This channel is largely devoted to my journey with Land Rovers, the videos posted to the channel include both the ups and downs and the content is hopefully useful to everyone! In the videos you can find information on how to change your oil, swap your winter tyres for summer tyres, and how to use the ATPC (amongst other things). Some of the videos form a VLog of my trip to the Arctic Circle and detail both the journey and thoughts on the new Defender. From what I can tell, I am the first person to take an L663 into the Arctic Circle.
I hope that these videos can be useful and informative, but the commentary and discussion is likely the most important part. Feel free to weigh in and ask a question or contribute some knowledge. Owning a Land Rover makes you part of a family, and this channel is the front room! Feel free to let me know if there is something that you would like me to cover or some topic that you feel would be helpful to other Land Rover owners!
great content thanks for sharing. One quick question, in the video you showed how the tire gonna be like under off road mode and normal driving mode, I wonder will they rub(touch) when it's lowered even further, to the etrance mode, which is another 4cm lower? thank you! great looking car with great looking tires!
I run the newer Outpost nATs on my 2004 v8 4Runner in Calgary. I am really pleased with them for now and hope to test them out further during the winter. They are lighter than the 10 ply KO2s I use on my Tacoma and I can't really say I've noticed a significant difference in traction.
That’s a good comparison feedback! Thanks for the input. Did you get your new Nokian ATs from Kaltire? I’ve heard some people are having difficulty finding stock!
@@frustratedalien666that’s what I thought. I’m glad they now have stock again. I’m not sure why they ran out, but for a while they were impossible to find (from all accounts).
Fast forward to 5:25 if you want to skip past all the “preamble”. Connect only an AGM charger, negative post first, then positive, then plug in the charger. Then you might as well stop watching after that.
I actually just serviced it last week (late! I’ve struggled to get to it with one thing or another). This one has got 135,000miles on it now. Nowhere near my last one (over 700,000miles). No check engine lights, but I have developed a slight clunk at about 10mph when slowing down. Sounds like a worn bush, but it’s not consistent and very hard to identify!
@@rippinmachines yeah! I cover a fair few miles, to be honest! That’s why my last one had such big mileage. It’s dropped off a lot this past few years since Taryn and I separated, but I used to cover around 35-50k per year (and in the old L322, sometimes more)!
Hi there. Your video was very well put. Now I've had a problem with my 2022 l663 d300. I was towing my 2 tonne caravan when I lost all revs and power.I managed to pull over and turned everything off.It must have reset because seen i turned on the ignition inhad revs do i set off again.1 mile down the road it did it again,no power or revs. Landrover assist came out and the throttle body sensor was the fault code. Now landrover have had my car 3 weeks and cant get the code to come back on through test drives n such. They have done a number of tests and software updates and still can't get the fault to re appear. Will they try and give me the car back? Have you any advice please? Uk based
Hey Ryan, I’m sorry to hear about your issues! I hope it’s resolved soon. I’m afraid I don’t have any good experiences for you. JLR denied my issues existed and refused to resolve them altogether. I sold the vehicle a couple of months after trying to send it back with 53 documented (by me with video and ECM data). I don’t know how best to advise you, but I suspect they will try to hand the thing back to you unrepaired. The term they used here was ‘fault not verifiable’ - despite my showing the garage manager the fault in the parking lot! My only advice is to record every fault you have on video and then take screenshots of any codes generated. This didn’t work for me, but it made the matter much harder to argue!
awesome video, very informative ………..just about to buy a 2010 hse non supercharge, came from florida so rust at a minimum but been down in New brunswick for the last 2 years , has high milage , but willing to take punt ……..
Hey Wougle! Thanks for stopping by the channel! I hope the video helped (with the oil, that is). I’m pleased you enjoy listening in - there’s an odd hour or two of content to wade through! I’ll ramble on some new content when I get a minute! Good to have you here!
Hey guys question, I have a 2010 RR Sport 5.0 Non supercharged. I stopped driving it when the timing rattling started. Literally started it to pull forward a little to have it towed and it started fine but then cut off while idling. Have any of you guys replaced the chains and the motor ended up being fine? I've heard mixed stories😢
Hey Larry, That’s a tough break; startups are really hard on a chain, as the oil drains from the tensioners over time, permitting the chain to slip. The answer to your question is that it is occasionally possible to have avoided any damage, but it’s unlikely. The engine is a transition engine (meaning that there’s no room between the valves and the pistons if they hit top dead centre and the valves are improperly open due to a slipped chain) and so damage to at least one of the pistons and valve sets *usually* occurs. That said, some people have got away with simply replacing the chains and tensioners and booting it back up. You won’t know until you start to pull it apart! Good luck!
@@shedlock2000 Thanks so much my friend for the good info. I found out today I was one of the Blessed ones as my mechanic put everything back together and she fired up happily. He says she is even smoother now so I'm excited. He is a bit old school so I'll have to reset my maintenance required and reduced Performance warnings myself as he told me I dont like tinkering with the on board computers on these lol
@@larrygoode1753 That is excellent news! I am pleased to hear it. It largely depends upon how quickly the engine stalls out when things give up. Sounds like you were lucky! I'd buy a lottery ticket this week while you're up! In terms of avoiding the issue again, I recommend more frequent oil changes (at least every 5000 miles or so). Resetting the faults will only take a GAP IID tool or similar, and should be relatively easy to achieve. I am certain that you either have one or know someone with one! Godd luck with your ride and I am glad she's rolling again!
@@shedlock2000 I appreciate you my friend! I'm very excited 😁 and your absolutely correct I know a person with one to reset everything. I read you can reset those fault codes with the truck as well? Possible myth lol
@@larrygoode1753glad that you have someone. I actually don’t know the answer to that - I’ve never tried resetting them without a code reader! I always recommend throwing the reader on in order to check what else may or may not have cropped up.
Oh! It’s not like me to overlook the process! Bad Firthy! Ok, the switch simply pushes in, however, you need two curved plastic trim tools to press it out. If you look closely in the body of the switch, you can see the clips that secure it into the dash. Using the two trim tools. You should gently press out the body of the switch by sliding the edges of the tool behind the lip of the button. If I get a few minutes, I’ll try and record a video on how to do it.
Glad the video helped! I ran the 265/60/20s off, and they were great all the way through with no issues. You may even be able to tweak the speedo now with the GAPIID tool.
Excellent instructional video! Thanks for taking the time to make it. I use all the same "tricks" when connecting trailers. I thought I was the only one clever enough to figure them all out but youtube has shown me I'm pretty average cleverness wise. Here's one trick you might find useful: When you have safety chains that hang a bit lower than you'd prefer, before you connect it to the car, hold the hook that connects to the car and rotate/twist it once or twice. This will tighten the links and effectively shorten the chain so it doesn't hang so low. The more you twist the chain, the tighter and shorter it gets. You can fine tune the length just to where you want it. Obviously you wouldn't want to keep turning so much that you create kinks in the chain. But a twist or two usually gets it right where I want it. Enjoy!
Glad that you found that the video was helpful! I have used an odd twist here and there, but it can cause weak spots if the chain is used (a very rare occurrence, obviously). I tend to adjust the chain properly if it’s my trailer or I’m keeping it for a while! It doesn’t matter how clever a person is so long as they can tow safely! I’m happy to help and happy to learn too!
good video i managed to change mine without removing any hoses, attempting to do this with a hot engine was a pain, but yes clips also broke coz they were brittle, and installing a new one also a pain:/ end of day i managed to change it and the grawling noise on my 3.0 v6 stopped:)
Hmmm, depends on the Indy and where you’re located. It’s not much less at the Indy in Calgary than it is to take it to JLR. I’d say the cheapest you’re going to find with OEM parts is about $6,500CAD. I know some people in the IS have been able to get it done for $5,000USD.
I have the same issue in my P300. The throttle response is not fast and it takes time to accelerate. Also, I can hear A weird noise from the engine. Did u find the solution?
No, sadly not. The vehicle went in to JLR many times to be resolved but despite this and other videos and a physical demonstration, they denied that the issue existed - which was particularly difficult when I showed the shop manager the issue in person outside the shop, and it came out of the shop with ‘fault not reproducible’. I sold the defender some time afterwards, as the fault became part of a far larger list of issues JLR wouldn’t fix. I suspected the throttle sensor, but a friend also felt there may be issues with the inlet manifold/throttle body, as I was having additional issues with fuel consumption, fluttering of power, surging of power on hills, and unstable cruise control that wasn’t there when the vehicle was new. We never did get to the bottom of the issues, as JLR essentially walked away from the warrantee. You should check out my videos on my attempts to return the vehicle to them. In the end I had so many faults I had to sell it, but JLR only offered me $50k for it after 10 months - so they clearly knew there were issues they had to resolve and their buy-back offer reflects the costs involved in putting it right.
🤣🤣 good job there’s a translation! lol In my experience, they struggle the most in cold weather or when camping. But topping up the battery from time to time will also help maintain your battery life as well! Good luck!
Ahh! A lucky chap with a 2012! We don’t get that here in Canada, so I’m not actually sure! Is there an ‘S’ for sport mode on the rotary gear shift? If so, I suspect that it’ll put it in command shift when you put it in that and pull one of the flappy paddles. You may also be able to pull one of the paddles to activate the command mode too.
Lol I have a 3.6tdv8 2007 and 4.4tdv8 2012. I also used to have the 4.2 v8 supercharged. I figured it out. The same way you cancel it you put it on. Thanks.
Can you explain more what you mean about “no Laden” battery? Im afraid I don’t understand. Are you trying to say that your battery is dead and won’t charge?
Hmmm. If you’re sure it isn’t charging (and by that I mean that you’ve measured the current to the battery while the engine is running), then I suspect you have issues with the battery control circuitry. From what I recall, the new defender has a smart battery charging circuit, and when replacing the batter (or alternator) the charge cycles will need to be reset and that the vehicle will need to be ‘told’ that there is a new battery and alternator installed. I believe that you will need to plug it into Pathfinder to add that kind of information. I’m not absolutely sure how the smart battery charging circuitry works, but I suspect that there is a battery control module which may be broken or working badly. However, to diagnose that you’ll also need Pathfinder (pathfinder is the Land Rover computer - very few independents have one).
Just found your channel Steve (only now bought a 2010 L322) very interesting, informative and entertaining video diary. Obviously I’m now going to back watch your videos. Excellent stuff Steve👍
The crossover pipes were an issue on the 4.4Na and the 4.2SC, but I haven’t heard of an issue with the 5.0SC. I swap the crossover pipe on those older engines every 100,000 miles as it was a known issue. The water pumps tend to do about that, so I swap the crossover pipe when I do the pump. On the 5.0 there are some pipes under the blower that need to be done when the supercharger isolator is changed (also about 75-100k miles). They tend to crack spectacularly and there is a hose outlet that can sometimes sheer altogether.
@@shedlock2000 I finally found my L322 after searching for quite a while. Went for the best I could find. Oil changed every 6 months or 5000kms, all new rotors and brakes, tranny serviced, deployable side steps, control arms and ball joints done, very clean with no rust on the body or frame . Autobiography (360 cams, wood/leather steering wheel etc.) and only 113,000km. No timing chain issues and I just want to do my best to avoid any catastrophic failures. Also comes with a powertrain warranty that covers me to 2026. Very excited!
@@rippinmachines Outstanding! I hope you get good service from her. Sounds like just the right thing. What year is it, which engine, and what did you pay in the end?
@@shedlock2000 5L SC. I've read a lot about the coolant crossover pipes / water pump and plan to inspect with an endoscope. It is pretty mint with most wear items addressed...so I am hoping for it to be problem free for a while. It was also stored inherited garages its whole life so all the weather striping / window seals are mint.
@@rippinmachines Ahh, yes. There are some issue with the crossover pipe, but they're generally less prevalent than the two pipes that run under the supercharger. You can try to take a look with the scope, btu IDK if you'll see much nor whether or not you'd be able to see anything indicative. I would suggest you buy them to keep in stock (just in case) and replace same whenever you swap the waterpump and/or SC isolator.
I had exact problem after the battery was dead, I looked at the setting, nothing is related to that. I never thought it can be fixed in this way. Thanks for the sharing. You are amazing.
I just got a new lower gas strut and it behaves just like the one in this video. Did you get the strut replaced? Was the replacement any better? Thanks
Hi Simon! I’ve been too busy to post a follow up short - but you’ve reminded me to do so… They did send me a new strut, and it behaves largely similarly. My friend’s, however, does not do it. I was going to swap their strut for mine to see if the geometry of the bracket is relevant or if it’s a bad batch of struts. I’m under pressure with some other things at the moment, and may not get too it soon, but watch this space! lol
I've got two of these engines in Jaguars, I think it's important buyers realise they really do sound bloody awful with the bonnet up and idling, loads of injector noise, heavy combustion noise like a diesel, and all sorts of other alarming sounds. It's also quite common after a hot start to also get a weird and VERY worrying knocking sound that vanishes with any revs, seems to be some sort of resonance in the exhaust but lots of cars have it. Chain wear sounds exactly as you'd expect, a chain flapping about hitting stuff!
Yeah, that’s very true. The days of rolling, bumbling V8s have gone. My carbed V8 in the RRC sounded lovely under the bonnet, but this thing sounds like a rattley piece of junk in comparison. I’ve never heard the knocking sound in mine, but the exhaust is likely very different. I have frequently heard the peculiar knocking that comes from the fan pulley (probably), which is similarly intermittent and comes when the engine is hot (but occasionally also on start up).
I have a 2013 LR4, AJ-V8 5.0 apparently it did not make the cut for updated tensioners. I see dates in the engine bay of 6/13. Mine made it to 173k miles when I decided the noise was bad enough to fix. Guides that came out do not have the steel button, however the tensioner has a flat face which seems newer from what I have researched.
I’m sorry to hear about the bad luck. There were a variety of ‘parts-bin’ builds from about 2011 on. Given the prestige of the Range Rover at the time, I suspect the L322 and L405s received the lions mane of the new bits on their builds. Of course, that also doesn’t mean that there wasn’t a defective hardening or similar on later design parts that were installed in your engine (assuming it had the later equipment) - parts do just fail, it’s just that the later design failed significantly less than the earlier ones.
@@shedlock2000 I bought the LR4 with 50k miles, excellent condition. By 100k I knew of the potential problem and had parts at the ready. I think I've had good luck making it to 173k, but then again I'm the type that is always listening and scrutinizing my machines. I've just always been disappointed that mnfgrs have intentionally engineered products to have limited lifespan. My other truck is now at 750,000 miles and timing has never been a problem, won't be either past a million because it was engineered well (Isuzu Diesel, GMC Duramax) the rest of that truck is a different story. My LR4 will have a long life ahead.
I share your worries about poor design. This issue, however, was (relatively) quickly recognised as poor material hardening; the shift in design was done quite quickly in the engine’s history to resolve an observed engine issue and they doubled down and modified design as well. I’m actually surprised JLR responded so quickly (given their history with the original L322 front diffs and other such issues over various models, they don’t have a good reputation for resolving obvious issues quickly). I’ve done well with these engines and my earlier 2011 had over 700k on the engine (box was changed around 650k with original chains and guides (pre-update tensioners) before I moved him on to pick up the L663, so I’m not convinced that there’re many inherent design issues with the engine. I suspect that a significant cause of engine trouble is excessive JLR oil change intervals during its warranty period, over-enthusiastic or under-enthusiastic driving, and a general lack of attention to temperature management and oil selection. However, it is clear that some design flaws are innate (such as the supercharger isolator, which seems to be a consumable service part every 100k or so).
@@shedlock2000 Job is done, updated parts installed by myself so worries are put to bed for now. I completely understand that ALL manufacturers engineer a "lifetime" into their products or else they wouldn't have much of a market. Study the lightbulb and how the largest manufacturers of them got together to make them last shorter. Look at the LED... promising, however the power supplies (drivers) die early... Hmmmm. My Duramax was engineered by Isuzu, it just passed 750,000 miles this week with no timing issues so go figure.
Sweet! Glad you got it in! How was the install? Everything go according to plan? Did you replace the SC isolator at the same time? Well, like I said, my 3.5NA RRC ran 1.1 million km without ever needing any engine work and my last L332 did 700k without having any timing work done as well, so I don’t know that there’s an innate timing issue here so much as material build defect that was resolved shortly after the issue became known. I do take your point, however, about built-in failure.
Great video. Please edit your description to show the hex and torx sizes needed so we don't have to skim the video a second time trying to remember where you said the sizes. lmao. Helpful tips: -Make sure you have the right oil filter. They are different between the 2.0 and 3.0L engines. -When you loosen the drain plug it's gonna start dripping almost immediately but when you finally get the plug out it's gonna SHOOT a nice strong stream of oil. Be ready to catch. -Don't pull the plastic panel clips. You can just bend the liner back and get to the bolts. -The two Torx bolts won't thread in if the two skid plates aren't aligned perfectly. I had to leave them out til next oil change because my two plates were slightly misaligned and I wasn't about to go remove the back plate again to get to the front plate screws. Would be much easier on a lift.
Thanks for the tips! That’s very helpful info for others. I’ll take a look through the video to see if I can find the torx sizes and add them to the video description.
Thank you! My videos do tend to the longer side, but this is generally because I try not to miss out the tricky and incidental stuff that everyone else does. There’s a lot of ‘just do it’ videos out there! 😆
I’m not sure I understand the question. I only use Land Rover coolant, but I don’t mix it with any engine oil! Generally speaking, one doesn’t mix the two - it would not be a good pairing! I use Castrol’s Edge engine oil for the engine lubrication, and JLR coolant (premixed) for my coolant. In hot applications, you will want the 5W-30s for engine oil to provide more viscosity at higher temperatures. You definitely need coolant (even in hot countries), as the coolant also cleans the coolant channels, reduces corrosion, and increases heat capacity of the coolant. You should have a 50/50 mix of coolant with water - unless your coolant comes premixed (which will also be at 50%).
Thanks, Dave! Good to be back! These 20 hour days do seem to have encouraged some weight loss! 😂😂 Ariats! They’re actually really comfortable and excellent for driving. I wear them because they’re easy to slip on and off when I get in and out of the truck, and the leather helps protect the shin from the inevitable cow-encounters!
hmmm, I’ve no clue @DavHill77! I just bought them from the store because they’re tall shank and have a non-slip sole for winter! They say style “10014053” inside!
You’ve gone full on Cowboy Steven! Wise words about jacking. Have you heard the one about how you should leave the tailgate open to stop the car changing the suspension? Another urban myth!
😂😂 well, kinda! Turns out there are good reasons for such attire here! When I first landed here, I also worked out at a cattle ranch, so most of the gear is actually 20 years old, nearly! No! I’ve not heard that one! It doesn’t surprise me, though!
Thanks for the kind words, Sam! 😂😂 You noticed the weight loss! You’re right that most people put it on! I’ve lost about 50lbs I think, though it’s hard to tell exactly. I guess 20 hour days’ll do that to a fella! lol!
Glad to see you back here talking about what you love. In the middle of the job hunt currently and feel your frustration. Cheers to your next successes.
They do! The design of wheels is quite under-rated, I think. These SC rims are my second favourite after the Winchester rims (which are hard to find here - my friend’s rangy has them).
I don’t use the jacking points, I jack up on the front subframe and rear wishbones, in the Uk the sills can suffer from corrosion and the jacking point area can become weak and damage the sills.
I have used the wishbones in the past too, but their design and orientation can cause the vehicle to slip on them from time to time, so I generally avoid it where I can (it’s also trickier to use the jack handle). However, it’s another potential spot to jack from which requires less reach on the jack, for sure. I didn’t know that the sills become so weak that the jacking points become weak over there! That seems quite drastic! I’ve never had that on any rangy I’ve had - even those I had in the uk!
@@shedlock2000 it’s mainly the rear sills that become weak because of the rust area that develops on the rear wheel arches, it’s actually quite common for the jacking point to go right through the sill when you hack it up if you didn’t know your rust was that bad! Which is the reason I stay away from the sill jacking points! I use the little piece of wood trick like you do so jack doesn’t slip, one good side of jacking up under the rear wishbone is after one pump of the jack the rear air shock actually lifts itself up into the wheel arch so you don’t have to jack any more! Giving enough room to remove the wheel! Strange hack but always works! You really need a large double pump jack when lifting these range rovers so only takes seconds to lift these heavy cars!
Eh up Firthy. Aye life can be a bastard at times. Just been made redundant myself after 27 years so i feel for you mate. Its a thought having to send out applications after all these years, ill need to remember how its done lol. Good to see you still kicking and i bet the hauling was a nice blast from the past even though pretty tiring.
Holy! Laid off after nearly 30 years!? I bet that came as a hell of a blow and I’m sorry to hear of the challenge. Job hunting is never fun - especially at our stage of life where we’ve become accustomed to certain kinds of positions. They say a change is as good as a break - and though I’m not sure I completely agree, I’m certainly enjoying a lot about the job. Hopefully the gig at the uni will line up. Fingers crossed for the pair of us!
@shedlock2000 yea it's never a nice "email" I'll not stick, job offers have been coming in already without having sent anything out yet. I'll take stock for a wee bit before I commit to anything. Hopefully that academic position comes for you soon, you've worked hard for it mate.
Good question. I did change the coupler and the noise ceased. The coupler itself isn’t expensive, but it does need a fairly significant strip down to change. The noise differs from the chains in that it’s more of a clunk than it is a rattle.
I ordered the part directly from JLR, and they got the correct unit from the VIN, so I can’t actually tell you if it’s a 47 or 49mm one! I’ll measure it later today. There are various places for parts, but in Canada, the shipping and import duties for some parts make the JLR parts sometimes more cost effective (and less hassle) to obtain. I do usually do some hunting around though. I replaced it sometime ago, but that I got it from JLR tells me it was as cheap there as anywhere. I only ever by OEM parts.
I am not sure right now, as it’s several years since I did it. I do remember seeing both figures, but I’m not certain why it was I’ve said 215ml (unless I found out that it was)! I’d recommend giving your local stealer a call to double check with them.
