I realize that this is an older video, but I still want to add my 2 cents. Your machine is brilliant. I love watching how your project has progressed. It has even inspired some ideas of my own. Thanks for all of your videos. It's such a shame that RU-vid shafted you like they did. Stay safe and keep us updated on your progress
Great video! I am impressed with your resourcefulness and creativity. Though my need for this appliance is not in gun making, I do see how I could use it for making grooves in gearbox bushings, and other applications. Thanks again for posting this!
This is a very good idea! From a few not too hard to get parts, with that power tool, you can basically rifle a barrel relatively good and keep the same rifling twist and quality for multiple barrels and it can rifle fast and with relatively little energy required.
Got me there, I suppose there would be a backlash from angry cyclists world wide. People don't need urging much to create a new organisation against something.
I missed the episode of the 10" twist and how it was made,enjoy this craft,very much .thanks for sharing! I like the kolt style and am intrigued how the slide is to be made,I'm 61 and don't want to make wood bird houses,metal crafting is great.thank you.
The original construction is the first video on my channel. I shows some of the basics of the build. I love working with metal. I did birdhouses a long time ago.
I get a big kick out watching that bicycle part work. That's something that shouldn't be there:) This is so simple, I can't imagine it having any value. Anyone can just build their own.
a good source for thrust bearings are automotive AC compressors. The ones I have salvaged are in the range of 17mm id and 36 od and comes with hardened washers. 2 bearings per compressor. nice fabricating grtz
Since you plan to use this with a motor, why not try to make a rifling button out of some drill rod slightly bigger than the land diameter and ground down with the angle grinder? For me, your old method works well so I don't plant to motorize mine, but since you already did it with yours you might have enough torque to rifle in one pass. Just a thought.
You were right, sweet power conversion! I guess the only length limitation is the program shaft itself. For an 18" or longer barrel I am assuming you need a longer program shaft with the twist rate adjusted (closer to 1:12 or 1:10 depending on caliber). Possibly an adjustment to the size of the indexing collet depending on the barrel diameter. Funny I thought about using a circular saw blade but never thought about the sawzall blades. I assume you produce a cleaner groove than the original masonry bit design?
Yes, you're correct. Just make longer twist programmer. The threaded rods I used for the bulk of the build are very adjustable. The groove is magnitudes better than the masonry bit. See this photo... picasaweb.google.com/101083597357673892226/Kolt380#6296964552477894642
How did you come up with the rifling tool, just figured it out or saw some plans or what? It certainly looks like the tool for the job. Keep on keeping on.
Thay my friend is an original. I came up with that stone age tool all on my own. I just re-invented a lesser tool that probably already exists in a better version.
You might look into "Acme screws" for an upgrade. They can be a cheap way to have a strong and smooth linear actuator for something like what you are doing. Same type of threads as your vice's heart. They take much more of a side load without binding due to the square section of the threads.
I will look. At this point, I'm beside myself with excitement over how well this works. No chattering on the cuts, and about as smooth as anything I've ever build. My son thinks that I've abused his bicycle for nefarious purposes. Hey, he moved out of our home 12 years ago and I store his junk:) I have the option of re-purposing:)
Clinton Westwood Your son may want to inherit your nefarious creations. Let him play with the proceeds and he'll change his tune. The acme screw is just smoother and more durable than the threaded rod. Threaded rod is a fastener, designed to tighten and bind. Acme screws are for pushing or pulling things. Odds are you won't ever wear your present rig out if you use a good grease, so my idea is just a bonus design improvement for someone else building from scratch. It would maybe add $15-20 to the overall build cost and make a much stouter machine. Also, it could handle more force so that button rifling concept some other guy had becomes more plausible. However, I have heard of people doing that with a simple jack based shop press.
Thanks for the input. I'm not even sure where I can purchase ACME screw rods. I certainly remember that name from the "Roadrunner" cartoons. I thought they made anvils and TNT:)
Don't ask and ye shall receive anyway: www.surpluscenter.com/Power-Transmission/ACME-Thread-Lead-Screw-Nuts/ACME-Thread-Lead-Screws/1-2--10-X-36-ACME-LEAD-SCREW-1-2983-50-3.axd www.roton.com/Mating_Components.aspx?family=7160450 Or just google "Acme Screw" and see about 3 pages of vendors. The main thing they go with is rocket skates.
:) I've got to admit, I didn't really know much about these screws. I observed years ago that the screws on a lathe had a squarish thread. I just had no reason to put two and two together. Now I see some new tools in my future... thanks. And rocket skates never work as advertised:(
You sort of used my idea. I'm pleased that you would take my comments seriously. I didn't consider carbide sawzall. That's a good idea. I was just thinking of stuff I tend to have around the shop. Carbide can be ground thin, like anything else, but the teeth on your saw blade are bonded better than a ground down skillsaw tooth probably would be.
Yes, you are the viewer referenced in the video. This IS a community and I thank you. I'm sorry, I didn't have the patience to wade through the 100's of comments to attribute properly. I will look after that shortly. I'm very impressed with that Sawzall blade. Like I said, it can cut anything in half. Anyway, thanks again for the idea. I like the idea of using carbide and will be on the hunt for a slightly wider cutting surface.
Clinton Westwood No, I don't need attribution. Helping is the fun part, not getting credit. Also seeing how well the idea works or doesn't/ You're the one doing the work. I was just thinking that you could do an adjustable cutter. Think of an expanding reamer. Most of them grow with a set screw pushing on a cone to be the reverse of a collet. We can make that principle flat rather than rotationally symmetrical. If your cutter body is basically a rod with a slot in it, you could have the blade base ramped and sitting on an opposite ramped piece of blade steel. Two wedges = parallel. Then a very small set screw can push the lower wedge back, increasing height as you work the tool.
Dude you didn't have't to cut up a perfectly good bike frame to make your thrust baring, you just need one single bike axle, and you can buy them pretty cheaply as a separate part. Just keep that in mind next time xD
Well look at that, a deviled swede rifling cutter. That is a slick working rig. Look out, Obumer is going to send the ATF after the saw blade section at Home-depot. Wally-world might even have to shut down their bike department. ;-)
Clinton Westwood what do you work out the twist rate with.dosent the faster the bullet need a longer twist rate the slower the bullet need a short twist.or don't it matter.
To repeat the smarter positve comments great job, as for the negatives ha ha i didnt read one the wankers usally decry something beyond them. However a separate video on making the smaller calibre rifling cutter would be appreciated, as anyone with a brain knows the barrel and its deep hole and good rifling is the hardest part to make. Thanks chris
Gunsmith here. I'm sure you're not going for accurate because that set up just wont do it. Why not just make a button? It's on if the easiest ways to rifle and it's way more accurate than try to saw rifling out.
Cut rifling has been used for precision muzzleloaders for centuries. The force required for button rifling is WELL beyond the force this rig can handle. As a gunsmith you should know this.
@@dannyh8288 had to rewatch the video to remember what was going on. Also this set up isn't going to any sort accuracy by today's standard becuase of the cutting tool and rig. I suggested button rifling to be used instead of this device. So I'm not sure what you're getting at with the "As a gunsmith you should know this"
@@libertarianGO I meant the INCREDIBLE pressures necessary to swage rifling into a piece of semi-hard steel, versus cutting it. Also, its a small .380. I am quite sure he is not going for benchrest accuracy, rather he is relating to us a method that works to cut rifling that is easily done in the most basic home shop. Sure, he can get a Pratt and Whitney 100 ton screw press and get hardened steel rifling buttons made, but that wasn't his point was it?
@@dannyh8288 I don't disagree with you but my point is still the same about button rifling. Also you don't need 100 tons for that. You can also do the button broach hybrid which requires even less and can be done with a mounted car jack. Either way it sounds like we agree that there are several ways to skin a cat. I just think the way he did it is not the most accurate for an at home set up. If it works for him that's great.
I will consider that. Between the very first ancient video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ihPFjuxBjPo.html and this one, what kind of information would be helpful. Remember, there are no drawings and the idea is to use whatever is on hand. But I AM receptive.
Very nice, pretty low speeds, but maybe if you start cutting deep then some grease on those threads will help keep the action smooth. Faster or higher torque might cause a bit of a bind without grease. I could be wrong, heck I'm probably wrong just ask my wife. ;)
Is there anyway maybe at the end of the video (once the gun is completed) you can put materials you used with the sizes (Thickness, Width ect) if its too much no worries. Keep up the good work, can't wait to see the slide and barrel being installed ;-p
The link is in the description, or here... www.mediafire.com/download/qbxceei0wk5p9x6/The+MK.2+DIY+Sheet+Metal+Self-loading+Pistol+%28ProfessorParabellum%29.pdf
Research what twist ratio you need. Say your application calls for 1:28. That means 1 rotation for every 28". Mark your tube 28". Mark a straight line from end to the 28". Take a string and starting from the end center mark, wrap once down the tube to the center mark at the 28" mark. Make sure the string is evenly spaced. Mark where the string is. That is your template for tacking on the guide strip. And that's the basics.
You're right. In a high volume operation, probably a better idea. In my "run what you brung" workshop, and the projected number of uses, I'd be happy to wear it out:)
Absolutely carbide tipped. Look closely. Apparently used for cutting cast iron. Try a google search. Or follow this... www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-6-in-8-Teeth-per-in-Steel-Demon-Carbide-Tipped-Thick-Metal-Cutting-Reciprocating-Saw-Blade-DS0608CF/205426155
Ok I stand corrected then. I'm a carpenter and use them often but I always thought that the metal cutting blades were made of the same metal as the wood cutting blades, just finer teeth. Very interesting concept and well executed idea you have here. Bravo.
The slot in the rod and the blade itself are cut with a slight matching angle. They kind of taper fit. The bottom of the blade rests on the shim block. I've seen no evidence of tipping or moving when in use.
I have even a better idea. try changing the carbide teeth to a stripe of sandpaper pushed upwards by a tiny spring pushing constantly against the inner barrel creating a more precise shaved rifling surface...
Those blonde haired blue eyed Swiss children would not be brazing carbide teeth on to the saw blades, they would be programming a CNC machine to do it wholesale
If you mean using a jobber drill bit as a twist guide, the twist is two tight. The twist on this machine is approximately 1:10 (1 turn every 10 inches).
Mr. Clinton Westwood. I appreciated with video you made. Can you please update the link to mediafire.com/ or it better to redirect to another, like the Google drive. The cause that the mediafire service does not work properly. I tried it on the website and also by Android "mediafire" apk, but in vain. Thank you very much.
+Clinton Westwood wow you could probably make a Jäger pistol with your great machining skills. The World War One pistol made from sheet metal sides with some parts that are milled. Forgotten weapons disassembly: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Lcr-KEQT0iM.html
