit of rust on it. If I clean off the rust and replace the bolt, with the proper flat washer, there was no washer attached with the bolt, would I be able to reuse this clutch. I am not able to get the top part of the Clutch to turn loose from the drive shaft, or should I go ahead and replace the entire clutch. This video was very helpful to help me understand what is inside the clutch. Thank you.
wish i had thought of these yesterday... putting a genhead on my lil backhoe, and want the hydraulics off when required... the gensets already e-clutched. had a slip belt, seriously overestimated what an a-section belt can take on the hydro. about 2 hours a belt. no squealing, but you could feel it had no power... later calcs suggest i want FIVE! sigh, that was a beautiful overcenter setup! chop it off, scrap now... and of course, yesterday i cut an inch off the shaft for the gen pulley and flexible coupler on the hydro, deal with a clutch later, ha ha, rather than deal with an inch more overhang... and i bet its that inch i need to mount one of these, which, rather than forking out 3-400 on, i know i can grab from just about any wreck... looking at it, with the bearing there packing it out... GRRRR!!!!! meh, can maybe counterbore the pulley so it sits on the shaft a bit more, got maybe another 1/2" room. would have to mod the pulley still, but whatever. sigh. meh. i wonder if an AC compressor clutch will do it? i might go have a look. otherwise i gotta modify a pitbike one somehow... manual :)
Thanks nice video. Question engine off electrical power off on John Deere X300 no belt on clutch pulley should it free wheel when i turn it? Mine is hard to turn is that the brake you were referring to?
I would like know where I can get the big pulley that pressed on the bottom of the clutch. I try to find but with no luck they always want to send me to the smaller pulley. I have a machine shop will put in on .
Hey Ed, I have a small frame 36 stander Today on my first yard I noticed a slight sputter occurring every 30-45 seconds and then when I got to my 2nd yard the sputtering became more frequent - it only sputters after I engage the PTO and start moving - the sputtering gradually got worse as the day went up to the point where I had to switch mowers - what I've found that if Im sitting still with the blades engaged - it won't sputter but as soon as I touch my hydros it sputters. I think my clutch went bad what would you say about this? Ty so much
Great Video. I have a Gravely Rear Engine Rider with electric clutch. Blade stopped spinning one afternoon......Unplugged the clutch connector right at the clutch and started testing: . Got 12 Volts at the clutch when PTO pulled ( engine running).....Got the right resistance (4 ohms) at the input to the clutch ( connector unplugged engine off) ..........get the clicking sound from the Clutch when I apply 12vdc to the disconnected clutch connector. Because I got voltage and I hear clicking, can the clutch still be bad??. Belt is OK and spinning the pulley.
I have a cub Cadet lt1050 the blades turn when I try to start it. I took the PTO off and peace’s of the bearing by the pulley fell out. Replace the bearing and it’s still doing. The switch test good what could it be?
I have a Toro 212H wheelhorse. My electric clutch is still working, but when I engage the mower it draws some much voltage that the charging system can't keep up. Do you think I should replace the clutch, or check the charging system?
I have connected the wire and took a reading where it pigtail goes into the clutch. It settles down to 14.10 volts. With the pigtail plugged into the clutch I took the ohm's reading and it settled at 2.4. Clutch test says it is ok but why does it get hot and burn the wires?
I have a John Deere z425 fast trak zero turn 54" mower. It starts and runs good.And when when I turn the PTO switch on the come on and up to speed as the should. But with the deck up on highest setting as soon as I roll over grass that needs cutting it bogs down. and as soon as I turn off the PTO switch off it comes back up to speed. Any input on this would be greatly appreciated.
The clutch on my John Deere x354 screams when I shut down the PTO. Does indicate a problem with the brake set-up? When engaged it runs perfectly and makes no noise but it's clear something is rubbing metal on metal for a few seconds after I shut the pto off. Any help? Oh, the mower has fewer than 100 hours on it.
I have a zero turn ariens ikon x 52 inch mower. Is it possible the pto clutch destroys the belt during mowing the lawn. I think the clutch is going off and on during grass cutting (maybe heat problem). So the belt of the deck keeps coming off. I checked the deck and change the belt butt stil have the same problem. After destroying the belt the pto clutch didn't work for a couple of minutes. After that it works and I hear a click.
can the clutch fail to disengage when switch is off or wire to clutch is disconnected? I am having starting problems that feel as if clutch is engaged.
Thanks Ed, I am in the middle of being ripped of by CK repair in lansing mi. I should have paid heed to the reviews. They are charging $800.00 saying they have to get a new clutch from China. Of course it is Corona 2020. It has been 2 months now and they won't return calls less someone needs a pick-up.
What is the normal life of a clutch for home owner. I seem to get around 3 to 4 years on my Toro Groundmaster 120 uses a Ogura brand. I tried to use a Xtreme new model and they where to wide- thick to fit between frame and shaft to install so had to go with the Ogura brand I have been using over the years.
Ed a question, I have a Toro MX 4250 with approx 140 hrs on it (Apporx just under 2 years old). I look after it following the servicing requirements and keep it clean and lubricated as per the manual. My problem is the mower starts with the blades engaged all the time now...the PTO I believe has failed but I could be wrong. I disengaged the seat switch but made no difference, I pulled the PTO harness off prior to starting the mower but it would not start, I put the PTO harness back on started the mower, blades engaged and then I pulled the harness of while running but the blades kept engaged? I used to be able to hear the PTO engage and disengage the clutch with the mower off and key on, now I don't hear it.Your thoughts? Cheers
Wow, really not safe. It could be that the "springs" are jambed on the clutch. I'm actually not sure what clutch TORO uses on that model so can't be too much help. -Ed
please help me my clutch engages then for no apparent reason turns off. repeatedly I've replaced key switch, pro switch, and breaker switch. I'm told by a friend who gave up on this project that it's not clutch because he says when clutch dies there is no current getting to it. I'm stumped. 2004 cadet 1042 and thanks for video
Hi Bill, Cadet is one of my competitors and I don't know exactly how it's built. It might be the clutch--when they are cold they have a stronger magnetic field and get weaker as they heat up and the resistance increases. Just a thought? -Ed
I have a Cub Cadet 2186 (2002) that seems to be having PTO clutch problems. However, in my case I cannot DISENGAGE the clutch and the blades are always running. Does this indicate an electrical problem as opposed to a bad clutch? How does a clutch system get stuck in the "on" position? Thanks.
Ouch! It's likely a mechanical problem. If it's a Warner clutch (shiny one) the torque "straps" could be all buckled up forcing it to stay engaged. If it's an Ogura clutch (black one) the gap adjustment nuts could be a little too tight causing the clutch to drag. One way to diagnose it is to un-plug the clutch, then start the engine for a second to see it it's an upstream electrical issue or a down stream mechanical problem with the clutch. BE CAREFUL BECAUSE THIS IS AN UNSAFE CONDITION. I hate to be the one with bad news but it's going to cost you a few hundred bengamins to fix it, sorry! -Ed
Thanks. I took it all apart and one of the two bearings is frozen so I plan to change out the bearings. Is there anything else I should look for? I have the Warner clutch.
there is also a amp draw test that he didnt go over. when doing training need to do it 100%. also need to heat soak the clutch before testing might test good cold but bad when hot
Help please. Homeowner here. Our 13 y.o. craftsman zero turn has recently begun bogging down relatively easily. Since then my idler pulley exploded after a small impact. Replaced that, same problem. Replaced blades, better but problem persists. Recently also tightened my pto clutch gaps as this solved a similar problem before, so I think that's within spec. Maybe I over tightened or not enough? Belts appear to be snug. I had rebuilt my arbors and bearings at the beginning of the season. Any other ideas, please? Thanks
One thing to keep in mind - if you have a 2 cylinder engine, you can lose a cylinder for a multitude of reasons, and the engine sounds close to normal - until you load it down. Shut it down, disconnect one spark plug and start it back up. If it still sounds same, reconnect and remove cap from other spark plu. If it isn''t starting, or runs terribly rough - that's the dead cylinder. Run a compression test on both. Had this problem with a 16HP Snapper - tried everything until I saw someone list this as a possibility. Not the answer you want, but until I engage deck - I can run the thing all over the yard - tow a sprayer, etc - seems fine - but loading that engine down with the deck - no go!
That's a great primer on these clutches. Can't wait to tear into mine that's slipping. NOT, but at least I have a better idea what I'm looking at Unfortunately, I never heard of you guys when researching mowers.
We have a Stander X: @ approximately 400hrs, the clutch position key bolts fell out and the clutch obviously spun until the pigtail pulled out. Fortunately, I was able to replace the bolts, plug the clutch back in, and keep the crew mowing. My concern now is the delay in clutch engagement. The unit is at 700 hrs and several times a day we have several 4-5 second delays upon engaging PTO switch. Dealer hasn't determined error, and could be more present as unit heats up. I am concerned the initial incident may have stretched the wiring, or caused some premature clutch wear or damage. Is there any service pointer for such an issue? Thanks!
Pristine, These are completely different type of failures. It's likely the clutching surfaces are getting warn and so the gap that the electromagnet must pull takes longer. The magnet is stronger when it's cold. If it works quickly in the morning and slower after getting hot, it's likely it will need replacing soon. -Ed
Thank you for the reply! I will investigate more and attempt to get the unit to the dealer for testing when it is hot and the delay interval is longer. -Andrew
It is likely that you can simply adjust the air gap and get back the performance of the clutch. This is a standard and supported fix for this issue. The air gap should be .015 - .020 using a feeler gauge.
Have you ever heard of pto clutches ruining drive belts? My 36 fixed deck stander keeps chewing drive belts after about 30 hours. Ive checked the idler pulley already. The wear seems to be on the inside of the belt.
My lawnmower blades are cutting in out after starting the pto after a few mins. It will start shaking and you can see the pulleys slow down. Got any ideas? It has an electric pto. It is almost like the clutch is engaging and disengaging
If its clicking in and out it's probably upstream of the clutch in the clutch wire, platform switch, blade switch. Usually once the clutch begins to fail from wear it works when cold and then won't work when it's hot and once it's engaged it doesn't kick out. Also, if you have a Stander Intensity we have heard of a few reports of the wire kinking and breaking between the platform switch and the main harness.
I got ya. It is actually a Husqvarna RZ 4623 but your video was really informative so I thought I would ask. I was thinking the same thing. Same thing with the PTO switch it should either work or doesn't. I am thinking a short somewhere. I heard one guy say something about an electromagnetic coupler. Do you know what that is? I can't find any info on it. He said that was what was wrong with his.
I have a b&s 17hp 42" Troy's-bilt riding mower that will not fire I have replaced the coil checked the plug still no fire! Can any of the switches or safety switches cause the coil not to fire. PLease help
James, do watch out for the little thin wire going to the coil. If that wire is connected and grounded out it will prevent the coil from firing. (Caution, if you start it without that wire, you can't stop the engine). Also the gap between the coil and the flywheel should be as thick as a business card. -Ed
My engine on my Wright stander chuggs and struggles when activating the pto, no matter where the trottle is set at. I’m not sure where to start , electrical or is the engine not getting enough fuel or electric when activated? Once it gets a little warmed up it does better but still not how it should be
@@thetreestand8873 If your engine runs well without the pto engaged it is likely somewhere in the deck. Possibly pto or even spindle or pulley bearing. If it is seized or sticky it will take more force to spin. Once it gets warmed up it may turn more freely. Only way to know for sure is to turn them by hand, no belts, and see if they are smooth and quiet, not too difficult on most machines, though you may have to remove items in some instances.
