Aaron - I just replaced a PZ27 carb on my RPS Viper because it sat up for more than a year and the float needle was stuck preventing fuel to empty into the carb. Pull the original carb off thinking I could service it but notice the bolts heads were removed. what the heck? I tried to drill out but messed one of them up so I order a new carb. Put on the bike and when it starts it races wide open on the choke. What is happening? If I open the choke it spudders and has no power.
Absolutely enjoyed your video man your speed with the key info input with the cause /effect explanations and not all the unnecessary talk just all directly to the point is awesome and honestly didn't feel that waste of my time/ waste of my life feeling that all the rest usually give.. I cant appreciate this video anymore I wish all of them were like this. Good stuff my man good stuff... Dead serious I don't even comment on RU-vid or videos like this but felt compelled to go and say this exact sentence this very moment. Thanks man
I only try to make the best and most important information to go into the videos! Im glad they helped you out! Thanks for watching and supporting the channel!
My bike had bigger jets in it but I kept fouling plugs so we put it to factory sizes and now it runs good but now it takes like 20 kicks to start it and it doesn’t seem to have as much torque
I just wanted to say I appreciate your time great knowledge on the carburetor wasn't quite sure what all the screws were but now I understand I do appreciate it very much great video
Well when you have a choke turned on, it’s reducing air flow, resulting in a richer mixture. If you open the choke (aka “off”) your leaning the mixture by re introducing the air flow. If the bikes stalling out when you open the butterfly valve (the choke) that makes me thing you’re mixture is too lean. Meaning you should have to richen up the fuel mixture! Hope that helps!
@@AaronsEnduro I think I have the same problem. Choke off meaning all the way up or all the way down? And what needs to be done to richen the mixture? thanks!
250cc buggy is running pretty rough, when throttle gets to about 40-50% starts to choke and sputter as if the tank is Empty. I need to come off the accelerator to prevent stall. Will have a go tinkering with the needle position or the mixture screw at the bottom and see if I can fix this.
Id check your spark plug to see what colour the plug tip is to help indicate if its leaning out or bogging out from being too rich. Then you can adjust the fuel screw accordingly! Let me know how it goes!!
Thank you! This is the best explanation video on RU-vid. I do have a question, the casing that my idler screw fits into broke off. Will fixing it back with a steel putty hold it? Or do I need to replace the whole carb?
@@AaronsEnduro okay thank you because i believe when im hitting bumps the bowl runs low of fuel finally gets pass the play spot and overfloods carb and leaks out bowl drain hose... thank u
I just rebuilt a crf 80f carb and checked the float bowl height, the jets are good and clean, it idles fine... but when I brap the throttle it boggs and then the rpms take too much time to come back down... why is this?
If you think its bogging you should check your spark plug color for fuel mixture. As for the revs staying high, didnyou change your clip position? And or possibly the throttle slide could be sticking in the top of the carb
Hi Sir, I have a 1976 Suzuki TS 185 which I’ve owned from new and just completed a full motorcycle refurbishment and now I’m trying to get the motor to run right. The motor starts up fine using the choke (UK 1000 feet above Sea level) and runs more or less perfectly until around 4000 rpm and then it starts to misfire and if I try to open the throttle more, then this results in total engine cut out until I close the throttle again. I believe that the issue may be related to the needle position (not sure where it is at the moment) and I assume that I may be too lean and need to raise the needle but your knowledge and experience here would be much appreciated ! Would you kindly give me some much appreciated information please ? Thank you for your excellent video ! Please keep it up.
Id start with pulling the spark plug to see what colour the tip is to give you a better indication if it is lean or rich. Then start to move the needle clip position in the direction needed
Hello and thank you for your very informative video. Issue #1 @2:45 you point to the brass tube where the main jet is located and clearly state that you don't need to remove this or the air/fuel mixture screw. Are you serious young man ? I just cleaned one of these carbs last night and I can tell you that little tube has 12 tiny micro holes located along the throat of that tube . . . if you think of a clock analogy and looking straight down the tube's length, there are 2 holes straight up at 12 O'clock, 4 holes at 3, 2 holes at 6 and another 4 holes at 9 O'clock. These tiny micro holes get clogged too. When you disassemble a carburetor you completely disassemble the entire thing. You never just do part of it. Reason stands, if there's wax/tarnish in the bowl or anywhere else in the carb like that green stuff growing in your bowl, then it's in all of the passages, pin holes, crooks, and corners of the entire assembly. What you are stating is to . . . only do half of the job. Also, when you clean a carb, it's best to soak it, as well as all of it's parts in an ultra sonic cleaner with the proper solution in it and a working heater. Why would you not remove and clean your fuel screw ? See sentence above regarding all that green crud inside your carburetor. How do we know where it's set and how do we reset it after we've disassembled and properly cleaned everything. You didn't include that. Slow down you're presentation a bit, you're talking too fast. Clarity and understanding are more important than whipping it out faster than Speedy Gonzales. Other than that, great video young sir. Keep it up, and maybe edit this video to include those tiny bits of information for setting that carb before you reassemble it. Just my two cents.
Hey! your videos have been super helpful, however I still have questions. I took the throttle cable out of the valve, and now I can't seem to figure out how it goes back together. I've tried looking it up but all the videos I have found have slightly different components than the ones I have. but in this video I'm seeing all the identical parts to mine! thanks!
a simple yet very informative video....a lot of same content but this is where i stuck from intro til end... 👍👍👍🔥🔥 ..shoutout to trail riders of tagum city, philippines
Just cleaned the carb because it wouldn't start up. It starts up now but it's very loud and rough. I haven't tried going into gear 1-4, but should I? Just to see if it's the same for the main jet or will it blow the engine or something. I have a semi automatic so it won't actually move without use of the throttle. Also, I'm aware I have to go back into the carb, how much do I tweak the pilot jet and main jet? One more thing, the carb had gas in it and I had to hold the floats up to make sure the gas didn't leak. I turned the fuel off as well. Why was it leaking out and how can I get it to stop?
Nice video, the piece you left in the carb could get contamination and cause a bunch of problems. Doesn't hurt to remove and make sure all holes are clean. Got to airiate that gas!
When you switch from stock air box to cone filter.. the pilot jet, and main jet need to be swapped for bigger sizes and the need washer to be a little lower right?
1. Its a fact you can tune an aftermarket carb, the stock ones arent bolted shut and they use rivets to keep you from dissembling it. 2. If you notice any bogging or hesitation when on throttle
I have a 2018 crf 125 f and I can’t adjust the float level because it has a set float level anyways I cleaned the whole carb and airfilter and it spits and spudders when a I give it full throttle I need help
Helps out SM! I have my ssr 140 and it has the mukuni vm26 carb and after about 9 months when I try to kick her over and I wap the throttle back it bogs but if I SLOWLY give it throttle she’ll start and breath and once she’s warm she’ll idle fine , any tips on how to get back to normal 😩
I turned up my idle screw and that helped out but haven’t adjust needle clip or fuel screw or jet but after watching this I’m gonna try to the best of my ability’s ! 😅
Id say itd be your needle clip position, just odd that it all of sudden happen it’s happening. Did the bike sit for 9 months straight? If so first id start with just cleaning the carb out (especially if you’re fuel that contains ethanol)
Perfect, dude. I'm dealing with a 2019 Apollo Enduro. Changed the carb but they didn't give me a Japanese replacement! But now I know what to do. Muchisimas, bro.
@@AaronsEnduro Hey Aaron, thanks to you I was able to bump up the idle and enrich the mixture. The backfire went almost completely away but it still sputters on acceleration. mostly in the mid RPM's. The manual says it's supposed to use 93 octane gas. It's 12hp/7000rpm, 17.5 ftlbs torque at 5500rpm and is supposed to idle at 1550rpm at higher altitudes, which is where I am (!) No pun intended :-) And an over head cam. Is that kind of cam normal for a bike like this? Or nothing special? What am I dealing with here? 9.6 :1 compression ratio and we measured the compression which was at least 150psi.
Put the cable through thr carb cap, put the spring over the cable, Compress the spring over the cable, then feed the throttle cable tip into the carb slide. Its a little tricky holding the spring all the way compressed against the carb cap
hey I have this carb on my bike and i’ve cleaned the whole thing out plenty of times and it still bogs like crazy but when i put the stock one on it doesn’t bog like that do you have any tips?
I just got a new carb and when I have the choke off it idles fine but trys to shut off when I give it more than a little bit of gas but when I have the choke on it trys to shut off when I'm not giving it gas
My problem is i cleaned the carb on my sons 01 xr200r and now when it starts is idling high and even if i turn the idle screw in it revs even higher and if i turn it out it doesnt really change when i sprayed starting fluid while bike is on to check for vacuum leaks none but if i spray into the airbox the bike idles down im lost lol
My assumption would be you put the throttle slide in 180 degrees wrong (the tube that goes in the top of the carb which the throttle cable is attached too.
I can go for a day of riding and not have to think about it ever. By the time were done with the day its got a 1/8-1/4 tank left. Lets say 6-8 hours of riding for me a tank
I have a mid rev problem, bike starts and runs, on low revs accelerates fine, on full revs, accelerates fine. When sitting steady at half revs,it stutters.I stripped and cleaned the carb using your vid, still the same, any ideas? Thanks in advance
I tried adjusting it with the mixture screw but i didnt realise the part that the cable attached at the top had adjustment so I'll check that and adjust it one groove if it has adjustment on it, cheers
Man im friends with some big youtubers for foxbodys you explain and talk like you have been doing this for years you are doing a great job man your going to blow up i just found your channel and subbed you ever think of buying a SUR RON X e bikes up and coming and great for content
Well i aint gonna lie, ive been trying youtube for 11 years now! 😂 this channel has been my successful one (having started it in 2017 but starting to take it seriously in 2020! Thanks for the support and watching the videos! I always open to new bikes and ideas! Just $ that is limiting me!
Hek yea man thats good i hope it really takes off so money and sponsors start coming in for you and yea im looking at getting the sur ron x for trail riding doing the 72v swap on it after i buy these 2 rfz pit bikes next month
That’s exciting! You should make a video on your sur ron! Would love to see it!! (If you end up ordering those RFZ’s online you can support the channel at no cost to you by using my links to buy an RFZ!) Apollo RFZ x15 125cc Small Wheel: amzn.to/3e3Q0BI Apollo RFZ x18 125cc BIG WHEEL:amzn.to/3eatOrp (backup link) amzn.to/3v1nPeA Apollo RFZ x19 125cc HEADLIGHT & BIGWHEEL:amzn.to/3rdANDO
It should just fall inside the throttle slide. If it doesnt its been messed up when u removed it. Either way i really dont think its that important. It doesn’t affect the needle or spring position. Just jam it down in there
Hey man, I have an 02 yz426 that has a hot start.the bike only starts with hot start engaged but dies immediately after letting it out. So I believe too much gas is getting in the carb? What do you think needs adjusting? Thanks !
This is what i found online: “The carb is the single most common source of starting problems with the older 400's and 426's. You have to get the idle jetted and trimmed out almost perfectly in order to have them hot start reliably. The bike should only need the hot start for restarting immediately after it's stalled while running. If it's been sitting for 5 or 10, it should restart without it. An even slightly rich idle will make the bike difficult to restart when hot” How valid is it , not sure. But something to go off of. Im not too familiar with the 426 setup in particular
Glad i found this video I'm a total noob my pit bike is bogging in 4th gear at higher throttle think it might be something to do with the carburettor. This video was helpful. Want to learn more before messing with it.
So I bought a bike that hadn’t ran in a year, I cleaned the carb and then it started and ran for a day. The next day the bike wasn’t starting so I thought I’d order a new carburetor. I put the new carburetor and new fuel into the tank and the bike still won’t start. Then I proceeded to change the spark plug and it still won’t start. The bike has compression and everything is changed but the bike doesn’t want to start. Are there any other options?
might want to check your info on the air screw. if you turn it out you are making the mixture LEAN. if you turn it in you are making the mixture RICH. (i think you say the opposite in your video.)
Well specifically im referencing my fuel screw. I may have said it like “air/fuel screw” But if adjusting the fuel screw my wording is correct, if you’re carb Specifically had both a fuel and an air screw, then yes it would be the opposite of what I’ve said for the air screw.
Great job on this! Concise and thorough, and very helpful. How does the fuel screw actually adjust the mixture? Does it effect the mixture at all the jets? How is adjusting the fuel screw different from changing all the jets and raising or lowering the needle?
The fuel screw is a tapered screw that lets more or less fuel pass through the carb body from the float bowl. The fuel screw is like controlling the fuel flow. While the pilot and main jet are are nozzle’s the fuel flows out of. Think of the fuel screw like the knob of your your garden hose where you turn on or off the water. And the jets are the nozzle on the end of the garden hose controlling how much comes out of the hose
