@FaKz92 no, had adjusted the dead zone enough that it didn't affect much, and once I got the dock I always just used the Gulikit controller I have. It just annoyed me that the left stick would stop a good bit outside of center 6 or 7 times out of ten.
Just did this myself thanks to you! My left stick had been causing me a bit of issues since I got it from a friend last year. Kept like grinding and I'd clean it or try wiggling it around. Just said screw it and got these. You made this a 20 minute process with no stress. Thank you!
Well I started to get the stick drift. So bought these and the install went flawlessly. Thank you for the video and making this a really easy fix. Also I didn't know about the calibration in Konsole. That made it even more perfect.
After 14 months of regular use I still have my deadzone set to 4000 without drift and I could probably go lower. I have had to use Konsole to calibrate the left stick before though and it has slightly more wiggle room in the deadzones than the right one which is the same as when I first got it. It's good to know there is an easy replacement and having a Halls effect controller for my main PC has left me tempted to grab the GuliKit sticks, minimal deadzones feel much more responsive.
Thanks for the video, I read in Reddit several people complain about the square area of the sticks and having issues with calibration, but looking at your video I couldn’t see any issue when you were moving the sticks around in the calibration menu. The other thing is that a lot of reviews I’ve seen do not mention the calibration button just the software calibration, but as far as I know for optimal results you should do both, so thank you for mentioning that part. I’m still going to wait until one of my sticks stops working properly to get a pair, but I’m convinced these will work great now.
Good video. Gave it a thumbs-up. A potential side-effect of more people buying this hall effect joysticks is Valve might consider partnering with GuliKit in the future with the next iteration of the Steam Deck(aka. Steam Deck 2) for the joystick components.
Thank you I really appreciate it! I hope they do because honestly hall sticks should just be standard now, I understand in some handhelds it can be hard because of interference but in most cases it should just be standard.
I thought they literally said steamdeck isn't gonna be like console, releasing something new every few years but instead a long term investment using internal upgrades and software updates.... wdym steamdeck 2
@@6double6. In the future. I'm just stating they might consider a partnership. Just hoping they do. BTW, Steam Deck IS a PC, but with fixed specs. Not sure how hard it is to understand.
Very well made video! Appreciate it. One thing to mention would be nice, since ppl might be scared leaving their „back“ open and press on a circuit board button. They can just use the second method which in my opinion is superior
Sorry for the late reply! Yes the second method in my opinion is better, just wanted to caver everything. Thank you for watching and I hope you enjoyed it.
@@ne0459 you need to check whether your Steam Deck has type A or type B sticks under Settings > System > Steam Deck Controller ID. If the ID starts with "MEDA" then they're Type A, MHDA is Type B. Once you know that, set the switch accordingly.
Thanks for the video I was installing the sticks when I saw the A and B switch and was confused by it so I went to find a video installing it but most were installing the the older model the the newer one. Your video helped me a ton to not make a screw up.
One thing I want to add - it is useful to reduce dead zone after replacement. It makes stick more sensible (since we have more room for movement) and it still doesn’t drift. Personally I reduced it to minimal value, feels more precise than original
I don’t have a steam deck… yet. But I have a switch and switched out my joysticks for the Hall effect ones. I watched to see how to install anyway and have to say that this looks a little bit easier to disassemble and install than the switch.
I just completed replacing the stick using your guide here. Calibration method 1 did nothing but #2 solved it. The command though is 'thumbstick underscore cal' and not hyphen. Did the upgrade because the left stick had drift in the downwards direction. Characters would walk towards the screen and menus would go down. No amount of calibration would resolve it enough. *thumbs up*
Gulikit KingKong Pro2 controller has been my go-to for a couple years now. I was iffy about attempting soldering with the original replacement Deck sticks so I'm incredibly happy to see these and under $25 on Amazon right now. I'm planning an SSD upgrade anyway so why not replace the sticks at the same time
@abstractedbluestar9245 it was really simple. The hardest part was calibrating the sticks. I can't use console commands to recalibrate them since I'm running WinDeckOS instead of SteamOS, so I was stuck with fiddling with the tiny button on the back side of the stick units. The right stick was perfect out of the box, left took some time to get it centered. I used an external M.2 dock to initialize the SSD and then clone the OS drive before installing it so I wouldn't have to re-load WinDeckOS and go through the process to sign back in to everything
@micahevans969 I even reinstalled SteamOS so I could use the konsole command to recalibrate the stick since the button wasn't getting it as solid as I liked.
Thank you, great guide on a really easy replacement although some PCB imperfections may make you damage your plastic screw stand off a bit but it's no biggie if it's just one standoff on a single component, I experienced the same when re-aligning the left trigger because it would grind against the case but it's all good now, that plastic shell is really strong having removed it more than a few times now.
Quick update after 3 months! - Despite initial concerns about the PCB imperfections, the design choice by Valve to utilize self-tapping screws, which effectively create their own threads as they are driven into the material, ensures a robust and secure assembly. Definitely a sick upgrade. Thanks again.
Also just so you know, maybe you could make another video, the new decks are different. They have different ID numbers and also use a star or T head screw. Which I just learned when I tried to take mine out lol@retrohandhelds
I have heard that these have a slight problem with how they output their X and Y axis: The Steamdeck joysticks, when moved diagonally, output a 75% signal on both X and Y, which the Steamdeck then interprets as 100% for X and Y. The Gulikit joysticks directly output 100% on X and Y when doing the same, which causes them to not be linear. Can anyone confirm this issue?
I read that you calibrate the sticks in the Console and don't need to do so manually with the buttons. Otherwise, this looks very simple and is something I am comfortable doing as well.
I installed this new kit recently along side my new extremerate shell. I had a problem with one of the sticks. It could be due to the shell but I'm not sure. The sensor wire would make a clicking noise when you rotate the stick as if it was getting caught on something. I had to grind away the epoxy with a Dremel and resoldered the wire to round the other way. Now it is perfect; no more clicking! Maybe something to note if you are doing this with a custom shell.
Sorry for the late reply, thank you for sharing that! I would suggest that anybody with that issue just returns them, but it sounds like you're more than capable of fixing something like that.
No stick drift yet with mine. But they arent as reaponsive as i thought they would be. So my deck just lives on a dock with mouse controller and keyboard. I figured they would be better than the ps5 ones. So because of this i dont use my deck handheld.
Thanks for the guide, it was easy to follow and very concise. I had an issue that I appeared after I reassembled the Deck, the L joystick would only register up and down but no left or right, also the steam and options buttons would not register (I did not touch any ribbon cables besides the stick ones) any guidance would be highly appreciated.
The only thing preventing me from buying one of these is the stick's circularity (outer deadzone). I hope they release a newer version where they fix the circularity.
Heads up, “just holding the button for a few seconds” on the back of each did not work for me. I had to move the sticks slighting several times, hitting the button each time to get it to register as centered. No sure how that works or what I was doing but just holding the button down made them quite a bit off center. The second way of calibrating was definitely the way to go
I ordered mine, comes on 16'th. What i want to ask is, what if you have Windows on your Deck, how do you calibrate then ? I mention I upgraded my deck(LCD) from 256 to 1tb and I can plug back in the old 256 SSD which still has the Steam OS on it, not that you can't install back the steam OS. But what if you don't want to lose all the time to reinstall OS's, can you do the calibration from windows?
advice: dont fix what isnt broken. if youre somebody that DOESNT experience stick drift on the steam deck currently, you'll virtually feel no difference. understand what a fix is, its to prevent from messing up again. only utilize these sticks if you absolutely have to
You could also make an argument for not waiting for them to break. Stick drift isn't a big problem on the deck yet but eventually they will drift, and with how easy it is to install these and how affordable they are I don't see it as a big deal, but I agree it's not a must have if your sticks work. Thanks for watching and commenting! -Aish
My left stick started to drift a while back so I opened up my Steam Deck, took out the stick and use compressed air. The stick worked like new after that. I ended up buying the guli kit stick so I won't have to worry about doing this ever again while I don't have my tools on me. Also less dead zone! I feel like I have more control on the inputs I make in the games I play!
From what I could find out I noticed the original sticks on my Steam Deck were noticeably prone to develop drift. I'm glad I replaced them. Twice on my old sticks drift would show up on my right stick and would not go away untill I kept moving the stick round a circle and it fixed it too. I'm guessing it was dust or some used up analog plastic.
Do you take your car in for a yearly service or do you only go to a mechanic when something actually break? Better to have drift-free stick and not need them than to need them and not have them 🤷🏾♂️
@@retrohandhelds it's great, i'm using it to play games and also other tasks in windows it's very good, steam-deck tools to control TDP and also the fan and other settings :)
How about if my controller id starts with MLCB? Edit: Just read in a forum that theese are not compatible with steam deck oled... so guess ill have to wait for a revision
Yeah tension feels about the same, maybe a little more but my stock ones have hours of play time so it's hard to tell. These have a little bit better glide in my opinion.
I just bought it and the Y axis on the left joystick doesn't work, the store disappeared and I have no way to change the unit. The valve service for Mexico is different and requires the user to pay for shipping. Would it be advisable to change the stick? Do you think it will work for me?
I would email gulikit directly and explain to them what happened, even if the store is gone it's still their product and I'm sure customer service will help you out. -Aish
i bought me a pair, but it seems that the red wire on the right joystick is to long. now the right joystick is in a slight downward position which causes drift. i'll have to buy a new pair :( EDIT: I spoke too soon, even though I have a downward position on the right stick, the command thumbstick_cal seemed to have fixed it. thanks dude!
is there a huge difference between this and stock? i haven't had any issue with stock, should i just wait till my stock fail before replacing with this? thanks
I used a Wera PH0 for the backplate and internal screws, worked great with zero screws stripped, and I've opened the back of the Steam Deck for various mods / backplate / button changes at least 8-10 times. If you're using cheap drivers you might need a PH1.
hello im attempting to do this bought one on ifixit and the instruction says remove battery is it nessecary? Do you not need to remove the battery to do this?
If you do calibration with the hardware button on the module, it should carry over into Windows. Deadzone calibration is another matter entirely, though.
I meant 83 84 max lol. just saw it.@@retrohandheldsI expect you knew what i meant. PS I don't know why but my text always appears before the name Iof the person i am talking to. then if I add anything to the message it appears after their name. so wierd. I'll change it to 83 84.
I disagree that it's worth it to do this immediately if you're already happy with the existing sticks. If you _do_ get drift at some point, these will probably be still available.
Like with any upgrade if the current set up is working then it's not necessary, but since it's so easy to do and it's relatively inexpensive I would say it's worth it 😁
Mine is only 3 months old I don't need these but I have to see if I have the right type, Im buying these immedietly just so I'll already have them incase something happens.
My steam deck recently got absolutely horrible stick drift while playing Palworld... it was all of a sudden too so im thinking it could be a software issue. They both drift down 100% of the way randomly. It happens every 15 seconds or so sometimes even takes a minute. Anyone else having this issue after the last update??
Now that you mentioned it yes there's a little bit of travel left after it hits 100, it's not something I've noticed affecting game play but yes it's there.
@@retrohandhelds Mine hits 100 output value at 88% physical tilt. So sa 88 to 100 tilt doesn't really do much since the output value is already at 100. Doesn't really affect my game since i can set it at the lowest deadzone and just move it slightly. I'm just wondering if it's normal.
They feel awesome, it's hard to describe the difference but they have a little bit better glide and once calibrated you can reduce the dead zone and have better accuracy. -Aish
2nd method doesnt work for me. Typed what you said in konsole and it says command not found. Bro says “type gamepad-cal” then proceeds to type “thumbstick_cal” Could barely read wtf you typed with youtubes boof ahh auto 480p settings. Thanks ig
