You never showed the roof structure, but extending the height and bolting it into the roof joists means it can't tip out without taking the building with it. Also, for anyone considering this, price out angle iron and a welder. At least where I am, that is cheaper than all that lumber for such a small rack.
I built the same idea, but used one 2x4 with 1/2" plywood cut into a similar shape. Glue and screw the plywood to the 2x4, extend to the ceiling and tie in there. Holds as much lumber as you need and cost a LOT less!
Bear, I’m a tool and die maker so I work with metal chips all the time and have never seen that plastic bag and magnet trick and that simple hack just blew my mind. Also the build looks great! Will probably be doing with this with scrap 2x4s
Excellent lumber rack! Normally you would never line screws up like that, but you glued everything so well, it won’ be an issue . These will hold anything you’d want to put on them.
Interesting choice for the bolt position. Agree they are probably overkill’s anyway, but worth keeping in mind that what’s resisting the torque on the arms is the combination of the two bolts plus the glue join between the arm and arm support 🤔🤓🤓 #geekout
What about the wall..is not this the weakest point pulling the wall over..I am not an engineer. But when loading weight on all the Racks the wall itself could fail let alone those angle brackets Walls themselves are design to transfer weight down now this weight is creating tipping pressure on the wall Hmm concern this could make the whole wall dangerous Once again I am not a engineer nor do I know how your wall was constructed
Good overall video of explanations and techniques of the build. Very good beefy lumber rack. The one thing I am asking about is the work shop concrete?? If so, you might want to put Seal sill to protect the bottom of the wood. Seen untreated wood touching concrete had rotten effect on it in a few years as the concrete wicks water into the wood.
Whoa those things are beefy! What's the reason for the L-brackets versus just countersinking a long lag bolt straight into those wall stringers? The only thing that comes to mind is your stringer spacing is 24" OC and it looks like your rack spacing may match that.
Actually my original design was to use countersunk lag screws. But I decided to do the L-brackets for two reasons. 1. The L brackets provide more aid to side support 2. If I missed the stringer in the wall a bit with a counter sunk lag screw I wouldn’t be able to move the hole very easily without losing some strength
very nice racks...only thing that caught my eye was those 3" or 3.5" construction screws into the OSB...didnt seem like you really hit anything behind it?? plus, if there was no blocking behind it, those screws have a smooth shank towards the head of the screw, that has absolutely no grabbing power once it punctured thru the OSB...just make sure you got some 2x blocking where those braces went...if not, that rack will come down the hard way if loaded to the max...1/2" osb wont hold crap...just my 2 cents
There are 2x6s in the wall that I screwed into. I definitely wouldn't trust OSB to hold hundreds of pounds. The screw heads won't pull through because they're going through the l brackets
The racks are a solid design. Although the load is, mostly going down, there is a major load pulling the racks from the wall and there is where your flaw exists. The rack is held to the wall with small screws and unless my understanding is wrong, the studs in the wall are 16” off-center and you are placing these where they will not match up with the wall studs so the screws that hold the L-bricks go into 3/8” wafer board and nothing else. If this is true, I would never use this design as to the distance between the racks and how they are attached to the wall. Have a great 😊
I’m in a pole barn so I’m mounting into the girts that are horizontal and 24” apart. If you were to build this on a wall with normal 16” studs you would want to mount a couple ledger boards into the studs first then mount the rack into those boards
Metal brackets: from the engineering standpoint you just need some to pretend the rack falling of the wall at the top. All others are not loaded as long as the racks are not buckling due to down forces. Just look at Euler's buckling shapes 😉
I like #10 structural screws over nails mainly because I can drive them more accurately and they have very similar shear strength to nails. But you can definitely build it with nails instead.
He must be a millionaire using that much wood for storing wood if you don't use it up fairly quickly you will able to make a boat hull out of the wood.😂 I don't know but would it have been cheaper to get ruff cut lumber after it was dryed for that application you cut it all down anyway good job😊
That magnet in a bag trick is really cool ... I have done something similar using a paper towel ... that way you can just throw away the paper towel, but there is a risk of dropping the magnet into the garbage, dont ask how I know!!
It looks like a great job and while the build will hold the weight I don't feel each pair of brackets that hold 70 lbs. is strong enough to prevent a breaking tip over. I would add support to the wall or build the rack independent of the wall.
great build ,just a question wouldn't adding a bit more support below the first arm to make it thicker help the wall from pulling in or warping from all the weight of the wood that is going on it help in the future to keep the wall straight ?
Yeah, I'm starting to move to paid plans to help pay to keep the shop on the website up and running. Trying to keep everything relatively inexpensive and a majority of plans are still free
@@BearMountainBuilds All good buddy and the value far exceeds the money charged. Just bought some extra plans. your ultimate storage shelves was very fun to build. thanks a lot.
i love watching your build videos! Thanks for all the hard work you do in producing them. You explain how and why things are done the way they are! I have 2 of your projects in the works now..Keep them coming my friend!
Nice work & decent design... but definitely NOT the strongest lumber rack I'll ever see.... The steel I-beam lumber racks at Lowe's & Home Depot can hold about 6,000 pounds per arm.... Now affordability wise, that's a whole other ballpark!
Great looking wood rack. I think i would have added the feet to the rack to be used as a shelf and great support .. as it looks now like waisted space there now. Great job.
I just built this. Made it double sided and it mounts to the floor and ceiling, instead of single sided mounted to a wall. I also used 2x4's for the arms and 2x6's for the central column. It is SOLID and works very well! Thanks BMB!
There are a couple reasons 1. If I missed the location for the lag screw I was screwed 2. The L-brackets give better side to side strength 3. The L-brackets are easier to install 4. The 8 structural screws are stronger than one lag screw
Excellent Build. My problem is that I can't touch the floor because my shop has a minor flooding problem. However, the base of mine would end up being secured to a solid block wall. And, as you said, I believe the wood frame section of my wall would fail before the racks do. Thank you for sharing and God bless.
I really appreciate how you incorporated the physics of design into these shelves. They look so strong that the next guy will have to build a shop around those racks. I couldn't find the plans, but I'm really interested in the 2 x 4 rack. I have a much smaller shop. Thanks and keep up the great work.
Are you an engineer because you speak very much like one? Currently I am an engineer student who got into woodworking and I enjoy it a lot since I can incorporate some things that I have learned
