@@Drewgystew lol 95% of people enjoying any US military content would sign up for the SS and sign their kids up for the fascist youth asap if and when the opportunity arises. Not one of ya have a speck of the integrity you all steal from previous generations and lie and hypocritically and dishonestly play at as an excuse to hold yourself up in your mind over people who just want to live without fighting and killing
*I live in Italy, so I can't keep and bear any kind of combat rifle, but I served for one year (once it was mandatory) in the Army, my weapon was a M-1 Garand inherited from the American after the second world war (they were a mere gift...), and everything in the aiming system was like shown in this video. I loved my rifle. I had excellent results, during our training, with my Garand. It was a heavy, rugged, very accurate and extremely powerful weapon. It was a 7.62 NATO Caliber, full metal jacket. We had just a few occasion of training with rifles and machine guns, but it was fine. It was liberating, for me. And I got real satisfaction in shooting with the magic Garand. This video brings me back to 1986, when I was in the Army. Sweet memories...*
@@MattyB7 "Put your sword away. Those who live by the sword, die by the sword." If you truly believe "magic" is sinful--as if the innocuous, colloquial "magic" referenced by the Italian gentleman above is the same as the occult magic you're likely referring too, which it's not--then you have no business having an internet in firearms or weapons training. Your saved playlists are sinful, jackass. Sell your guns. Put down your sword. Turn the other cheek. Be a pacifist like your savior asked you to be.
@@lanceamadantebonife3987 I really don't know. I just remember the caliber, anyway it was NATO standard, they told at the time. We use to call those shots "7.62 NATO", but it must be told that italians are "approx".
It brings me back to death by power point for a week, read by some SSG who barely graduated high school at a 5th grade reading level. First formation at 4am to draw weapons at 6; to wait for motor movement at 9; for the range to open at 10; rush through zero, and qual; just to hurry up and wait at staging point to get back to to post....
Ft Jackson 1982, when the Army was real, not this BS when these little Bitches get there feelings hurt and pull out a my pussys hurt card and the DI gets his career fucked! Pathetic!
This course took me from having never held a rifle to Air Force Marksmanship Medal in one hour of training. The M-16 is the finest weapon ever created.
In days of yore, in musketry, the soldier was taught to take 'a sight' on a target. He was also taught to take a 'fine sight'. An Irish soldier was once quizzed by his instructor as to what a 'fine sight' was. "Two dinners on the one plate", came the reply
This series is excellent. The one basic that I might add would be to mention the effect lighting has on the very excellent post and aperture sights common to U.S. service rifles. Shooting on a bright and sunny day vs twilight or overcast. The effect glare can have on the front and rear sights, the importance of blackening the front post (a bic lighter works great) and shading the rear aperture. The ball cap worn by the soldier in the latter range portion of this series does an excellence job of that. and maybe mention the importance of glasses, especially if the shooter has an astigmatism or presbyopia and to avoid the use of bifocal lenses if possible. Use a good "distance" only pair. or a distance pair reduced by .25 - .5 diopter. I prefer clear glass as the photochromic ones will often darken under overcast and result in a dim sight picture.
OMG, THANK YOU!!! I recently built my first AR-15 in 5.56x45mm NATO, and it's also my first rifle ever owned. I've plinked with air rifles and .22LRs before, and fired a handful of rounds out of a .30-06 bolt action, but never a 5.56, and I was always using a scope. Thanks to these videos, I got my irons sighted in correctly in about 10 rounds (accidentally rotated the front post the wrong way at first). Once zeroed, I was consistently pinging the 12" steel gong at 200yds, the 18" gong at 300yds, and even maintaining about a 60% hit rate on the 18" gong at 450yds. I still have a lot of practice to do, as I've only put 190 rounds down range in 2 days. Focusing intently on the front sight post has even gotten rid of my blinking when firing, and it also got rid of my 6 o'clock flinch with my pistol. My pistol is an Astra A-100 in .40S&W, which is like a Sig P226, but all steel weighing in at 34oz when empty. I was having a terrible time hitting my targets past 7yds, but after applying the fundamentals outlined in this series, I now have 4" groups at 15yds, and I even managed to get within a foot of an 18" gong at 250yds! With a goddamn .40S&W out of a 3.5" barrel, lol! The super far shots were just for fun, and I continue to train at 7yds with my pistol. I may even take my AR-15 to the high power range which starts at 500yds, and ends at 1,000yds. Not sure how effective 5.56x45mm is at those distances, but I can't afford anything in the .30 caliber group at this time, so 5.56 will have to do. Thank you again! You guys helped me greatly, and my shooting thoroughly impressed the combat vets at the range! The other guys with ARs were using super expensive scopes and red dots, but weren't rocking the accuracy and rapid long range target acquisition I was with a $45 rear A3 carry handle sight and cheap-ola $7 A3 style front sight. I plan to get even better! I salute you, USAMU!
I like to practice my pistol skills at 25 yards. I can constantly hit the bullseye or close to it. I think I could do trick shooting if I could afford the ammo
No it’s not wtf 😬 this is why their dumbazz can’t keep literal war secrets off of discord. They’re marketing to trans people & putting military training on RU-vid. USA is fallen & we can blame no one but ourselves
Unusually for a Brit, I was brought up around guns from an early age - by the time I was in my late teens, I had shot dozen of air guns, 22's, Lee Enfields, Bren guns, smg's, 12 & four ten gauge shotguns etc etc etc. However I have never killed anyone to my certain knowledge !!
I learned all of this by the time I was 12 years old. I started even younger. I grew up in a time and place where I could carry and shoot my rifle pretty much anytime I wanted. It was a ruger 10-22 and I never cleaned it until I forgot it on my grandparents patio over night and it was covered in rust and I freaked out and my uncle showed me how to oil and clean a firearm. Looking back that riffle was unstoppable. I don't remember it jamming up or having any issues. I might go buy another one
Boycott Ruger. Buy a clone, most of which are superior. Bill Ruger personally walked the halls of Congress promoting magazine size limits and that's a significant part of why millions of Americans now have magazine bans.
Why exactly would one need to be so rich to operate a firearm? I'm fairly poor but carry and use a rifle multiple times a week. Protection of livestock and a need to eat meat are the reasons.
@@charlesmiller7848 all the land I used to have access to is now leased to out of state deer, duck and turkey hunters. When I was a kid we had no deer or turkey and you could hunt miles of private property. Rabbits, squirrel, quail, trapping and running coon dogs. No more of that, LEASED NO TRESPASSING. Property Under Video Surveillance.
Being former USAF Security Forces, this video takes me back to our weapons training days. I got Expert Marksman with the multiple weapons device, partly because I grew up on a farm and was already a Marksman before I left for the military. Partly because I had great instructors, one of whom is in his 80's now, and he was at our police reunion in 2019 before covid hit. Emotional reunion. I'm so glad you loaded this series of videos.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I haven't heard him talking about rotational misalignment. The gun is zeroed to a certain distance (or you are using an adjustable distance sight) so the barell will point slightly upwards from your aiming point to account for bullet drop. If you rotate the gun to one side on the lenghtwise axis, then even with a perfect sightpicture, your impacts will go to the side you rotated, so you should always keep the vertical sightline parallel to gravity
It’s called cant and all that’s important if the rifle is canted is that it be consistent at the zeroed distance. That’s the rub and thus a rifle without an adjustable butt may need to use muscle to square the rifle if a canted condition cannot be made consistent. It is a particular problem shooting the Service Rifle in sitting position for some. At any rate, when the rifle is canted some windage is added to elevation when adjusting sight to extended distance.
To each his own on placement of the trigger finger. I call his method "Choking the Trigger" when using the finger section next to the palm. I mark each of the joint sections on your finger from the tip as 1st pad, middle section as 2nd pad, the section next to your palm 3rd pad. I take an ink pen and make three equidistant lines on the 1st pad. Dividing the 1st pad into 1/4ths. So the tip of the finger is zero, next is 25%, then 50%, 75% the crease between the first and second section is 100%. I then place the 25% line on the Apex of the trigger. May have to move your finger slightly right or left to pull the trigger straight back. You know how much during dry fire practice. Everybody is different so you will have to work it out yourself. Insure there is no side pressure. Just straight back. The only part of the finger that touches any part of the gun is that 25% mark and where the palm/finger joint is located. You should see daylight elsewhere on the finger. Does this technique work for me? I shoot sub-MOA with my rifle. Used both single stage and two stage triggers. The single stage trigger has a spongy feel when "choking the trigger." Two stage triggers are not as bad. Always have low left impact hits when choking triggers. Never on first pad.
I run an ALG QMS trigger group in my AR-15. Nothing fancy, just a smoother milspec. About a 5.5lb pull. I took the advice of a combat vet who now teaches long range shooting near me, and that advice is to pull the trigger in a relaxed, natural grip. Since people's fingers aren't identical, he said the important part is that you don't clench up your grip, and to pull, NOT squeeze the trigger. He said telling people to "squeeze" often leads to clenching or "choking" the trigger and grip. The advice is pretty sound, as I don't even think about the trigger when shooting. I just point at my target, and smoothly pull my finger back. Doesn't matter where the trigger is on my finger, though for me, I think the natural contact point is between the second and third knuckle, the base of the finger being the first knuckle. I'm consistently hitting an 18" steel gong at 300yds with standard A3 irons, and regularly hitting an 18" steel gong at 450yds, despite being a relatively new shooter. Probably best not to think about the trigger, as long as you are consistent in your shots. I did have a flinch and blinking at first, but that went away after about 100 rounds, as I got used to the noise and recoil. I should also note that I shoot for combat accuracy, not competition accuracy. My eyes can't even see sub-1 MOA with irons (especially since I'm focusing intently on the front post anyway, causing the target to blur). I shoot well enough to hit an enemy at 450yds with my irons, so sub-1 MOA isn't really important until shooting at very long range, or competitively. I'd rather get positive hits with rapid target acquisition than taking forever to get perfect shots on a single target when there are many targets. The range I shoot on has steel gongs at 200, 250, 300, 350, 400, and 450 yards, and I love having someone randomly call out which of the 6 targets to shoot next, and see how quickly I can get a positive hit. I'm a bit slow at the moment at about 3-4 seconds per target, but I'm a new shooter, and will get faster with practice. 🤠
Pulling the trigger with the tip of the finger is appropriate for classic style stocks like that on the 1903 Springfield. Most, when holding an M16 or M4, will find their finger pulling the trigger with the middle pad, as the weapon is gripped differently. Long range shooting is partially about trigger pull; consistency, stability and body positioning is more important than gripping a rifle unnaturally in order to adhere to a standard on a different platform, ie: pulling an M4 trigger with the finger tip because that is how the 1903 Springfield is held. Holding the trigger to the rear and feeling the reset improves accuracy and indicates malfunctions as well.
No, he's right. These army training videos need to stop trying to win an AAM for editing. The information is central. These slick tricks distract from it.
With red dots on any gun and pistol iron sights (any irons further from my face like AK sights), I do WAY better focusing on the target instead of the sights. I got a perfect pistol score in 2 federal academies so I am no world champion but I'm doing something right. I only focus on sights with AR style irons or magnified scopes.
What hasn’t been mentioned is keeping the rifle perfectly still between shots to maintain a tight grouping. The problem I have is the rifle barrel will drift or wave around. Especially unsupported standing
It's not a problem but the nature of firearms. Different weapons recoil differently. Consistent shot placement comes from consistent training with your particular weapon. You will become more accurate as your skill increases from experience. The weapon is just a machine doing the same thing repeatedly.
This may seem stupid to some especially those in the US who can legally own guns. But I am 25 from the UK and this was very informative since I have an active interest in the subject matter (and military coming from a family who has served) and I use this for both VR and Airsoft. Worked perfectly for me and added to the experience especially in VR where I have moving targets unlike airsoft where I am just shooting cans etc. something I need to ask though and maybe I missed it. How do you focus your eyes quick and align the iron sights mid fight? Its a tricky thing for me because when I lower my pistol for example then raise it to my eye to aim, it takes me a while to align and focus the sights as its kind of blurry. But issue is in a game example the enemy has already shot me once or twice by the time I can do it. So what advice would anyone give for quickly raising a weapon up and focusing and aligning sights fast?
The simple answer is it will take time. The same reason somebody has to learn to swing nunchucks very slowly so as not to hit themselves, and over the course of countless hours over months and years, can simply pick up a pair and move them so fast you'd think they'd be black and blue by the time they're done. Put simply, the more you do it the slow way that gets you shot a bunch, ensuring that you bring them up accurately, eventually, the quicker you'll be able to do it accurately. Focus on accuracy, and speed will follow. Patience with definitely help. Good luck, partner.
I dunno if anyone will see this but assuming you have a weapon where you can’t get a proper cheek weld due to the way the optics are mounted (it’s done in a way to preserve the original condition of a historical piece and the stock can’t be modified either) is there a technique for achieving consistent eye position? I’ve just mentally developed a position on a different part of my jaw but watching this it makes me feel it’s not an ideal technique
I had been taught and always heard that with optics focus should be on the target. This instructs focus on the reticle. Does this apply to non-magnified optics like red dots and holos too? Looking 'past' the reticle with focus on the target feels so much better - much more natural and less hectic especially when transitioning between targets at different distances.
This should not apply period. If you have a good scope it should be adjusted via the diopter to have both the reticle and target in focus. With a red dot the whole point of the bright red dot is so you can target focus with the dot being layered into your vision per se. I saw the thumbnail of the video and immediately called bs. That being said if you have irons you are relegated to this technique because lining up irons on a target farther than 50 yards is actually necessary.
@@AV-nl9gc. There’s not even a hint of bs here. It’s an outstanding presentation of the principles of marksmanship as applied to the M16A4 and M4. The session here is a portion of instruction given to students attending SDM, TTT, and SAFS Training Events which are delivered by the Army Marksmanship Unit. The instruction produces results.
Hello, may I have your permission to reupload your videos with Chinese subtitle, so I can share them with my friends on some Taiwanese forums, FB clubs, and BBS sites. We people in Taiwan now are trained for only 4 months, so most of us don't even know how to be good shooters, even if we did go through the whole training.
Tip 1: Do not zero your rifle with the front sight post centered on target. Use the corner of your front sight post as the aim point. Naturally you need to zero the rifle accordingly to the corner you choose. Still need your sight picture to be aligned properly. This will give you a tighter shot group as well as allowing you to see more of the target you are aiming at. In basic, I took 11 fellow soldiers who just couldn't qualify, taught them this one thing and every single one doubled their hit rate or better, 3 even scored the highest rating with 37, 38, and 38 out of 40, just from this one change alone. Tip 2: alignment of your sight picture doesn't need to be centered, it just needs to always be the same as what you zeroed with. Centering often requires estimating the center which is inaccurate, especially when your adrenaline is going. Instead, look at the front sight post with side fringes, and line up your rear sight hole to fit the front sight at key points that are easy to reproduce. For example, I would make the circle of the rear sight sit level on the bottom of the front sight and with the tips of the front sight fringes just touching the circle. This made it easy to have the same sight pictures every time. As long as your sight picture is always the same as it was when you zeroed, it'll work.
First, sight alignment must be consistent, centering the tip of the front sight post in the rear sight aperture. This is important since Inconsistency creates angular error which increases with distance. Next, focusing on front sight, the shooter adjusts natural point of aim to place the tip of front sight to center mass of target while maintaining sight alignment. The center mass hold must be selected over other holds for bullet strikes to hit various size and shape targets at distances served by the battle sight zero and bullet drop compensation functions. Of course a sight picture or hold can be off set to account for wind or distance.
@@charlesludwig9173 Absolutely correct. I'm not countering that at all. What I'm talking about is what part of the front sight post you are seeing as the point where the bullet is going to land. Instead of centering the front sight post with the idea that the bullet should land where the middle of the top of the sight post is your bullet aiming point, instead zero the rifle with the corner of the front sight post as the point where you want the bullet to land. Then, when you do as you just mentioned and have a consistent sight picture and aiming to land a bullet at the center of the target, the sight post will block vision of only 1/4 of the target instead of half, thus maintaining better awareness of the target and with the corner being a lot easier to aim than estimating the center of the sight post your shots will be more accurate towards your intended aim point.
What I do when shooting is focus on the target rather than the crosshair and move the crosshair to the point of focus(this is for unsupported) reduces fatigue and is rather accurate
@@Dan-yk6sy In skeet shooting it seems pretty common to train to focus on the target, so much so that the first time I went clay shooting the gun that I was given had the front bead sawn off of it, the instructor said a lot of beginners miss all their shots because they focus on the sight too much.
I have a question and it may be a stupid one. In firearms training - it is always said the sight profile should be clear and the target blurry. In archery (modern recurve), the opposite is taught: blurry sight, clear target. Now besides the obvious (different instrument), is there any reason for the difference? Is it because the "rear sight" (the bow string) for archery is closer to the eye?
I've been shooting a recurve bow for about 2 months, so take this with a grain of salt... There is a ton of different methods for shooting a recurve, one being "instinctive" (I think). I've attempted several different methods, but instinctively shooting the bow, I have the best accuracy. I've heard that it's sort of like throwing a football. You don't focus on the football when you throw it, you focus on the target. It's instinctive. I think the difference is that there is nothing "instinctive" about shooting a rifle, thus the reason why focusing on the reticle versus the target is better. Watcha think?
@@PBSTwo this....actually kinda makes sense. it's inline with this (ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Y-RnSsP3ix8.html). This is so far the only other resource i have found that touches the topic. I still intend to dig further, for the sheer curiousity of it.
