Aluminum frames will always have more felt recoil than polymer as you'll feel the shock reverberate through the frame. Polymer absorbs all the recoil as it flexes slightly as the gun is fired. If you really want a metal frame, go for a "steel" but then you sacrifice weight. Just stick with polymer and save your money for ammo or a red dot.
Appreciate the comment. You should subscribe I like your insights. Buuuuut! All that flexing you’re talking about with polymer makes for inaccurate follow up shots. And like you said steel is heavy. It’s pretty much a burden to carry. So aluminum is actually the way to go for a carry gun. Which is what the xmacro was made for.
You need to swap to one of the other 1913 rails that came with the light and it will position the light into the next slot so it fits closer to the trigger guard.
For those looking for a cheaper route, get the Wilson combat module w/ the tungsten rod inserts. It works amazingly, is far less expensive, and has several colors to pick from and they all still fit my holsters as well. These are certainly aesthetically pleasing, but spending what's essentially the cost of another P365 for one is crazy. To each their own, of course, it's YOUR money and YOUR firearm. But there are cheaper options for those wanting to upgrade theirs.
I didn’t seek different options when I did this. I liked the grip so I bought it. It was half the price of the Xmacro. It’s also aluminum. You’re comparing the price of polymer to aluminum. You know that right? And from my light research they don’t come with the guide rod either. Like you said to each his own. There’s no way I’d take polymer over aluminum as far as esthetics goes though.
Shot a few p320's and p365's that have metallic grip modules, Aluminum/steel, compared to my Wilson combat plastic grip frames. HATED the metallic frames. More recoil felt compared to plastic even though there's more weight. Definitely was disappointed since I had planned on getting a commander size mischief machining p365 grip module. I noticed more fatigue in my hands after 500 rounds. The added weight was insignificant except on the steel frame. That was another negative. What ended my desire was how easy it was to scratch/damage the aluminum grip module. Blunted all the Hotspot on the grip within the 2500 round total range day. Rather destroy a plastic $65 grip module and replace as needed vs $300-$450 alloy grip frame. Just my personal experience.
Too bad we don’t find all of that out until we get the grip😂. I don’t feel a change in recoil. It’s my edc. I don’t think I’ve put 2500 rounds though if yet though. Only like 1500. I can’t shoot 2500 rounds in one day out of one gun. I’d get bored. You forgot to mention how the metal frame is cold against your body this time of year also. I don’t care about the scratches on the paint. I want to change the color anyway. All in all I’m still happy with it. I just wished it would’ve cost half of what I paid for it.
@RumbleOnTheTube temperature... I almost forgot to mention the metal frames get HOT and hold heat. Buddy burnt his fingertips since he cut the tips off his gloves. Plastic grips have never gotten hot on me.
I have it on there. I thought I said it in the video. This grip is shaped differently so it doesn’t fit it the same as the factory grip. Thanks for the heads up though 👍🏾
My tlr 7x which is the same as the tlr 7a fits perfectly with the right 1913 adapter which comes with the light. If you’d doesn’t you have the wrong adapter. I also have another tlr 7 sub on another Icarus frame with the right adapter and it fits the way it should.
