Vacuum Bagging MDF Blocks for CNC Machining 

Sure beats clamps!

Yes. Clamps don't do a great job keeping air out of the bond-line which becomes a real headache when machining. With more complicated shapes bagging is more accurate and less work too. Check out the article linked in the description for more info - there's lots!

@@ExploreComposites damn! The article is a treasure trove of knowledge. I say this, because I am currently looking into MDF as a real option in making Carbon parts. I'll surely go through it. Thank you. Just a quick question, while curing the carbon fibre parts on the MDF mold, what is the recommended temperature range ? I couldn't find a decisive answer to this question

@@suyogdani2702 It depends on the process - I would try to stay below 95C or so because if you go above 100C the water in the MDF starts acting crazy. Of course vacuum impacts the boiling point a ton too but generally around 90C is ideal - or lower if you can. That said - for smaller stuff you can go higher especially if you thoroughly resin-coat the MDF - but your molds won't last long!

@@ExploreComposites nice! Thank you! :)

You can get standard MDF (1/2" and 3/4")at pretty much any lumber yard or Home Depot/Lowes type place. It will not be great and will be nowhere as nice as higher quality material but it will work ok if you seal it well with epoxy. The edges are really hard and the middle is flaky so finishing it is more of a challenge. The material here is Roseburg Medex (Rangerboard is good too) and it is a higher grade "moisture resistant" MDF that you will probably have to have a lumber yard order from a wholesaler. It is more expensive (2x as much or so) but it is very consistent in density and much easier to finish. Machines like butter! For commercial work it is totally worth it - for hobby stuff maybe not. Be sure to wear a respirator when cutting or machining MDF because the dust is nasty.