Hi, great job. I do similar stuff for rc cars, my advice is less sagging of the material and more pulling / stretching of the material by the vacuum. Mostly sagging is only 1/3 of the model height.
Heat the mold first! You should make a cavity on the bottom .(guessing) but cut out a 3"x 5" hole in the center of the wood that is attached to your mold. Then drill your fine tune holes to that cavity . That will give you extra pulling power plus heating the mold first helps a bunch because when you drop the sagging plastic on a cold mold it cools it to fast trapping unwanted air. Hope this helps you!
Where can you buy those acrylic sheets (PMMA)? , or plexiglass in the market? that are thermoformable. Is there a link or website to buy online? Thank you very much for the help, best regards
What are the dimensions of this unit? What is the material you are using at 1:56 to form the heater box? I am guessing it is some sort of ceramic. Did you find that there were any leaks when you use wood in the vacuum box?
Christian Lewis Many will use painted wood molds that are sanded and painted with a few matte layers to get a very smooth finish. Non ferrous molds work the best but will set you back a considerable cost.
ahojte , také jsem něco zkoušel a zatim sem se nepřiblížil ani trochu k jednom z vašich testů , takze vysledky mam 00nic , mohly by ste mě poradit co můžu dělat blbě , popřípadě kde by sme to probraly ? fb ? mail ? děkuji vám moc
Not in my experience. It does form little bubbles though. PETG is also easier to work with than polycarbonate (Lexan) due to the lower moulding temperature of around 125C vs 190C.
