Upgraded MRP Bud Light Tunnel Hull Rc Boat - Kyosho Dolphin Outboard Motor W/ Castle Creations 1410 

You get the full F1 package Big B, which includes breaking flex shafts and destroyed steering systems 😅. I agree with another comment; keep the plastic horns and save the servo during an impact. I broke 2 servo's on my 33" F1 tunnel. Although 48mph is a great result, I think you are pushing this hull way beyond its limits. Another blow over is 100% going to happen at those speeds and I fear you will totally destroy that beauty. I would say: de-tune this vintage runner and go for a purpose built F1 tunnel. The Zippkits 30" tunnel is a great one. Or, if you prefer the full DIY experience, I share the drawings of my F1 Tunnels for free. Awesome content as always, keep up the good work 😎 Cheers, DJ

Thank you for teaching us a valuable lesson. Servo saver's should ALSO be used on the water too!

Hey B, at least the old hull didnt explode when it blew over. And like someone said, you got 48!

Great build Big B , 👍

Maravilla de lanchas, ojalá algún día yo tuviese una.

Hay we never really cared about these kid of boats through the years they were always slow...the front ends just bobed up and down..ex...B.. you are awesome man..what you have done to this one. Wow...keep on my man...to cool..

Okay so I have a mrp miss Budweiser project and a mrp fountain project so it makes my day to see you ripping a mrp! ❤ always love your vids! I really need to start posting

Maravilla gran velocidad y deslizamiento estable.

I would use a piece of paper between the horn and servo for more traction when it gets slightly stripped out.

48 is quick ol son! Hate to see the mechanical issues . Definitely just part of the hobby.

It needs that bad ass TFL aluminum lower unit

And btw, love the channel. Your awesome dude!

She’s a little ripper! Pretty cool

Even the alloy horns strip out on crawlers anyway. It might last you longer in that though. Either that or try a servo saver. The outboard is a big steering load.

God gave us one horn, take care of it 😏 This is a great project, everything that applies to rc boats goes into tunnel hulls. I did the same thing, upgraded the servo, neglected the horn, it twisted the arm over sideways 🤣, so I think what we have learned in class today-ironclad = metal parts. Great video Big B 👍

Damn it boy, talk about a bad day at the water

GREAT RUN B. I LIKE TUNNELS AND I CAN"T LIE EH?

Got to throw some spare horns in the box big B😂😂 That hull is supper cool👍🤙🇨🇦

I’ve been eyeing the tfl cardwhell f1 tunnel. Almost bought it a few years ago but now the price went up a couple hundred. Seeing you mess around with the bud light giving me the itch

48 and no smoke - still a great day!

48 mph is wicked fast for the old girl. Back in the day, it was a challenge to get that boat past 40 with 12 Ni-cd cells. Don't give up because I know you can get it sorted. As I said before, going with a 1 piece flex cable is a must for that kind of power - I've shredded several flex cables in my TFL mini outboards that use similar 2 piece cables with square ends. I've yet to strip a cable after soldering the cable to the prop shaft. Sorting the steering issue is a head scratcher. I can't help but think that your boat might need some ballast - That boat is feather light compared to many modern F1 boats. Maybe run the heaviest battery pack you got or possibly two packs in parallel. A turn fin on the right sponson might help also. Who knows, all you can do is try different set ups until you find a happy medium which is something you excel at. At the end of the day, you're achieving your goal because It sure is entertaining watching both your successes and failures. Keep at it brotha!

Can't blame it on Donatello this time that's for sure LOL

I would put a small adjustable turn fin forward to back on with a 2 or 3 degree angle with the fins leading edge at balance point. Years back Prather tunnels had a fin & also had release holes. Check it out if you can

I'm not sure you will be able to sort all of the issues as I real tunnel hull when coming into a corner they trim engine down and then when they straighten out they trim engine up and that is what stops the over steering. Love your videos tho and the boat looks great!

Awesome cartwheels keep the balance forward turn your steering throw way down turning a outboard is way different than a rudder the thrust line changes making it steer faster than a rudder

I had a 25 dollar hot racing servo saver break on my usa-1 monster truck this weekend. I feel your pain of steering issues

I would use an aluminum servo horn

I keep the plastic horn and give the boat a new more masculine paint job!

The other thing I was wondering? With a full scale boat, we used a hydraulic Jack plate on a Hydrostream rated for 140hp. We ran it with a 250hp Yamaha. The boat did 105mph with a 28 pitch prop. Is there anything like a electronic Jack plate plate. Every full scale boat has a Jack plate, especially outboards. Does the RC industry even offer that option?

From what i know and heard the outboards kind off got out off use because off reliability issues. Believe even the new onces also have certain max rpm and power recommendations because off that. Also wondered, since a lot off guess (who know i guess) suggested to put cg back why you didn't change angle off the motor to get the nose down. The real onces trim their motor during turns and straights, so getting that the same isn't possible i asume... Just thinking...

That’s ripping on this thing. Stock it would’ve maybe done 20 with the factory motor and 7 cell nicd and mechanical speed control

Going to have to go to a aluminum steering arm plastic will never work cutting water pick up will not effect water flow when you go to a smaller prop you should drill a hole middle of lower unit so you can grease that cable want make more than 8 laps before it needs grease again love what you are doing can't afford to play with my boats any more you think outside the box like I used too raced in the largest outboard nitro race in south Carolina back in early 2000 with guys like Grim racer from NY

Compared to the real design there is a few things wrong but 1 that mite make a big difference is the motor is taller then the canape so if u were to taper the canape to the top of the motor it should give you a front end down force an lower the air drag as it hits the motor but if u taper it back down lightly like a small wave in the water it should help plant the front end an help cool the motor + lift the back end of the boat like slope it slowly till it reaches the top of the motor an round the top were the air will suck to the back of the boat before the motor ( creating a lift off water an some air blowing around motor / outdrive ) while pushing the front end of the boat down. Just a suggestion!

More negative tilt on the outboard.

Love that style boat. Is there a 30"ish kit out there that would scale to the outboards OFE sells?

Hey, thats a fast boat too 🚤😊

Nice 48 mph i like it, you seem like know know your stuff thats for sure!!!!!!!! im trying to upgrade a boat i have bc the motors are waaaay to slow but I'm lost on a problem need help my boat doesn't have a rudder to turn with, the way it turns is it cuts power to the motor thats on the inside of the side you want to turn like a "Tank would turn with tracks if i upgrade the electronics how do i Keep from having to install a rudder. im just afraid if i run these two brushless "faster" motors it will burn up what came stock on the boat what do you think???? help please it you get time bro thanks Big B

My last 3 times out have been nothing but a disappointment! I feel your pain!

Is the lower unit completely plastic? Do they make a all aluminum lower unit “foot”

Hello Big B was just wondering have you tried this charger or it's brand. ProTek RC "Prodigy 610ez AC/DC" LiHV/LiPo Balance Battery Charger (2-6S/10A/100W)

LMAO I have the same one in the garge with a KB Outboard

Where can I get a mount like that? I’m putting an 800 kv on my boat 😅

that was a short video what are you talking about!

I dont see anyone sayin it ... your trim on the outboard looks like it's running the bow up under power.

Looks like the company cause hit again.

use a four bladed prop in real life the bout use a four or five bladed prop

Keep the plastic horn!! A $2 horn hurts less to replace than a $40 servo!

Trim that motor to push the nose down in a straight! You built that adjustment for a reason!