@@Corn-ped You accomplished both! I know where to connect the timing light leads on a car. Would I simply connect the timing light to an external power source and then clip the inducer to the spark plug wire?
@@troyduncan1969 Just like a car. Connect the timing light to an external power source like a car battery or any 12v battery and then clip the inducer to the spark plug wire.
Good and easy video! Currently rebuilding my E50, keeping the stock look and 49cc cylinder, but upgrading the original parts, to make it a 'sleeper' build. Boring up the 15mm carb, opening the airfilter box, new 49cc cylinder with 6 flushing channels, planed high compression top etc. Forgot the meassurements for the ignition, because it's 5 years since i opened the engine. Although you mention that the flywheels circumference is 360mm, which is most of the time correct. Puch originally came with Bosch flywheels that was 360mm in circumference. But in later production they changed from Bosch to another company, that had another circumference. It's always a good idea to wrap a string around the flywheel and meassure the length to be certain or meassure diameter and times that with pi(3,1415).
Are the points fully open at your timing or just beginning to open? An e50 I am working on seems like it’s over 20 degrees by timing light but the points actually start to move open at 17
it fires the second the points open the dweell time is how long they stay open what happens is this as the points open a ground is lifted from primary coil and condenser leads the voltage flows thru primary coil to the condenser thru it to ground (the little can is gd as this voltage flows in the primary it greates a magnitic effect in the coil and due to turns ratio in the secondary coil a very high voltage is flowing in the coil to the plug wire and plug as a spark all this happens very fast ( this is called a series resonant circuit) remember all the points do is lift the gd off ..if every thing is working right there is no voltage in the points but if cond is wrong type or defective a voltage will jump the gapof the points to gnd pitting the points if this happen replace the condenser and clean the points
Awesome video! I do have one questions. How do i prevent my coils from hitting the flywheel? Whenever i turn my flywheel by hand i can feel and hear the scraping.....
ohh you need to set the air gap. There is detailed instructions in the manual with gap spec. But the way I do it is pretty easy. Take off the flywheel and put 2 layers of masking tape around the coils. Loosen the 2 screws holding each coil down. put the flywheel back on and the tape should push the coils in for enough clearance. Then with the flywheel still on rotate it around and tighten the coil screws. Then take off the flywheel and remove the tape. Then you should be able to put the flywheel back on with clearance.
are you available for support. Quick phone call. I have a Tomos A3 and can not set the timing. The guy who had it replaced the stator from points to non points. It looks like a CDI. Ive tried everything. Cant find the spark marks on the stator or the cover.
the clutch cover is totally different. The ZA is wide and kind of an oval and sticks out a bunch. the E50 does not stick out as far and the cover is much smaller and circular.
Yes. If you advance the timing it can have better low end. But it can cause hotter to end and detonation. Check with a timing light and see if it's set correctly first. And check your point gap.
What kind of timing light would you recommend? I've been looking at one that runs on 2 D batteries (self powered) because the whole hooking it up to the car thing seems like a pain in the ass, but would love to know your thoughts....
@@Corn-ped thank you, I appreciate this. I’ve recently decided to try and fix up my moped but don’t know what I’m doing. I found one of your videos on Reddit and it’s a good reference for when I’m fixing it.
@@Corn-ped a 1978 garelli gran sport. I got it a few years ago and it’s been sitting in my garage since, I decided to try and fix it a few days ago but so far all I’ve managed to do was take it apart and put it back together😂
Good video! I've also tried to make a video on this on my RD50 build (still has to come out) but filming it was a real hassle. Seems like you've got your camera gear set up pretty good! What are you using?
@@VintageGarageYT I went with the Canon RP because I already had Canon lens and it has AUTO FOCUS and TRACKING. I do most of my filming alone so I needed autofocus and tracking.
I’ve got a Murray, I believe e50 platform as well, it has the same Bosch points ignition. Do you these bikes have a rpm limited by spark or are just limited by cylinder flow efficiency? Trying to increase the top speed a bit.
Hi Thanks for your video.. I couldnt understand one thing, While you where rotating the ignition.. in the center of marks which u did, it should be 1.5 mm before the mark in the center or ? Thanks
you rotate your flywheel with a drill with engine in off position? what is your power source for your timing light? this would be a bit easier than starting my car, lifting the hood and hooking up my snap on to my battery and taking my moped outside and starting it at nite
Oh haha yeah, I use a Milwaukee M12 battery. I have wanted to buy a battery powered timing light but I have a spare 12v battery. Using the car is a total pain.
you can use a batter y charger for batt scorce the spark causes the flash one lead you hook to the plug wire you turn dist slowly to adj timming then lock it down
@@frankdavidson9675Are you saying you don't actually have to spend it like he did with a drill? But instead just turn it by hand and it'll show a flash on the timing tape? 🤔
Is the flywheel stock? Is the stator plate stock ? The slots are there so you can adjust the points? It sounds like you might have a miss match set? I wish you could posts photos in the comments.
Yeah, so I'm probably just being stupid... But I followed this tut and ended up firing at 0° (TDC) when stator is fully advanced. How am I being a dummy here?
@@Corn-ped just to be sure I got this right, I set the point gap at TDC to .4mm. Then, I find 18° BTDC, mark it on the flywheel, start and check timing with light. I ended up at 0° TDC, so I advanced the stator all the way (dremeled out to get more adjustment room even). Somehow I'm still firing at 0° and it did me a big confuse.