Great video Mr. Frugal Factor. I find it easier if you start with an 1/8 inch drill bit and then follow with the desired size. Cutting oil helps too. De-bur after for a solid connection.
080921/1850h PST 🇺🇸 Thanks. Good idea to connect the 300A Battery isolator to the busbar. I learned yet another design. Preparing a template before drilling the precious Cu bar is highly appreciated. I do that too. Overall a good educational and practical presentation. Thanks again and stay safe. 73s…
Frugal Factor Hi! Thanks for the time and effort in putting out these videos. I am at a junction with the electrics in my project. A little direction would be much appreciated. My equipment so far includes: 3x 100Ah Renogy solar panels 1x 40A Renogy Rover Solar controller 1x Renogy DC to DC 40A charger 1x 100Ah Lithium Battery (DC to DC Charger) 1x 85Ah AGM battery (VSR- charging via alternator battery separately) 1x 3000W Renogy Inverter 1x 500A Renogy Battery Monitor with Shunt 1x 12v Bue Sea distribution fuse holder There is 4.7m between Starter battery - main lithium battery (100Ah). 1.5m between Starter battery - AGM battery (85Ah) The Van is factory fitted with double Ford starter AGM 85Ah and 80Ah batteries. It came with a VSR and xantrex 1400W Inverter wired up to these batteries. I am thinking of utilising this set up in conjunction with a lithium set up. The new 3000W Renogy inverter is intended to power up an Induction cooktop and other appliances. So a question could be, am I able to use 2 inverters, 1 inverter with an 85Ah AGM Leisure battery and 1 with a 100W Lithium battery? And If yes, what would be the simplest schematic? Also I intend to use a Busbar system as oppose to purchasing the Victron Lynx distributor (to save money). The busbar system you are using look very neat and tidy. In short, I would like to replicate your system but with the minor differences due my circumstances. Your assistance would be much appreciated. Keep doing what you are doing! Thanks in advance.
Great to see such DIY solutions! Allthough clean copper being a great conductor only (challenged by silver) in humid ( condensarion) environments risk of oxidation is there. Did you consider nickel plating copper parts with DIY nickel/vinaigre solution and low voltage electrolysis?
Nice idea. Never thought about that and it sounds like something I would do! But, it has been working as it for three years now, without any problems. All the videos divided by category can be seen at thefrugalfactor.com/
No problems so far. The electrical system has been in service for over a year, and we have traveled over 10,000 miles back and forth across the USA. In the next few weeks I will post a video reviewing the full electrical system.
Hi Frugal Factor.... Is it ok to connect the end of the positive cable of the solar charge controller to the busbar instead of the end of the positive battery cable? ... And then attach the positive cable of the battery to the other end of the ANL fuse?
080921/1931h PST 🇺🇸 Yes, that’s the way the positive cables of Charge Controllers (CC) are connected. The reason as to why CC positive cable is connected to the positive terminal of the Battery (before the ANL FUSE) is because in the unlikely event of ANL blows, the CC will still have the power, thus saving it from failure. You may then, isolate CC circuit through its CB (for servicing the fault) Remember, where ever possible, use of CORRECT DC Circuit Breakers MUST be inserted into the circuit. ANL fuses are good choice over CB, though some controversy over this subject is discussed. Stay safe and 73s…
080921/1919h PST 🇺🇸 Normally Cu bars come in 20mmX250mm sizes. The thickness varies to either 3mm/4mm. Cu bars (99.95% pure) are available from AliExpress. The buyer cuts the bar to the requirement by placing the black (ready made busbar strip) parallel and measured and a template made out of thin cardboard. With that info, drawings were made on the Cu bar and precise location of bolt holes were marked. Centre Punch was used to make dent for the drill bit, to avoid wander. Remember his job was very precise and accurate and neat. I hope you understood. I apologize for talking on behalf of the Author. Stay safe and 73s…
I purchased my bar from online metals the link is in the description. There are calculators online to determine the bar size, thickness and composition.
Hi, some advice, I need to extend an equipotential bar, is it possible to join it with two 8 bolts instead of doing it all over again? or is it not recommended? Thank you
You could do that. But I don't recommend it. I would start over, using one solid bar, and design if for growth. Another possibility is using both sides of the current Bus Bar. But I don't know if that is possible in your application.
@@FrugalFactor then in reality I have to remove the fuse coming out of the battery to remove it after the shunt, so I would like to join the sending part with two 3mmx20 copper bars, making them touch each other for 5cm
Where/how? Did you get the black plastic platform with bolts Sir...? Cause I've made some various sized buss-bars and now don't know what platform/holder use to install them. I've been debating on using wood cause that's all I can think of to use to attach them to, but just think it looks a little tacky/sorta-ugly in a sense 🤕😂
Why making a wood template? You could have make your bus bar directly... Moreover your 2/8' hole is not centered. Again I don't see the point. No need for a sharpie, a blue tape is much better and do not require cleaning. Honestly, I don't see the point of this video, except to say "how to make things more complicated?"
I make templates for future builds. Blue tape would work fine, and even assist in removing some of the copper filings. Just not the method I choose. So, if you want a complex way of doing things watch my other videos :-)
