Great video, clear, concise and no uneccessary waffle. I'm partially deaf and didn't miss a single word. Bonus points for no distracting waving of the hands and tools.
Great video! Very well explained and informative. I've seen quite a few chisel related subjects, however none have been more to the point and well detailed. Thank you once again ☺️
Good content, and well delivered. However there was no information regarding the actual use of the firmer chisel, which was the only info I needed. Thank you for the education, it is very well appreciated.
Excellent video. I learned a few things about chisels I never knew before. But there's one thing you didn't include. How to actually use one. Many woodworkers don't realize that you can use chisels in either the bevel up or bevel down position. And each way has a very specific purpose. A chisel will always dig into the wood away from the bevel. So cutting bevel up will force the chisel deep into the wood for a more aggressive cut. Flipping the chisel and cutting bevel down is useful for shaving thin layers of uniform thickness and for creeping up on the final dimension. This comes in very handy for tasks like mortising hinges. Where the mortise needs to be the same depth across the entire mortise. This holds true for all types of chisels and greatly improves the accuracy of your cuts. Thanx for the great video and sharing your knowledge and experience. 👍
Hi, I am a new subscriber to your Chanel. I have a way of creating a micro bevel chisel that was taught to me by my shop teacher in 1961. In short, hollow grind the primary edge 25 degrees then go directly to the stone, all the way to polishing. I have only ever done my construction chisels this way. It is fast and you can repairs your chipped edges quickly. Best results from a 6" grinder. Perfection on Chisels descriptions, thanks'!
Great video, as always! could you go over how you sharpen chisels properly? I have some chisels that I like but they are dull and I find a lot of conflicting information on how to sharpen them properly. I have a whetstone for my kitchen knives would that be appropriate?
Hey Freek! That stone might work, but you will need other stones as well. Normally you need three different grits... 1k, 6-8k, and a finishing stone 10-20k.
To jump in here, I don't think your knife-sharpening set-up is going to be optimum for chisels. Reason I say that is because knives and chisels are two totally different cutting surfaces. I used to be a slaughter-man that needed sharp knives, I use chisels at home these days, the two don't even compare to one another.
Can I ask, what about inletting chisels? I bought a set, felt sharp, but the work was less than, I probably could have done better with my X-Acto set, and construction set. Thanks
A ferrule is to prevent splitting of the handle when hit. Mortise chisels often had two attached top and bottom of the handle to prevent the ferrule being driver in from blows and provide protection from the hammer blows destroying the handles. Those unsrewable type handles are not at all common.
I am doing an apprenticeship and I don't see myself buying a "fine woodworking chisel" before three to four years. I will keep using the construction chisel, f*97 it.
Many Thanks for the great video, and information. Wood River products are made in China. Not only using slave labor, but there are no environmental policies to protect the air and water. The price one pays is all profit to the company, at the expense of humans and the environment, I refuse to buy anything Chinese, especially since there are so many better manufacturers at just a slightly higher price.
Word. Since it's pretty much impossible NOT to do business with China in some way - we all should be on the lookout for times when we can choose to buy something else. Hell with ethics and the environment, those are nice and all, I just want to know that I'm not supporting such a treacherous, selfish, and brutal civilization.
