Great video as always, however I went 1 step further with my SSR I actually wired the SSR to a duplex outlet instead of just a power cord. This served my need to have my dedicated vacuum for the dust collection to be able to be powered on by the SSR also. So now when my machine powers on the spindle not only does my router start but also my vacuum.🤓
@@bermchasin I believe so. If you search online there is a speeds and feeds documentation guide for the dewalt router that breaks it down by the knob adjustment on the router. So you adjust the knob setting based on the RPM you want for the bit you're using. If I'm incorrect in this, please let me know. Good luck!
The very first time I saw mention of having to turn that router on and off manually rather than from the control board the SSR was what came to mind for me...
Quick note on the SSR...I see it's marked as 36v input. You would probably think this is okay as according to the specs on the sain smart website, the spindle is 24v. I have already confirmed with a multimeter the spindle is not 24v. It is 12-48v. I would check the voltage of the motor leads and adjust the knob down until you are safely within the input range of the SSR to avoid overheating and damage.
Thank you James for your video. I suggest you to check the output power with the potentiometer of the control box to 32V because the Max power is 48V and I burned 3 SSR 😃
Completed my upgrade with the Dewalt and began the spoil board surfacing after tramming and found out a little surprise. When I ran the outline test (Gsender) with my surfacing gcode my machine (6060) ran into the y+ limit switch. Was quite surprised because I didn't change anything more than the spindle. The problem turned out to be the size of the Dewalt router and its mounting bracket that pushed out the bit position further out from the z carriage. So my home position was about an inch further in on the Y+ axis and just enough to trip the limit switch. The Y+ limit switch was set for about 25 inches with the old spindle. So now I'm just about 24 inches which is ok.
Just to be clear, I'm removing the spindle wire from the x and y tracks, and "replacing" it with the power cord from the trim router. Then, I'm connecting the spindle wire terminals to the input side of the relay, directly from the controller box - and that relay and the power extension cord can be placed on the table, near the controller. (Instead of replacing the female spade terminal with eye connectors, I'll leave them on the spindle wire, and run two short wires with male spade connectors to the spindle end, and the eye connectors on the relay side. That way, I can easily switch back to my original spindle if I need to.)
@@JamesDeanDesigns do you have any plans to do the same upgrade on your fox alien 4040-XE and compare the two by chance? I'd be interested to see what your thoughts would be on the two machines side by side with the Dewalt router upgrade on each. Thanks again for the helpful videos!
complimenti per i tuoi video,sei stato fondamentale per me.ti chiedo se posso collegare l'aspiratore ed il router allo stesso dispositivo rele per farli accendere al solito momento.grazie
Great video James, I usually do a dB check at 1m distance. Also worth doing the test external to your sound cabinet to see what it will be like in working environment.
Hey James, Another great video. Keep pushing that feed rate as I'm positive you can double your test speed at the least! I'm going to order one of these relay's so I can wire mine up like this. Thanks for another great idea!!
Hey James. I have the Provelxl 4030 and I just ordered the IoT relay you mentioned in the video. My question is how can I do the setup using this device rather than wiring things myself? Thanks for the great video.
At 6m50s you mention and put up a picture of an extension with inbuilt sir and say you will link to it in the description but I can’t see that link. Great video’s by the way, really helped in getting going with the CNC.
@@markone3093 I think I mentioned it on the video, or certainly in the description that's it's only available in the US. The link is just trying to find the closest thing in the UK. I've searched several times but been unable to find a similar product for the UK unfortunately
@@JamesDeanDesigns yes the only similar one I found has either contact switching or DCv switching in the range 5v to 14v but obviously if the pot on the control unit of the CNC were turned up full the power on the spindle cable would exceed the 14v and blow the input of the IOT. I’ll stick with the linked sir and build it into a metal box with a std U.K. 3 pin socket on the front. That way the ssr can heat sink through the metal box. 👍
I have a small problem with the Makita router, unfortunately with this technique.I bought the same relay, I connected it exactly as it appears in the video, when the relay signals, the top LED on the Makita router starts flashing red, after I close and restart the router, it works. Could the Makita have a fuse or something similar? I can't think of anything else, I don't know if it works for others, but that's the only way it works for me. Stop interestingly stops after the job is finished..Any ideas or what I could do, if I remove the switch from the Makita.. it's only interesting from the warranty point of view..
I hang my DWP611 power cord from the ceiling rather than feeding into the drag chain. Reason being, I do drill some holes with the CNC and prefer to use the speed variable spindle for that purpose only, as the dewalt minimum speed is far too high and causes bit to heat quickly, even in wood. I do have it plugged into a SSR, but put a plug on the SSR and the original spindle for easy change over (well, easy except the hassle of aligning everything again).
@@rodneybailleaux9221 Makita RT0701C A buddy 3D printed the mount for me direct replacement for the stock one using the stock mounts and bearings etc. Think it was Thing-a verse or something like that. He just down loaded the file and printed it.
Just bought the dewalt router as a replcement for the spindle on the prover. Thanks for showing how to connect the power so you can still run it like the spindle. Can you still use the ESR 11 collets from the spindle, is there a way to take the chuck off the router and replace with the ESR 11 collets? Lastly, are there any videos / PDF's showing the recomended speeds, feeds, and depths of cut for the 4030 with the dewalt router?
Great video. My Foxalien 4040-XE spindle just failed. I have a Dewalt 611 router and plan to install it. I previously tried to use a 3" long bit with the 300w spindle and it would hit the upper Z limit when doing a safe pass. Can I use 2 1/2" long bits with the Dewalt 611 installed?
Hi Matthew, The example in my video, extension plugs into the wall and the SSR is wired half way down but only to the live wire. The router is then plugged into the extension. It is fairly straight forward but if you google SSR router cnc there are usually wiring diagrams in the images section. I don't really have any information on the current flow, i just made sure it was rated high enough to take it
Sobald das ,,alte,, Anschlusskabel von der Spindel eine Spannung erhält, (zwischen 3-48V) also wenn Sie in der Software den Befehl für die Einschaltung der Spindel betätigen, schaltet das SSR Relais. Somit die alte Leitung von der Spindel bei Relais DC anschliessen, und die Phase 230VAC über den AC Kontakt des Relais schalten.
That is turning into one one really nice CNC machine and I am still thinking about my next purchase and it may be one of these.. Did you think about getting a water cooled spindle? only asking as they they do make less noise
Excellent video James! It looks like the IOT Relay is no longer available.. No problem, I can use an SSR. I intend to build a custom control box. The box would have the SSR and heat sink, plus a motor speed control module to control the speed of the router and also a 2nd receptacle for the dust collector. The idea is that when the router comes on, so does the dust collector. I plan on leaving the wires for the original spindle in place and getting another connector to go to the new box. The power cord for the Dewalt router will hang down from the ceiling like the hose for the dust collector. I want to be able to easily switch back to the original spindle if I ever need to. What do you think?
@@JamesDeanDesigns James, I did look around and I found it, but not from a site I'm familiar with. Also, it seems to be more expensive than I thought it would be.. Based on my personal experience, I am completely fine building the custom box. I think it will be cheaper and do what I want it to. Thanks for the reply!
I have the 4030 v1 I am wanting to use a 1/2 bullnose bit but the only collet it fits is er20. The original router take er11 collet nuts. Is there an adapter? Is there an upgraded router motor that accepts the er20 that would mount on my 4030 and plug into the 2 prong spindle plugin on the power unit ? avoiding the wiring you describe here?
James love your videos, you have taken what is a fairly steep learning curve and made it easy for us rookies. one question as im wanting to mount my dewalt...one question, can i run the power to the hot AC as opposed to using the switch? i dont have a switch handy, but will invest in one shortly.
Thank you very much. You can run your power straight from the wall without the SSR switch, you just have to manually turn the router on before starting a job and then turn off after its finished.
3db difference (70 vs 73) is x2 noise level increase ! It is not just 3db ….. db’s are not liniar , every 3db are x2 increase in noise …. So the router showd actually 4 db increase in noise so it is more than twice lauder than the spindle .
A little confused, I have 3018 prover upgraded to a 40. I have added the table extension kit as well as upgraded the spindle mount to 65mm. My router fits in perfect but did follow the part of connecting the original spindle lead. What happens to the original power supply that plugs into the main board? Currently I have two options use a 500 watt spindle or use a router. Both require some wiring. help
hello can you explain or make a wiring diagram for makita rt I don't know where the wires come from the original spindle, at the beginning you remove them or leave them ?
Damn you have me hooked. I was just about to purchase a Shapeoko 4. What do you think, is the Shapeoko a massive upgrade compared to this or would you recommend the PROVerXL with the DeWalt router? I wouldn't mind saving a ton of cash for bits and material oh and feeding the family too. Great channel btw 👌
Thanks for kind words. I cant give a 100% answer as I've never used a Shapeoko, but one thing I dislike about them is a machine of that size using belts is petty inferior to a screw drive. Laser machines and smaller setups like the FoxAlien 4040-XE are fine but belt drive on bigger machines is generally off-putting for me. The ProverXL is a solid machine, thats why I like it and coupled with the dewal, its brilliant. Don't get me wrong, its not perfect but I don't think any CNC machine is.
@@JamesDeanDesigns Thanks for the great feedback, I think this will definitely be a good upgrade over my 3018. I'll try and purchase it via your affiliate link. Thanks again James 🛠️🛠️🛠️
Great channel thank you. I am a complete newbie so forgive me if I ask a dumb question. Can we fit the Dewalt spindle/router on a 3018. I have the ProVer version.
@@JamesDeanDesigns I have already upgraded to the bigger 4030 area upgrade. Which other upgrades do you think I would need? BTW thanks for the rapid reply.
Hi James, I saw you've put your two bed stepper motors on the front of the machine, where as my machine came with them on the back. I presume you changed this yourself in order to have more space in the enclosure/push the machine back? Was it tricky, any tips, anything to be aware of, or is it just a case os unbolting everything and then bolting them to the front...
Hi James, I am thinking about upgrading from my 60 watt masuter pro. If I use your method and go with the makita router will the current power cable coming from the control box have enough power to run it. I see most people when the upgrade they already have the 300 watt spindle and cable plugged in to the 24 volt input.
I have a question I hooked it up exactly the way you did. But my spendel cord only has two prongs on the cord It doesn't have a ground prong? If not is there a way to ground it
Different regulations in different countries. Yes, you ground anything in theory. I dont think it would be difficult but I wouldn't know what would be deemed the "correct" way
Hi James, great video once again. I have a issue after connecting the SSR wiring and connecting it to a heat shrink when I switch it on after a couple of minutes the SSR blew. I have a Genmitsu PROVer XL 4030. I have checked the power from the original motor power leads and this is over 50vdc. I assume this is the reason why the SSR blew but why has it work on you demonstration? What is your VDC reading on the power leads when switched?
Different SSR will have different ratings, but ultimately what you'll want to do is turn your speed dial on the control box to about half way and this will limit the volts being sent to the SSR. In saying that, you're the second person to tell me about SSR issue in in 24 hours so I'm wondering if there may have been a batch issue 🤔
@@JamesDeanDesigns Hi James, thank you for your reply, I have ordered another SSR and hopefully this will work. I must mention that the power on the control box was turned right up when I started the machine up, this could maybe the issue. I will measure the different current outlets on the terminals . From the minimum speed control to the Max and send this to you. Maybe just a edit of your video just mentioning this if it is found to be the reason, I would never of thought to turn the speed control down but now that you have mentioned this it is logical.
Hi James, I have checked the voltage output and if the power switch on the control panel is half way the voltage is around 25vdc. Which is fine for the SSR, however as you said if the switch is fully turned up the voltage increases to 50.8 VDC which will blow the SSR. I am now waiting for a new SSR and will update you when I have set this up. Thank you for all you help as usual.
I'm not saying there isn't, because someone somewhere will have done it, but what I am saying is its not really worth it. If speed control is important then better going down the VFD spindle route
Hey just like to great work keep up with the good channel. I have a question. I have a foxalien 4040-xe and I'm using Carbide create v7. And no matter what I do I can not run off line. If I use their test files I can. But when I create my Owen gcode it will not work. The only way is to run candle on my laptop. Can you please HELP. thank you
the iot or ssr .. in which port i gotta plug this in??? .. speaking of the masuter pro .... laser ... small spindle or large spindle port ..ill problably go for the IOT relay will run the dust collector on it too and do i need to change any thing in the $$ commands list for the spindle settings
Hi James- What screws did you use to tighten the clamp to hold the dewalt router? The supplied screws to hold the 300w spindle do not thread in? Thank you.
Does any one know how much cutting area you lose due to the router sticking out further. The only way around this would be to move the limit switches to the max position and possibly over hang the spoil board. Or extend it. Unfortunately i do not have the space to do that.
Hello I just got the fox alien masuter 4040 and was looking at upgrading the spindle to a Dewalt router, but I've seen some people saying that's to much for the machine, not sure what they mean by that any thoughts?
I'm assumimg that wiring that extension cord to the SSR relay is like wiring a light switch - I splice the relay into the hot wire, and leave the ground and neutral alone?
I've not measured it with the correct gauge but hardly any. The C beams are really strong and as the machine is less than a meter, there is very little deflection
To switch on your DeWalt spindle, had you considered an automatic load sensing switch, similar to what would be used to turn on a vacuum dust collector when a table or bandsaw is tuned on?
It's ok to get you started and can do a lot of things with it, but ultimately if your machine can handle something bigger then that will be you can go deeper and faster
I have a DeWALT D26200-QS - which looks very similar to DWP611 - but it seems to have some safety feature wich prevents it to spin up when the router's power button i in the ON position and the external power goes from off to on. Has anybody else a similar experience?
Makita did a similar thing on their 702 model. I believe its called anti stop/start technology and sadly is a pain for those who use them in CNC routering. Whilst I suspect there are some differences, there was a video on RU-vid showing how to get around it on the Makita. Does require opening it up so you just need to be careful
I'm confused, you talk about wiring the original spindle into the bottom of the SSR then the router into the top, but then go on to splice an extension cable, which I assumed would be plugged into the mains hence the plug and socket (for the router) and getting power from the original spindle??????
So the splicing of the extension cable is to save splicing the cable on the router... this is purely to avoiding voiding any warranty. The SSR doesn't draw its power from the existing spindle cable, it just uses the signal. Effectively think of it as an on/off switch
@@JamesDeanDesigns thanks, I'm just at the start of making my own cnc, had the mechanical parts for a few years and only just built the frame. I've got 4x nema 24 stepper motors, 4x DM860 Drivers and a 240v dewalt palm router, looking at buying the SSR to use the router, but the description of the wiring confused me...Still does, would I have to run wires from a cnc controller (spindle outputs) to the bottom of the SSR since i don't have a spindle???
@@mickyas1000 essentially yes. The spindle output from the control board is what tells the SSR to turn the router on. The new FoxAlien unit is an easier and faster way but still works on the same principle ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-vEOX8F8dkn0.html
@@JamesDeanDesigns so just to clarify, before I burn the house down, I take the neutral from the 240v mains directly into the router (dewalt 900w palm router), the live from the mains into the SSR then out of the SSR into the router and the bottom 2 terminals on the SSR are connected to the controller 48v power output or 48v spindle output (the controller has both)...so no need for an additional psu?? As I've seen various diagrams showing the SSR being hooked up to 24/48v dc psu's!!!
Hi James can you help I know nothing about cnc machines I do a lot of Woodturning and make lots of wooden boxes with lids and want to start doing some cnc work on the lids and in filing with resin I need something that can cut into hardwood possible to a depth of 25/50 mm was looking at your videos on the genmitsu cnc 4030 it was on offer for about £850 on Amazon but now back up to a grand is this machine capable of that depth? And finally how would I transfer images what would be the best software for it Regards Dave
Hi, Yes the 4030 can do that deep. In terms of taking an image, it depends what type of an image. There are generally 2 types, vectors and raster. Vectors are things like text, logos, usually simpler shapes. Raster images are things like photos. Vectors are easy to convert and machine, raster images are harder
This has to be done manually on the router. The dewalt 611/262 speeds are about: Setting / RPM 1 - 16,200 2 - 17700 3. - 19450 4. - 21100 5. - 23500 6. - 26900
Hi James, Easy to follow video. I have a strange problem, the router pulses, slows down, and speeds up when connected via the SSR. It keeps a steady speed if I plug it in directly and manually turn it on. I've checked all the connections, thinking it might be a loose wire, but all are fine. Any thoughts on what the problem might be?
Make sure the manual power dial on the control box is turned up to full if you have one. If not then make sure the your RPM signal is at full which basically means the RPM value you're sending out equal to or higher than your $30 setting. Hope that makes sense
Thanks for your help. I don't quite understand what you are saying about the RPM signal? I use UGS, would that tell me my RPM signal output? I understand about the $30 setting and I will check that to make sure it is at least the speed of the router. @@JamesDeanDesigns
Thanks James, I finally worked it out. Obvious when I thought about it, the file was configured to the original spindle specs on my Sainsmart 4040, changed the spindle speed in the gcode and all good.
Hi James, big thanks for all your videos they have been invaluable. I have upgraded my spindle to the D26200 Dewalt and very happy (apart from loosing a bit of the work area). I have some 1/4" -> 1/8" bit adapters/converters for the bulk of my bits but I do have some 6mm ones which I have bought over the past few months from sellers saying they were 1/4". Now I do have the SainSmart set of collets but do you know if these are OK in the Dewalt collet nut ? I would have tried before asking but I cannot get the collet out of the collet nut on the Dewalt (I do not want to damage it with brute force).
Sadly not, the Dewalt collets are unique to them. you can buy different collect to fit the dewalt but they are not cheap, or not in the UK anyway. Ive just had a similar thing and ended up just buying new 1/4 bits instead but I only had a couple of 6mm bits
@James Dean Designs Thanks James. I have actually found a Dewalt 8mm replacement collet/nut with a Trend 8mm/6mm adapter which means I can use some 8mm ones I have as well. Not too badly priced @ £23.12+VAT inc delivery from FFX.
Hello James, Thank for the very nice videos. They have been a great help! But I have a question. The power output for the original 300W DC spindle is very likely to be PWM. This means the SSR will probably also switch at that rate. Does it influence the Router (speed - power) ?
A 3dB increase in volume is the same as doubling the sound intensity. Unfortunately our brains won't perceive the increase until it's a 10dB increase (which equates to 10 x the sound.
Sorry, don't know why you'd say that... He's measuring and talking about dB SPL or "pressure", which is what most people do when talking about sound or noise levels. Basically an RMS voltage from a pressure measuring device (microphone). That's why the meters are marked "SPL" : Sound Pressure Level. 6dB (6.02 really since it's a log20 base) is a doubling in SPL, and you need about 10dB SPL to get a percieved doubling in loudness. You're absolutely right in that 3db is a doubling in "intensity", but that's not the unit an SPL meter uses - and it's not the unit you usually talk about when comparing sound/noise levels.
Hello James! I know that you had a video on here for upgrading the Genmitsu 4040-pro with a makita RT0701C with the solid state trick....I can't seem to find i anymore on here. Is it still available? Thanks!
Hi, I think you may be getting videos mixed up. So this is the one wiring in the SSR. On the 4040 Pro review I should running it with the Makita but not wiring it into the SSR.
@@JamesDeanDesigns Yes, that's probably the case. I was still able to use the information from that video and applied it to mine. Worked out great! Thank you!
It's not a task I've done before but you need software capable of doing it. I think Carveco Make+ or Vectric Aspire can do it, also Meshlab I think but not 100% sure
You can get collets off amazon or ebay but if its just for 1/8th bits then search for a 1/8th collet sleeve. They are a lot cheaper than buying a full collet insert
Hello James, I have a Foxalien Masuter pro and I tried to attach a Makita R0700C and I did the wiring using the SSR following your steps but it didn’t start at all. Is there any advice you can give. Thank you 🙏🏼
If you wired it exactly how I have in the video, and have the same rated SSR then you should be fine. I know a few who have done it on the Masuter Pro and its been fine. If you're on Facebook then maybe send me some photos
@@JamesDeanDesigns Thank you for taking the time to response, I did the wiring exactly the same as you did, but now after watching few videos on RU-vid I believe the SSR I bought is damaged because the small light didn’t light. I will go and get a new SSR and try again. Sure I will send you few pictures when I do the wiring again tomorrow. Thank you again for your time and help 🙏🏼
Very little to be honest and I now advise people get a 1.5kw spindle instead. The only thing is a 1.5kw usually needs to run from a VFD which is another learning curve
I believe there should be a connector where the cable from the spindle goes. And then you plug the other devices into the top such as your spindle and vacuum
Hi Robert. So how is the IOT Relay working out for you? I'm interested in getting one, also but I do not know how to hook it up or anything. I'd appreciate any help you can give me. Thanks.
@@JoeLazzara Hi Joe I haven't upgraded yet because I having some issues with homing and soft limits ( I think) but I got a reply from James Dean that should help you out: James Dean "I believe there should be a connector where the cable from the spindle goes. And then you plug the other devices into the top such as your spindle and vacuum"
I know this is an old question but I also purchased the IoT and am having trouble getting it to control my router. I attached the spindle wires into the port on the side of the IoT but do not get an "active" light nor does the router turn on (the "+" and "-" spindle wires are attached to the matching ports). I've tried sending the m3 s10000 command but still haven't had any luck. Also, the router is plugged into the "normally off" outlets. Is this correct? Any help would be deeply appreciated.
I'm replying to my own thread in case someone else runs into a similar problem. So, as I suspected, it was complete user error (read - user stupidity). While I had the device wired correctly, I couldn't get it to work. When I read the voltage coming off the input wire going into the IoT, there wasn't enough to switch the device on. After fiddling with the controller box, it dawned on me to try the speed controller knob... and of course it was turned all the way down. A simple flick of the wrist and my problem was solved. In my defense, I never used the stock spindle but had upgraded to the DW611 upon assembling the CNC. Still... stupid is as stupid does. Hope this helps someone else in the future!
I would advise against it. May be ok for a short job but usually as the power drops in the battery, so does the torque and that's not ideal as it will likely cause a job to fail
I don't cover it in this video but if you have a look through my channel there are various spoil board and tramming videos which are all about achieving this
Okay, I did this with a Masuter Pro, and a different brand router. I am having a couple problems: When I use the SSR relay, the spindle works only intermittently - spinning up and down - when the 60w plug is used, and not at all when the 300w is used, but it works perfectly if I plug the router into the wall and manually switch it on. And, this new 65mm router shaft apparently doesn't play well the positions of my kill switches, so do I need to move them?
Oh, wait. Problem 2 solved. I'm stupid. I had a little case of bits on the table between the table foot and the tram l, blocking the latter from reaching the limit switch. Sigh.
Glad you have managed to solve them. Some SSR have a minimum and maximum power range from the original input so on the speed dial I usually have it set to about 70%
I tried it again, and was getting the slow-fast-slow-fast behavior again. But that was when I was using the spindle test button on the offline controller. But when I sent the job from the offline controller, the speed stayed steady. Weird.
The SSR is to allow you to turn your router on via your software. You do t have to use one but you need to start your router manually before starting the job, and then stop it manually at the end
@@JamesDeanDesigns Thank you for your quick response By the way, if you want to switch between 1/4 axis and 1/8 axis, what kind of method is appropriate? I want to know your operation
How did you get your DWP611 with the vertical power cord? It gets mentioned all over the place but there seems to be nothing on Thingiverse for making it on your own.
This is not the DWP611, its actually the 26200 which is the european version. Essentially the same but just one or two minor differences like the power cord.
@@JamesDeanDesigns That is a shame. I have already designed a part myself to re-route the power cord though, so it's not all bad. Thanks for the reply!
Hi, any concerns with continuous use for hours with the Dewalt? It seems the spindles are designed to do just that but the routers normal use is more intermittent.
Routers have brushes, which wear down. The longer they run the hotter they get and can wear down faster. Proper spindles do not so can run longer. I say proper spindles because the one's on smaller machines still have brushes but the larger ones you use with a VFD do not. Something likenthe dewalt is still meant to be rated for upto 100 hours though
When I cut outside path on my 4030 it gives me perfect dimensions, when I clear pockets out my dimensions always come up .017in short of what its supposed to be, do you have any idea on why it could be?
.017 is pretty darn precise for woodworking, however to tune this, what you need to do is calibrate the extruder steps. This is cross knowledge from 3d printing, but basically one of the gcode configs you can set in candle controls how many steps = 1 inch, mm etc. You can set this gcode parameter to adjust how far the steppers move relative to what the gcode tells them to move. Google "calibrate esteps" for the formula to calculate the value. For how to apply it google to find a list of all the gcode parameters in candle.