Using Molds For Making Natural Incense (IM 023) 

You are very kind. I'm glad you're finding the book helpful.

You probably could - but the heating element would release a lot of your scented compounds into the air. I wouldn't use it for food, after that, either.

Yes. I got a 10 drawer one for my production. You will want to be careful with laying it directly on the plastic. Some plastics are easily dissolved by things like cinnamon and essential oils. I got some light diffusion material (also called eggcrate) from a hardware store and cut it to fit in the trays. This is a messy business and makes sharp edges so be prepared to sand a bit. Then I got some nylon window screen and put it on top of the eggcrate. The incense doesn't damage the nylon. I make sticks so I line them up just touching each other. I've seen this in books on japanese joss and in some videos on RU-vid by krishna fabritec incense company. If they are just barely touching they dry a little slower and don't tend to deform or curve. I also top with another piece of nylon screen and then eggcrate on top of that. It's not heavy enough to flatten the sticks and has ample airflow. I run the dehydrator on a fairly low temperature for about 2 days, checking after about 6 hours. Use a paint stirring stick or an icing spatula to scoot the sticks closer together as they dry and shrink. Don't use your fingers - they need to be rolled down their length. Fingers put too much pressure on one place and you can break a whole row of them that way. Don't use it for food afterward unless all your incense ingredients are also food.

Yes you can, but do it with caution. I let my incense rest at room temp for 12 to 24 hours before putting it in the dehydrator. Cones work well, but sticks and coils may curl.