I helped fix a car after it was cooked. The oil and filter had been changed. We had no oil pressure after a recon head was fitted. Finally found we had parts of an oil valve missing. Without the valve, the oil runs directly into the sump.
I am so grateful for this video, I was scratching my head as to why my car oil light would not go off, it was just an simple oil and filter change! Now I know, thanks to you. I really appreciate your taking the time to post your experience, I am sure others will benefit from it as well. Thanks again!!!
@@JohnB-2021 Hey John. Thank you too man. I also have been scratching my head that this occurred immediately after an oil change. Going to take a look at it today but pretty sure that this is going to be the problem.
Thank you for this. I had to put new gaskets on my oil cooler today. I found that at the bottom of the filter housing, and thought it was a piece of junk that had somehow got lodged there. I pulled it out, put everything back together, filled with oil and started her up. I had the horrible clicking noise from the engine as well as the red oil light. I have searched the internet for hours and finally came across this. Fortunately I still have the part and will be able to rectify tomorrow. Again, many thanks.
John thank you mate. I pulled the oil filter housing off and that is PRECISELY what happened. Managed to jerry-rig it back in, and now it's perfect and I got to it before I totally screwed the engine. thank you. I wouldn't have ever diagnosed that. Although in retrospect, given that it occured directly after an oil change I should have twigged. Thankfully they can be had for about $70 these days..
Actually I just saw your link. There are two parts included in that. I'm a little confused. The astra nut that holds the oil filter assembly to the block, is that supposed to be replaced by the larger of the two pieces? Or is it that you just get the two but just need to use the smaller of the two?
Excellent news Frank, you can see the trouble I went to stripping down the whole engine and replacing the oil pump etc. There are different parts depending on the engine, you only need the little part. Some cars have deeper oil filters etc... If it's sold in a kit, you can replace both. PS, just looked at the current link and feedback, it looks like there is a silver retaining ring, pretty sure that needs to be removed before installation. It's obvious to be but maybe not to everyone.
Thank you John excellent job you posted the importance of the oil filter check or drain valve unfortunately friend of mine while I was standing next to him while he was doing oil he couldn’t figure out where the valve should with cover so he placed the new filter without the drain valve. For 4 days we were guessing may the low oil pressure is from the switch until I saw your video then I remember what you said. 😢 it was nightmare the Ourisman Alexahdria Chevrolet dealership charged me for diagnostic with even looking at filter they said they can’t silence the low pressure alarm I need to buy a new motor.😂
Hi John. It's 3:43 am in Arizona and I have been pulling my hair out over my Saturn Astra. My car has been sitting for 6 months parked for fear of blowing up the engine. I saw the Ali link and pictures of the park and now know how to fix the problem. Thank you so much. 😘
@@JohnB-2021 I looked at it today ... Thank you for the New Year gift! How do you get the part out? The part on alibaba has a metal base. I pulled the small plastic part out after removing the plastic cooling tower. I grabbed it with some needle nose pliers and gentlely pulled directly from the filter cartridge housing. There was no metal base as shown in the alibaba part. Do I need to remove the entire filter cartridge housing and press out the metal base, or just replace the plastic part? I haven't ordered the part yet from alibaba. Can I send you anything from the USA? How can I repay you? 😁 Please let me return your kindness. You are "The Man"!
@@smallfry8788 I’m lost. If the old part is still there, you don’t need a new one. The old valve simply pulls up. I understand the new one has some metal housing that needs to be removed.
@@JohnB-2021 The old one only had one retaining leg. The other two legs that secured the part in place were missing. I have pulled the part out with a pair of pliers but it has missing retaining legs. The metal part remained in the oil cartridge housing.
@@JohnB-2021Sorry for all the question. Yes, the old one just pulls up and it looks like I don't have to use the metal part on the incoming new part. Let me know if there is anything I can do for you!
You just saved me from a potential nightmare! I changed the oil cooler/oil filter housing due to the oil mixing with coolant and afterwards the top end was rattling due to low oil pressure. I took the oil filter out and the valve in the aftermarket housing wasn't seating properly so I managed to swap the valve from the old one and have oil pressure again! Without your video, I'd have been taking it all apart again so thank you so much!
Hi , I replaced oil filter housing but mine used to do that before , basically once cold started revs go up to 1500 and oil light blinks for split of a second , do you think it could be caused by oil relief valve ? Many thanks
Hi, just came across this problem on an Astra J. 2011 A16XER engine. Replaced oil cooler and filter housing, fired up the engine. When coming up to temperature oil pressure warning came on and engine starts sounding like a bag of old spanners. After spending a day and a half I was utterly mortified. Anyway I found your video and managed to swap out the little plastic valve off the new cooler/housing for the one out of the old one. Engine fired up and immediately sounded right. I'm still a bit concerned that the valve might go bad so ordered a couple of new ones through eBay from China, but so far so good. Just wanted to say thanks for posting this as I was just about ready to burn the frigger out. Cheers pal.
Thay little plastic valve off bit comes with the new oil cooler/filter housing tho? Why put the old one into the new one?? im having the same issue and its doing my head🤣🤣
It wasnt actually that expensive in all fairness but kelvin says he replaced the oil cooler filter housing and still had the same problem im wondering why using the old valve off solved the issue he was having.
@@JohnB-2021 i got broken oil pressure swicth wire before.I was fix it, and oil light continously ON in idle. . So noisy tapping like a diesel engine 😖
@@nikonianist Thank you again. Before finding the fault on a friend's car, i changed the oil switch, dropped the sump and checked the bearings, big and main bearings and changed the oil pump too! I had heard the oil filter was changed and we found a small spring in the sump, that is when I checked the new filter and found the problem. Never had any such device on Ford or Iveco.
I got the low oil pressure warning after replacing the oil cooler. So I replaced the oil pump, but it still pops up along with engine noise. I’m going to take a look at what you recommended tomorrow, thanks
Thanks man also have similar issue with my chev cruze oil light was coming at idle..l thought its a oil pump at first replaced oil pump and oil switch bt still having same problem...Thanks a lot
I have Astra 1.7 cdti...had same case of oil level indicator turned on on low rpm after oil and oil filter change. After seeing this video I opened oil filter housing, only on this car it's a bit different. Didn' t find anything inside, although I would say that plastic central cage is partialy broken. Then I remembered that old filter didn't came off too easy, but new one came on with no pressure. At that time I didn't think it was important. But it is. I mounted back old filter and everything is fine now. Apparently it has to be tight so no air can come through, than it can build up the pressure. Gonna have to do some precision measuring before bying next new filter. Hope this helps someone.
Thanks a lot for this video. It is the only source I could find to fix my issue. Lost oil pressure after oil change and found the valve I did not know exiated with broken legs and dislodged so all oil was going down the drain. Now I am waiting for replacement part and running with the broken to plug the hole. My cam adjusters make slight knocking noise when hot. Could I have damaged them while starting the engine with no oil (at least 10 times).
@@JohnB-2021 Not for long time but I revved it one tkme to about 3k in desperation. I hope the problem now is a bit lower oil preaaure than optimal due ro the damaged valve. I won't run the car anymore like that. I wonder if i just tap and plug the hole permanently wont it be better. I dont see any point in this valve other than drain the dirt that the filter has collected in the sump and save the oil cooler from over pressure. Both are in the realm of " lets make it more perfect" in my view.
These are very problematic cars that are best avoided. On my Astra, the sound of the chain is heard, often at low revs, when starting and while driving. Opel/GM invented a gasket under the chain tensioner, but I find information that even after installing that gasket, the problem with the chain can often return. My question is, maybe the main problem is not in the gasket and chain tensioner, but in the oil pump that does not create strong enough pressure at low rpms. And can the pump be set to give higher pressure, since it is variable and dependent on rpm?
Hi have the Z18XER. Never had issues. Serviced it a month ago. Started it 2 days ago at work to warm up and it purred. 3 miles from home the light came on and was tappy when I got home. The sump full. Engine turned off. Id recently changed the oil pressure switch. Only can think the oil pump, the sump.pick up or oil filter valve. But what a pain i cant buy a new valve separately. Ive ordered a new housing and filter. Such a pain of a job. But thanks for the heads up. Also good to share tips on issues
Hi Jhon, I also had this problem on A14net engine. Low oil pressure and the paper filter collapsed and the engine damaged. I later repaired the engine and changed the entire filter housing, but again had problems with pressure.
In having similar problem. Cleaned the sump and strainer still giving a tapping sound once it warms up think I'll clean up the oil filter housing .new filter again and new oil .
Gday from Australia John, it seems this has been my issue on my 2010 jg petrol Cruze , slight rattle from cam VVT area on initial start up, was worse depending on time it was stood? Oil light delay in going out ?thought as others did that it was oil pump, anyway took oil filter out tonight and found the valve was broken, luckily spring was still there but bottom had gone,I have ordered new valve, I’m hoping that will cure start up noise and give improved oil pressure ??? Saved me a heap of money if this works , thanks heaps 🚗🚗🚗🚗, just to add , I was getting code 79 as an error message, could this be associated with low oil pressure ?
I have a 2007ish Z14XEP and now I understand why there were two different oil fliter types for my year of car - mine is the earlier type. Mines been pissing out oil recently but the oil pressure switch was clean when I checked, so no leak there. Oil pump must be okay because it was pumping the oil to whatever was causing the blockage that's making it piss out the oil. Basically its not returning back to the sump. Initially I thought it was block oil ways in the rocker cover but I see here that it could be something much more annoying... I wonder if there's a way to switch back to the old can type oil filters.
just got mine back from vauxhall after it's health check and warrenty work Car has only done 11,251 miles, when i collected the car this popped up low oil add oil. Oil all over low part of engine.
I just started having low oil pressure warning light after turning each corner. It goes off in 4-5 secs.The oil level is right. It's an Astra H with the Z16XEP engine. I couldn't find any comment complaining about the same issue. My theory is that the pump doesn't suck the oil from the bottom of the sump through the pickup pipe but through some crack or failed sealing at a higher location still under the surface of the oil. Is it plausible considering the structure of the Z16XEP engine?
Your theory is very plausible though I have not seen that problem. The sump is full of baffles and not empty like old cars. There are hidden screws in deep holes which is handy to know if you want to remove the sump.
@@JohnB-2021 Hi! I removed the oil pan and found nothing wrong down there. No crack on pickup pipe and the sealed connections are above oil level anyway. Now my theory is that the oil gets trapped up at the camshaft and cannot fow back freely into the sump causing temporary low oil level only when the engine operates. How about that? Any idea how to check that?
@@attilapolos2332 For that theory to work there would have to be a sump full of oil under the plastic cam housing. I doubt that can happen. Since you have the sump off, check the end float in the crankshaft.
John it looks to be intact but does it come out through the top into the housing (if you want to check it) or will it be destroyed if you try to remove it that way. Looking at your video clip its the 2 pronged end that points upwards into the housing.
The 2 prong should be 3 prong, I wrote saying it was from a car breakers and broken. (1 leg) the 3 prongs should face down. It should lift out from the filter housing if you want to check it. There is a link in 'show more' that someone posted here for just that part.
I have the low oil pressure light come on when the car hasnt been used in a longer while and its very cold but I thought it was to do with that horrible O ring seal at the sump that the Insignias suffer from
I'm currently having same issue with my zafira 2.0 cdti 2015 only in cold just recently start doing it when I start the car from cold my engine is A20dth same as insignia
Where do you get these valves, I have oil light on at tick over then when I put power on the light goes off. Would suspect the valve now that I've watched this clip.
Sorry spell check struck on my last message and didnt notice in time. I'm guessing that plastic valve is not something I can do in situ or even by on it's own.
Hi John thanks for the reply it all looks intact and as it should be inside the housing that spring pushes up and down (gently). With a new genuine oil filter and a new pressure switch the light wouldnt even go out so I put the old pressure switch back and it's back to somewhere around 200 revs it goes out. Doesnt rattle or overheat drives well but I dont trust it. Going to try flushing with that Aqui Moly stuff incase. I thought the wire might be the problem but then why would the light go out at all.
I think I have this problem. When idling or at low revs oil light comes on and the engine makes a very loud knocking sound. When driving the oil light and the sound goes away. I took it to a garage and they said there is an oil blockage somewhere and they need to find it, which can take a lot of time and money. Your problem sounds very similar to mine. I’m on a 2007 1.8 Astra. My question is this something someone with little knowledge of car mechanics could fix themselves or would it be worth just paying the money to get the garage to do it. (I can follow guides and am doing a degree in engineering so not a complete alien to stuff like this.) Thanks!
Your pump is probably knackered and at idle RPM can't provide enough pressure to close the return valve. Whereas at higher RPM the oil pressure will be just enough to close it and feed the engine. I'm dealing with one of these engines where the filter cart disintegrated and got pumped round the engine, blocking the main feed to the de-phaser solenoids - it sounds like a bag of nails. One quick way of checking you're getting oil being delivered to the head is to take a solenoid out and see if oil pumps out when you turn over. Try telling people to spend £80 a year on a service after you hand them an £1800 bill to fix the problem (and still charge them for a service).
This video shows why many people lose oil pressure after an oil filter change. Other than damaging the valve in the oil filter housing, there are many other reasons for losing oil pressure and I show 2 of the reasons. i.e. worn bearings, worn oil pump etc.
I just had the same problem. New oil filter was 1mm ( mill ) shorter than then old one, so it didn push enough on the spring valve.... its sunday, put in the old one as i have nowhere to buy new one, everything is fine...
@@IgorBjelošević-v8t I have an Corsa, oil and oil filter change, and Im getting that error.. P06DD, low oil pressure, solenoid valve.. the filter was BOSH, I install again the OEM, and light came up again.
@@IgorBjelošević-v8t I reinstall the OEM filter again, and same problem after clear errors, I Drive some miles and light comes up again, I Will go to the dealer and do a oil and filter change to see if fix
I've got the same problem with my astra 2019 1.6 cdti changed oil and filter now 4 miles of driving says oil pressure low turn the engine off . And a rattling noise started . What could it be ? Thanks
Hi John I think I have same problem. Can the valve be fitted without replacing the whole thing. Even if I have to buy the whole cooler from vauxhall. Fitting will be way cheaper
A update, bear in mind I have no idea what anything is called. I replaced the thing that looks like a dongle with a little switch on the end I still have reduced power and same code. Have I changed the right part. The new dongle is wobbly , the mechanic said it meant to be but I'm not to sure.
Hi John yesterday I changed my oil and oil filter but after that the warning keep coming low oil pressure stop engine..when I seen your vedio I understand that it is because the mechanic didn't pull out the oil filter correctly he pulled out the spring also . My question is that is there any problem If I drive my car for some mile..and without replacing oil filter housing we cannot do anything else like... can we can buy only the spring now.
Hi John thank you for the reply I will go to the garage and find the spring maybe it's with the old filter when they removed so if I found that I can fix inside the oil filter housing is it will work?
What engine does this apply to? I have the Z14 XEP (Twinport) from the Corsa C and Tigra B, and I'm getting an oil leak right behind the catalytic converter, on the right hand side of the engine. Pressure switch replaced, rocker cover gasket replaced (both needed doing), and there's no leaks from the sump or between sump and transmission. Yet a significant amount of oil is still splashing on the back of cat close to the oil filter housing, enough to burn off and cause smoke at operating temp. After shutting off engine the oil drips under the car. Would this cause this problem?
Hello great video! I have a corsa 1.3 cdti 2009 I have a black spring for the filter but I did not se a silver spring with plastic bit. I recently performed an oil change on my car, and upon starting it for the first time, the oil pressure light did not illuminate. However, upon starting the car for a second time, the light turned on and remained lit. Suspecting that I may have installed the oil filter incorrectly, I refitted it, but the issue persisted. I have noticed that the oil pressure light turns off after revving the engine to 2000rpm, but upon restarting the car, the light turns back on. Despite the illuminated light, the car is running smoothly and there are no abnormal noises. Upon researching the issue, I came across a post from an individual who had a similar problem with an oil filter from the MANN brand, and resolved it by replacing the filter. While I am unsure if this solution will work for me. The oil pressure switch/sensor does not leak. I would be great full if any one could help.
@@JohnB-2021 Thanks for your respond.When I change the oil filer I did not see the black plastic bit. Only parts I saw is the black spring. I dubbel checket my old oil filter if some thing was where but no nothing stuck.
i see there is a small hole in the oil filter housing to the left of the pointy thing on a spring is that supposed to be open, there is a small amount of oil in the housing but not much, same engine 2008 1.3 cdti
Does this valve problem causes an irritating sound as well? It just happened today and they told me from Opel not to move the car until the service arrives..
@@toy2day1 With low oil pressure, your cam gears will start making a loud tapping, slapping or maybe a banging noise. That's assuming you have the VVT engine. If not, maybe it's just cam noise due to lack of lubrication. PS, how does a service arrive? I have to take my car to a garage to have it serviced. Have you had any work done on the car before the light came on?
Currently i've the same problem (and not solved yet). Does it the missing part of valve block the oil flow into the engine parts (bearing, piston, crankshaft, etc.)? So how the mechanic remove/clean it?
@@JohnB-2021 when i remove the filter from the housing, the valve already fallen out of place and its legs no more, all 3 legs. And i didnt found them. Are they enter to the oil tunnel? Or, is there some 'chamber' between housing and oil tunnel (so the missing parts are traped there)?
@@RideToLive102 i just got mine off ebay i think £3.95 it does take about 3 weeks tp come but fitted it today so far no knocks at start up like i would get
@@kenwarriner69 yeah everywhere I searched appears to be taking an absolute age for delivery and any listers I rang with the part number they only sell the whole housing, money making scheme. Mine only rattles the first 2 secs of start up where it fills with pressure and distributes oil to the screaming lifters...annoying
Good evening John, I have an oil pressure light that comes on after about 20 mins at idle, if I give it revs it goes out, as soon as no revs it comes back, I have changed the oil pressure sensor, new oil and filter, have taken the sump off, no sludge etc, oil strainer seems fine, could it possibly be the spring you mention in the oil filter housing? If so can I take it out to clean it? Many thanks
@@JohnB-2021 thanks for getting back to me mate much appreciated, now thinking of it though, I don’t think I have that valve in my oil filter housing, I have a 1.3 cdti 2013
I'm currently having a similar issue with my astra h vxr (z20leh engine), I noticed the oil light has been intermittently coming on and off, I took the relief valve out and it was all free moving etc. Is this the bit you show in the video?, after I done an oil and filter change I noticed there's no oil getting to the turbo oil feed pipe
hi John I have got a Vauxhall Astra eco flex 2016 diesel I changed the oil filter on my car and I noticed that the valve it’s very loose, is it normal?Do I need to remove the oil pan to replace the valve?
Hi I have this problem and on computer is coming P06DE-00 ..engine oil pressure control solenoid valve stuck on ..I change the sensor but is still not run..What can I do?Some times coming on ENGINE POWER REDUCED I cannot go more then 3000?thank you!
Hi John. I recently purchased zafira tourer C. After reaching temperature low oil pressure light comes on. Car sounds fine after warm up but I still gets warning. I changed oil filter, oil pressure sensor and new oil Castrol 0w 30. I don't know what to do. My engine is A14net 1.4 turbo. Any thoughts
Hi Moses, That sounds bad news. As the engine warms up the oil gets thinner / less viscous. My first guess is you have a high mileage car and the bottom end is worn. You could try a heavier grade oil before stripping down the bottom end. Probably why the last owner sold it.
@@JohnB-2021 Thanks John for the reply. Car is 2015 reg done 33000miles. After warm up it does not make any ratting sound from the bottom end. I bought the car at auction. I changed oil filter and changed oil to 0w 30 to all oil pump to ease circulation. The car runs fine don't make any noise just a low pressure warning light. When I got the car the oil filter was really filthy. I don't know what to do
@@mosesjohnson9979 wow not many miles. Go for a thicker oil first. If that does not fix it, start by removing the sump and checking the oil pick up. Let me know what you find.
@@JohnB-2021 I will try that . I am suspecting three things 1. Oil cooler assembly 2. Clogged sump pan 3. Oil pump . I will try to change the oil. On starting the engine cams chatter and then after 4-5 sec the engine gets quite.
I have the same symptoms on a Vauxhall combo d 1.3. 2017. I fitted a recon Turbo as it was seizing up. Only done 77K but oil light no problem before. I was paranoid about pills starvation so took the oil feed pipe off and checked it was clear and where it bolts to the housing I put a plastic ball pump fitting in the hole and pumped by hand to make sure it was clear. Seemed fine all black together runs fine and drives very well but same thing. Oil light on up to 1500-2000 revs. Changed oil and filter 3 times new pressure switch did go out even at 4000 revs so put other back. Failing engine flush this seems only thing left but am wonder what blowing air with hand pump could possibly do inside the housing. Not had any probs with van other than Turbo and this. Very annoying.
I am having this issue with my engine A14net has just been rebuilt the mech has it now for 5 days and cannot find the issue oil pump seems to be ok they said they checked pressure, valve is in place and operational any other options you can suggest?
@@WesleyPereira-sn6vm Assuming you have no blocked pipes, the first place to look is in the sump. Is the strainer clean and if it is, is the pipe air tight? If air is getting in, the oil pump gears can’t pull up the oil. Take out the oil pressure switch and see if a small amount of oil comes out.
@@JohnB-2021 because theres only 2 or 3 answers to low pressure and low lubrificate.search for a day on forums,and a fried mine ask me?what you did??..and i sayd,only change the filter and put in there...in my case it was when i put the filter,wrong order... the by-pass valve it was open a little and the pump dont goes to the right pressure,danificate the cam followers.so now i have to change that.but yes it was a little bit curious to me,second time change oil,and not know theres a by-pass on house filter..stupid things..not make sense because theres an valve relief on pump too..and more curious the car dont warning low pressure,only damage the cam followers and lost power and gets noizy...it was an week ago,now i have to spend more money to bring back to normal.bad proceedures because not many ''mecanics'' knows theres a by pass on filter. Your video for me it was the awnser too my question,but i will measure the pressure first and test this tread and post my conclusion. Thanks for your atention,kind regards
@@niltoncesar9450 Where in the world are you? I was in the same position, Google showed all the wrong answers. How can an oil pump fail just because the engine over-heated. How can the big ends fail just because the engine over-heated. I knew someone else had changed the filter so I checked it and found a spring in the hole. I said to a friend helping, there is only one reason for a spring to be there and it must form part of a valve to drain the oil when the engine is off. Don't forget to hit 'like' :) PS, I see many other people have the same problem and one guy even sold the car because he could not find the problem. I've worked on hundreds of different cars over 25 to 30 years and never seen a valve in the oil filter housing. I worked for Iveco / Ford for 23 years and never had an oil pressure problem because they do not have a valve like Vauxhall Opel.
@@JohnB-2021 im from portugal,and im only a courious,the car is from my sister and he ask me to change the oil. it pass two years i change all the joints because the car get water on oil,and pressurize the water tank,so i did change all the chains and joints and no more problems,this year she ask me to change again the oil and i forgot the filter must be put first in the cover and before on housing, and i put in reverse,maybe the valve didnt close enough and by-pass the oil to the pump instead go to head, and with no oil pressure enough, the car started to damage the cam followers.so i search for the correct pressure in idle and on 4500rpm and on the weekend i will put the gauge on the pressure switch to see wats happen to pressure and make a test,because as you see this litlle piece of 10cents of plastics causes a lot of an expensive problems if they remain a litlle bit open.im only at home at weekends,and it happens last week.
But it seems to me the filter have to touch and force this valve to close,so this weekend i will see if the pressure are good,i will change the cam followers and bring to you the result,as i expect the cam followers are all damaged because the car dont have enough power too.only 95000km 2008. But whats the major damage on your case?
