What a fantastic series! Insomnia allowed me to binge it today. Fascinating! My work occasionally afforded me contact with elevator techs fixing relay logic elevator controllers. Many of the troubleshooting concepts you are showing are exactly the same as what they do. This was a master class in relay logic.
This flipper also brings back old memories. Nice repair work again. Great to see how you solve problem by looking schematics during troubleshooting process.
You could make an EM pinball machine completely quiet by putting a couple of diodes in it to run all the relays on DC instead of AC. But first of all, you'd need some pretty beefy diodes, and second, the 50 or 60 Hz buzz is what makes it cool! "Come on people!"
Another fine production! Thanks. I get a hankering to mess with my machines watching these videos, but I just do some light cleaning here and there. If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. Joe seems to have gone radio silence on us Ronnie:p Tell him we need a shout out every once in a while. Catch you on the next one!
He's usually here in the morning and i'm in the evening so after he leaves a lot of the time is when we film, so he's not always on camera :) Thanks for watching as always Miguel!
I would have used a hose clamp on that split collar as it would not being allowing the cam to run sort of elliptical. That could cause the switch to not make in certain parts of the revolution of the cam.
Good Morning Joe . Get RR Done. This one had a few snafus to fix. How much time do you spend on an typical pinball fix up? Also , Which one takes more time to fix EM or Solid-State. machines ?
After watching this series I can appreciate the ‘enigma machine’ level of complexity that went into the design of these pre CPU machines. I’m guessing the first ever machine was the hardest and then once that was done and tested, they could slowly expand upon the formula. Also, I’ve learnt not ever to buy one of these as they are clearly super temperamental by now.
I don't know why, but this trouble-shooting reminds me of bookkeeping in the days before computers. If your numbers don't add up at the end of the month, and you have no idea where the error is, you just start going back through your ledger pages and very methodically re-adding all the rows and columns. The mistake is always in there somewhere, it's just a matter of finding it!
Hi Joe, the thing you forgot to fix is the knocker! I have a williams skylab that also has no knocker operation. I cant figure it out. I was hoping you would help me with that
I've fixed it on some other ones but it's hard to remember which videos, I've done a ton of them :) The knocker circuit is very simple, basically everytime a credit gets added to the game, the knocker goes off because there's a switch directly on the credit wheel on the back that closes and makes the knocker go off as the wheel turns. IF your game has been set on freeplay, it may have been done in such a way that the game no longer adds credits and the credit wheel doesn't move. If that's how it's setup, the knocker will not work because you're already at your maximum number of credits.
Yes i have checked the switch works in the back, the game credits will advance properly as it should and even jumped the knocker with a 12 volt battery charger and it works then. But wont knock when the game credit advances. I have a video on the operation….
I try to watch all your videos. Mostly the pins. I've learned a lot especially reading schematics. Even being an electrician by trade, pinball schematics confuse me. Question, in general, are they usually written as game powered on as it sits, powered off, or on and start button pushed?
I do electronic work and those schematics are different for sure - that one relay is all over the place can be confusing. Elevators are worse. I tried to learn relay schematics on an elevator controller (junk that is removed from service) and got nowhere until I made my own notation that puts each relay in one place. That has it's drawbacks also!
27:23 not only the face of relay is dirty, but the Bronze or Brass insert in the middle of the face may be too flattened. The Bronze/Brass Stud is meant to introduce some resistance into the Magnetic circuit (Reluctance) by making an Air Gap between the face of the relay (pole) and the Armature. In this instance the Armature has a mark from the pole which extends across the face of the Brass insert onto the Soft Iron of the Armature. It may just be sticky because of the dirt, but potentially may also be because the Stud is worn too flat, therefore with no resistance (Reluctance) from the Stud the magnetic circuit is shorted and the relay will never release! Some relays have an adjustable Stud which means you can make the relay fast to release (Large Stud/Air Gap) or potentially slow it down by decreasing the Air Gap, even locking it up completely if it's adjusted to be too small!
So similar to my Twinky game. The Twinky game has a peacock that has feathers that light up when you land in the top hole. New players always look around and try to figure out what to do when it activates.
Thanks for another great pinball repair series. I have a question on this machine, what are the numbers (0 through 6) at the top of the back glass for? Is it a match function? If so, where are the 7, 8, and 9?
0-6 are up on the top left and 7.8.9 are on the top right, yes they're the match numbers.... I did a video about this game a couple years ago and it had a better backglass, you can see it better.... check it out here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-v8jDsxHipzk.html
@@LyonsArcade Thanks Ron, I was wondering about that the whole series and it never came up. I've probably already watched the other video but just don't remember -- so I guess it's time to watch again.
@@LyonsArcade In old lionel trains that run on ac I have seen guys add a small rectfier to make the power to the solenoid coils dc. It is usefull if the buzzing on the reverse switch solenoids is loud and annoying, it cuts one of the ac waves to eliminate the back and forth pulsing of power in the coil......Im not an electronics guy but it may be an idea to look into to quiet down a really noisy solenoid in a game.
JOE'S CLASSIC, I never saw you fix the "Ball Return Gate" it never closes it just stays open, any reasons why its staying open and not closing? The "Gunsmoke Switch" on the schematic is drawn with a special symbol, any reasons why or what type of special switch they are using for the gunsmoke switch?
If you pay attention he explains it in the video, there is a jumper the owner can set to either keep the gate open or close it when you scratch the ball. It's kind of a "difficulty level" switch. at about 12:00 .
The same buzz you hear on a digital OR analog hobby servo,,as it tries to hold center,,or neutral. Once you get the linkages or ?? perfect,,to where it is not pulling Amps/mA/ drawing juice,,no more buzz. Think of adjusting the vertical or horizontal hold on a old Zenith TV. Same thing,,of sorts. Those are BITCHIN caveman schematics,,and I love them. At 11:42,,,never put it on Liberal,,it will never return the ball,,,EVER!!. At least on Conservative, you get it back once in awhile. Badump-Bump!!!,,,or as Joe likes to say "Waa---Waaa---Waaaaaa!!!". That Gunsmoke game is Politically incorrect. How dare it be that way,, oh yeah,,,,1968.
We couldn't play it because we didn't have the right legs for it.... BUT we did play another Gun Smoke, check this out : - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-v8jDsxHipzk.html
