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Love the way you explain stuff down to the bits you need to know and the things you might not work out for yourself without telling people stuff they probably know already. A real gift to us all.
Great vid. No unnecessary talking and good camera work. Small tip I might add is cover the oil returns before taking keepers off..JUST INCASE it’s drops and makes a run for one of the holes.
i love videos like these. makes my life easier when the pros show you how to get it done. then i don't feel like such an amatuer when taking my own stuff apart. thanks for helping me save money and make money fixing my friends and neighbors stuff. people tend to want to hold on to good running cars or trucks. why not? makes perfect sense to keep driving something that runs good.
I started working on engines around five years old, worked professionally for a while, have overhauls and ground up restorations under my belt, now a hobby, and I think your video is great!!!! You guys do a great job, really clear and you focus on the details really well with the video. Easy to follow uncluttered, Keep up the great work!!
Great video, very clear and concise directions and tips. Thank you I was worried it was going to be more involved than it actually is. With help from a mechanic friend i'm planning on tackling this later in the week.
Thanks!! I love that you can find these sorts of tutorials in here. This one was something I'd wanted to know because I'm having that issue now and it sure would be nice to take care of it myself
Great tutorial! I’ve read on different forums how everyone has a hard time with the keepers. The magnet worked perfect!! After the first cylinder I handled it like a boss!! Thank you, thank you!!
I have this same need, and this video pretty much told me exactly which tool to use, got that one, and how it's done. I had been told it was necessary to remove intake manifold, this video disproves that. Albeit, the left side two rear cylinders are a long reach, it seems by the time you get to that part, you should be getting pretty good with the Spring Compressor Assembly tool. Great video for this purpose.
Absolutely first class video - many thanks! Considering the vast knowledge that car mechanics need, they don't get paid anything like as much as they should.
I'm doing this job on my 08 Silverado and have watched several how to videos. They've all been helpful but yours is the most complete. I have no idea how much I will be saving doing it myself but I'm sure it's at least $500 or so , if I do it right of course! Thank you so much for this.
A guy at my work taught me that after you install the valve keepers hit the top of the valve with a brass or plastic hammer to make sure they are installed correctly. If they aren't they go flying. Better than putting it all back together, starting the engine and having it happen.
Very well done would have been seeing the finished product. I would like to see the whole job done. It gets hard reaching the very far valve seals with that spring compressor tool. It get tougher as you get to the rear of the engine. How come one guy doesn't get his hands dirty?
Maybe hes holding the camera?? As far as the job getting harder as you go deeper in the engine, yes that's true, sometimes life is hard, but here's an idea how about you thank this guy for dropping some knowledge instead complaining jerk?
Most Gen 1 Chevy small blocks didn't have seals on the exhausts because it's always under pressure, pushing the oil back into the V/C area, and the drip down after shut down wasn't much. That made those guides last a lot longer. Buick engines had little plastic umbrellas that rode up and down with the valve and never wore out, a genius design.
Great video. But one thing I would suggest to anyone doing this that it doesn’t say in the clip is to put a bit of oil in/on the seal otherwise you’ll end up with bad seals again in no time at all.
Should also mention to keep hands clear of all belts & pulleys. Some times the air in the cylinder causes the motor to turn over due to the air pushing the piston down. Just something to be aware of. Good video.But yeah, go behind the truck for personal adjustments!
what about putting the rockers back on? any special procedure? im watching other videos and people are doing it while the engine is running others are not. Whats the best way to reinstall the rockers and ensure the valves are adjusted? is there a video you can recommend?
If you happen not have shop air to do this kind of job, go get a spool of small nylon rope. This is acutally my perferred method. Bring the piston almost to TDC, then put a pretty good amount of the rope in the cylinder, but leave part of the rope hanging out of the spark plug hole to keep from having to fish it out of the cylinder. Then bring the piston to TDC. The piston will squeeze the rope against the valves, producing the same results as compressed air without risk of the engine turning.
older motors had ''umbrella seals'' they are in the same place but look like an umbrella. a smart tip to use if your engine is older or sat around much, is to check the height of your valve springs when they are off. good luck. :)
@EMPIRE0FLIES Yes I have heard of using rope. I also heard that you can coat rope with grease before putting it in the cylinder if you need to clean the spark plug threads or install a thread busing such as a Time-Sert. You then fish the rope out with a wire hook. Any metal particles that drop into the cylinder will probably stick in the grease and be removed with the rope. Those shade-tree mechanics were inventive!
Very helpful. Is it basically the same on the 5.7 vortec heads? I'm swapping the head gasket on a 99 suburban and will do this with the heads on the bench
Amazon has a camshaft seal tool set for R &R cam and crank seals. It is from Private Brand Tools. It looks real easy. It is for OHC engines. Also consider Big-sert kit from Amazon. It prevents blown out insert holes with regular inserts. This can prevent a huge problem later. It costs but its worth it. Hopefully it can be done with the engine IN the car. Get inserts from Amazon. They are various sizes. If you replace a insert that is regular size, use Time-sert, if it hasn't had an insert before
You will also need a compressor with enough output flow capability to constantly make up for any leakage past the rings and valves, especially in an older and worn engine. If not the pressure in the cylinder will constantly fall until it is all gone after the compressor's tank runs out. At that point you could drop the valve you are working on down into the cylinder.
