I personally LOVE in mast furling when offshore. The ability to furl sail when the wind picks up without changing course is awesome. Also love having the exact right amount of sail out. Infinite reef points.
I hate all mainsail roller furling. I have slab reefing and I can also reef on any point of sail. It's a 60ft boat that my wife can reef by herself in under a minute in any breeze in any direction. And when the sail is working it's actually sail shaped, unlike any roller furling main.
I’ve always enjoyed your retrospectives. But when you speak your truth from your experience (crazy stuff you’ve shown•over the years)backed by facts presented professionally. Standing O. Well done and thank you.
Definitely hitting the replay at some stage having only watched the end of the video. James you have had a great channel for donkeys years, have a ripper mate and stay safe!
I enjoyed this Mano, it was well explained for us that do not have the experience or understanding for the little things that matter when it hits the fan. Very well done
Slab reefing…have a downhaul on the luff, attached to the deepest reef cringle. Makes life much easier reefing in a blow or off wind. Also, if your lines go back to the cockpit, you only have to go forward when you reef to set the Cunningham, and you don’t have to go to the mast base at all for the deepest reef, which is usually when things are getting difficult up forward.
Capt. James, the direction you took on your channel is a welcome surprise. Being a Charter Captain on the west coast of California, I found your information to be perfect for sailors. I have saved this series for clients who are either looking for a boat or going to venture offshore. I get a lot of questions, but this series touched on so much more. Good job, and keep up the nice work.
James, this is such an awesome series. My wife and I once had a small weekender boat for coastal sailing and while some of the concepts you talk about are geared more for offshore, they still are worthy of consideration for coastal too -- vastly improves safety regardless of where you encounter obstacles and threats. Best wishes for continued success in this theme -- you are helping to make people more safe in their enjoyment of the seas.
If you want to propellers and only one engine there is the option of a hydraulic gearbox. So you can have two hydraulic gearboxes connected to one center engine.
I would never own a dual rudder system so to me, the only reason to have 2 props is to have 2 engines making bow thrusters not needed on bigger sailboats. I wonder what has more drag, a bow thruster or a folding prop and shaft.
You can build a somewhat water tight box around the inboard steering gear. It will not be water tight as you have to have holes to allow the steering cable and either wires or hoses for the autopilot, but having a box would slow down the water coming in to the point just about any decent bilge pump could keep up.
Great stuff James. Looking forward to the cat and tri episode. I am obsessed with the new soon to be shown Dragonfly 36 with wave piercing bows across all three hulls. Would love to hear your opinions on tri's - Dragonfly and Rapido in particular.
FYI: Dave Barry was a satirist writing for a Miami newspaper. Very funny columnist. I did not know he sailed. Really great questions and answers, James! Do more, but Never pick one of my questions - you will only embarrass me! :) Oh, get Plukky to join you again - the two of you are so aware of boats, formulas stats - you know what I mean. See ya next time, :¬) Webhead USA
Hi James, I really love your videos and have been watching them before you left Florida on your catamaran. I'd love to hear what you think would be the best lightweight performance cruising catamaran and why.
"make sure there is a skeg on it" but skegs on fibreglass boats are not great. They are very difficult to laminate as they are so narrow. Those reinforced by metal framework inside tend to suffer from bond failure due to differential thermal expansion and lack of oxygen encourages corrosion in the metal part. Many FRP skegs are decorative only. In a metal boat - skefs are very effective.
Anything hydraulic. Get a couple spare sets of seals. (They're not expensive.) And make sure you know how to replace them. It doesn't look that difficult. Maybe replace or partially take apart a ram before you go so you know how to capture the oil, etc.... and you're confident doing it. I was on a chartered Fontaine Pajot in La Paz that had bad seals on the hydraulic steering. Total pain in the butt. Of course the world's largest charter company just kept texting us back more and more questions, 'Gee this is unusual.... They knew. They'd 'upgraded' us to this boat because who ever had it refused to go back out on it. They even sent mechanics out who fiddled around with it for the same amount of time it would've taken to fix it - if they had the parts and if the company had any integrity. Spares. Sometimes when you get spares for your boat, if it's a common model, or the components are common, and inexpensive, don't take up too much room, take along extras -- just on the chance you meet another boat that needs that part and can't get it locally. (10mm gas shock ends, that hold open hatches? Don't bother looking for them in Asia, where they make them. It's Ali Baba, Amazon or forget it. I know I tried. When I got home I gave the owners two different types. About 16 pieces. They only needed one. Keep'em, these are every pick up truck shell, most RVs and a lot of boats. Someone else is going to have to bring a bottle of wine or a lobster to dinner. You bring one of these to someone who's been holding the hatch up with their head for a couple of months?...) I've got 20 year old dryform compacted B&R rigging on my Hunter 456. Each of the three sides has two cables. Because of the condition it's in and the redundancy riggers tell me not to replace it until I'm going to head across the ocean. I would always use the dryform compacted rigging. Just seems worth the extra cost and improved strength and minimal voids allowing in water and air. Graphite filler. (WestSystems 423 I think) This makes a reduced friction surface so with epoxy might make an emergency sleeve, or fill in an irregular (worn out) hole.
What are you thoughts on Steel boats? I have one and it seems that steel could fix a lot fiberglass problems (like keel connection,fixing - unlike fiberglass - weld is always 100% strong ) (except rust).
This might be a very dirty subject to talk about but could you do a video on the pros and cons of buying a Beneteau for offshore. For many of us surfing yachtworld, once we enter our bank balance lots of Beneteaus come up. I know many other youtubers are sailing around the world on them.
This is real simple: Pros: you can afford a bigger boat. Cons: you are taking more of a risk. Money in the bank does no good when you are 1,000 miles for any land and it hits you that the boat you are on is not up to the task. More Beneteau boats cross oceans that any other boat brand, but it's because they are the most affordable and most available. They are also the brand that has the most problems at sea. Fact is, production boats made in Europe, mostly France, are built for the Med sea. In the Med sea, you either have very light winds for very strong winds. People don't like sailing in very strong winds, so they make the boats to sail in the very light winds. That means making the boats as light as possible and everything from hull shape to keel shape to rudder shape is all about getting it going as fast as possible both downwind and upwind. Charter boat companies consist of the majority of their business and charter boats go someplace but also have to return back (upwind). Sure, they have to make the boat be able to handle the strong winds of the Med sea, but they build them to the minimum standards for it. American production boats are built a bit stronger as we have a much wider range of winds here. Hunter has always gotten a lot of flack, mostly over there B&R rig but most don't understand the engineering of it. What people don't know is that they, along with Catalina, build their keels the same way Oyster and Moody does with a keel stub (20 years ago I read it was called a keel box but I have been informed a keel box is something totally different). The keel is the most important part of the boat and bolt to the hull with a blade type keel is the weakest type of keel and is what is on the Beneteau boats of today. I also liked how Hunter made some of the rudder posts out of composite materials instead of SS. The idea is that if you hit something big/strong enough to cause damage to the hull or bend a SS post, the composite post breaks off leaving the boat afloat and still able to sail with good seamanship. Many of these Hunters also had a rudder post tube (massive) that went all the way up to the cockpit, so no way was water ever getting inside the cabin. Hunter also used big backing plates on everything unlike European production boats with just washers behind most stuff. My advice, either look for a smaller better built boat or an old bluewater boat with few miles on it. There are so many bluewater boats sitting in marinas that have very few offshore miles on them. People buy them with plans to go cruising but never do. If you can't find one of those, get an American made production boat (Hunter, Catalina, or a higher end Island Packet).
@@FranklinGray Thanks, great info, not sure if the brands you mention are common outside the US. Lots of ex-charter yachts in the med and Caribbean which is more the angel I'm coming from. Purchasing yachts in the US isn't always practical for non-Americans but your advice sounds good for locals.
@@Leo-vk6qm For the Caribbean you want something heavy. The average winds in the Caribbean during cruising season is 20-25 knots. Sure, it's mostly close reaching but it's windy and choppy. Beneteau boats get tossed around out there a lot. There are a ton of light coastal European cruisers there because they buy them in the med and then cross the Atlantic to the Caribbean and it's rough and then they sail a bit in the Caribbean then put it up for sale. It could be that the boat is for sale because they did all they wanted to do, or it could be they didn't really enjoy it (wrong boat). I did 6 years of cruising on the wrong boat and I didn't know it until I bought a right boat :)
I delivered a boat down to Mexico twenty years ago, about forty feet long but cannot remember the make. It had one engine, hydraulic drive to two .. Bilge type keels with the drives inside. You could control each prop independently and put one in forward and other in reverse! It turned on a dime like a cat. One rudder. It did not sail too well with two thick stumpy keels but the maneuverability was incredible. I like the electric motor idea though!
Hey James Will you do a review of a Rhodes Swiftsure 33? That's what I have, currently in West Palm Beach, Florida getting it Refit with a 100k budget to sail the World 150 built in Amsterdam Cheers
Not a great boat for offshore. I would sell it and get a boat designed to be offshore. Don't put any more money in it. With $100k there are MUCH better boats. There is a Baba 40 for sale in the Chesapeake for $39k right now. This article explains it clearly: www.sailnet.com/threads/swiftsure-33-rhodes.339654/
Hi not sure if you've got time but would like to know your problem solving check list if you start to notice water egress during an offshore trip . Not emergency level yet but very concerning if you don't solve the issue.
You know nothing about boats it seems. My 38 year old Whitby 55 is a better built boat than anything built today except maybe a Kraken. It's not about the age, but how it was built, the design, and how much abuse it has taken over the years. I've blown by large modern Beneteau boats at sea while drinking ice tea heeling just 12 degrees upwind with the autopilot on while they were fighting hard at the helm to keep the boat under control healing 20+ degrees. I'm not talking about a tenth of a knot faster, but over a knot faster. Same water line so the boats are comparable in length. It's about build quality and design, not how good they look down below. Next time you are looking at one of those cheap big boats, ask yourself: where am I and my crew dong to sleep on this boat when she is heeled over 25 degrees and being thrown around like a rag doll in 10+ (that is average) foot seas for days on end? A good blue water boat has many sea births. A cheap production boat built for chartering has maybe 1 sea birth if you are lucky and the rest are for at anchor. Every single one of my births is a sea birth. It can sleep 7 people AT SEA in rough conditions. If I don't give my boat to my boy when he gets older and have to sell it, I will not be selling it any less than an inflation adjusted 400K in todays market. After all, a Kraken, the only comparable boat, is about 1.8 million. Oysters are really good boats too. Not at a Kraken level, but good boats.
@@FranklinGray I know better ways to spend 300k. I never said it wasn't a good boat. You should practice reading comprehension before you so eagerly jump at the chance to type a paragraph and stroke your ego.
