@@Bad_Larry_Motors strong metal (aka bolt) vs soft aluminum (aka cyl head) with pressure on the threads... yeah, it survived for now, even if you managed to torque it to spec... You'd usually need just a few good threads, it's true, But if in a few months you'll hear a bunch of washers rattling inside... You know at least where it's coming from :)
I use an old harbor freight pry bar. It already had a teardrop shaped hole in it I can just slip over a nut on the rocker stud and lift up on the back to compress the spring. Had to grind away a half circle from the tines to clear the stem and reach the retainers, but it works a treat for springs up to about 80lbs, which covers just about everything I encounter working on small engines. Thanks for the upload 👍
Saved me 65$ as that's what the valve spring compression tool cost at Napa today when i went to pick up my parts (i realize that they are probably cheaper elsewhere but Napa is the only parts store within a hour of my house and i don't have a week to wait on eBay to ship one) thanks for the hack jack!
Now that's a hack I might actually use. Pure genius. Wonder what other engines you could do that on other than the ls engine shown. 7.3 powerstroke comes to mine. It's got a Rocker bridge that you could run a bolt in. Maybe in a small block using a nut on the rocker studs???
@@Bad_Larry_Motors no, because the valves/ valve springs on mine were seated with little clearance around them/ in like a shaft. Managed to get them out ok, but hell to get them back in. What I ended up doing was making a makeshift tool out of a bit of thick pvc pipe (a 1/4 cut out of it), with an alloy pipe as a collar to sit just over the top of the spring to hold it in place. A wood working clamp on this tool would compress the spring but hold the valve in place. With the section cut out of the pvc pipe, im able to use a small socket (like 8 or 10mm) and my finger to keep pressure on the 2 collets as I compress the spring - I could feel them click into place with my finger then unwind the clamp. Was a pain in the ass but worked.
@@Bad_Larry_Motors is a duratec out of a ford modeo, but motor is also common in mazdas etc too. Look up duratec 2.3L head and you will see what I mean 😅
A broken one would tick. I don't think it's possible for them to get stuck if they did you would bend a pushrod. Did you rotate the motor when you Torqued the lifters? I made that mistake and had a loose lifter that was ticking
@@Bad_Larry_Motorswhat do you mean rotate the motor? I changed both sides and driver side was never ticking only passenger but changed both anyway. But passenger side is ticking again A valve spring seems to be stuck
To replace the valve seal the spring must come off. So the homemade tool needs to come off. Which means the valve would fall into the cylinder unless it was air up. Video is a fake. Retired professional mechanic
😂 100% authentic. Compress the spring. Take the lock pins out. Remove tool remove seal, replace seal and new spring… I bought a cam swap kit from BTR and it cam with spring this is how I did it. Also I rotated the crank so the piston was at the top so the valves would fall.
Naw bro you are attempting to bust the threats on a part not centered and doing leverage.....just buy proper tool or even rent one....can't believe that you ppl can actually rent quality tools per day.... and you are doing the Cletus hacks we see in Latin America like putting bread to pilot bearings or this sort of things SMH 🙈
