We replace the valve seals on the 1990 GMC k1500 GMT400 Valve stem seal set: SS 72877 and SS 72527 Overhead valve spring compressor: OTC stinger series 4573 Lisle 19700 Valve Holder: a.co/d/2GNQXsr
I've watched a few of these videos about replacing valve seals and other DIY auto projects and I have to say. Your video was one of the best one I've seen. You don't repeat yourself just to hear yourself talk you didn't get sidetracked about other projects you didn't make us watch useless video like taking off the valve covers (you got right to the point.) Perfect!! And because of that, I subscribed and liked and I'll definitely watch your videos again.
Gotta do mine on my yukon, driver side head is good but passenger side needs replacing especially the first two cylinders. I know this because when i pulled my plugs those two had the most build up, the plugs on the driver's side were perfect.
Thought I had to remove the heads and stuff. This looks like an easy job with the right tools. I'll consider doing this to my Iroc! Thanks for this video, really helpful!
I used those seals but they were garbage and leaked over time. I wound up putting on L31 / LT1 style valve stem seals. Yes they fit on the TBI heads. I just put each cylinder to TDC and let the valve drop and hit the piston. Was easy just took alot of time
@@SuburbanRanch Well.... Yours looked 100% rotted I noticed a slight puff sometimes after I dunno. 6-7500 or so miles. I forget. Did the job again. Used the LT1/ l31 seals and put on all new valve springs. TDC is awesome you can swap 2 cylinders at a time w/o repositioning the crank.
Valve lash needs to be set in order and engine needs to be started on top dead center on 1 cylinder then rotated and reset 90 degrees as you go in order for each valve
Good catch. That's how I set my lash - every 90 degrees in the firing order. You have to be on TDC on the cylinder your setting the lash on. He leaves that part out.
Thanks for the video..my 93 suburban has about 270,000 miles and does smoke alot at crank up and does smoke for a minute or so but not as I'm driving down the road and it seems strong even with 37's and stock gears...I hope the piston rings ar good because I cannot afford a new engine
Hate to break it to you but with that many miles you will need to afford a new car. If you get a little 4 cylinder you might have the same payment seeing as the suburban gets 12 MPG
I did this to '88 Chevy truck, several years ago. I am doing it again to another 350. I have watched a few videos, jut to refresh my memory, It seems to me, everyone is making the same mistake. The hose I have going into my cylinder is from my compression tester. It has a Schrader valve in the end of it. If you don't remove that, you're gonna be in trouble me thinks.
Thank you for the video, very helpful. I think I need to replace the valve stem seals on my 92, on cold startup it smokes for a couple minutes and when I rev it throws bluish smoke out the pipe so a bit of oil is entering the combustion chamber, once it’s fully warmed up it doesn’t smoke so i’m definitely sure it’s the valve stem seals because I don’t think it could be piston rings the spark plugs are clean no oil on them or the head gaskets there’s no oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil. It’s a 350 with only 127k miles so do you think it’s the valve stem seals?
OK fine, Yes you have reduced the oil leakage at the valve stems, BUT----, if you don't pull the heads and clean the years of carbon accumulations from your heads and valves, and replace the head gaskets, you will still be running an engine that is way down on power and fuel efficiency. When you do a complete top end maintenance, you will transform your tired old small block into the fire breather it was when new. Just try not to smoke your tires off having too much fun. If you had good compression before the carbon removal, along with good oil pressure, you will add another 100K + miles to your SBC.
The intake seal looks like a positive seal. Why doesn't the exhaust seal visually look the same. (Ive got an '88 4.3 and assuming it uses the same seals as a V8) ...im not talking sbout the color difference. It doesn't have the metal band like the intake. Great video. Also.... Isnt there quite a risk if you don't get the piston at exactly TDC and having the piston forced down when you apply pressure?
The exhaust seal is never under suction like the intake seal is. You definitely want to be careful not to drop a valve into the cylinder when changing the seals!
Ty for this video. About to tackle this project on my 97 Silverado. Just wondering what type of air compressor was used to keep the valve from falling down. I have a little cheap 80psi compressor. Not sure it'll keep continuous pressure while swapping the seals out tho.
I have a Chevy 88 s10 2.5 and replacing the gasket but I can’t figure out we’re the washers go and the Load spacers go and mine is a flat surface cover
Awesome video! I have a 1990 K1500 5.7 with TBI. In choosing valve stem seals for my truck/engine, would the same valve seal kits that you used work for my truck as well?
Big fan of the series u are doing on k1500. I have a 98 k1500. Going to do this valve job on mine soon. How big of an air compressor do I need to complete this job?
Looking to replace my valve seals on my 88” project truck. This will be my biggest DIY mechanic job lol. I had a few questions, how do you rotate the motor and how do you know when the piston is top dead center? And where do you get that hose to connect to the compressor to the spark plug thread? Any certain psi it should be on? Thanks!
Rotate the motor using a socket on the crank bolt, use the alignment mark on the damper to find cylinder 1 TDC and rotate 90 degrees from there, link to the hose is in the description, and I usually run my compressor around 90-100 psi.
I have a question on the exhaust seal.. do you just push down till it bottoms out or do you have to use a tool and hammer to compress down like the intake valve? Really need you help on that. Thanks!
Great information but I have a question.... What happens if oil intrudes at the bottom of the valve stem seal where it sits on the valve guide? Are the valve stem seals also sealed inside or is it just on top?
@@SuburbanRanch ,,I understood most of it,,but for plus value for apprentices 1,,you may need to dumb it down,,so to speak,,not calling anyone dumb,,but newbies don't always get it that easy..thanks..
@Steve Wolff We just gently pushed the o-ring into the second groove on the valve stem. The reason it was not in the video is because you couldn’t see anything except a hand and fingers haha. I think we said we’d get a better shot on the next one and never filmed it... if it gets into the first groove it slides out pretty easily down to the second groove.
Ok so I'm doing mine as we speak. Problem is that my 6 gallon 150psi air compressor drops down to 35psi when connected to hold valves up. Am I doing something wrong? I do have my piston up.
I’m gonna replace seals today. I have been mechanicing for many years but never had to deal with rocker arms and adjusting valves. Lemme get this straight…i put the rocker arms back on and tighten until they are just snugged up to the valve stems and push rods, then turn 1 full turn in order to compress the lifter slightly below its keeper clip. Doesnt matter what stroke the cylinders are on..right? As long as i snug and tighten 1full turn. Right?
@scooter The position of each cylinder is important. The valves need to be closed on the cylinder you are adjusting. You need to take up the slack in the pushrod (this is done by feel, wiggling it up and down) and then go another 1/2 to full turn.
I did the drivers side of valve seals without any issues, however when I got to the last one the air compressor would not push up the valve enough to put the new seal on. So I moved onto the passenger side and ran into the same problem. Anyone got any tips/tricks?
You can put some nylon rope in the cylinder through the plug hole , rotate the engine to compress the rope and it holds the valves closed. Then rotate back and remove the rope when you finish.
@Wesley Voltage Just a backup in case the compressor fails I guess. Holding up great so far but we haven’t driven it a ton as we started other projects on it.
You said you did the the first 2 off video so is the front 1 always the intake seal and the 1 next to it always the exhaust seal all the way down the line?
What grade of motor oil do you put in? I have a 1995 cheyenne 305 tbi 5.0-liter manual transmission 240 thousand miles I do not have the vehicle manual nor do I know what manual gear oil carries the climate where I live is warm. in winter it is 71.6 Fahrenheit
I have a 350 ZZ4 86 on. When my heads were skimmed and refreshed they put the blue seals you used on exhaust and inlet. I've noticed that 1 or 2 of them are partially lifting. Do they need replacing again? And which ones should I use on inlet and exhaust. Thanks.
@Jason Mellinship They used the same seals on intake and exhaust? That seems odd. I would expect different seals. The intake seal needs to be much tighter to prevent oil from being sucked in.
@Suburban Ranch Thanks for your reply. The machine shop put the same seals on the exhaust. In the Reinz kit I had there was 8 inlet with the metal rings and 8 umbrella type, those, I'm guessing, should have gone on the inlet. The ZZ4 has the late 80s alloy heads.
@Patrick R I’m not sure exactly what it’s call other than o-ring. Our seal set came with them. The part number is in the description, maybe you can get it from that?
I have a 99 K1500 GMC suburban and it appears the parts should be the same but the seals you list are listed as not fitting my vehicle. Curious why you list two different seals and not just one, should the seals for the intake and exhaust be the same?
@Nachoman The exhaust and intake valve seals are different. The exhaust valve seal is an umbrella style seal and the intake seal fits much tighter as it needs to seal against the engine sucking oil in on the intake stroke.
@@SuburbanRanch OK thanks, I found FEL-PRO SS 72861 which says it fits mine for intake/exhaust, but in the picture they all like the same guess maybe just the picture.
@@igende the intake and exhaust are the same on vortec heads which is what you have in a 99 suburban. That truck he is working on is a throttle body truck which does not have vortec heads.
My dodge spew out smoke only when you park and idle it for 5 or 10 minutes and then you rev it , thats when the blue smoke come out. Doesn’t really spew out blue smoke on start up . Would the be still valve stem seals leaking?
@@SuburbanRanch so by chance is it known on which two cylinders are aligned at tdc? So rather than going through each cylinder can you sequence two at a time? For example when cylinder 1 is at tdc so is cylinder 6, what are the remaining cylinders in sequence..
