Whenever I'm checking for extrusion, I gently pinch the 'input' side and feel it pulling my fingertips against the top surface of the direct-drive unit, this gives good haptics where you can feel things like 'clicking' if something is stalling or skipping, as well you can be mean to it by pinching harder and seeing if it can overcome the tension, ensures the gears are meshed properly and pulling hard.
@@AttemptedMaker Apologies for the late reply, yes I am INTO 3D printing and I have watched 100s of videos about 3D printing and modeling! I like to see different modifications on 3D printers as it's fascinating to see what people do with their printers and what I can learn from their successes (and failures!). Thank you very much for teaching me something new, and again best of luck 👍.
Liked the video very much ^^ It's the realization every 3D-Printer owner has to come to.... The next upgrade probably won't be the last ^^ But for me that's the fun of it.
Haha yeah. I really want to focus on making cool things but I do keep getting distracted by upgrades. Especially with everyone telling me I should install Klipper. Thanks for the encouragement mate.
Little word of note, when you wire in an always-on fan (or at least one without PWM control), you can insert the step-down converter normally in the entirely obvious way. But when you wire in a PWM fan such as part cooling fan that you want to run with a step-down converter, you need to wire positive output of the main board to the positive input of the converter, positive output of the converter to positive input of the fan, negative of the fan to the negative output of the main board, and a random mainboard ground to the ground of the converter module. Because otherwise the voltage regulator will likely go bonkers so the outcome isn't going to be what you want, it's probably not going to PWM, and the converter might smoke, and it might smoke your fan along with itself. All boards today are low-side switching, meaning the 24V connection is just directly connected, and the ground connection is interrupted by a MOSFET. As described, all the current is going effectively through the corresponding fan output, but the random ground lead provides a reference level to the converter to keep stable. Why you might want a 12V PWM fan on a 24V system? Same reason, to install a more nicely manufactured Delta or Sunon fan and when you're getting them from surplus rather than ordering them from a pharmacy.
@@AttemptedMaker Oh btw the buck converters you show are fake. All of these are. It says LM2596 on them, but the chip is actually a re-marked LM2576 or clone. This would have been fine except the supporting component values are chosen for LM2596, which has very different switching timings, which causes these boards to impart a substantial ripple on the output when loaded up with higher current. A fan or an LED strip won't care, but don't connect a Raspberry Pi downstream or something like that - choose an XLSemi converter instead; or even one of those little tiny little shits like Mini360, just because they don't look imposing doesn't mean they are junk.
@@AttemptedMaker And oh you managed to get yourself a 24V Sunon, nice. And without the filthy AutoRestart feature as well. I have had so much "fun" with my Sunon Maglev autorestart fan. For one i had to build a tau filter for the motor not to sound like absolute disaster or do weird things; for other the MagLev bearing REALLY didn't love being slung around on the toolhead and would just get stuck and make horrendous noises, i ended up opening it up and flooding the shaft with grease. It's probably no longer really MagLev but it's been working for a while and it makes air, and doesn't vibrate much, so eh?
I thought that im the dummer in 3d printing but after you vid i understood that im just a beginner with no experience. Always having problems with the extruder or the hotend but now i realised that i need to buy a good branded extruder hotend kit.
I had tonns of fun messing around with the mechanics of my flyingbear ghost 4s (its frame is basically the only original thing left), but I'm still afraid of doing anything related to software like klipper. I should really give it a try as it might be a great enhancement of the quality
