Check out this Vapor Blaster from VHT - Vapor Honing Technologies - This machine is awesome!!! Check them out here: vaporblasterfo...?ref=5d5ae89a200d3 Tell them CT sent you! =) / ricerelics
CT Excellent video. You really explain a lot thank you! Ps. Can you tell me what model vapor hone cabinet you are using? And did you make a new video with testing out a more “aggressive” glass bead? Following man!
After using my wetblaster for a month I added a dryblaster to my arsenal. Using very fine but aggressive media like 120 aluminiumoxyde to get rid of rust and old paint faster than any wetblaster can with only minor damage to parts and afterwards I wetblast with ceramic or glass beads to get a nice looking surface. This takes only seconds instead of blasting 20 minutes, with great results and keeps the dirt out of the wetblaster. I minimized the flash rusting, since I do not have a rust preventive, by intensive dry blowing with a full pressure air nozzle and spraying parts with boesheald T9. This of course makes only sense with parts that will not be immediately coated with Cerakote or powdercoated where any grease needs to be removed.
For anything that is heavily oxidized you are correct. You will save your media in the wet blast by first going over it in a dry blast cabinet. I use a 120 glass bead prior to wet blasting. Add a rust inhibitor called Hold Tight 102 to your water and you wont have to worry with flash rusting on most metals. However on something cast it is still a good idea to blow dry them.
Lately seem to be doing more advertising expensive equipment than fixing the van. Think you already earned your discount from the various suppliers etc. Show us some renovation please.
We used the vapor honer where I worked. It was a brand new machine, just purchased and set up when i was there. There’s some over kill in this video on the amount of time cleaning one area but as you get used to it you’ll find it goes faster. Still slower than a shot blaster but less damaging to the part. One piece of advice, order another pair of gloves now and always keep a spare set. Those will be the 1st thing that will need to be replaced.
Buying a lot of cool tools. Deconstructing the bus and cleaning parts. That's cool. But soon would like to see you getting something put back on the van or sheet steel welded up.
It seems like a lot of those rusted bolts and other small parts would be just as well off in a vibratory tumbler that can work its magic while I'm doing other things.
I think you can use baking soda in that system. What the continuous run valve does is it activates the unloaders in the heads of the compressor so that when the compressor reaches the set pressure the unloaders will hold the intake disc valves open and prevent the compressor from doing any work. Some Quincy compressors have this feature.
Thanks for the demonstration. IMO I'll stick with my traditional Media Blaster! This unit was most probably much more expencive, plus there's the added step of knocking off the flash rust with a wire wheel or whatever B4 paint. But I'm glad you're satisfied and happy with it! ...Newk from Kentucky
Hey Newk! There are some really nice dry blasters on the market as well. I'm still figuring out how to use this one. The rust inhibitor will keep the parts from flash rusting. I just have to figure out how to use it the right way so it works. Stay tuned!
@@CTmoog Use a dip tank with the Rust inhibitor in it. This will rinse off any debris, prevent the flash rust as well as not use /lose the inhibitor as fast as in the machine.
You could hit the parts with a wire wheel before putting them in the sand blaster, that way the blaster doesnt have a large layer of rust to cut through. Even soaking the parts in rust remover can work too. And I like your vapor blast set up by way, no dust is a plus! 😁
Much faster and less labor intensive to batch clean and recondition fasteners with Eastwood’s vibrating tumbler, using the correct media, then cleaning product and then after treatment with a polishing media. Phenomenal results before plating or phosphate treatments as appropriate. Vapor blasting is good for aluminum to avoid surface damage that might otherwise occur with glass bead or other dry media.
Hi Thank you so much for an interesting and educational program. I have a 1961 type 2 split window van in thousands of individual parts :) that now needs to be cleaned. Sandblasting takes a lot of time. My experience is that it is faster to clean in several steps. 1) Clean with scraper and brush. 2) Then use a degreaser. 3) If painted use a paint remover. 4) If a lot of rust use a rust remover. 5) Now you can blow much faster and with better results. I use sand for steel parts and soda for light metals and parts that cannot withstand rough surfaces. Greetings from Norway Torstein Olsen
Vapor blasters are great. We use larger units for industrial use. To keep your parts from rusting use HoldTight. We use Graco Vapor blaster units. Thanks for the vid.
That's a great piece of equipment CT. It does a nice job and it'll pay for itself for sure. Also the fact that its going to save a lot of time as well. A win win!
Harbor Freight tank sand blaster, old cooler or plastic tub and sheet of 5 mil plastic or tarp. Using a 50 pound bag of fine coal slag from tractor supply at less than 10 bucks a bag. I recapture most then run thru alum screen and use again. Does great job and its cheap. For what that machine costs you could be using dry ice blasting.
So ironic that grit (grit scratches paint), air and water makes rust and a machine uses them elements to clear rust. lol. Great work and the pieces come out cleaner than just air and grit. The pieces look practically new in comparison. :)
I recon vapor blasting is the best for small parts way better than anything thing else. Ive been amazed what can be done, even plastic electrical stuff like fuse boxes come up really well
Wet blasting is good for home use because if you dry blast you will need a air dryer unit on your compressor. If you dont use a dryer the blast unit stops working when the damp air comes through.
So, yeah, that's sort of wet sandblasting.. Very effective as it seems, I have no experience with wet blasters yet. Personally I prefer it dry, as the water gives you flash rust and sometimes it's better to avoid it. It's kind of relaxing to me also looking at the work beeing done and the nice results. Just pay attention on the carburettor aroud the vents and keep them from clogging with abrasive.. Mixed with water in tight spaces sometimes gets nasty. =) Excelent work, Mr. CT, keep on!
Hello my friend. Dry blasting and wet blasting do have some pros and cons. I think once I figure out how to use the rust inhibitor I can keep them parts from flash rusting. Thank you! Stay tuned for more!
hi CT, indeed your sandblasting water works perfectly. but hopefully you can also stand up. If you are going to redecorate rusty you first do old parts with your water blaster and refurbish you do not immediately buy new parts. Then you save even more money for your project! This is my opinion.
Unless it was thin sheet metal. I would start with a 60 grit media. It won't damage parts like the bearing retainer or the pulley. One of the advantages of vapor blase is that it is not as prone to warp flat sheet metal panels as minimal heat is generated. Dry the parts immediately after blasting with an air hose, You can't just let them air dry without rust formation.
What a great piece of equipment you are certainly getting good stuff always the way to go, looking forward to you doing more work on Rusty Regards Mike in the UK
Now all those bolts and nuts we be so susceptible to quickly rusting..Painting helps. but maybe you should look into nickel plating for the bolt heads or even the whole bolts, threads and all to prevent threads from rusting together. Nickle plating is easy... lust look it up. Then when you assemble the beast, spritz them with clear lacquer. You'll feel so proud of yourself when you show your work....Just sayin...Mike
so I take it that a sonic bath is on your list to buy if you are going to be doing carbs regularly. cleaning the jets and ports will be difficult with the vapor blaster lol
Hey Jon! Yes, I will be ordering one soon. This is true. That sand will get into all the jets and will have to be cleaned out. Thank you! Stay tuned for more!
So all I know after watching 15 minutes is that Vapor Honing just requires an air hose connected to the machine and then start blasting. Nothing about water hook up or blast media or water drain.Not a good intro.
Wow, that's cool CT. Really cleans up the smaller parts. Like you said the more aggressive media should work faster but on the thicker parts. As far as Rusty you'll have to take it somewhere like Classic Car Restorations. They have a isolation booth to shoot the entire vehical.
On a part like the four bolt flanged bearing holder, what effect does this type of cleaning have on the bearing fit? Is it possible or even easy to be too aggressive and end up with a loose fit of the bearing?
If you mix up a diluted solution of Phosphoric acid (available at Home Depot) and dipped yout parts in it, it will leave a phosphate coat on the parts that offers some rust protection. In the auto paint world it's known as Metalprep, and will set you back way more than the Home Depot version. Phosphoric acid is blue so your rust preventer is likely phosphoric acid too. if you dont rinse your parts in the cabinet , but let them air dry, then wash them off with water, I think you will get better results regarding flash rust.
Hi CT, looks like a great system, bet it would be pretty pricey here in OZ. If it was me doing this I would protect the machined areas even though you are using fine grit. I would also dry the parts straight out of the blaster then put something like WD40 on it, so as to prevent the rust forming. Otherwise great vid and would love that unit.
Continous run is when it gets up to pressure instead of the motor shutting off a valve opens and the pump. Unloads .it saves all the current th motor uses on. start up and the pump cools down
The pump keeps running but the heads are unloaded to take the pressure off. I have a 7.5 HP 3 cylinder 2 stage Eaton that has the same feature. I had a 120 gal tank, so purchased the pump and motor separately. I can't believe how quiet it is.
I'm very interested in vapor blasting so it was interesting to see the results based on the grit you're using. One thing though, what is the point of an air dryer, when your water blasting?
Hello, It's a great machine I love it. I use the dryer for the pressure regulator. I didn't realize at the time it was a dryer too. You just need the regulator.
Great video CT! Like the Polar compressor we have the same unit, workhorse! The vapor blaster is so nice unlike our ole media blast cabinet thats sooo dusty! Thank you!
I watched this very closely but I never did see anything about the aggregate that is being used.. You did say that there are different grits, but, how is it introduced into the process??? Where is it collected? Is it reusable and how mich does it take??? Seems like a very cool peice of equipment but is it more cost effective in the long run???? I would like to have more information from someone that has actually used it to make a good decision about it....
@@msengineeringdavid3148 There is a bath with baffles like a grease trap. The grit and dirt settles behind the 1st and 2nd baffles and on the other side of the 4th baffle there is a pump which runs the liquid back into the tank. Some are fitted with a ball valve to keep the reserrve liquid topped up.
Because I don't know what I'm doing! =) You don't need to remove the moister. I purchased that unit before I released what I needed to order. You only need the pressure gauge. Thank you! =)
I'm using plaster sand (cheap) and a high-pressure water washer with the sand attachment on my lawn (basically dustless). I'm finding that the steel/iron parts flash rust before my eyes. What do you do if you want to paint the stuff? Suspension and motor parts are fine but what would you do to stuff that needs a nice painted finish? Is there a primer or something available? Thanks!
Looks like it works pretty awesome! Looks really high pressure did it distort the little piece of engine tin you did? Great vid as always! The carb is a cool test as you’ve got multiple types of metal on 1 piece. Thanks for sharing!
Good to know what tools/machines to help with restoration CT !! Will make restorations run move smoothly as saves going out and paying someone to clean parts etc good luck !!
one thing about sandblasting cabinets is the glass (or plastic shield protecting the glass) is constantly becoming opaque. does a vapor blast cabinet have the same issue?
The cast bearing housing is probably made of iron which has a high carbon content. Iron will rust quickly. If it’s too big a problem then wipe the pieces dry with an absorbent cloth and perhaps even put them out in the sun after drying.
It seems like a lot of water, electricity, and time is used for what seemed to be a negative investment especially when you factor in the cost of the total layout. Maybe current options are limited when it comes to larger applications.
