Upgrading to DCC - Is it worth the money? 

We upgraded to DCC finally last year and are enjoying it far more than we could have ever imagined. There is no going back now!

I like your style and your approach. It's nice to see someone who is 'wide-eyed' and not at all jaded (not saying that all other modelling RU-vidrs are jaded!). Best of luck with the channel!

Wow that's awesome!! And the music that's fantastic!!! This locos are very cool things!!

I am also a very passionate about this hobby, however I have 4 old H0 scale Lima locos, I have fixed with appropriate decoders. I have also purchased Z21 black control set. But I have yet to install it on my DC layout. I have got a great boost seeing you young man so excited. Please keep uploading new videos. It will be a great help to me.

Wondeful locos. I *love* DCC ... when I returned to model railways aroundbtej years ago I decided to go straight into it (DCC) from the get go ... never looked back. Thanks for the great video 👍🚂

Hornby’s new HM DCC Bluetooth system is a game changer. It’s fully compatible with traditional DCC but you don’t have to spend a fortune anymore and it’s more user friendly and powerful.

Once you go sound you cannot go back to silent movies? It's brilliant.

Love the channel mate. I’m new to model railways. Great to here your experiences and tips.

Seeing the joy on your face just running those locos around is what this hobby is all about! You’ve also given yourself something incredibly valuable, flexibility. There may be challenges flipping between DCC and DC once you start doing more complex things like block detection. But there are always solutions and finding them is part of the fun. Have a great Christmas and look forward to seeing more in 2024.

Great video. At this point I think it's a complete myth that DCC is especially expensive, provided you seek out the bargains. I upgraded to DCC for $30 for the command station (DCC-EX), $15 for loco decoders (Laisdcc) and $50 for loco decoders with sound (Hornby HM7000). DCC-EX also enables you to switch between DCC and DC on the fly using the same hardware via DCC-EX Control Box app.

The main difference between the white and the black units is that the white one can only run Roco protocol accessoires, where the black one has LocoNet that allows most of the stuff on the market to be connected to it. The wireless unit is known to consume loads of batteries, the connections at the front of the unit are for the wired version (red and grey units)

and yet another superb video! and that face! Full of joy.

There's a 3rd option to DC and DCC. Bluetooth. The new kid on the block does the same as DCC but is both less faff and cheaper. It's a game changer and IMO the way to go, especially if starting from scratch.

Digital model railroading brings you closer to reality because digital locos can roam freely all over your layout like they could do in reality. The costs of getting your analogue locos digital depend largely on what you are looking for and are substantially cheaper if you concentrate - let us say - on moving and lights. If you need more function terminals for cab light or machine lights or sound functionality, you have to spend a lot of more money. And you do not need do get all your locos DCC-ready in one day or one month. But before you move on I would recommend to prepare your wiring for higher currents. According to Roco your Z21 central unit allows a track current of 3 A in maximum. An analogue track circuit usually does not exceed 1 A, often 0,5 A fulfills all needs of an analogue train even with illuminated coaches. The electric equipment of a model loco, especially its current collectors are not able to carry 3 A in case of a derailment ending up in a short circuit. The heat could ruin the current collectors and even the wheels if your central unit does not cut off its power immediately. To ensure a quick cut off to protect your rolling stock in case of short circuits (and to avoid stuttering) you should avoid a resistive power distribution by ... ... using wires with at least 0,75 mm² cross-section (the wires I saw in your video are ridiculous) ... feeding your tracks at least every 2 m, better 1 m if already fixed ... feeding stump tracks on both sides. As a test you could lay an electrically conductiing coin on your powered track and the Z21 has to cut off power immediately whereever you dropped the coin. When operating with DC you should be aware that many digital decoders allow analogue operation as well. If you do not want to remove all DCC-ready locos from your layout whenever running a DC-only model you should be able to turn off sidings or stump tracks.

I’m quite sure you can adjust volume settings.

Hi, just found you channel and will be interested to see how things develop. The Z21 is an excellent choice, Ive had one for years, infact both white and black for two layouts. No addresses nor functions to remember, I just love it.

I did the switch to DCC after seeing how nicer the running of the locos is. Even though some of my 130 (yikes) locos have to go. In many ways, it rationlises ones thoughts and direction in the hobby. Well done Sir :)

Great stuff. I just received a Gaugemaster 4 way panel mount DC controller last month and have since watched both you and Dave at Scott Rails getting excited about DCC. I guess as you have done, I could have both wired up but I think I would always lean towards the DCC for a running session. I wanted to get back into the hobby with DC and then move to DCC but it looks really cool and I like the idea of converting old locos to DCC. Thanks for the conundrum! 😂 Have a Merry Christmas man. David

the next step is battery power in the locos with the HM7000 decoders.

Great video. 👍 I'm just about to take the plunge in to dcc I run dc at the moment. So like you I'm going to combine the two.

Mallard railroad tts upgrade speaker in tender and the sound improves . I can only suggest road and rail uk but any speakers in the tender are cheap and nasty as supplied . There is a volume option on tts on function or by altering cvs via the z21 and its app.

The digital route makes sense. The new Bluetooth systems look interesting and a lot less complex - and cheaper perhaps? - IMO.

You have taken a leap into the great unknown😂 Almost anything that is done in DCC can be done in DC, but your choice obviously. Arguments (discussions) still continue in the UK😂😂😂 Glad the channel is growing - hope the rest of the year goes well.🎅🎅🎅

That Z21 unit is very far from basic despite the looks. I also use the multimaus for control but resort to the app for programming for the more advanced features. I wouldn't run DC and DCC on the same layout as one moment of forgetfulness could lead to irreparable damage.

May I ask how you are getting on with the Roco Z21. I am considering utilising the multimouse handheld unit, but pairing it with the MXZION 30Z german high power system, allowing up to 30 amps for running locos. (Will not possibly need that much overhead, but I anticipate perhaps needing 15 to 20 amps over the development period of the layout, which is in it's infancy now. Would very much value your opinion. Many thanks.

Waar koop jy meeste van jou stock?

Yes with dcc you drive the train ,not the track.

Oh no ! DCC is the work of the devil . Computers will never catch on . Seriously I’m an analogue guy because I have so many locos , many of them from my childhood , so I won’t be going DCC . But I wish you well with it . If starting today I might go DCC , but I do just like running trains , anything that involves getting into electronics , programming is a real turn off ( I used to get too much of that at work ) . Programming CV29 etc just turns me off

You should never upgrade to DCC. You should have started with it from the beginning. No excuse you are a millennial. I've used DCC for maybe 25 years and moved from Arnold, to Lenz, then to ESU. All good and fun to use. Have fun with it and make no excuses to analog :)