@@Bbeavis It looks like I did ok. Sometimes you buy the seller as much as you buy the car if that makes sense. I always find its worth paying a bit more to buy from a pedantic owner.
Another thing worth looking at is the frame rails to make sure they're not completely snashed. Many aftermarket frame rails are available but if they are smashed and you dont reinforce them, your chassis will feel like a floppy wet noodle
Actually I don't know how I forgot to mention that... I'm sure I'd taken some footage of the frame rails on the car. None the less, thanks for the reminder!!
Very interesting video Brendan and the bit about the automatic transmission made me laugh haha! I will be sure to recommend this video to drivers who want to buy their first Miata!
Friday i will hopely Buy my first miata. Its a 1994 with 130hp in dark Green. I Hope everything will be okay, because the Journey to the miata tooks about 5 hours. ☺️☺️
Nice vid! It's probably worth mentioning that on an NA it can be hard to hear the weird rattles and knocks when you hit a bump over the sound of the expected rattles and knocks when you hit a bump.
I guess the point is, it's hard to tell what is an EXPECTED weird rattles and knocks, versus the BAD/UNEXPECTED weird rattles and knocks. :P HAHA - That's the life of an NA owner.
Fuel economy took a real dive. Having tracked a problem to the MAF, I cut out the top and in inspection found solder had sagged from one terminal to short the one below. I separated the circuit with a flick to the molten solder bridge and got back to normal. I siliconed the lid back and we lived happily ever after.
I’m hoping to pick one up soon that popped up for sale about 20 minutes from me with only 55,000 original miles. This video helped me out a lot, thank you!
Great video for real. I learned so much during those 17mins that i downloaded it to rewatch on my way to the seller so I don't forget to check those things
I’m dying to get a maita , to young to drive on the street yet but just to work on it and modify it , it’s my favourite car and they are getting more expensive by the day so I’ll have some saving to do , great video and keep up the good work
Great video and very informative. Thanks! I've had three of these over the years. Big thing I found is that if the car has been in an accident they seem very hard to get perfect again, meaning take it out on a smooth road and get it up to 65 MPH and see if it shakes. This car is a unibody so when it gets out of alignment you will hate driving it. Also, make sure the top doesn't leak and look for a window that wasn't taken care of. These plastic windows must stay flat and not fold over when the top goes down. It IS a pain to use the zipper and release the window but if you want the window to stay nice that is what you have to do.
Hi Scooter, thanks for watching and for the suggestions. I agree, I'd always suggest taking a car for a reasonable drive on a variety of environments before making a potential purchase.
The brake slider pins needed to be freed and greased on two NBs I've owned. I've heard they don't lube them from the factory!! My NC had plenty of grease, however. This was a very good guide. You've touched on all the areas that my months of research on the forums provided. If you need a quick top, check out the salvage yards. You may be able to get a top with frame that you can swap in with four bolts (NA NB frames are interchangeable but the vinyl or canvas is frame specific).
I'm interested in buying a '99 Miata with 168k miles (270k km), so this guide is super useful. I've mostly ever driven and worked on '90's Nissan's and am used to that engine but I can't find a decent 2dr coupe that isn't beat up to all hell. I'm giving Mazda a chance
Check the front chassis rails and the sills.... these cars are ace but they rust like mad. Upper inner rear arches turn into weetabix, you can quite often poke your fingers through the front chassis rails and the sills are ball bags .. be warned
Nice, I’m on my second stock NA. Had one in the UK about 20 years ago, now I’ve had one in Queensland for a couple of years. I prefer the weather here! One day I’ll get a top with a glass rear screen, that’s a top upgrade if you drive roof up much ... not that I do ...
Totally agree about the automatics; they are an abomination on a sports car (or any car, in MHO)! FTR, I drove my 1994 125K miles, after I bought it at 40K, and yes it did need brakes, tires, top, etc. (I put Koni adjustable shocks in when I bought it, which never failed), after reasonable amounts of time/miles, and I did replace the interior with new Katskins and a nice plush carpet, but the one thing that did fail, twice, nearly leaving me stranded both times, was the clutch slave cylinder, and mine never got spongy, it just suddenly stopped disengaging the clutch! But I forgave it that, as it was otherwise extremely reliable. I sold her after 11 years, because I also had an SUV which I needed more (a Toyota 4Runner, which I still own 14 years later, also with a 5-speed MT), I didn't have a garage, and didn't like taking care of 2 cars, HOWEVER, I plan to replace it soon (I now have several garages, and cars). Miatas are GREAT, FUN sports cars, that are also relatively cheap, and cheap to keep.
I drove an early 90's NA MX-5 with an Auto trans, it was genuinely pretty atrocious. In contrast, a 2016 ND MX-5 with a modern auto trans is a much sharper and more pleasurable experience. Perhaps far from as nice as a manual, but it's definitely nothing to turn your nose up against.
Ahhh 😱 of course ... this is Australian... Uk weather is horendous so all our miatas are rotten looking as skid marked pants. They LOVE rust ... you’re so lucky to have a warm hot country
HI I'm 50 years old and bought my 97 MA MX5 Manual Blk/Blk soft top in 2016. When I purchased it, it had a clunk on 3rd, prev. Owner didn't do any maintenance. That Helped me negotiate a under her. KKB price point. So for $2100.00 worth $ 3100.00 Low miles just over 100k she was now mine, but 1 key and alarm fob for the trunk, doors and arm rest. Took it in and that clunk? I put back into her the money I saved at purchase. No rattles or engine sounds at all. After paying for a new drive shaft, later new radiator, A/C, Timing Chain, water pump and Alternator. I look on the bright side, I have meticulous service records and she is golden under the hood. Road trip in 2017 from CA to Georgia and back safe and sound. To comment for the older crowd, it's very low so if you have back, Hip or leg issues; it's not the best fit for you. However, this car is my fun car, mid life no crises, drive my grandson for ice cream, feeling good where ever you go car. I've noticed that bumps are feeling a bit harder on "my bottom" and looking into new struts. It's a classic ride for those of us in the classic catagory. In regards to parts, Mazda does not carry the soft top, window assembly, rain guard, speed sensor for the 1997 manual transmission (code B0500 unable to smog if not fixed) they state these have been discontinued. I suggest you pick up as many small parts in advance as they will only get more expensive. Pick a parts, seller/buyer apps (offer up, let it go, Craigslist or Ebay) or even FB Market you can find everything you need. Go for it! Enjoy!
You missed two critical areas. The chassis legs and the drain hole area you did mention, if not kept fastidiously clean then you get water onto the back of the dills which also support the seat belts and those two areas are the main reasons to walk away from buying the car
The facelift mk2 is really prone to rust on the front chassis rails, sills and rear arches, mostly in countries that salt the roads. Easy to fix and prefabricated sections for all are available, pretty much every body shop here in the UK has experience of MX5s.
Hi mate, just found this video, thanks for the info. I'm hoping to purchase and NA in the next few weeks. Two questions... 1. Is there a way to identify the short crank / big crank via VIN? 2. Is there a preventative "fix" for the short crank issue
1. In my opinion, regardless of year/VIN, always easiest & safer to simply check the ‘slots’ on the crank pulley of the engine itself, always a chance that an engine has been changed at some point over the years. 2. This link details most everything you need to know: www.miata.net/garage/crankshaft.html
@@Bbeavis next thing I have to worry about is aligning my soft top fully 🤣 it doesn’t want to align properly when I clip it and it leaves a gap between the windshield frame and soft top
Nope they are generally very reliable. Perhaps some people have to replace the linkage arms but they are a simple swap and still available as a genuine part from Mazda.
Do all of these things also apply to the NC? I know a lot of people hate how they look, but I like that it kind of looks like a mini rx-8. Your guide is really useful by the way, I haven't heard anyone actually mention any of the problems a mx-5 might have. Also I live in europe btw, so the chance to find an automatic car is quite low.
The NC uses a completely new platform that isn't directly related unlike the NA/NB which are quite similar to one another. So, while general advice may be applicable, this video doesn't specifically cover any of the NC's strengths or weaknesses. Good luck with your search of an NC, and thank you for watching!
Is a miata worth it? I have no license yet and I'm already looking for a car in advance I've been thinking of a 323f or a Toyota celica AT160 because of seats and trunk space But now I'm thinking of a miata or a Mazda 3
"Is a miata worth it?" - That's totally up to you mate. The Mazda MX-5 Miata is an awesome sports car, small, cheap, reliable, not a lot of space, not super comfortable for long drives, a good aftermarket community, lots of guides and help online for them, some are starting to get a bit old and rough. But you have to choose what car suits your needs and budget.
@@Bbeavis btw i wanted to say thank u & i appreciate ur help & advice recently on fitting a 15x8 wheel on my 99 miata. i did a little diggin per ur advice & found some folks called "18racing" that carry many different sizes of those rota rb wheels like the ones i asked u about that u had on that red na in ur video. ive read in the forums the supposed (?) ideal offset for a 15x8 is 36mm, but theyve got an 8" with a 35mm offset, so im thinkin thatll be close enough...? (now i just gotta talk my wife into gettin em, cause "technically" its HER car, & if im a good boy she lets me drive it hahaha!) im really enjoying ur videos, & im extremely thankful for u being so willing to help ur fellow enthusiasts & share ur knowledge, expertise, & good advice. god bless ya bro, & thanx again!
I am curious about the air intake. Pretty cool and by the looks of it seems to scoop some proper cold air. Would you be able to share who you made or from where you bought it? Cheers
Nice one mate. I brought a 1.8is back to France from the UK in May and I'm loving every minute of it. I spent 9 months in Melbourne in 2008/9. Great city, great country. Now that would be cool: live in Melbourne and have an NA as a daily😊😊😎😎. Just the job for a trip down to Belgrave and puffing Billy on the week-end. ... Great vidéo. Keep them coming. Any up date on Sams white 1.6 since the start up in épisode 5?
Thanks for watching Robin! It's certainly a great place to live. :) Sams got his car on the road and registered now.... hopefully sometime in the next few months we'll have a video update of him taking the car out to a trackday!
Hi Shaun, If you are committed to an automatic transmission, the NC and ND models do actually have rather good and capable auto transmissions that are still quite fun. You'll want to steer clear of the NA/NB models however.
@@Bbeavis Hi again Question how is your area of the forrest fires?. My condolences to the people. And the poor animals. Much worse than our California fires. I am so sorry ! Insofar as driving in New York City( yes I was born and raise in Manhattan. I now live in the Bronx. People are nicer in the Bronx. But I am always a New Yorker. Driving. You just have to jump into driving in New York. Our worse drivers are Taxi drivers and Lorries, rushing to make deliveries. Most people think that New Yorkers are rude . We are not rude. Two things we are always in a hurry and the city changes so quicky we don't know where address are. The true rude people in New York are Texans and Russians who believe to live in New York, one must be rude Wow I am so jazzed that you keep texting me. Oh I subbed your channel All the best Shaun of NYC.
@@shauncampbell969 Thank you for your concern, the fires are very much a concern for our country in many ways. Economically, agriculture, climate, along with many people who have lost homes, and some who have lost their lives. Moments like this cause a lot of arguments and discussions from people like politicians, but thankfully while the government may be useless, so many average people are coming together to try help each other and save what they can. Personally, I live closer to the suburban area where we do not have immediate risk from the fires, but I have had friends trapped due to road closures, and we personally are seeing LOTS of smoke haze and unusual weather as a result. Thanks again!
Great Video Sir! Informative... tempting to get one myself :D Anyways, whats with the Automatic Transmission? Any particular issues with that as compared to the Manual one?
There aren't any known common issues. But for the NA and NB chassis, the Automatics were archaic and certainly don't compliment the "driver centric" experience that an MX-5 is known to be about. However, if you are set on an Automatic, highly suggest you consider the later NC or ND chassis as their autos are far more complimentary and pleasant to use.
@@zhain0 How has the car been one month after? What did you get and for how much if you dont mind me asking, Im looking at getting one this week maybe.
@@NobleGangsta13 I got a 1.6 MK1 import, turbo conversion and a few other bits, 120k mile chassis with a 60k mile engine. I paid £4, Had no issues so far! Just make sure u wait for the right one.
Absolutely want one of these! I'll be on the market soon for one and I want it red with at least power steering, though I'm on the fence about whether a manual or automatic will do me best. Most people say manual is the way to go...any thoughts?
thanks man for the previous comment! When do you recommend modding a Miata and what mods should I get(after I convince my dad to get me a manual one)? Also where do you think I should get a Miata from? I’m from Australia (south west NSW) and so far the cheapest I could fine was around $11k. Is this a good price or do you think I could find a cheaper one in 1.5 years?
You can mod your MX-5 whenever you wish, for suggestions, try this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_E-dO18QqI8.html ...or this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-cau3GrpYthc.html If you need a hand to find a car, ask a friend/mechanic/etc to help you out and check out some cars with you. Obviously carsales/ebay/gumtree are the best places to look. Price depends on what model/year of MX-5 you are after really, certainly they aren't going to go up in price in the next 12 months.
Great video, very informative! My '92 NA had some of the issues you talked about (valve tick on startup, slow electric windows) when I got it. Second your advice about looking for a long nose crank since the short nose ones (pre 91) are eventually prone to fail. Im looking to get an NB now but the NA is still a fantastic car
It could one of these: Worn upper shifter boot. Worn out upper fuel pump tank seal. Leaking fuel filler or breather hoses from the fuel tank. Leak in exhaust system.
The MX-5's originally came with a Panasonic sealed AGM battery and was safe to store in the trunk/boot. A lead acid is in some ways inferior, and prone to leaks and the production of gasses not suitable for the trunk space
great vid - what price bracket should i be looking at for a solid condition nb miata in the australian market? and are there any good communities/sites you'd recommend to go to when looking to buy? i find that some of the prices on facebook marketplace, etc are unreasonable e.g upwards of 12k for high mileage. cheers!
Current prices versus 1-2 years ago are insane. Currently seeing them all priced at over $10-12,000 or so, whereas previously they were closer to $6-8000. I'm not a car salesman so cannot say where the best place to buy is, obviously just Carsales/Gumtree/Facebook are your best 3 options.
Super reliable, only thing I can really say is the clutch master and slave cylinders have a tendency to go out but that's honestly a fairly easy fix, just bleeding the clutch can be a pain lol
1.8s are not "better". They have more power, but they don't rev as easy as the 1.6 and the extra weight sort of offsets the small power advantage. The 1.6 is more fun stock, but the 1.8 has the advantage of being better when modded. They two are simply different and each have their good points and bad points.
This is certainly the "excuse" that people have used for many years, just as they are saying nowadays for the 1.5ND vs the 2.0ND. The fact of the matter in both cases is the larger engine is superier. Except in the case of the 1.8 BP engine, we have better aftermarket support, more interchangeability of parts, and a superior basis for modification. The weight difference is really not as much as people like to suggest. The reason the 1.6 doesn't feel as slow as it perhaps should, is because they came with a quicker ratio differential to compensate for the lower power output.
Hey Sonny, I've honestly got no idea about Tan interiors getting anything unique, there were many special edition versions of the MX5/Miata released around the world with certain markets getting different configurations to other locations - there's a good chance that some form of Special Edition was released with Tan interior and an LSD rear end. Also don't think 'posi' is the right term in the case of Miata's.
So many variables, location/condition/model/year etc that I cannot say... Plus prices right now are very eclectic, changing by $1000's over the space of a few months. Around my area, hard to find any MX-5's for under $10,000 nowadays. A good condition NA with hardtop would be near $15,000AUD
BEAVIS Motorsport, got a black 2001 Jasper Conran edition for 550 but it kept cutting out after about 10-20 mins, changed the crank angle sensor and now it runs very nicely other than slightly smokey, very minimal rust though which is good, very happy about it 😁
Hey Flame, no it is a Lightyear Fastback made here in Australia. You can see some old footage of the original manufacturing here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4UokNZ5_EjQ.html And here is the preparation and painting of the top on the white car: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-l4Dm-zKLxj0.html
Hi just a question I hope u can help me out looking at buying a 1.8na that was previously a auto it's been swapped over to manual.should I be worried about anything in particular.thanks in advance
@Bbeavis how much would u expect to pay for a 1995 1.8l mx5 with around 200000kms and would u say that the engine would need a rebuild with that many kms.
@@rickportela6009 Price depends hugely, location, condition, service history, paintwork, etc. A rough price might be somewhere around $10,000 to $16,000 for 'most' cars (exceptions to that range may be highly modified or showroom quality cars). Similarly, a reasonably cared for car with 200,000kms could easily still have another 200,000 or more in it, or it could be on it's last legs if not serviced or neglected such as let to run low on oil.
@Bbeavis thanks .I was looking at something that has been repainted and we'll looked after.it is a 4 hour drive from me so was thinking of getting a mechanic to overlook the car first.
