Thanks for a great lesson in proper weatherstripping, I have some spring bronze coming for my project, and I'll have to order the silicone tubing later.
Thanks for the video. It was just what I needed because I have ten 6-over-1 double hung windows that need to be weatherstripped. Your explanations were clear and the videography was excellent. I liked seeing the use of the staple gun because the other video I watched (also excellent) showed the spring bronze weatherstripping being applied with nails. It's good to have another option.
A tip to spring the bronze out further- if you run a smooth dull corner of a tool (flat bar, 5in1, flat head…) along the crease, using a fair amount of pressure, it will spring out further. You can repeat it with as much pressure as needed to spring it as far as needed. Works better than trying to bend out by hand or with flat bar 👍
I finally found the stapler I need, thank you. Also, a tip for cutting the "10 deg" angle is hold both of them together and cut them at the same time! Also, I love your setup for cutting with the ruler and spool. Quick question, how does the silicone weather stripping adjust your overall height of your sash? Do you subtract an 1/8"?
Yet another great video, how does spring bronze compare to the plastic leaf from Conservative Technologies that is inserted into a routered groove in the sash? You have another video where you install that in an old sash. Which one will have better air sealing, easier to install. I like the idea of the plastic leaf spring in the sash as it is hidden whether the sash is in open or closed position.
How did you cut the groove in the meeting rail? You do not show this process, just the finished product. Did you use the Conservation Technology router and bit? To cut the groove, could I use a trim router? I do enjoy your videos and have picked some great tips. Thank you.
I'm gonna follow up and ask the same question. I'm not sure if I make sure the ropes are new and just seal them shut, or if I notch three overlapping pieces of bronze, or something else.
We’ve reworked our old wooden windows in our old house. We’re fixing to build wooden window screens w/ bronze screen, would we need the spring bronze weatherstripping? Thank you. And your video is amazing. Very helpful for DIY’ers.
Regarding the meeting rail, it seems like folks are all over on their approach to weatherstripping. The criticism I've heard about a silicone seal is that it will be over-compressed and fail prematurely. Do you know if your approach has been durable on a fairly tightly fitting meeting rail? (Clearly, it's easy to replace when it does fail--) I wish I had found your channel 4 months ago when I was planning my window refurb! Your videos are gold; I wish I was closer to take a course!
excellent video. thank you for sharing this information. Do you think doing this can eliminate the storm window? also on the bead you routed where the two sashes meet when locked, can we instead do the silicone caulk like you did with top and bottom?
I don’t think it eliminates the storm window. The reason there’s a groove in the meeting rail is because of the shearing forces created by opening the window. The reason the caulk works top and bottom is because the pressure is direct and only presses the seal tighter.
Nice! -- QUESTION -- I am not sure I understand these windows, but I was told to NEVER replace them with plastic/fiberglass windows as wood is really a great material. But is single hung better than double hung? I was told that they are better since they are more weather tight or something? What is going on with these older style windows?
I love your videos. Very insightful. I have 9 wooden windows that draft from everywhere...I was thinking about replacing them with vinyl but I love the charm they add to my 100+years old house. Question: Is metal weather stripping as effective as PVC or synthetic strips? This house is in Michigan. Also, I am trying to understand how the V-shape strip works blocking air coming in. The trip for the upper sash has the open part of the V facing out and that makes sense. But I am going crazy trying to understand how the same position of the strip for the bottom sash would block the air. Wouldn't that open V shape let the air climb up the strip and let it in on the top right by where the two sashes meet? Thank you so much for all this information. This is truly an art form.
I have the same question for the bottom sash on my 1914 windows. I would guess that if the window fits sorta tight side to side, that would minimize any leak, but will still have a bit. To me that is a bit of fresh air during a stale winter here in NW Wisconsin. I have already done my doors and the bronze made a huge improvement.
Great videos. Very helpful. Although my glazing still comes out rough. One question. Where is the best place to buy spring bronze. Surprised at how hard of a time I am having finding it in Atlanta. I tried our monster ace hardware and they only had a 17’ roll. Thanks for any imput
I’ve nothing against interlocking. I’ve merely chosen this method here as something more easily obtainable to the masses. And even this is approaching unattainable. Price of spring bronze has almost tripled in the past year. Also with this stuff, there are still modifications to be made, just not as many. But there is one thing though, it’s the reason I use the silicone tube at the bottom - I really don’t like to cut a groove into the bottom of sash - it’s irreversible and can shorten the life span by attracting water into it. And I don’t like putting nails into the sill for the same reason.
Can you put bronze spring on the horizontal bottom of the window and top of the window instead of the silicon? I have been told that bronze sprint is really good and long lasting too. Out house has it from the 1940 build and when I wanted it changed the guy told me I would be crazy to remove it.
My 2nd story windows have a jamb strip with a channel instead of spring bronze. I was thinking of replacing with spring bronze instead and filling the channel in the sash with a 1/4" nylon brush type seal, like modern windows. Is this advisable, or would you recommend sticking with jamb strip?
You may have found this video already on his channel for installing spring bronze on casement windows: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-MoE74OrUwtA.html
Stainless staples, eh? I was looking for collated bronze brads or even 15 or 16 ga bronze nails with heads but never found anything. That's what's on my 95 year old house, but I guess they drove the nails one at a time (every three inches). The one strip i installed so far I pre-punched the bronze strip so I could stick a nail in the hole and get it started correctly. Very tedious. Seems weird you can't find these -- a brad or finish nailer would go much quicker.
Yeah. I was done when I saw 5/8" staples being used. The main issue isnt stainless steel, but the staples. Your on the right track though. A tiny brad is all thats needed here.
I can’t afford spring bronze. It’s just too expensive. Any ideas for cheaper (and yes, likely less effective) options? What about v-seal stick on weather stripping? Again, I love the bronze but it’s out of my budget. Thanks
There are all kinds of options at conservationtechnology.com where I get my tube seal. Check it out. I bet you can find something that fits your budget.
At 22:30 you show us how to caulk the top of the window and then place rubber weather stripping in that caulk to hold it in place. Why not use bronze stripping for that instead? Is it to reduce cost? Excellent video, thanks for showing us the entire process.
