Also thank you for being the only person who didn't flood RU-vid with more goddamn Chinese printer reviews and instead did something useful, gave realistic experiences, and gave a recommendation based on viewers needs and not affiliate link kickbacks.
Except when your review is "BEST 3D PRINTER EVER" and encourage people to buy using your affiliate link, when you don't truthfully review the printer and cover negative aspects, that's when affiliate links are bad because they're promoting dishonesty in order to make profit. There are heaps of GearBest paid reviews like this, they are notorious for it. The site even deletes negative reviews so you can't make an objective decision on what is good and what isn't. If everything is the best, then nothing is the best. I would never get anything from GearBest for this reason.
You are one of the few pointing out the issues with the wheels failing after a short time and other things, GREAT! Auf Wiedersehen und bis zum nächstem Mal.
I have seen this mentioned for this printer and another so I suspect the wheels are not really Delrin and are probably a Chinese OEM company who lied to these companies about the material used for the wheels.
I don't know what makes you think high-quality POM bearing tire will not degrade eventually, and quite visibly after just a short time? POM doesn't have a lot of compliance to speak of, it's super rigid. Aluminium surface cannot be perfect, in fact since it's anodised, it's actually guaranteed to be pretty abrasive on a microscopic level. It's a sponge of corundum on its surface, one of the hardest minerals! And you want your Delrin/POM tire to hold up being rolled against it for miles upon miles... that's basically backwards, if anything, think about the railroad tire: the tire is hard, the rail is soft, that's how it's supposed to be.
That may be but I have ran into some really nasty Delrin material from China so couple that with some really low cost/quality Aluminum extrusions you can say bye bye tires.
Thanks - Enjoyed the video. I am currently using a CR-10 for large prints and a little HIC (Ender) for smaller prints. I put the CR-10 (400x3) in a Grow Tent (on a cushioned table) and enclosed the little HIC in his own little box - What a difference! They heat up much better and I can store reels and supplies (JUGS of the new elmers- AMazing holding power). I quickly realized that Both machines Must have a RepRap Champion upgraded aluminum extruder filament drive to 'push' (and retract) with any consistency when there's any heat on the bed. The factory plastic version can’t stay rigid and losses tension. I also attached a 12v cooling fan under the extruder motor because the weak motor gives up with extended service and head (from the bed). Even the better motor would benefit. The fan is set up to downdraft towards the bed and cools the motor dramatically. I could not even touch it before! I must also offer some small advice (let’s face it- trial and error is the norm for the human race so criticizing other’s for (perceived) mistakes is like hitting yourself upside the head. But I digress ;) while I digest - In reference to your nozzle: the distance that it extends beyond the bottom of the heated block with keep it from staying hot consistently, or possibly even reaching 240c +? A 3-D print veteran informed me that Brass, iron and steel [nozzles] carry heat so vastly different that these minor changes can cause SO many issues and even clog your nozzle and turn a spool of filament into an ugly nest a vulture wouldn’t crap in. Sorry - I‘m a little to familiar and emotional about that reality. I now have a web cam that looks down on my extruder motor as the filament feeds into the tube - paranoia). Cam saved me before I added the cooling fan to the extrude motor. I also had bolt cross thread issues with one nylon wheel. I also have had success by using the slightest amount of white lithium grease on the edges of the wheels and at top of the Z-axis screws inside the plastic retainer blocks (they still have not worn). I have printed full-size complex helmets and detailed human skulls in one piece with the CR-10, one print was 124 hours. But eventually it failed miserably and I lost much Much time working out these problems and hope these help you and other Makers Builders and Creators. Try these if you have issues. But get your nozzle closer to the block, enclosing your machine (with some ventilation) will help stabilize your temps and your nozzle may retain the heat. Truly $30 us. Saved my sanity. Happy printing everyone - southwestjeff *May you never awake - completely engulfed in a web of filament
Great comment! I'm keeping it fondly on my desktop for future reference! My CR-10 (first printer) is arriving in about 30-45 days(15 according to BangGood but I live in Brazil and our customs take forever to release the parcels). Continuing my uncalled for whining, I'm paying 715USD for the CR10, because customs will tax all imported things in 60%. So I have to mod the ship out of my CR-10 to make it worth the price I'm paying. Still super looking forward to it, though =D
the failing wheels is either you got some bad ones or they are too tight. I have over 2000 hours on my CR-10 and no appreciable wear on the wheels. I beat the snot out of the little bugger :-) well I guess its not little ehh :-) and thank you again for the Anet E10 shroud WHAT a difference that makes!! fantastic.
i never had problems with my CR-10 or others i know. Whole forums are happy with their CR-10 and most of them are total beginners in 3D-printing! I dont like this review. Its only a payed review and he was searching what he can review to make also minus points to let it look like a honest review!
I totally agree with you. I've recently got a CR10 4S and it was a straight forward printing with great result without any change in parameters which I'm a beginner in the 3D printing world.
this happens because the wheels are too tight. I got an ender 3 recently and had the same problem. Most probably this happens because the parts are not perfect so there is an error, and since I doubt that they calibrate the kits before selling them this is a common problem. Very easy fixable, just locate the screw that is responsible for how tight the wheels are and adjust the wheels, make sure that you tight everything back after finishing or you will have problems with the prints.
Thank you for pointing out the problem with the fan blowing on the nozzle instead of the printed part. I see this problem on a lot of 3d printers and it is a big weakness in the design. I need to fix mine like you did, great thinking Stefan 👍
I have made an insulation below the heating bed. That makes a big difference. Also insulation for the top, Before I switch on the printer the noozle needs to be driven up on the z-axis. Before the print starts, I take away the top insulation. Both changes save a lot of time. Furthermore you need and I think thats is a must have, you have to secure the USB cable from shaking in the control box or you face nasty time outs. I designed a holder and never had any problem since then with time outs. I print with a Raspberry PI server. Super nice stuff. This gives me the chance to heat both bed a nozzle parallel and not one after the other, beside all the other goodies a Raspberry has. I also put the printer on 4 sqaush balls to reduce the printing noise. Also the stepper motors are mounted on anti vibration rings. You should find the information on either the german or english FB groups. Summery for me, this was an excellent investment and the printer is a 1A choice.
Very interesting video and it is great that you tried a bigger nozzle and provided the settings - thanks for it! But I do not agree in your comparison with Prusa MK2: I have exakt same setup (Mk2+CR-10) but in my opinion the CR-10 is better in every point. To get in details: 1) Prusa Mk2 makes much more noise (this is solved in MK2S and Mk3 I think) 2) better quality of whole build of CR-10 3) electronics is more save at CR-10: the heatbed connector is just plugged in at Prusa which caused smoke and burning like on cheap Chinese kit printers ... also electronic box is really small at MK2. 4) bigger build volume at Cr-10 as you pointed out 5)Cr-10 is much cheaper ... you can buy 2-3 for one Prusa 6) building a Mk2 is similar to that cheap Chinese kits like A8 and needs around 10 hours and buying it fully assembled is more expensive - not good! 7) terrible hotend fan cable - this is solved at Mk3. The quality of prints is similar for both printers. So the Cr-10 is far better also for beginner than a Prusa Mk2. Also I want to get into two aspects 8) yes heating needs around 5 minutes but compared to a print which needs like 1 to 100 hours this is nothing 9) auto level at Prusa also needs annoying time.... a feature which is nice but not really needed. 10) Prusa has got higher masses on X-axis because of direct extruder not the CR-10. I also could add some more points to the list but the Prusa is good only for multi material in my opinion. Also I would not go for the Mk3... some small improvements and there is also CR-10S. For your CR-10 I recommend second Z-axis upgrade ... it costs not much and assembly needs around 10 minutes.
CR 10 S is my only printer, I was a beginner 2 years ago when I bought it ... Problems: 1. high noise of motors, fans. Solution: Octopus v1.1 board with KINGPRINT TMC2209 V1.2 Motor Stepper Drivers for motor Sounds , and fans changing to Noctua NF-A4x20 FLX and Noctua NF-A4x10 FLX In addition to mounting this board, I also made a custom case that fits exactly perfectly under the printer, only 7 cm high 2. The PTFE tube must be replaced with Bowden Tube PTFE XS Series or something much better to prevent the filament from blocking. As a conclusion Stefan, you are very right, for a beginner it is a headache, but only with difficulty you learn everything. P.S. I forgot to mention ... for leveling the bed BL TOUCH definitely !!!! because the end stops it has installed, for Z , will no longer be correct after 200-300 hours of operation. Happy printing guys!
I like your idea on running controlled experiments to figure out the correct printing parameters, good stuff! I will be doing that in the future for my new printer for sure
If you are new to 3D printing like me! Get a Cr-10! I have one and it is a great printer!!! People who are not new should also try it because it is better then most printers. Devan from Make Anything has 2 Cr-10 3d printers because it is his favorite out of all of his! And he has at least 20 printers!! Sorry if this was a little long I just wanted to inform you that the Cr-10 is great for everyone!
I agree, the cr-10 was my first printer. It worked great out of the box. I havent had any jams and It prints very well. Iv had problay over 500 hours on it and I havent had 1 well wear out or anything.
I have an Anet A8. And probably 80% of the time I have been designing and printing upgrades etc. 20% was other stuff and now I don't know what to print anymore. lol! (other than dozen of 3D Benchys) It was a great journey to actually "build" a 3D printer. I imagine having a CR-10 as my first printer would have been boring, personally. lol. But maybe one day I will get a CR-10 or similar. Just because..
You can get up to .8mm genuine nozzles for the v6, but I've actually used an aftermarket 1.0mm nozzle. That thing spits out prints at warp speed, and the print quality can actually be quite good, with a lot of tuning of course.
@@RalphV I took the 0.2mm nozzle that it came with and drilled it out to 1.0mm and it works great. Especially on spiral mode, you can do huge parts very quickly. I use 0.5mm layer thickness at 30mm/s for nearly flawless quality, and coat with XTC-3D epoxy to smooth out the layer lines.
Could you share your profiles for printing with 0.8 mm nozzles please? (Layer height, retraction, speed, temp etc)..trying to get good results with the Creality S5 with a 0.8 nozzle.
Im curious Thomas, do you have Cura settings for the .8mm nozzle that have created quality prints using PETG or PLA? Im struggling with my .8mm nozzle on a CR-10 and experiencing a lot of ghosting and "stitch" marks at the seam.
One of the best CR10 reviews on YT. To many reviewers don't talk about the warts, but more likely they just don't spend the time with the printer to learn the warts before reviewing it. They just toss out a review and that's it. Thank you CNC Kitchen.
Could you publish your profile for 0.8 mm nozzle on the CR10 if possible? Working on getting good results with the CR10 S5, this would be much appreciated!
On my CR10 S4 (400mm bed) it is even slower to heat the bed. Printing ABS is a no-go as it maxes out at about 78C and goes no further. An enclosure may help, but they definitely need to make sure in future they sort out the warped beds, unsupported bed heating cable and beef up the bed heater.
Andy Midd I'm thinking of adding some nichrome wire to the bottom of my bed to help with the heat up times although it might consume a bit more power but it's fine with me. also on the nozzle, since I have access to a lathe, I'm thing of cutting some thread like groves onto which I could also wind some more nichrome wire around(lots of wire, I know lol) and hook it up to the wires coming from the heater
I had a similar problem with my 210x270mm heat bed. I used the heated bed wires to drive a solid state relay that pushed 15v into the heated bed. I now get to 110c in about 4 min without an enclosure. At first this was only a patch with a spare power supply, but it has worked for me for over 1 1/2 years with no problems so I think that I'll keep using it.
I was surprised to see that on the CR-10S the heatbed cable is attached firmly now using 1 of the upgrades found on thingiverse. The next thing they should improve heatbed insulation to heat the bed up to higher temp in a reasonable time. I've order heatbed insulation but haven't received it yet. There are vids here on RU-vid where they try out heatbed insulation.For the S4 and S5 bed insulation is a must.
OK well at least I got some criticism for this printer till now everyone was saying " OMG best printer Ever..." I think for my use and budget it is still worth buying.
I am currently building a Hypercube of 500X500X500 mm, I have been at it for over 2 years now, it's a difficult balance between work, family, investment, designproblems and the resulting ARBEITSLUST whenever I have the free time, also my other builds and prints sometimes take up quite some time. However I am planning on finishing it, currently fighting with the orientation of the cablechain, the sheer length makes it hang which makes it want to go down in a direction where it will break, Well when I started No one had ever built one that big, but I am pretty sure some have already succeeded, My original idea was to print big parts but to keep the 0.4 nozzle for high detail, mainly I want to use it to print an Iron Man suit, a doomslayer armor and a Halo Master Chief, and I want to reduce the amount of sanding and filling gaps, I have the patience for it so I do not mind the extra printtimes, allthough I worry about powerconsumption, heatlosses (I do intend to print a closed container for it) and security (Firehazards etc...). Here are some video ideas for you derived from my experience: In these times of War and possible energy crisis because of it have you ever considered the possibility of running a printer on solarpanels, windpower and Batteries? (I was also thinking of building a smaller portable one that I could use in a field which is probably easier) What are the best Materials for insulating my printer and keeping the heat in the chamber without loosing the view of the printer? Probably Plexiglass but are there alternatives (Cheaper or better?) What would be the best Price/quality airfilter for printing more Toxic materials like ABS, Nylon or PEEK? Or Resins which is another thing I would like to do in the future. What if I want BIG AND More Detail? When is the amount of detail too much to be a feasible cost print? I take it a 0.2 mm for a Max volume cube CR-10 would take weeks or months, that print would end me up with an electric bill and a stroke when reading it, but where is the tipping point? What if I go Full renewable and off grid, would it be feasible then? Are there any design modifications in powersupply and power usage that I can implement or that are planned by manufacturers to lower the cost? And lastly safety, I know you can have temp sensors and security, smoke alarms etc....But what if the worst happens? A fire? Can an extinguisher be built in? I know water and foam would destroy the printer but maybe that is lowcost and less traumatising and less deadly as letting my house burn down during extra long prints over several nights, but if there are alternatives like CO2 I would be happy to hear it.
After watching many videos of CR-10 and all flaws it has, I decided to upgrade my printer to 300x400x500 with 2 heatbeds and linear slide guides. It will be hughe and it will print ultra fast, because it will be tough and no shaking and wobbling. But It will take some time to get all parts. Will use 2 Z axis screws because I believe one can make problems and those guiding rollers are a total weak spot, after see problems with it, I will not use it.
Excuse the stiff intro, I still need to get comfortable in front of the camera 😉 Audio is also still not optimal. Looking for a good deal on a new 3D printer and want to support the channel? Take a look at the affiliate links below and in the description: Get a Creality CR-10 on flash sale for $389.99: goo.gl/LNHdbh Get an Alfawise U-10 on flash sale for $455.99: goo.gl/ddPi4v Get a Anycubic I3 MEGA on flash sale for $349.99: goo.gl/fH6o3M
Could you possibly share the settings you used for the .6mm nozzle? I’d love to try that nozzle size but don’t want to go through all of that calibration hassle.
danke für den hinweis, dass youtube das teil gratis bekommen. da denkt man dann schon nochmal über die anschaffung nach, wenn man das weiß! vielen dank.
I have a CR-10 S5 and the same issues... but for big pieces this is super gut :D ... smaller prints also are not that precise even with a 0.2 nozzle and a 0.1 layer height, ... the circles tend to be oval and not regularly oval, sometimes to the left, sometimes to the right, ... at first I thought it was temperature and pulling, but after testing a lot, ...it's the printer, beyond 0.3 starts to have little issues... other than that... I mostply print with 0.6 and it's speed at that size makes it very useful...
I'm "dreaming" of a CR-10. However... being very realistic about it.... I will most likely not print 300x300 objects since they would take too long. The longest prints I'm allowing myself is like 6 hours max because I don't ever leave my printer alone. For a ~300x300 thing @ 0.4 nozzle this would require several days depending on the height and complexity.
My CR-10 is a good printer, though it had some teething problems. The most notable one was that the heat cartridge for the nozzle failed early after about 10 hours use. Replaced it and it's been just fine since. The next issue is that the print bed isn't as flat as it could be. Especially after I switched from the glass bed to a flexible build plate. I eventually just modded the printer and installed an automated mesh leveling system from TH3D. Flashing firmware for it was annoying since it doesn't have a boot loader, though this might have changed in more recent versions? Also, the bed heater is underpowered for its size. But let's talk about what the printer CAN do. Print quality is excellent, with best results at 0.12mm layer height with the .4mm nozzle. Going smaller than that starts resulting in blobbing, but this is probably just because running a .4mm nozzle at 80um or 40um layer height is asking for trouble. It also came with a 0.3mm nozzle, but I haven't experimented with it much. I have some really nice miniatures. You can see the front teeth on the 1 cm tall rat figure I printed, for instance (this one was at 40um layer height). Unline Stefan's prints, I found layer lines nice and orderly, but this is heavily dependant on the tolerance of your filament thickness! I suspect he's running into either overextursion or wet filament, or even running too hot - I run PLA at just under 200C. For large prints, the .4mm nozzle has no trouble with .4mm layers. After installing the mesh leveling system, it can print .2mm initial layer height across the entire build plate. Right now I'm printing a model of the Notre Dame cathedral in Paris. It's about 10-11 inches in the longest dimension, and at the .12mm layer height, the print will take about half a week, even at 90mm/s movement. It's actually much more of a torture test than I initially thought, with very thin (less than 2mm wide) towers forming the seperators between windows. So far, none of them have fallen, and they're dead straight and not wavy like a lot of the example prints people hade done on Thingyverse. For materials, it prints PLA and flexible TPU very nicely (the latter surprised me, given that it's a bowden extruder. Was running at 30 mm/s IIRC). PETG gives me no end of bed adhesion trouble, which I suspect is due to the underpowered bed heater. Also, I have a thick PrintInZ flexible build plate, which I think is acting like an insulator, further reducing the surface bed temperature. I haven't tried ABS, and don't really intend to, given its reputation. Might attempt nylon some day, though I think I'll need an all metal hotend to withstand the temperature.
Since you already have the Tevo extruder, why not convert the whole thing to a direct drive? The metal frame can support the weight and the prints will come out a lot more accurate.
I'm a noob with a CR-10S. I've had minimal failed prints (using Cura) after the first three prints I've ever done. It has a 0.4mm nozzle and I can go down to 0.06mm layers with excellent results. I have a range of nozzles to try, from 0.3mm to 0.8mm. I didn't bother with the blue inserts. I am interested in trying the large nozzle, I have large prototypes to print. Were I to get another printer it would probably be a Prusa MK3(+)
How many Germans does it take to screw in a light bulb? One, because they are very efficient and not very funny. :) Joke in good humor, wonderful video and thanks for the input! The Tevo Tornado heats the bed faster, but I think the build quality suffers when compared to the CR10.
the problem with heating so hard is because they use a 12V power supply. On their ender 3 printer they use a 24V one and it takes about 2 minutes to heat it to 60 C with hotend heated also.
@@uglynerfherder lmfao so true. I love Germans personally. I marvel at their efficiency and mechanical ability. America has always had ingenuity as a chief strength. Both are great countries with so many good attributes.
Interesting video: some more idea to choose the right 3D printer! In the control box I see a small problem: the connectors are potentially dangerous: bared pin should be on the load side not on the supply side. If by mistake you switch on the control box without connecting the motors you find the pins in tension. It is true that the voltage is low but if the internal power supply is similar to that of a laptop, there is a risk that a pole is connected directly to the network and that there may occur in an electric shock. I do not know if it ever happened to you: when, during summer, I use the laptop with bare feet and legs I can not put it back to my body if the laptop is connected to the external power supply, because the chassis screws on the bottom of the pc send me a small, no fatal but annoying, electrical shock ... as long as something in the power supply does not break! That's why I say transformerless power supplies may be somehow connected to the power grid the power socket has the bare pins too on the box side but in this case the box itself is the user since power comes from the power cord (made with protected pins) for maximum safety it would be best for all the outlets socket to be protected: in my work they taught me that all you do not do to avoid a risk equals to allow it
Yeah, no, the whole board is Earth referenced! It's not floating. Transformerless power supplies? What? No, those aren't a thing, i mean they are a thing in lightbulbs and other sealed devices, capacitive droppers, but they're properly deadly to touch, so you'll never see one with exposed wires, not from any legitimate source anyway. Any exposed electrics, phone charger, laptop charger etc has SMPS, a power supply with high-frequency transformer separating the mains side and the low voltage side. Sometimes floating power supplies can tingle you, it's annoying but it's not dangerous. What happens is they have a Class Y capacitor going from mains side to the low-voltage ground. It's silly, but it's necessary to prevent electromagnetic interference to other devices. These capacitors come with a strong guarantee that they will never fail dangerously, they will never short across or spark across. They will only reduce in their effectiveness as they age, or fail fully open. You can easily trust your life to a Y capacitor. What you can't trust quite as much is the transformer, which although is supposed to be certified safe, realistically is the more dangerous part, because it really has no reliable mechanism to fail open, and sometimes they miswind them so the certification is right out of the window. And you'll never know when it will fail, as there is no indication whether it might or might not do so, except you know the usual, bad smell, heat, fire, high voltage across your heart and subsequent death, all those things that happen when it's too late already. Well, don't panic, it'll probably be fine, you could as well win a lottery.
Thanks for the review.. it would be awesome if you could recap the best settings you use in your video comment... I feel am missing some, the video is quite fast and amoung the test array, it is not so clear what is the final answer .. :)
Muy interesante el video pero es un verdadero caldo de cabeza lo que hay que hacer para imprimir con cabezales mas anchos. No habrá por ahí algún manual para parametrizar en función de dimensión de nozzle, impresora y tipo de material? No me interesa ser científico de I&D.
If you had a complicated shape with overhanging parts you wanted to print. Could you design it so that supports are printed that you could trim off with a knife later? Would the basic idea work?
Great Video! Would you be willing to post your print settings with this nozzle? It would be great to not have to go through the trial and error. Thanks
Dammit! I'm struggling to decide which printer to buy! Every other video loves CR-10 and the others hates it... for others it works like a charm.. others have huge difficulties to run it... I guess I should go for the Prusa but it's a lot more expensive!
Do you need a big build area or just normal?? I have the Creality ender 3 (wich has 235x235) and with small upgrades its a very decent printer and Ive bought it for just 189,- Im printing quite fast with it too , all parts at 0.2 and I just fiddle with settings in cura slicer to get rid of long printing times. In the beginning I had issues with sticking my prints to the original bed but after buying a glass bed and using hairspray it works like a charm. Ive put in TL smoothers ,hugely improved the prints and made it a lot less noisy. I have dampeners for the motors but its working just fine without them so Im not planning to change it soon. The bowden extruder is the next thing I upgrade (from plastic to aluminum). I have it now for 3 months and Im still suprised how nice parts come out of this somewhat cheap printer.
@@jeffmilkey =) I went for the CR-10. And by a happy accident I got 2 for the price of 1 xD ... the first one got lost in shipping.. I tried to find it for a couple of weeks. I had insured the shipping so they shipped me another one. And the day they shipped the second printer the first one had been left on my doorstep. This all took a couple of months.
At first, great that you did something different. But sadly the printer is much butter then the impression you imply. I'm using it since 300 hours and I don't know what you've done to the wheels? Mine came perfectly tightened. If you tightened them more, it's your fault. The problem with the x axis is a mess, but easy to solve. In addition there have been added various fan ducts on thingiverse. The printer does an amazing job, I don't know why you let him look like crap. In addition with a layerheight of 0.1 I cant see a difference between the prints of a CR-10 and an original MK3. The only thing right is that it's the wrong printer to print ABS. And honestly, I don't care about ABS, PETG is fine because I don't need to aceton smooth my prints. Furthermore I have the same opinion like Makers Muse about ABS. It's a material from the beginning of the 3d printing era. I don't know why everybody wants to print that toxic stuff? There are other good materials which can be printed more easy, but everybody comes around with that toxic stuff.... I will never understand why.
Nice quality videos man! Could you please tell us where to find that setup you came up with the 0,6 nozzle? I saw some in the video but not all and I want to try it before upgrading to Vulcanos, Titans and so on. Many thanks for all the info we get from your videos!
Hi Thanks for the answer I thought there would be more things to fine tune not just coasting, wipe distance retraction and temperatures. Sorry for the noob question then. I use cura and the new ones have so may parameters to change... And yes I saw the other videos and reviews and thats why i am considering bying a E3D volcano hot end and probably the TH3D titan extruder. thanks again!
It's really just taking your standard profile and tuning retraction, coasting, wipe and temps. The rest basically stays the same. "Tuning" all of the other setting usually causes way more problems than it solves.
@@CNCKitchen I have been watching any and all videos I can find on settings for larger nozzles. So far you have given the most information but I don't think it is complete. Unless you truly do not need to slow down the sprint speed at higher temps. The other videos never really talk about temps. Some might mention oh you may need to turn it up and then they don't really say how much. I noticed when you discussed the hot end not keeping up you showed your machine was set at 245 C....early you mentioned 230 c. I assume you had to set it at 245 C to get it to stay around 230C.... Thanks for the video. If someone like you did a video like this and provided the FFF export, you would make lots more money. If I have to experimentally determine the best settings it could literally take days or even weeks. Do a video for each large Nozzle size (.6, .8, 1 and 1.2mm) and Provide the FFF export and you will make bank. Just my opinion.....
Finally... These mostly good reviews and mostly the same... were little frightening... and yes... The issues I've seen made me change my mind on the cr-10...
Would you mind sharing the new fan nozzle part as it looks like an improvement on the standard. I have a slightly different model which points it lower more onto the part but it still points the air to the full width rather than focusing on the print head.
What is DoE and how do you actually calculate the combinations of parameters ? Can you build a Hypercube and test it out against your Prusa ? I am thinking to build a second one and use a bigger nozzle too .
Hi Stefan, how did you make the hole in the fan guide at around 6:04? I recognise the loft feature in the timeline but I don't know what the feature is just before the loft (the one after the fillet - it has a symbol that looks like a plane in front and a blue box behind it). Oh, and one more thing - could you put the results of the DoE (the best coast/wipe/retraction settings) in the video description for quick reference? I really appreciate your work on this, I've been using your fan guide for over a week. Left you a nice comment on thingiverse with my power consumption readings before and after :)
Thanks for the update :). I don't think there's a menu option for "offset" but I notice the "push/pull" (keyboard shortcut "Q") offsets faces and gives the same timeline icon. Keep up the great vids :)
I think for the size the CR-10 is a pretty good deal. You can get great large volume printers from other manufacturers (e.g. Raise3D) but they are way more expensive.
Get what you pay for so go in knowing that #1 A single leadscrew is a horrible idea and #2 many things have been scrimped on to make it for that price so treat the machine as a box of parts and you will feel better.
Very cool. Do you have the s3d profile for printing with the larger nozzle? If so, can you share it? I'm toying with this concept as well and would love to try out your profile on some test. thanks for video!
Was hast du denn jetzt für deine wipe distance, coasting und retraction für Werte verwendet? Ich hab nämlich exakt die selben Probleme wie du mit der 0.6 mm nozzle. Wäre mir eine riesen Hilfe, danke dir
Noch nie mit einem gearbeitet. Sicherlich ein interessantes Spielzeug aber wohl eher für spezielle Anwendungen geeignet, da zb kein retracting möglich ist. Auch die Pellets zu handeln ist nicht ganz so einfach und Pigmente sind die andere Sache. Mit fertig gefärbten Pellets bist du nämlich auch nicht günstiger als mit Filament.
@@CNCKitchen dnke für die schnelle antwort. ich dachte eher an geschredderten plastikmüll auch wenns dann eher in richtung PP geht was wahrscheinlich nochmal andere probleme mit sich bringt. ich dachte evtl an diesen hier: mahorxyz.wordpress.com/2016/05/02/pellet-extruder/ was hältst du davon?
You said you weren't intending to do a review of the CR-10, and you definitely succeeded in avoiding a comprehensive review of it, but you still touched on a few of the strengths and weaknesses of the printer, while keeping things general enough to apply to other large printers. I guess I'm looking for a nice way to thank you for not putting out another CR-10 shill video like some other channels out there and providing genuinely useful information.
I have been debating internally about putting a .5 or .6 nozzle on my cr-10 but just haven't committed to it. Every now and then I like printing at .08 or .1 and im afraid a .5 or .6 would ruin the detail a little too much.
Hey CNC Kitchen, I have a request, I just got a Prusa i3 Mk3 and I just went for it and upgraded from a .4 to a .8mm nozzle, with .4mm layer heights i am trying to tweak the settings on the Slic3r PE settings but seem to not get anywhere, any chance you could take a look and give me some tips or settings you use?
Hi man! fantastic video.. I love your channel... would you be so kind to share your s3d fff profile? I might need to fine tune it as my pla will be different than yours but I think it will save tons of time :-) thanks! (sorry if you already did it, I simply cannot find it). Two euros paypaled to you already. bye!
I wouldn't do that, because there is a high chance that this causes issues due to surface finish and burrs. Also if you take a look at the internal geometry of 0.4mm nozzles and 0.8mm nozzles (E3D) there is quite a difference. The nozzles are not expensive, so just buy some genuine ones and save yourself some hassle.
I have both genuine E3D nozzles and clone nozzles I've looked at under a 300x microscope. Trust me, if those clone nozzles work, then you could definitely drill a nozzle. If smooth finish really is a concern, run some string thru with toothpaste and polish the surface. It would be a fun experiment!
I guess they do have one in the UK: www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_441282.html?wid=88&lkid=11501485 And as long Brexit is not finished there shouldn't be additional taxes (but I can't promise that 100%)
