Thanks so much for this video. I was very interested in the rear glass weatherstripping. Mine needs to be replaced. My local LR Specialist told me that it was a very big job that required the glass to be removed. Maybe he isn’t so “Special” after all. My RR is a 2011 HSE Lux. I suppose everything you showed would be the same on mine? Also, top marks for providing the part numbers!
@@jerrygreene7139 No, there is no leaks without them, as the seal to stop water getting in is below the rear tailgate, so all they do is direct water down and off the upper tailgate. However, they look odd (imo) without them and a bit unfinished. Moreover, I like things to be where they should on a vehicle, so I like to have everything exactly how it’s should be (give or take). In respect to your vehicle, yes, the 2011 is the same as my 2010 - but the video also shows a 2011 (my friend’s). As indicated, you probably could carefully put the bottom sticky pad on if you use the method i showed you towards the end, but it would be tricky. You would need something like fishing line or a fine scraper to get the old part off and to clean up the door where it fits. That said, I inspected the parts I fitted for this video yesterday when I did a service on it, and they are in perfect condition and haven’t moved without the bottom fastener, so I think you would be fine without it. I think I also mentioned that mine have broken there anyway and haven’t fallen off yet😆!
At 12:25 of the LED installation. I've always understood it is a heat sink for the LED. Halogen bulbs melt the ice and snow on our headlights and rear fog light. LED does not. I'd be interested in any experience you have with ice/snow melting, or, not.
Hi Richard! Good to hear from you again! Interesting question. The LEDs do make quite a bit of heat (but not anywhere close to the heat from a Halogen bulb). However, I have never had any issues with ice build up on the lenses (and I have seen some serious cold conditions here down to -80°c with windchill). I’m not sure that there’s any benefit from the heat radiation from a halogen bulb which improves over the LED (L663, L550, L462, L405, L464 and others are all LED). The little box thingy is actually part of the circuitry required to fool the canvas and to smooth the voltage for the LED rather than being a heat sink - though the bulb has a little fan on the back to dissipate heat. That fan will be helpful in circulating air in the headlight unit and reducing condensation.
Interesting! I hands my heard that they have a D3S - is it still Xenon or LED? I wonder if it requires some canbus tweaking to work with the HOD units?
@@robholland1937 Ahhh! I will have to take a look at Sam’s new video, then! I wonder if they are much better than stock. I run the Osram Nightbreaker in my HID dip beam. They’re good, but do not provide the depth of light offered by the LED main beam.
Can you share the link to his dip beam LED replacement? I can’t find it in his listings - I know his channel fairly well, but I don’t remember seeing anything for the dip beam HOD replacements.
Price and availability! I have not seen any Osram H7 LEDS (or Phillips for that matter). I do like Phillips LEDs - they are very good quality - but these are excellent value and also work very well (I have used them for four years without issue). It may be the case that others were not available at the time (I can’t recall). I am not suggesting that you must fit this breed of light - more showing the viewer how to install them and the ones I happened to use. You can select your own preferences - I have just been very happy with these for the price!
