WOW! Absolutely the best designed carry-all I've ever seen, let alone, you made a video to illustrate the exact considerations needed to build one for your own needs. Thank you for this great video. Very impressed with both the quality, design, and execution. Very well done, sir. One video, and I'm subscribed.
just got my first ever tractor a couple weeks ago, and recently found your channel.. just wanted to say even 5 years later, this vid is still powerful good info.. the explanations of the "whys" is so useful for me. thanks for making this :)
Congrats on becoming a tractor owner! They are SO useful. I have well over 800 hours on mine and still use it often. Plus, it’s a lot of fun too. Thanks for watching!
I noticed another detail you addressed, and that is the direction you had all the lumber facing. You had the smiley face of the grain of the wood facing the correct direction every time, congratulations! Tim
Hi Chris, Well I was waiting to see if Tim wanted to chime in but he hasn’t so I’ll reply. I think Tim is referring to the way that boards can “cup” or “crown” depending on where in the log they were cut. Here’s an article that explains it pretty well: www.warlinepainting.ca/are-your-deck-boards-installed-right-side-up/ Basically, I looked at each board to see which way it was cupping, or likely to cup based on the grain pattern at the end of the board. For the carry all platform boards I tried to always orient them so that there would a crown in the board rather than a cup which would hold water or other liquids. The crown let’s liquids run off the platform. Likewise, with the tailgate boards, I wanted the crowns facing outward so they wouldn’t be wobbly hanging on the bed claw hooks. With the crown facing out, the claw hooks will automatically snug the tailgate boards to the edges of the side panels. Does that make sense?
Thanks for the explanation Martin. That makes perfect sense and I understand the cup vs. crown reference better than the smiley face of the wood grain. Good to know once I start the project. Based on weather conditions here in Northern IL, that may not be for a while. I need the treated lumber and that is likely frozen together at the lumber yard.
This is still by far the best carry all build I've seen yet and I'm definitely building mine to replicate yours. The only thing I may do different is I think I will weld the hitch receiver into the frame. Very well thought out, great job Martin.
I have to say this and do not take offense your description and directions for building this remind me of my high school shop teacher thank you for being so precise
Several years ago I built a carry-all for my Kubota L4701, It's very similar to this design. I damaged it a few days ago so I've just placed my order at Lowes to build one like you have! Thanks for the itemized shopping list!
DIY My Way I will. My cousin just bought the L3901 and I am getting ready to retire. When I do I want to get a hobby property so I can dig holes and fill them up for no reason.
Thank you Johnny! I really appreciate your comment! I hope you’ll share the video and my channel with anyone you think might like them. Thanks for watching!
Your attention to detail in the build and your incredible editing/narration skills leave me in pure amazement sir! I applaud your efforts and think this would be an awesome addition to any tractor !! Thank you sir for sharing your 'Super Versatile Tractor Carry-All'. Oh, btw... the little ducky really quacks me up !! hahahahaha
Hi T44! Thank you for those kind and encouraging words! Glad you liked the duck! Quick quiz: how many times does the duck make an appearance in the video?
Outstanding video on how to build a well thought carry-all. Thank you for all your great layout and measurements. Great service to the tractor community. Keep up the good work, and don't let GP rattle you too much. Cheers...!!!
Thank you, Paul! I appreciate you kind words! LOL GP doesn’t rattle me. I’m a subscriber to his channel and consider Gord a friend. Thanks for watching!
Martin - you have gone above and beyond the call of duty. Thank you for putting together such a well-detailed explanation of how you built the carryall. Excellent design, video and presentation. I only hope mine turns out just as nice. Thank you.
This is an incredible video. Very well done!!! I love how all the measurements there.. for a novice DIY person, this video would be very easy to follow.
DIY, that is one nicely detailed video. I like the accessory PVC tubes for carrying tools. Great video editing. I have no dang clue how to do that stuff on videos but enjoy watching a video when someone has mastered that skill. I think anyone who gets this type carry-all frame will be able to make a quality carry-all with your instructions. Thumbs up and have a fine week.
Good morning DIY! Excellent and detailed DIY video on the carry all. Really like the thought you put into it. It's ready to take on any job out in your outdoors! Loved the Dirty Harry reference. LOL. Eastwood is one of my favourite actors. Nice! I see you were sporting a toque and gloves. You are almost ready for a Canadian winter. :)) Cheers and thanks again for the great video!
Good morning GP! Thanks! Yes, it had cooled off quite a bit by the time I videoed those outdoor scenes. I have a much heavier coat in case one of your Canadian winters strays too far south!
Just wanted to say Thanks. I have a smaller BX1500D but your excellent build coverage made it an easy task to down size the carry-all for my needs. Still a dew things to wrap up - Scabbard/tool holders and possibly a dolly - but its getting there. Thanks again!
Thank you crxess! I appreciate you taking the time to comment. I'd love to see some pictures of your build. If you don't mind sending a few, you can email them to martin@diymyway.net. Thanks for watching!
That is a heck of a build. Like my ballast box I had been contemplating how to make something like this. No need to re-invent the wheel! Other than some potential tweaks I can see making this pretty much as is. Thanks so much for taking the time to explain everything with just enough detail that even an idiot like me can follow along! 🤠
I was sent a link to the "Part 1" video of this project after I saw this in use on another RU-vid channel and inquired about it. After watching "Part 2" I immediately became a subscriber; Thank you for sharing your idea.
I can't thank you enough for this excellent series!! Well done! As a 66 yo, 5' lady w/B2650 this is exactly what I needed. I'm almost done with mine and am so excited to put it to use.
Getting ready to build one of these so I started looking through RU-vid and came across your design. I stopped looking 👍🏻. Will let you know how it turns out.
I appreciate the feedback! I hope you’ll share this video and my channel with anyone else you think might like it. And yes, please let me know how it turns out! I’d love to see some pictures of the final product!
I started mine today, following your plans. Decking is done will start sides and "bolt on"s " tomorrow. Thank you for the time and effort you spent to share your idea. And yes I am now a subscriber. Keep your videos coming.
Hi Rusty! That's awesome! Please keep me posted on your progress. I'd love to see some pictures of your carry all when you are finished. Thanks for watching and subscribing!
Trying to figure how to attach photos, only issue is the gate latches, with the bend in slide bolt you need a rather large hole. Maybe I put the latch to close to the side board. Too much depth. Still working on it. Cannot wait to use it.
Hi Rusty! Try sending them to martin@diymyway.net. I’d love to see the progress! Sounds like that’s the issue. If you can move the latches up a bit on the side panel that should take care of the problem.
I just built this from your video step by step and everything turned out perfect from the materials list to the build....very sturdy and useful. Outstanding video and thank you!
Martin, What an excellent video. I've purchased all of the materials and hope to get started on this project soon. Very detailed video and good explanation. I thought all of the materials were expensive but when compared to other carry-alls on the market, I realized that this is a real deal. Well thought out design. Thanks.
This is absolutely fantastic. I was scheming plans in my spare time to build something very similar... then I cam across yours. Everything well thought out and great details on putting it together. Now I will be building one like yours!!! Thank you!!!
Just found your channel today looking for a carry all design that fit my needs. Your design seems superior to me in a lot of ways. Very nice work! Can't wait to get mine built.
I know that I am late to the party, but what a fantastic job you did. You make me want to go out and build mine right away, but will probably have to wait for my lovely wife to decide what Santa is bringing this year. Again, fantastic job. I also want to recognize your video skills, as I have not honed mine nearly as you have and know how hard it is! Subscribed, liked and watched complete.
I am finishing my carryall poached from your video. THANKS. It took me a couple minutes to realize I needed to resize for my B2601 (53 inch bucket). The only modification I made was to bolt 2X10 PT uprights to the rear frame so it would clear my ez hitch. This gave me lots of room for screwing the backboards. I would also suggest builders size the 5/4 6 in PT used on the open end of the side panels to have contact with the 2X6 side skids to transfer the load of the work table (rear panel) directy to the frame. I also lag screwed the 6 inch hinges to the back boards. But wow, this thing is heavy!!! Definitely takes load off the front axle.
Glad my video served as inspiration for you to make your own version of the carryall. Yes, it’s heavy and makes a good ballast box even empty. Folks with subcompact tractors would be better off making it out of lighter material like deck boards or 3/4” PT plywood to cut down on the weight. Thanks for watching!
Thanks Martin... The details of your carry-all build are spot on the money & the narration is excellent. Coincidentally I have the exact steel frame & a Harbor Freight 2" receiver that appears identical to yours. ( Made In China )... What isn't? LOL! My base & back wall as well as my skid plates & 2 x 4 uprights are complete as well as the receiver install. I too added a extra set of 1/2" holes for the 2 x 10 tailboard & the steel frame. I did find that the 2 X 6 skid plates were NOT tall enough to clear the backside of the receiver hitch ( 1/4" low ) based on using a straight edge. I decided to use a 2 x 8 with a 1/4" ripped off the narrow edge giving me a 2 x 7 skid plate. This gives me about a 1" clearance below the receiver hitch when sat on the ground. I had a steel shop cut my steel plate to 1/4" x 3" x 32 1/8". The thickness matches the angle iron thickness. The Big Box stores don't carry it in 3" width plus I bought it at a 3rd the cost! ( $11.78 )... I cut my recess with wood chisels as I don't own a router, ( yet ). I painted the recess & the steel plate with black Rustoleum after drilling my ( 8 ) 1/2" holes dead center across the steel plate. I then mounted the plate & receiver with the outboard carriage bolts & drilled up through the remaining ( 6 ) holes into the board & torqued it all in place... I'm now ready to build the swinging doors thanks in no small part to your excellent build plan as I tip my hat to you sir! Thanks again, Bill on the Hill, Vermont, USA... :~)
Sounds like you have a very sturdy carry all in the making, Bill! When you get it finished, I hope you’ll send me some pictures of your finished masterpiece! If you are so inclined, you can send them to martin@diymyway.net. Good luck!
@@DIYMyWay I would be happy to do so Martin. I have been documenting the build as I move along with it. Yesterday I built the LH wall but I still need to cross brace it & today I will build the RH side. I ran out of time yesterday & headed out for Sunday dinner with my daughter & granddaughters... Been an enjoyable straight forward build thus far with the receiver installation perhaps the most technical part. Thanks... :~)
Nice Build! appreciate the detail. Built like a brick outhouse! I'll sure be adding that to my attachment arsenal soon, also thinking an old minivan seat would make a great rumble seat for my grand kids.
I bought the lumber today and stainless deck screws. The 2 inch hitch I bought was $13 from Harbor Freight. It is 18 inch long and I will weld it to the bottom angle pieces using rectangular tube. I have plenty of square tubing I will cut to fit and weld in place.
What a great video! I don't have a tractor yet, but have one on order. One of the first things I plan for my tractor is to build a carry all like yours. It is obvious that much thought went into the design of this. Thanks again for making such a well made and detailed video.
@@DIYMyWay I am getting a BX23S TLB. There is a pretty bad shortage for those at the moment. I have been waiting over two months now. It is hard to wait. As another commenter stated, the price of lumber now is insane. I might make mine out of titanium. It will probably be cheaper! :) I have been bingeing on your videos in the last few days. Great work. Keep it up!
thanks, you did a real nice job of this. my carry all is pretty basic but there are some great modifications here which i need to add like the folding side walls
Vice nice and very easy to follow instructions. I bought some King Kutter implements from Campbells farm store in Sioux Falls SD. I think both Runnings and TSC had the same brand. I will have to look up the County Line brand. I think King Kutter had a like unit available. Full watch and thumbs up! Thanks for sharing! Kevin
I'm going to start one tomorrow and also provide the means to mount a 3/4 black iron pipe horizontally to the uprights to unroll barbed wire. I do use barbed wire whenever out of sight of our house because deer don't get caught and die in it like they do woven wire.
I did build a carryall following your plan. It turned out great. Thanks for the videos. They were easy to follow. The only thing I did different was that I used a King Kutter frame. The King Kutter frame works with a John Deere Quick hitch. I did make a RU-vid video and made sure to give credit to the DIY My Way designer.
Hi Beefitter! I watched you video. Great job on the carryall! Thanks for the “Stars Wars” style credit at the beginning. The wood looks really dark. Is it just very fresh pressure treated wood or did you stain it?
I did stain it with Rymar water sealant. Dark Hickory. I did use ground contact treated lumber. But, treated lumber can go bad with time if exposed to the elements. I stained the wood before attaching it to the metal frame. So the wood is as protected as it can be. Rymar is a great product, it is expensive, but you get what you pay for.
How's she goin'? Well what a nice carry all and so well built. You certainly planned that out and incorporated a lot of neat features and add-ons!!! Very well edited and narrated too. You have a talent for doing such things. Very impressed with your Carry-all and I agree with you that it is one very useful attachment for any tractor. Thanks for sharing!!!
@@DIYMyWay Yes I did. I had to make a few adjustments because Pat's Quick Attach Cat 2 is larger than the cat 1 and was binding up against the back of the carry all. I simply cut two openings to allow the quick attachment to pivot freely.
Thank you for your helpful video. I’m basically following your pattern, as I construct my own. There is one thought I want to pass on, however. Since new pressure-treated lumber will shrink over time, I think it would be better for my purpose to avoid adding in spaces between the platform boards. When the green wet boards shrink, the gaps between the boards will grow larger, yet. That is concerning, since I wish to sometimes transport dirt, compost, or finely shredded leaves without worrying that it might sift out between the boards and leave a messy trail in my wake.
Hi Mike! Thank you for taking the time to comment! If you plan to haul dirt or compost, then definitely don’t leave any space between fresh pressure-treated lumber. Even if you don’t, you could still end up with at least a 1/4” gap between boards, so you might consider putting a piece of 1/4” or 3/8” PT plywood on top of the lumber. Thanks for watching!
Thanks Angus! Bolting the casters on is fine if you live on flat property and will never cross a ditch or low spot. If not, be prepared to replace the casters from time to time. Thanks for watching!
IM going to buy this now. This is so useful. I carry lots of wood in my bucket of my kubota but then i dont have space for tools, chainsaw , more wood etc..
Thanks for the detailed instructions on how you constructed that excellent carryall. One question: Why did you go to the extra mile to make the dolley removable? If you kept the wheels under the carryall, I don't see why they couldn't be mounted permanently. Your design does give you the option of storing it in places without a concrete floor.
Hi Terry! Thank you sir! You answered your own question. First of all, there ain't no such thing as a level place anywhere on my property, so if for some reason I wanted to leave it outside, I can plop it down and not worry about it rolling away. The plan is when my shop is built, it will have a shed off the back with a roll up door to the inside. I'll have several of my implements on dollies, so I can roll in the one I want to attach to the 3-point and then be on my way. The carry all is one of those implements. Thanks for watching!
Looking at your video and looking at my Rural King Carry All frame I realize that the TSC version you use is not Quick Hitch compatible while the RK version is! The mounting holes on your TSC frame for the 3 point pins are directly on the frame which would put the board faces too close to the pins for a Quick Hitch to work while the RK frame has tabs welded to the frame for the 3 point pins that allow greater clearance between the Quick Hitch hooks and the boards. Plus RK has a red frame that matches my Mahindra! Gonna start my build tomorrow, thanks for a great plan.
You are right about the TSC vs RK frames. However mine works fine with the Pat’s Easy Change system. If I ever get a Quick Hitch, I would weld tabs on the frame to extend the pins out enough for a QH to work. If you’d like to send me pictures of your carry all, you can email them to martin@diymyway.net. Good luck!
@@DIYMyWay Another idea is to insert a 1/2” shim to the two vertical braces before attaching the back boards. This may require larger (3”) bolts though.
Just curious... does your hitch touch the ground. I built mine using your plan which is fantastic... When I go to mount my hitch... the bottom of the hitch protrudes past my carry all frame and the side levelling boards, which means the hitch itself would be securing all the weight. Did you find that yours does the same??
Hi Michael! I don’t know because I haven’t set the carryall on the ground with a ball hitch on it. If it is a concern for you, you can use 2x8s for the side leveling boards to get more clearance. Thanks for watching!
Martin, Why didn't you make the dolly or casters a permanent fixture and attach to the carry all. I'm thinking about doing that with wheels and pnuematic tires. If you use casters they need to be stainless so that they don't rust. What are your thoughts?
Hi Tony! First, with the uneven terrain of my property I knew I would occasionally bottom out the carry, which I actually did very soon after building it. If I had had big casters on it they would have been abruptly removed. Second, since I store my carry in my shop building, I only need the casters when I am rolling it up to hook it up or rolling it away for storage. Thanks for watching!
The carry all from tractor supply will need significant modification , with metal removal and welding, to work with John Deere quick hitch. Just a heads up.
Hi Chris! Thank you! No, I've not had any professional television experience, but I did sometimes do multimedia projects involving Flash and video, as well as lots of PowerPoint during my career. All that has helped. Thanks again for the kind words!
To echo what has already been said, this is an excellent video in every way. I just finished building my own "carry all" using this video as a guide. I can't thank you enough for all the time and effort you put into this video. It's inspiring! I would like to ask you one question though, if I may? I plan to add 8' casters from Harbor Freight. The base of the caster is 4'x4". How would you go about attaching them to your design? I have a few ideas but I thought I'd ask the builder himself before I went and messed up your masterpiece!
Thank you for the kind words, Chris! Well the first thing that comes to mind is to change the 2x4s on the bottom outer edges to 2x6s or 2x8s so you have a wide enough spot to securely mount the casters. Just be sure the casters can rotate freely without hitting anything. Thanks for watching!
@@DIYMyWay I should have left well enough alone and built the damn dolly instead of attaching 8"casters. What a pain! The carriage bolts combined with the nut and washer were too long to avoid hitting the swivel casters and had to modified. Another hassle I just discovered is that the added height makes it difficult for the 3-point arms to easily grab the pins. The angle isn't quite right. To make matters worse, the casters hang down so low that there will definitely be clearance issues. Ugh. I should have just followed your design. I'm almost certain they will have to be removed entirely. That being said, what a pleasure it was to build this monster! Thanks again!
Sorry to hear that, Chris! I was afraid they might make it too tall. BTW, I recently built a large simple dolly that does not attach to the carry all that has slightly bigger wheels but not so tall that it’s a pain to hook up. It’s basically an oversized furniture dolly I made from some 2x4s. You might consider doing the same unless having it attached is important. Good luck!
Chris, they are 4” locking casters. However, because the carryall sits higher on this dolly, I had to carve out some of the wood of the backboards behind the lift pins so my Pat’s Easy Change had enough room to hook up. When the carry sat lower on the attachable dolly, I barely had clearance to hook up. It was not big deal to chisel it out, but I thought I’d warn you in case you have that problem. Good luck!
Great video on a very useful tractor attachment. Curious if you have learned anything in the two years since this video came out that you would add or do differently? I am starting to build my carry all this week. Thanks for all the effort you put into your videos!
Great video and project! I would like to add a tool box. My tractor has a small tool box, but a attached tool box to the carryall would be great for chainsaw needs
DIY very hard to find the carry all in Canada will have to get a shop to make me one what is the measurement from the ground to the bottom lift pins thankyou
Hi, thank you for the part 2, i was looking for it! Your video is enjoyable to watch like all your previous ones, Q: How long did it take to build the carry all? I will certainly used your drawings to build mine next summer. Thanks again, Conrad
Hi Conrad! Thanks for the positive feedback! It took a couple of days as I recall. But it could be done in one day with everything on hand at the start.
Sorry to hear that, Vince! You might try adding some spacer strips between the frame and the backboard to give it room to hook up. If that doesn’t work you‘ need to weld stand-off plates to mount the lift pins on. Good luck!
Question: I can't tell from the video or instructions. Is the 1st platform board flush to the metal with the back setting on top or is the first back board flush to the metal base. I started to install my platform boards with 1/4" spacers and when I got to the end my 2x10 was recessed and not hanging over like yours. Update: of course lumber prices go up and the boards get skinnier.. it's a lot more than 1/4" between these boards.
Hi Duane! It’s flush to the metal of the uprights. Keep in mind that if your pressure treated lumber is fresh and soggy, it will shrink in width a lot, so either leave almost no space or let the lumber dry out before building. The boards on mine now have about a 5/8” gap between them after drying out. Good luck!
best video I've seen so far and I'm only a minute in watching the video. I did seek your advice on the five foot width of the lumber, do you think six foot lumber might be too wide? the reason I ask is much of the dimensions of your product and tractor all almost identical with my future construction. I wanted your opinion on engineered strength of the six foot wide product.
Hi Don. I have no clue. Never worried about because the 3 point lift capacity is several thousand pounds and the carry all frame is rated for 1,000. If the frame ever breaks, I’ll assume I was carrying too much.
Great video of the carry all. I have one question: Where did you get the metal frame for the bottom and the one used for the three-point hitch hook up? Thank You, in advance,
Outstanding. Love the design effort that went into it. Question. What are those plates called you bought on ebay. The audio comes across to me as “bed cloth plates.” I do not think that is their name, Bill
Oh yea, made me a " miracle wonder " carry-all after 92 seconds of instuctions from a "like" vidio champ (ODWTM's); everbody knows them. Didn't get all that "Fancy-dancy", but DID NOT permanently mount the "BOX" to the frame, just wanted to be different & l thought that the "easy-way" was for "Pure-Ametures". Made a "quick-detach" system that be "disconnect-lated " in 6 seconds-flat, so the "Frame" can be used for OTHER "attachments " & purposes . The "Box" can also be "convert-a-lated" to be used on the front loader forks to go "sky-high" 9 1/2 feet in the AIR--- "priceless". Thank you Sir for the Excelent vidio and happy safe tractoring. Best wishes with all your endeavours.
I bought it on Amazon but I see it is no longer available nor is there any alternatives offered. However, Harbor Freight sells one like it: www.harborfreight.com/5000-lb-step-bumper-receiver-69670.htm. Thanks for watching and good luck!
Thanks, Chuck! I don’t know for sure but I suspect it weighs between 300 and 400 pounds. If that’s a concern, you could frame it with 2x4 lumber and deck it with 3/4” pressure treated plywood. You’d still have a lot of strength but a lot less weight. Thanks for watching!
@@DIYMyWay What a coincidence....I just finished a "lighter" build for a smaller tractor (23 HP). 4 feet wide, deck boards for the bottom and back (with a 2x4 bolted to the "forks" to screw the deck boards onto). Seems to be plenty strong, no real deflection on the bottom boards when walking on it. Because there is less space for equipment, I actually put a pair of 2x4s (effectively a 4x4) on the outside edges of the back wall to attach the hinges to. That pushes the doors out a little further, leaving a space for tools behind the doors. I put a couple 2x4's down the back (like you are using to hang stuff on) and tied them together with another deck board that sits flush across the top. I can add the PVC pipes on that board and they'll sit inside the carryall behind the doors when transporting. Okay, that was a bit more detail than I intended. More importantly, great video and a great project. Probably the best I've seen. Keep up the good work.
Hi sdf8! Sounds like you have made really good adaptions to the design to suit your needs and the size of your tractor! I’d love to see a few pics of your build. Quite a few folks of shared pics of their carry alls based on my video and I’m planning to do a follow up video on the carry all featuring some of the carry alls built by viewers. If you would like to share a few pics, please send them to martin@diymyway.net. Thanks for the kind words and for watching!
You did a great job building this. What made you chose to have a separate fillet instead of attaching the small casters to the bottom of the carryall permanently
Thanks! The casters may not support the weight of a load if I disconnected it from the tractor. Also I didn’t want to worry about it rolling away if I parked it on sloped ground.
There’s a link to the companion page on my website in the video description. You’ll find a downloadable PDF of the materials list. Thanks for watching!