@@UmunhumCycleworksQuality is amazing. Never had any issues with their bolts. I have them on 3 bikes. They offer lifetime warranty but I don’t think I’ll ever need to tap into that.
Are you sure it works properly? Pulley are different across almost all sram derailleurs, and wrong pulley can cause a bad chain line which will be fine at first but could wear out quickly
@@wanderer2246 yes it works great actually. In the 6 months I’ve had it everything still works exactly as it should. Everything is interchangeable in sram. They all work together.
Grease!! I suspect if we greased/re greased the NX mount regularly it would perform and last longer however the sturdier bracket would help in the long term also. I think for the price it’s worth doing at next service. 👍👍
I've recently bought a new Deore XT for ~40$, here a small part costs 30$ - not sure, I see SRAM is much more expensive. I'd politely skip commenting not cleaning the deralieur ;)
The point is that it removes play that develops when the wavy washer wears out. I suppose its a durability upgrade but it won't do anything to improve shifting on a derailleur without that play. The XX1 kit is often out of stock so a new washer would achieve the same thing for another several years, GX b-bolt kits can be had for under 10 bones, even skateboard bearing seals work
You're right, this is definitely more of a durability upgrade. However, I do think the shifting is a little bit crisper, although I don't know how I would quantifiably prove that.
@@UmunhumCycleworks You would have to have access to two equally worn derailleurs of the same type, and then replace the b-bolt with the stock b-bolt on one of them and the X01-bolt kit on the other. Then someone else than yourself will have to mount them on your bike (blind test). After trying both you'll be able to tell if there's a difference. Or even better, let your assistant switch back and forth between them until you have statistically significant results 🙂
although I somewhat I agree with you overall, I disagree. This is because the original bolt is going to have a lot of friction than the bearing regardless of age and wear. I'm a millwright and during my time at school we study bearings, its our bread & butter. Bushings are a type of bearing, shanks of bolts, no matter how much grease you put on it is not a bearing. You will have less resistance with this PTFE bushing than the original bolt guaranteed. How much does that translate into shifting idk. I just installed a brand new GX derailleur today so if I install this and notice a difference I'll report back.
@@skiboot1 I'd be interested to know if it makes an improvement with an otherwise new mech. I now use a washer on the outside in order to lock it in place (no movement > smooth movement)
@@godstrashman I would too, but unfortunately I don't think spending $30 and then another $20 to get free shipping on the part is worth it or has enough value for me. Sorry! Especially as the brand new mech is unbelievably good compared to what I was on before
Haha you found me and some other guys trick! When I made a video on this, I was the second video to do this and people were amazed by this upgrade, it's such a good one for anyone looking to get a little more performance out of there GX. Something I wanted to point out is if you want it to feel like X01, you will need an X01 shifter. The rest of what you are not feeling is in the shifter is what I heard. I have not tried it but that is what I heard from others. Good video man 🤙
Oh dude - I watch your videos all the time! I ride out in UC pretty often and I think I've seen you ride out there - you absolutely rip, man! Definitely a good tip, and yeah, the shifter is the best upgrade for sure. I'm gonna be swapping this bike over to a full XX1 groupset soon, but I'm gonna move the GX RD onto my bikepacking bike and I'll grab an XO1 shifter to get it shifting real nice!
Being a guy that has serviced and bend a lot of SX, NX, GX, X01, & XX1. Sure, a stabler B-pivot mount may make a bit of difference. BUT, the biggest difference, by far, between them is the overall strength and stiffness of the derailleurs regardless of the bit of difference that B-pivot bolt may make. And the difference in retail price between NX and GX is barely $20! AND, SX sucks in general, not worth investing $30 more into an already crappy derailleur that should probably be replaced in its entirety.
Beware, the replacement kit did not "fit" my SX. I was barely able to install it but the bushing is a little wider than the original bolt and when I tighten it up to 6 Nm the mech was't able to rotate any more. Had a lot of trouble getting the "upgrade" bolt out and unfortunately had to go back to the original.
Important question here, please. Does the new puleys have side to side play when tightened properly? Mine gx has two seasons, i got play in main pivot and puleys. I am riding oval chainring, so it may be more used. Thank you
Just installed New xx1 bolt today. What I noticed is that there is some play still left as there is like 1mm gap between and it introduces little movement sideways. Hard to explain but hope you understand and can confirm if it’s the case for you.
I have this same exact issue on my 50t GX derailleur. I compared the two bolts side-by-side and the overall dimensions seem the same yet I have that 1mm lateral play along the mounting bolt that you're talking about. I reinstalled the original GX bolt in frustration and am equally frustrated trying to put that split ring back in place.
@@npdcpa it’s so weird that nobody notices that! I’ve been running new bolt but can’t get it switch gears perfectly, yes I can feel difference when changing gear pedalling, but overall it’s more inconsistent.
@@Timotelli Do you have a 50t or 52t (520%) derailleur? I wonder if that is the difference... I switched my 50t back to the OEM bolt which to be honest wasn't a problem until I watched one of these videos. My OCD got the best of me and I wasted money on this stupid "update".
@@Timotelli I didn't bother. That 1mm gap just had trouble written all over it. I did try all sorts of combinations of old and new bolt, o-rings, washers, etc and I couldn't eliminate that millimeter.
@UmunhumCycleworks sram gx ,I was advised to do it when I purchased it and later on I done my sons nx .I found on the nx it made more difference through the gears
So I have NX eagle and have always disliked the play in the derailleur. It just slaps around. It shifts fine despite the noise. This is my first Sram MTB group-set. I have always had Shimano. Sram road/gravel is just amazing. No issues. I was able to source a GX derailleur cheap although, I have no idea how worn out it is. 1) would this upgrade reduce the chain slap/movement on NX? 2) would it be just better to go with this GX. I am thinking so.
I appreciate the guide, but there are a few things that are done wrong in here that would greatly reduce the effectiveness of this upgrade. First, CLEAN EVERYTHING spotless. Youre installing a sealed bush. Any dust in there will destroy the new bush pretty quickly. Second, it would be a good idea to use some loctite bearing retainer on the bush that sits inside the old housing. It'll remove any play between the new bush and old warn housing, and greatly increase how well this mod works. Third, LUBE! Everything that moves against something else needs a light coat of grease. I cant believe this guide misses such a simple step.
No offence, but the title is misleading, and the claims about improvement in SX / NX (2:52) are simply not true. This mounting bolt will not improve SX or NX with their composite plastic parts (that will still bend no matter if mounted with higher quality bolt).
Maybe it is just anecdotal, but many people who have done this upgrade on SX or NX have said they noticed an improvement in shifting, but that could definitely just be confirmation bias. Either way, thanks for commenting!
@@SeaCowsBeatLobsters My point is that the flex of the parts in SX / NX is so big (compared to the play on the bolt itself) that you will not notice the benefits of this mod. IMO, for SX and NX the much better solution to increase shifting precision (in terms of "bang for a buck") is replacing the guide jockey wheel with one from a higher SRAM groupset (or using some 3rd party, i.e. SunRace) that uses bearing instead of a metal bushing. That's what I did for my SX RD, it's working much better now, still far from perfect, tho.
There isn't any movement once set. It's not a point that pivots during out on the trail. Funny how folks believe they can feel a difference in something that hasn't changed 😂
