Consider adding some Catalyst Hardener(I have used the one from Tractor Supply- Majik) which will allow that Rustoleum to harden and leave a better shine and finish. Rustoleum tends to stay soft without it. Can also use the Majik implement paint from Tractor, similar to Rustoleum and different colors available.
Thank you so much for posting these awesome videos. I have contemplated doing this with my 20 year old Itasca. I probably won't attempt this until next year so I'm spending 2024 reading and learning from awesome channels like yours. Now that it's been almost a year, how is the paint job holding up? Anything you'd do differently? Sorry if this was already covered in a more recent video. I am just scratching the surface on your channel lol
The paint looks as good as it did when I first painted it. I think the process I used worked really well. I wouldn’t change how I did it unless I had a spray booth and tools to spray. Thanks for watching and best of luck when you decide to take on your project.
Awesome! Thanks for watching. We didn't put anything in about fixing Alfa pox because it's only an alfa thing. But I Did have to fix a few. Send us a FB message if you need info on that.
Penetrol Oil-Based Paint Additive claims to "eliminate brush and roller marks" - and that claim is true. I got a 1 gallon can of the product that is over 10 years old and used it one day and was utterly shocked by the results - used a brush and except for a few spots it looked like a spray finish. Since you are doing 5 coats I would recommend starting with an oil primer for the first two coats then 3 with the paint and at least 24 hr dry time between coats and 7 days to cure and easily 30+ days to fully harden. Oil-Based Paint in a large application like this without the need to mask and deal with overspray is incredibly inexpensive compared with any other paint and the wet shine is amazing. Would be awesome to shoot the entire vehicle indoors with clear polyurethane. Also, don't need decals (but could add later) either way still looks like and 'RV'.
I was wanting to do ours, it's a 1990 model, what a job, people have stayed in it and trash it to an unbelievable state but I wanted to help the outside look better and was searching on how to do it ourselves.
I have now subscribed to your channel because of this video and series. The clear coat on my 2008 Southwind is peeling off and looks horrible. Its full body paint. I guess I will sand off clear coat and paint to where it turns to white fiberglass? Did you sand between coats? Thanks for this awesome series.
I am impressed that the additive Flood allowed you not to have to Tip the paint. I have some experience with the roll and tip process. Looks like the flood made it a lot simpler. I have never used the preloaded rollers, is there a big difference in the application? Your job looks great.
I watched a video of a guy painting a older Corvette and he used Flood Penetrol. I tried the dry roller and it didn’t lay the paint out as smooth as the pre-wet rollers. They made the difference. I was going to use Total Boat topside paint initially and then a friend used the Rustoleum and it came out pretty good. It’s also easy to get. Home Depot or Lowes and half the price of polyurethane. Thanks for watching!
Well now you have a blueprint on how to do it. Finish sanding and buffing are next. Thanks for watching and best of luck if you decide to paint your RV.
I was set to spray my 38 foot Diplomat. Now I will follow your process instead. Much better, easier to adjust with the weather and to do a higher quality job.
Glad it helped! Once I got my rolling technique down it was smooth sailing. I have a friend who applied 2coats of the Rustoleum paint. He didn’t thin it and he was not happy with the results. The trick is the thinning and rolling. I did the 5 coats so I could finish sand any imperfections out. It’s a lot work but once I got my process down I was really happy with it. Good luck with your project and thanks for watching!
I tested a Urethane enamel paint and it was not as glossy and didn’t sand as well as the oil based paint. I wanted to be able to sand and buff. From everything I read the oil is more durable. I hate working with oil paints, but it just seemed to be the best choice. Thanks for watching!
No primer was needed. I have numerous friends who had painted their motorhomes and didn’t need to prime. Their paint jobs have held up really well. Thanks for watching!
I used special sanding disks that I ordered off of Amazon. That way I could dry sand with a orbital sander. Sandi g didn’t take that long. I could finish sand a large section in about 3 hours. After I finished sanding I buffed it out with Meguiars Ultimate Compound.
Thanks, it is a lot of work. The only other option is take it somewhere and have it done. That would have been around $20k. Finish sanding and buffing is next. Thanks for watching!
Hey Garon, I didn’t realize it was you. You know how much work it is. You painted your bus. Hope all is well and tell Tami we said hi. Safe travels my friend!
@@RoamingWithRosie I just painted mine and needless to say, I think it looks good, not great. Thank you for the "flood" hack. It helped but still not as beautiful as a car paint job.
