Grab some G54 merch here - www.en.garage5... In this video: garage tools were never meant to be used this way, however this does seem like a legitimate test of their actual durability. For business inquiries: promotion@garage54.ru
When you think your socket extension CV shafts are overheating because you forgot to grease them but it's actually the wooden break pads you installed in a previous backyard experiment. Wonderful work guys
My friend built a hot rod in the '70s and used the ball style "impact" U joint to connect his steering column to the steering box. It worked great for that but this goes way beyond the torque capacity of these. Maybe bump it up to 1 " drive
@@KekusMagnus If you just happened to have a welder handy. I once had an (rear) axle shear and lost the wheel and drum. Recovered the wheel and pulled my toolbox out of the trunk along with, you guessed it, a spare axle. Fixed it right on the side of the road and was on my way in 30 minutes.
I don''t think this was about cost efficiency because then you'd have to account for manhours fitting and welding the parts together on top of the redos. This was simply will it work or not. I haven't seen a whole lot here in Garage 54 involving economical ways of doing things, the cobbling is usually way more expensive than doing it "normal" But normal isn't what this channel's about, LOL!
Welding hardened steel is just asking for it to break, if you heat-treated them to soften them up first (heat 'til red, then allow to cool slowly), they'd probably last longer and be less prone to shattering, but being chrome-vanadium tool steel they'd probably still behave weirdly...
I can't believe that they lasted past the first time they let out the clutch in my experience they break if you look at them the wrong way but still awesome video thanks guys keep up the awesome work
At my friends farm, one of her dads old lawn tractors had one of the squared end ones welded in place for a busted tie rod end. Small tractor, but it seemed to have been there for many many years.
I love how these guys can use Russian made tools to make a makeshift axel and my US newspapers try to paint a picture that their military equipment is failing against Ukraine. I knew my newspaper headlines here in the US was a load of crap.
That was cool. I've always been fascinated by the thought of using something like that to make an axle and it would probably work quite well for something lighter like a gocart with suspension on it where the axles only have to move up and down for bumps and stuff. Either way that idea used to entertain my mind especially as a kid. Awesome video G54. 🤘🤘👍👍
Those extensions are pretty solid since the square didn't rip off... Also could have added 2 cardan joints at each end, like old universal joints use to have.
There is a company called RVS who drive around with a car with no engine oil at all. They say that after their RVS engine management oil additive the engine would work even without oil. You guys could try it out!
Cv joints like this makes a constant speed oscillate in speed on the output and it's worse the sharper angel they are bendt at which is probably why you feel like the wheels were “tugging” from time to time
Looks like the front right wheel is wobbling left and right, not just a little bit :) At least you guys shoud use wheels on the front axle that are not TOTALLY destroyed :)
G'day Garage54 & BMI, "I smell burning wood, are we running something wooden?" "Yeah the Brakes" 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 I suffer from Depression but no matter how Bad or Stressful a day is you guys make me laugh, so glad I found your channel.
doesnt take much to snap those. even 1st gear in an old lada is going to produce hundreds of pounds of torque between first gear and the final drive to the front wheels.
Old banger racing trick I used for prop shafts on rear wheel drives was to make one from two pieces of box section steel that slide inside each other so when the car got shorter from damage the box slid inside each other may help for any further projects 🤷🏻♂️
You guys are freaking hilarious I love it and I was wondering why the brakes were so bad oh that’s right we could still got wooden brakes lol oh I love watching your guises stuff man you guys are so funny
@@thehulkamaniabrother2.089 Letting out the clutch is not the same as hitting the gas as soon as he hit the gas or put it in second gear putting more of a load on it it’s snapped right at the swivel joint pin just like I said so or yes!
@@thehulkamaniabrother2.089 I love your passive aggressiveness maybe it would’ve been better if you build it It doesn’t matter who built it using those joints it was sure to snap under load no matter what even if you build it keyboard warrior
The engine itself does not, maybe 100 to 150Nm, a 1/2 drive easily transfers that. But after gearbox and differential reduction, it will be 12-16 times the torque in 1st gear!
Also there is yet another design of these that brands like husky, old school craftsman professional, Marco and some other use called "pinless" impact universal. Where to there are four contact nubs. I stead of 2 on either end of a pin. Those would likely be stronger. But they have more back and forth slop.
I'd like to see y'all do axles kind of like how the old RC cars had ...where at the wheel it was a cup with two slits 180° from each other and the axle has sort of a ball on the end with a t bar through it and it slid into the cup... Just look up older standard nitro RC car axles and look at how they are designed... I wonder if normal size axles made in this manner would work in a car...???...
Even though there is war. I hope you ALL of Russia knows that most of America does love Russia and all of its flaws very very much!!! We love your inventions and your intelligence and creativity. Your channel is absolutely inspirational and so is your country. We love you. GiestZ
you could get two deep hex sockets, install them facing each other with a long hex key of the proper size locking them together with a bit of grease. that way it works like a spline and it allows the whole thing to contract or expand just enough
I could see this potentially working on a shaft driven motorcycle, like a BMW. Some of those have pretty thin driveshafts. I would try on an old R50 or R60 (either /2 or /5). The /5 variants are still fairly abundant, actual parts are RELATIVELY easy to access, and they are cheap. The /2 is dealing with the hyperinflation of the classic vehicle market, but a beat up one can be had for not too much. Plus, they are not so damned powerful that you need a super duty drive train.
Haven't finished watching the video, but the joints are too far inboard of the bearings. The owm joints pivot inside the cup that was welded to, in line with the steering axis. There is a LOT of extra stress on the axle and joint because of this geometric error. The reason the steering is jerking is due to this error as well. When you turn, you are swing the joint / axle instead of pivoting at it. It doesn't do it as much with the ball jointed part because it is smoother, but if you look closely, you can clearly see that the axle moves forward (to the front of the car) when the steering is turned to the left (when sitting in the car)
A useless skill? Count me in. I will watch and probably upvote. 😀 And if I am ever trapped in the desert with a broken half shaft and a complete set of swivel joints, and a welder, and...
Purchase swivel ball joints sockets from tool-truck/industrial supplier with lifetime warranty, when it inevitably breaks just warranty it for a new one
Please offer translation services for Kreosan English! They do great experiments too, but after their original translator left for unknown reason they’re voiceover‘s are absolutely terrible. I think you could translate English better than the person who does it now. Cheers!
The jerking of the steering wheel when turning is because universal joints are not constant velocity (CV) joints. That means that when the wheel is turned and the joints are on a strong angle, the joint speeds up and slows down as it spins because of the angle it is operating at. If the 2 joints on either end of the shaft are not at the same angle (which they won’t be if the wheel is turned) then the 2 joints will not be synchronized, and you’ll get a jerking sensation. That’s why universal joints are only used for drive shafts between the transmission/transfer case and differentials, or on rear wheels that don’t steer, but not on front drive axles (except on straight axles where they only have to deal with the steering angle)
Anyone else wondering how a car with no tie rods or any steering linkage whatsoever is being driven? I can only assume the steering is connected to the strut? I can’t imagine how horrific this thing must handle if that’s the way it came from the factory! I can’t imagine the deflection when this car is put into a corner!
why wouldn't you just fully weld the joint, shave the bead, add a collar sleeve, and then fully weld that on with a healthy bead, that way the only thing that's going to fail is the Uni joint
