Uses for and mounting of the PZEM-022 multi-function power meter 

I'm glad that you found it helpful! I, too, searched the tube before I got into it and didn't find what I needed, so I knew I wouldn't be the only one. Also nice to run into a fellow Trekkie!

Great idea!! I spend a lot of time in the hardware store to get ideas, but that didn't occur to me.

Theoretically, yes, but you'd need to be able to isolate the conductors going to just that portion. If one breaker feeds that portion, you could add the meter to the outgoing side of that breaker. You'd need to reset the meter on the same day your power meter is read so the info from the PZEM is in sync with your power bill billing cycle.

I hope it helped! Make sure to power your meter from the same breaker that your CT coil is on.

What did you find, out of curiosity? Electric baseboard heat is 250 watts per foot, FYI.

This all assumes that you're in the United States: To answer your question....sort of, but not really. What I think you should do is put a CT onto and power one meter from one leg and tie the other meter power wire to the floating neutral. Do that on both legs. If you use that one meter, set up the way you have it, you'll only see the correct current if the load is 120V and then only if the load is on that leg. If your load is 220v, you'll see half the load on that one meter and an incorrect voltage. I should have spent more time showing exactly what would have answered your question. If you look at 45:46, you'll see that fat 4/0 cable coming into the top of my breaker panel (what would be each side of your 30A breaker feed. I say feed because this will give you a chance to make sure that your frequency is close to correct before you drop on any load). Those are two legs of 120V when measured to neutral or ground, between them is 220V. You can see a CT on each one, but what you can't see is that the meters are powered by their respective circuits, the other side connected to neutral. You can see at 45:51 what you'll see on the meter faces, and that's accurate information. Let me know if that was clear as mud...

@@mr11k29 yes I'm in West Virginia. I thought with my existing configuration I was getting inaccurate readings and after you've explained it, it makes sense to me now. Thank You! Much clearer than mud, more like murky water now lol. Now as far as the neutral to both meters, I'm assuming I can just run one neutral wire into the box with my meters and split it there to feed both meters since all my neutrals are on the same bus at the panel anyway? I've only ran 1 12/3 Romex from my breaker panel to my meter box so this would use up all the conductors in that cable.

@@brandongreen7856 Yes, red to one hot leg, black to the other hot leg and white is your floating or "shared" neutral. If you look at your 30A twist lock, that's the way that's fed too.

Thanks again! Oh one more thing, as far as getting the true wattage total wattage that my generator is providing, I'm assuming I would simply add the power value of each meter and that would be the total? Is it the same for the amps as well?

@@brandongreen7856 So, you will only read what is being consumed, not the maximum the generator can supply. If you add the wattage of each of the legs together, that will be your total consumed. What I've been playing with is balancing my load such that the total KW hours (over time obviously) are as equal as possible. I'd be curious to know what you find your frequencies to be at different load levels. I have a few appliances, including my boiler, that are frequency snobs and will lockout and not work unless frequency is +-1.5 HZ

I wouldn't think that power factor would apply to a purely resistive load. Your model appears to be different than the one I show here. There is certainly something amiss if you're only seeing 20% of what you should be. It may simply be a bad unit.

@@tonyc.4528 ,I did not give you the whole story, The bulb is connected to a 3 AMP , 300 Watt variac, the digital meter is connected to the variac to replace the analog meter that came with it and was not accurate. the reading I'm talking about is through the variac which means, I dialed the knob (on the Variac) to 110 volt, the light bulb is supposedly in full 100% brightness as if it's connected to a household outlet directly, but at 110 volt the display shows the following: 110V, 0.13 Amp, 14.3 Watt. I am a total newbie here and don't understand electricity ,period. but I expected to see 100 watt in the display (not 14.3 W) I have been scratching my head to why my meter does not show the 3 digit, my meter has 00.0 which can only show two digits and change(tenth of a unit) . if the meter (through the variac) calculates V X A= Watt, then 110 V X.13 A = 14.3 Watt is correct but a 110 volt/ 100 watt bulb should show 100 W on the meter . can not understand what's going on . I followed the wiring to the variac correctly as far as I know. any thought?

I just got an answer that makes perfect sense, although the bulb is connected to a Variac, I am in fact measuring the input power to the Variac not the output power. The input is affected by PF because it is a transformer with reactive load but the output is not as the lamp is a resistive load.

@@ddistrbd1 That makes sense. The meter power needs to be fed from the same exact circuit as the one you are measuring. I was going to ask if the variac output was from a purely analog circuit or whether it was inverted or electronically regulatedand may not have a pure sine wave.

@@tonyc.4528 I t feel good to know where I had gone wrong, the question was bugging me for the past few days ,all this time I thought I was measuring the output of the bulb, it goes to show you how ignorant and unfamiliar I am about electricity but many thanks to patient experts like you and a few others who went out of their way to figure out what I was saying. many thanks to you inparicular for your input. best of luck in life.Ken.

I looked on your channel to see your solution, but alas, none was to be found...no vids whatsoever🤔