UNBELIEVABLE !!! The Vintage BMW 1602 / 2002 Is On The Lift !!! How Rusty Is It ??? 

Please consult a professional lift installer and tell them what you ran into with the bolts. And please invest in the tall jack stands. Always good insurance especially for a lift that doesnt have top brace.

Hey There, I think you'll be fine with your anchors. I've been installing industrial equipment for the last few decades. Installed thousands of anchors of all types and made just about every mistake you can make. Sometimes small voids in the concrete or not blowing the dust out of the hole will keep the wedging action from biting, which is why they may not all pull up to the same height. So you can leave them as is, as long as you still have the minimum embedment, or drive them back down, and try again, like you did. A word of caution though, I wouldn't use the impact. Over torquing and you can pop a hole chunk of concrete out (I've done it) especially if your slab is still kind of green. Huge fan of your channel. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us.

If you're still concerned about the safety of the lift, I would do two things: 1) check to see if longer anchors are available for the concrete thickness you have (9"), and 2) install a brace across the tops of the uprights. A brace tying the tops of the uprights together will stop them from canting inwards toward each other if the floor anchors fail at any point.

Hey Nathan, you should be using M24 x 280mm screwed rod sunk into epoxy cement in 26mm holes. I fit cranes and that's your minimum requirement for 5 metric ton

I am always nervous under a car lift after my friend nearly got crushed when a cable snapped and only for his quick reaction and tidy garage(nothing in the way) he escaped but the car and the lift went for scrap

Remarkable how little rust there is underneath it for the age, looks very good. Well done on the channel as well, things are really progressing fast now, look forward to seeing more

I love the simplicity of that car. Beautiful.

1602 shaping up to be a fun and worthwhile project. Looking good man!

After you've lifted the car up and heard clicks on both sides, press the lower lever to lower it onto the safety guides, just remember to hoist slightly before pulling pins to lower to floor when finished.

You gotta use Redhead concrete sleeves under the flanges then screw in bolts or they won’t hold.

Just got off the phone with my Dad, because he knows more about 1600-2 and 2002 BMWs than I do. I think this series will be fun to watch! Can't wait for the resto. I don't which would be worth more OE stock resto, or resto-mod. Got do some research on what parts fit from the 2002s, E21 320i, and E30 BMWs if you're going to do a resto-mod and keep it looking somewhat stock. I think there tons of parts out there for these cars including the BMW Mobile Tradition Parts catalog from BMW AG.

What a simple, straightforward car this little BMW is!!! ❤❤❤❤

Excellent video Nathan I’m looking forward to the restoration of the 1600.The lift brings great views to your videos 👍

The 1600 will be one sweet car when done.

That M10 was state of the art back then: it had 5 crank bearings instead of the usual 3, it had duplex chain driven overhead camshaft instead of the usual pushrod setup. It had an aluminium head instead of the usual cast iron head, It had crossflow headdesign with angled valves. There is a good reason that the 1600Ti and 2002Ti were race winning touringcars. Same deal for the 6pot M30 in the Bavaria (E3) and E9 coupe. Great engines! One minor design flaw: because of the slant the exhaust valve stem seals are almost always dipped in oil and they tend to harden. When you come off the throttle from high revs the engine will suck oil past the exhaust valve guides and burn it (blue plumes! on decel and between shifts.

Love that 1600! I’ll bet the engine is stronger than a 9 month old horse! I don’t think you’d even need to tear it down; probably just end up throwing a full gasket set at it ... maybe the head gasket and a new timing chain for good measure ... clean it up and paint it and you’ll be good to go! They were a simple car back then but they more than made up for it 50 years later!

I agree bigger bottom plates on the lift poles makes sense.

The shop I used to work at had a 4 post bendpack lift that wasn’t even bolted down. Always sketched me out, they claimed it was so they could move it

Great to see a 1600 in that good shape. Had friends with 1602, 2002, and 2002tii. Great little cars although the gear ratio gaps on the 1602 were a little frustrating.

M10 timing chain covers are notorious for weeping oil. This is such a great example though. Clutch cylinder seals always pop when you start using after periods of inactivity though. All simple stuff.

This is the kind of BMW to own! Note that it is NOT rack and pinion steering.

I'd buy or fab a top brace that connects the 2 sides together, because if the bolts do pull up, right now the only thing holding the arms from pulling the posts inward is their grip on the bottom of the car. If you wouldn't trust it to lift a 1 ton diesel, I wouldn't stand under a bmw on it either.

The 1600 is straight forward; what you don't go through you can't trust for rubber failure. The lift towers can stand straight vertcle---but that don't mean they are the same height from the center of the Earth. Get a straight edge, that you trust, clean the top of those base plates, put the straight edge and your 4ft level (or longer) to see if the bases are on the same plane. You already realise that when you have a car up and remove a heavy component that it can affect balance fore to aft. PROVIDE FOR THAT As to the base plates you can buy some 1/2 or 5/8 armour grade steel cut to larger rectangles, drilled for the same bolt pattern and shim underneath for wider base---still would be able to drive over the center cable protector hump--just a few ideas congrats

Nathan I would never use a lift without a top brace my indy guy has one and you can easily make something for the top of that I would not take a chance on being under a with that setup no way man

so excited for whats to come! i would for sure contact someone who installs lifts about the issue you had with the bolts just in case. But i am very excited to see the new shop! keep up the videos and ya - i would loose that x5

There's still a good bit of work ahead of you, but dang, that puppy is clean. Great find. Can't wait to see it done.

Would still install a top brace too.

HA! I knew you would have a video with the lift in action quickly! Nice

Not sure if it has been mentioned or not but the 3 pieces lift arms should be on the front side of the lift. This allows to not have to pull in so far and also keep the center a gravity at the center of the lift since most vehicles are front heavy. Also makes it much easier to get in out of vehicles without hitting the lift posts.

BMW GOAT! Can’t wait for Nathan to install a Big Single turbo on my N54! Let’s go #GapAMK4Supra

Get you some red head concrete wedge anchors . We use them for industrial equipment.

I understand your concern about the lift bases. Ideally you would fit a cross brace but it limits the usable height. You might think of fitting a strong guy wire either side to a bolt some distance from the base so that the tension is pulling sideways rather then upwards on its fixing bolt. Just for peace of mind.

I've use those type of anchors before and they worked great but I never used them for your type of application. I just keep a eye on them if your like me. All in all it looks great.👍👍

Change them to a normal French bolt type and not that collapsible one. Also, use proper glue/cement in the holes rated for this kind of install and let the whole thing dry before trying again...that looks sketchy. Oh yeah, acc. to your level both posts are leaning in ^^...

Use Hilti expansion anchors and five will hold a side easy. They expand in the hole with i credible pulling resistance

Such a cool car,,, love the lift,,, much better than the forklift method I use,,,,

Probably should cut the concrete and hire a contractor with hydraulic auger and sink a shaft 48 inches into the soil, then install a steel and concrete anchor. Or get a large 1/2 - inch steel plate and lay flat on the floor, but you'd trip over that all the time and the bolts should be counter sunk in the steel. I paid $100 for a 48-inch deep by 12-inch diameter hole to be drilled in rocky soil - pretty much solid rock here in the Texas hills. That is a small price to pay for safety.

There is a specific torque for those anchors if they don’t tighten up you should go to the next size up anchors using the proper drill bit I mistakenly used a bit that was to big on the first one I put in mine and it just did not quite tighten up I had to use a larger anchor

The lift is the ticket!

It would be better if it came with L brackets on three sides of the beams, that extend 7 inches with anchors every 2 inches. Ten anchors total with that small of foot print with 10k stretched outed, they should've given more margin for error. They're asking a lot. I would do a torcher test, get the heaviest thing you got, and go up then down rapidly and repeatedly then observe flex if any. If you run it through its paces and it Bo's up, there shouldn't be a problem holding a static load.

I would run some cables and turnbuckles from the top of each post to the closest top of wall for extra safety

Nathan, there will be a steel erector nearby, please ring them and get professional advice and fitment - this isn’t bolting a shelf to a wall. The anchors look to be incorrectly fitted if they’re allowing the base to rotate towards the car. Oh, and don’t drill through your slab waterproofing!

Get some lag bolts

Why cheap out on your own safety ! You should have a professional install the lift, specially if you are going to be under a car.

Sounds like soft cement

On your lift why dont you weld a larger plate to the one on there now to add more bolt downs and to spread the load out a little bit more ? I would imagine using one thicker than the Manufacture used would Be Structual enough to handle the loads they claim the lift is spaced to in the past ive helped freinds bolt down their 2 post lifts using the same hardware you did and utilizing the holes /plate that was on the lift that was over 12 years ago and to my knowledge there hasn’t been any failures as the shop is a very busy repair and Hot Rod shop owned and Operated by two brothers Ive known for many years I really do like that 1600 of yours when i was only a young boy i had a Uncle that took me for a fast ride in his 2000 at the time that was fairly new (early 70s )

OEM 1600 exaust, if it's solid, have it blasted, and painted with HVT high heat paint....

Make a review on that Walker zero turn mower

Hi Nathan I'm in Sweden and here's a link to some of my 02 BMW. Hakan

What’s the towing capacity of that 1602/2002?😂😂😂😂

That looking at base and saying nothings happening means you are concerned and paranoid. Shiuld have got a 4 post and then they cant fall down.

💪😁