7:39 Please don't pry open aluminium like that. Use the bolts to your favor instead, make sure they are seated 2-3 turns and give them a whack with a rubber hammer instead. Then you can separate them without damaging the sealing flat surfaces.
Great work! The Z and the MGA are certainly unique beasts, and their journeys to electrification are equally unique. Great seeing you giving them both the attention they and their owners deserve!
These units and all ev inverters/chargers are dangerous for people to mess around with and for people to get hurt. There is a 400v cap that should be discharged or checked for discharge with a dvom and he should be wearing class 0 gloves for this operation. Come on man. You are educating people, do it the right way. My buddy got bit by one of these because he was hot and sweaty working on it. Please EVeryone BE CAREFUL!
No power if it's not plugged into a battery. I suppose checking for voltage before you start can't hurt but class 0 gloves would be a bit overkill for a inverter board swap lol
@@bubferner2146 lol, as if caps would be discharging themselves instantly….. there is more than likely still HV somewhere, because of those capacitors.
I wonder if a rotor oil cooling upgrade, i.e. with QC Charge manifold, would be better if the power is being increased. That rotor is gonna cook. I have a Rav4 EV with a rotor cooling delete (same motor but 150HP) and it does fine... some folks have done the same and attempted to measure the rotor temp while driving conservatively and they measured almost 200F. The copper rotor may handle it but the efficiency decrease as heat soak takes hold, and the heat is effectively only dissipated through the bearings and by radiation & convention to the stator...
I watch Alex over at Legit Street Cars. When he breaks down something this complex gearing and such, he uses a grease pen to make to two things that need to meet a certain way or mark what should be facing in which direction. I don't know if this will help you keep organized or give a visual indicator to lessen your challenges. Thanks for the show. It is very educational ... I will probably never build or repair an EV but it's still a learning experience.
If you want to seriously do this work, you REALLY need to get a decent work bench. Something you can mount that vise to and is substantial enough to pound on.
@@ElectricSuperCar Harbour Freight sells a steel welding bench that some other RU-vidrs seem to really like. Maybe you could get them to sponsor one to you... @harborfreight
A heads up with the tough nuts to break, if red loctite was used, it's normal to heat up the nuts and bolts first, this loosens the thread locker enough to break them free.
So amazing to me that you did that in 26 mins! Also, that poor hammer. Thanks for keeping us up to date on the builds and teaching about the mods. Cool stuff!
8:40 you shouldn't be using your torque wrench as a breaker bar. A breaker bar is just a solid steel shaft with a square anvil on the end for sockets. They are much cheaper than a torque wrench and are absolutely worth it. You could even add a pipe like a jack handle to the end of a breaker bar.
Enjoying your builds. I could be wrong - as it has been known to happen. I thought I saw you use a torque wrench to break some bolts loose. Recommendation - Best not to use a torque wrench to break bolts loose. Only to tighten them... Keep up the good work.
A little note on motor cooling! The losses in the inverter and stator are proportional to the torque being generated (actually they are proportional to the square of the phase current if we are being pedantic), whereas the rotor losses are dominated by it's rotational speed. Blocking or reducing the coolant flow to the rotor is not a problem if you don't sit at sustained high speed (high motor rpm) and you may find that it allows more torque at lower speeds to be maintained as a higher flow rate = more heat removal. As it's pretty difficult to actually measure in real time the temperature of the rotor (we use non contact IR or laser thermometry when developing these sorts of motors as well as "post event " temp tabs and precision metalurgy to determine the peak temp of the rotor, the std inverter will have a thermodynamics model for the eMachine, and this will calculate the rotor temp based on the models parameters, and limit performance to maintain the temperatures within acceptable limits
@ElectricSuperCar I got that 😅 sorry, I wasn't precise - I mean is it for better durability or more performance or why would you swap them? I have no clue, but still enjoy your channel!
@@lthg18My guess is maybe for compatibility. Because it's a Tesla motor, the board will only work with Tesla parts, (maybe locked?). And so the aftermarket board maybe allows someone to bypass Tesla's own board to use the motor. Just a guess! 😅
@@w1za4d12 This, it allows you to control the motor, although then you're stuck to that aftermarket vendor. Unless you want to get an open source board (Damien Maguire).
I will probably never remove the motor out of my Tesla, but I am watching this video anyway!! I'm having such fun! By the way, Davinci has a call out that tracks. I like the call outs you are using though, and I know how much time it takes to put them in.
It looked like the AEM board didn't have a proper conformal coating on it. The original tesla board had liberal coating to deferr moisture. Maybe spray the new board with some coating?
Is that a specific model of quaife LSD? I wonder if that comes OEM in some cars, and you can salvage one from a junkyard differential for much much cheaper than its normal $2000 asking price
ooof a lil heavy on the RTV.. id be afraid of the "smoosh out" smooshing into the motor insides. If its pushing out that far on the outside, You know it is on the inside too. Look into the Subaru BRZ Toyota GT86 Oil starvation issues caused by caked on RTV.
What's wrong with stock inverter controller board? If there are any improvements to be made, then I would have thought it would be in firmware, so like you would re-flash this board with 3-rd party firmware.
@@ElectricSuperCar What? I have the same question many have asked: Why the new controller board? Can you spoon feed please none of your replies so far make much sense to this old gear head with a Model S P dual motor.
You should get a 1/2" impact like a Dewalt DCF900B it's much better than the smaller impact drivers for any larger nuts. I use my smaller impact on 12mm and smaller nuts. Then my large 1/2" impact for larger nuts and bolts.
Why are you loosening with the torque wrench? Use a breaker bar or an actual impact wrench...not an impact driver. Your impact doesn't suck, it's a 1/4" hex drive meant for drywall screws. What you really need is a cordless ratchet.
Excellent video! I am getting my RDU replaced by Tesla. It's out of warranty. It's not related to the video, I know, but watching this video makes me want to think about my old 2015 TMS70. I asked if I could keep the old drive unit. I want to see if I can open it up. 😅
@@blueracer66 you too. Have a nice day. I don't follow Elon that closely anymore but I remember when he sent a message to all his employees to avoid acronyms as much as possible. Since then I've begun to observe how acronyms have some big downsides.
what was the new inverter board for? i hope you used red loctite when you bolted the crownwheel back onto the new diff centre, also buy yourself a decent breaker bar man..
The difference between heat and electricity. Electricity will always win with super high efficiency. V8s/engines are overrated, Tesla or any EV motors deserves much attention too.
Amazing content! Is there any way to actually change the gear ratio for the car to gain more top speed? About 300-320kph? I've seen there's a short ratio made for mid drive for AWD and SUVs for this unit, is there any one that only changes the ratio to get a better top speed? If not, would that lower ratio set help it go faster (I know acceleration takes a hit but a top speed that can do some numbers on german autobahn would be nice...)
Great video. Im not an EV person, but enjoy your channel. When you take apart two halves like that, there are a couple of ways of doing it that are safer. 1. Use a hard rubber/plastic hammer and tap on the half you want to separate. This works often, and there is no risk of damage to the sesling surface. 2. Put some of the bolts back in and leave them a little loose, then strike them with a hammer to separate the two halves. Again love the channel
This reminded me of the late 90s&early 2000s car scene tuning, where we had to pull the actual motherboard and send it out for a flash. Pre the hand held obd2 tuning super easy re flashes for tuning. 👍🏻😀 Last I was into the tuning scene in 2018 my friend who runs a fl tuning shop with his dad. We just sat in our cars with the programmers and software literally adjusting them each run. We had various st and track tunes which got much better cruising mpg for the hwy otw out to the track to track&rac3 tunes specific for various ethanol percentages, locked out turbo boost in certain rpm&gear ranges, ad in timing&fuel per gear etc. Even on st cars it made a big difference! But now it's even more advanced than that I'm sure! Tesla should consider offering in car power customization options for $$$ on their perfomance model's. You can't tell me the plaid&new 24 m3p can't be further optimized for track specific purposes. And this would be how you get us gearheads who might be ev reluctant into them! 😎👍🏻
Volvo does this with the xc40 T5R. You can rent a more aggressive tune for a few weeks or buy it outright. It’s not cheap and most people prefer longevity over better mid range acceleration
There have been several Model 3 Performance “Ludicrous” that have reported oil leaking from the rear drive shaft. There are several videos on RU-vid & on X. Yikes 😱
It occurred to me while watching that there are probably a bunch of Tesla folks who would pay for your upgrades here and you could probably turn over a ton of customers quickly with as fast as you accomplished the changes. What was the new board for- I missed what it actually does?
hey sir why did you change the inverter secondly why have you also change the reverse pump but what about teslas they also drive in reverse with the same motor
