Ryan, those who hate and call this stuff boring aren't the pioneer's of reefing. This information is gold, your team is the best source in the world for tested knowledge that produces show caliber reefs.
I've been seeing these on your website for a while now. Good to finally get a solid explanation. I blow through DI resin pretty quickly despite getting ~3tds out of my membrane. I wonder if I have high CO2 burning it up. I've been considering going with a dual stage DI anyway, but now you got me thinking.
Can you show us how it looks like when everything is connected , including all the tds meter too ? An ultimate version would be great for us to see where we should be at , including for our own consumption plus for the tank . By this new information from you guys at BRS , you might have to sell an all purpose version too ,to corner the rodi market . Who would want to buy different type of water purifier when BRS can sell it with everything in a package box delivered worldwide ? Hope this helps !
Hi Ryan, you seem to mention watching the colour change a lot. Are you saying that watching for 0 TDS is not good enough? You mention the TDS meter will tell you when you've gone too far. Is watching for the colour just giving you a head start on the need to change? I have some cartridges of unknown age that have been used and stored, then used again producing zero TDS.
I used one single canister and put half anion first (bottom half) and then half cation (top half). Did I screw up since you said cation should come first in it’s own canister I’ve only made one gallon so far…. Should I mix it up? I will put cation in one whole canister of anion followed by cation in another canister from now on, but did I really screw up by putting anion on the bottom half of the canister first then the cation on the top half of the same canister cartridge? Should I take it out and mix it up so it’s just one canister of diy mixed bed resin?
Cation really should come first in order for the pro series resin to work properly. I think your best bet here is going to be to mix up all the resin in the cartridge, treat this one like standard mixed bed, then use separate cartridges going forward. Just remember that since both the anion and cation will have color changing aspects to them, telling the color change once they're mixed will be very difficult, so keep your eyes on your TDS meter.
I need major help! I bought your 7 stage rodi 150gpd. I live on a well with a whole home water softener. My tap tds is 1300, my anion resin is turning amber completely after only 150 gallons or so. What can I do? Because I sure can't keep buying resin every other week!
So, if running a triple DI and dual Carbon Blocks, what would BRS recommend as the indicator of when to change out one or two Carbon Blocks? Right now I'm changing a carbon block when one of the Dual DI cartridges is depleted, by changing out the first one and rotating it to the back, bringing the second one forward.
Sounds my PRO Series Blue Anion Deionization Resin smell very fishy? It smelled like this when taking out of the bag to the point my hands still smell like it. Now I"m running it out on one cartige only to flush and it still smell like fish. Also RO is producing 4 TDS but after the PRO Series Blue Anion Deionization Resin its coming out 15 tds, how long do I need to run it for before it starts production lower values of tds as well as no more fish smell?
Could I use 2 cation (C), 2 anion (A) and 2 mixed (M) in series in that order (C, C, A, A, M, M), and every time a single canister is depleted shift the other one to the first spot and refill the other canister and place it in the second spot. That way I think no resin would be wasted and i stand no risk (or at least a way lower risk) of 100% depleting a resin canister and dumping unwanted substances in the tank. for example the cation canisters: I have 2 cation canisters in series. the 1st canister is 100% depleted and the 2nd is 5% depleted. I would place the 5% depleted canister in the 1st spot. I would refill the 100% depleted canister and place it in the 2nd spot. thanks in advance for your reply.
Ryan, I have a BRS 4 Stage RO System that I would like to add the separate Cation and Anion Canisters to. In your examples, you show adding an additional carbon block making it a 7 stage system. What would be the result if I leave the 4 Stage as is, come out of the Carbon blocks and jump to the Cation, then Anion canisters, then jump back to the Mixed bed in the 4 stage? I ak because I have all the parts to do this, but what is the risk over the 7 stage proposal? Worth it? Thanks!
Essentially you would have a 6-stage that would follow this path... sediment filter -> carbon block -> cation -> anion -> mixed bed. That said, the purpose of a dual carbon block system, instead of one, is to break that chlorine and ammonia bond from chloramines in your municipal water. If your city doesn't use chloramines for water treatment yet, then a single carbon block will likely get the job done. However if your city does use chloramines, a single carbon block is less effective at breaking that bond which may result in some residual ammonia getting through your system to your DI resin, most likely resulting in a faster DI resin consumption than if you had two carbon blocks.
Yes, just keep in mind that the standard mixed bed DI resin doesn't have a color changing dye to indicate when it's used up, so you'll want to keep an eye on your TDS meter.
Hi Ryan. Sorry, I do not agree with the idea. In the last episode I questioned the use of dual type resins. It is a bad idea because one type of beads does exhaust very quickly - and we need to remove all resin !. It is similar when activated carbon is mixed with GFO. This approach was tried and it was unsuccessful in water treatment many year ago. The problem is not new - the solution of two containers with two H+ and OH- resins are classical and it has been used for many... years for water softening etc. Putting the third sage with mixed resin. Why not = but it is simply wasting a money. From my experience, two canisters with separate H+ and OH- resins are the most efficient option. With ammonia, simply put clay/zeolite that is strongly adsorbed ammonia in the last canister - solved (and cheap). Most H+ and OH- resins (without colour indicator) can be purchased in 50 kg bags. They are the same as those used in water treatment - at least in Europe; Cheers.
All depends on your water quality, the water in AL from my well is extremely different than City Water in Minnesota. So it's not the same for your goals.
