Version 2 of The Fastest and Easiest Way to Deploy a Fiberglass Mast 

Use version 2 this weekend for field day. Held my 31’ mast firm. Thanks for the great idea. K4JDF

Once again your smooth, calm voice transfers maximum info without a lot of fanfare and excessive talking. This second version seems nearly foolproof except in hurricane weather - and who would go out in that weather? Good video. Don't be so long in publishing the next one.

Superb. One of the best ham channels on the Tubes. Everything is laid out and demonstrated clearly.

As close to perfect as can be and still be simple and inexpensive set up, thanks.

I like the improvements very much. We hams share ideas with each other. 👍

If you get end caps, you can store all the pegs, paracord and etc. inside the PVC tube.

I came to Canada, from Brazil. Back there I was Class A ham, PY2. Videos like your encourage me to take some time in my tight agenda to study for the Canadian ham exam =]

Hello Tracy! I have built a stand almost exactly like your version one, and my version two looks vastly different! Since I only have a 12m Spiderbeam and no other mast, I have simply looped the ends of my three guy lines over the pole, and with some carefully placed tape, held them in place. At the end of each line, and at the base of the mast, I place one three-faced aluminum stake. This system is much lighter and more portable, because there is no PVC pipe to carry. This solution does away with hose clamps AND zip ties. Because the loop in the guy line goes around the mast itself, there is one less component that can cause a critical failure of the system. My version two is certainly less secure in windy or rainy conditions, but as a POTA operator who is not a camper, I would never leave my mast erected while not actively operating the radio, for safety reasons. I will send you an email with a couple photos of my version two. 73 de VE3GKT!

Thank you, Tracy, for sharing your efforts and getting others to think and share their ideas. You are a genuine Elmer to many. One suggestion is to melt the ends of the paracord to keep it from fraying. Very 73, N4WLC Bill

Hahaha... just as I was thinking the niteeyez, you showed them. I don't have enough for all the guy lines yet, so I still use the scouts slip knot for tightening guy lines, but they worked great for tent and hammock lines when camping.

Just got a mast!

Sir I enjoy your videos very much it is helpful to me am new to POTA keep up the great work

Hey Tracy,quick tip.instead of wasting lots of time filing the zip ties,just cut to size you want and on the sharp edge use a lighter as this will smooth them off in seconds 😉

Great timing... Just the other day, I was thinking "You know who I haven't seen a video from in a while?" :D These are great looking updates. I also trust 550 paracord. In fact, 2 years ago I put up a wire antenna at home, using paracord as the anchor "temporarily" until I could work out something more permanent. It's been holding up through a couple Michigan winters so far with no signs of giving up yet. I would definitely trust it for this sort of deployment!

For a pole base, I made one out of 3" PVC end cap with 10" of pvc pipe added to the cap. (use what ever sice pipe fittings needed for your size pole to fit into) I drilled a hole into the center of the cap and inserted a 9" carriage bolt and then added a washer, lock washer and nut tightened to the bolt. On the inside of the end cap, I layered in enough silicone to cover the top of the carriage bolt by 1/4" (let it dry between layers). The silicone was self leveled. This gave the base cap assembly a soft, flat base for the pole to sit into and it holds the base steady during use. Just poke it into the ground. I didn't glue in the pipe so I could shorten during transport. (I put the carriage bolt inside a pool noodle of same length then insert it into the pvc pipe for transport.) And that was my base movement solution. Joe KI5IQE

Just want to say thanks for the revised version - just built one and it works like a champ. Much appreciated!

The cam locks are brilliant.

Hi Tracy! I enjoyed this and particularly like the idea of zip ties and rings to hold the base solidly in place and more aggressive pegs to support the paracord/cargo straps. Here in southwestern BC, when we get so much rain through the winter season, the ground is sloppy and loose so that I struggled to keep the mast upright - when the breeze comes up the mast has to come down. I think this will solve that problem. Thanks!

Great Ideas Tracy, I had thought of a pole for my inverted Vee when I camp/fish and that looks great as you can have the PVC already built up ready to fasten to your ground pegs. Now I just have to find a place to camp/fish that isn't in a park! Thanks for you Videos Tracy. Dave VE3CMI

I am waiting on my antenna/radial wire (due to arrive today) before I can set my SpiderBeam up this weekend. Great ideas. I like the idea of wire ties on the PVC, as I don't want to scratch up my new pole. I will put a spacer inside the pipe (pipe insulation or the like) to stabilize and protect the pole. Also, I will add a grommet boot to my SpiderBeam and over the PVC to keep out all precipitation. I will be adding an end cap and some foam padding inside the cap to minimize impact when the pole collapses for take-down. I will definitely take all your improvements to heart as I put this up this weekend. Thanks for posting and 73, "Bill" KD8BET.

Tracy...Good video. I always look forward to seeing another. Getting ready/planning for Field Day. Jim WX7Q

Tracey. These improvements look excellent. I'm a user of the EFHW vertical and am just preparing my kit for this years' portable sojurns -- so I'm off to our local DIY store later this week to procure some stainless steel rings to fix to my PVC support pipe. Many thanks for the ideas. 73 Stay safe. Bruce G4ABX

My experience with the spiral dog anchors is mixed. If the soil is soft loom or sand, they are darn near impossible to get out of the ground by any other method than unscrewing them. If, on the other hand, you are dealing with hard, rocky soil they are darn near impossible to even get into the ground. Many years ago I was camping with some Scouts on a rocky surface. I couldn't even get the thing to break the surface of the ground. Finally had to drive some steel pegs in with a sledgehammer. The point is know where you are going to operate. Adapt as necessary.

Thanks for the video. I have built two of the version II supports. Plan to run 130' end fed between two Spiderbeam 12M poles on FD.

Ernie WRMQ998 I used 2 1/2” schedule 40 electrical conduit with an adapter for a screw on cap. Under the cap I used 2 ball canning jar lids (2 1/2”) and put a 1/2” hole in the middle to receive a stake for lateral support. I went with your original plan using a 3” hose clamp but used “D” rings which tighten up nicely against the conduit. Thanks for the suggestion. It works great!

Thanks Tracey, I made your first version of the antenna base (1.0); great success. My antenna is the 12 meter fiberglass pole from Spiderbeam from Spremberg, Germany. I did buy the guy line holder at the same time. The mast then has 4 extra guy ropes at a height of 7 meters. The mast is rock solid. Greetings from PA7DK from Holland

Several excellent points in your two vids. Thanks for posting. BTW: in the US, both Lowes and Home Depot stock 2" and 3" PVC schedule 40 pipe in 3' and 10' lengths. I use 2" PVC Pipe, in a tilting arraignment on the side of my utility trailer, to slip my 10M SpiderBeam mast into. Very nice fit with just a little side to side slop. When i need to set up the mast in the open, I'll use 2' sections of sharpened ReBar with a 90 degree bend at the end as stakes. A 3lb ball peen hammer will set them nicely. I'll fabricate a small post pole puller to retrieve the ReBars. I say I'll do this and that above because my first option for a portable mast is to add a section of tilting 2" PVC pipe to my SUV trailer hitch frame similar to my utility trailer setup. However, separate parking and mast locations would require the use of your system. Thanks for the info presented in your refined vid #2. BTW: All your vids provide valuable info. 73 OM

I thought V1 was great, but these improvements look fantastic! Thanks!! WB2SMK POTA on!

Wow, this video helped me a ton after getting my first mast and wondering how to deal with the problem of securely anchoring it. Thank you! I'm using mastrant guy rope from DX Engineering in place of the paracord. Those Nite Ize carabiners are such a great tip and they carry them in different sizes at my local Home Depot. I've quickly found other uses for them as well. Really appreciate you putting the experiments and time into putting this out there for the amateur radio community!

Very cool and thanks for sharing. I'm working on my own version of this system as I write this.

Tracy, thank you for the great summary. I use a 31' Jackite pole, and originally used a Bosch BT-160 surveyor's tripod. On windy days, I would add a few tent pegs (nail-type from Harbor Freight) at the feet of the tripod, which held it down nicely. Inspired by you, I decided to try guying instead to cut down on weight and bulk. I affixed three picture frame d-ring hangers to the part of the mast with rubber coating using a hose clamp. I used paracord with CamJam hooks, tying the other end to the pegs. For the base, I use a PVC floor drain turned upside down anchored with a couple of tent pegs. It was rock solid in a 10+ mph wind, and will clearly handle a lot more. My QRZ page has photos. 73 de K9NUD

Put a garden spike trough the end cap to keep the pvc bottom from sliding.

Bill-N6EF-Great ideas. For my homebrew end-fed halfwave, I use a DXCommander 10 meter pole to support the EFHW in an inverted vee configuration. To keep the bottom of the mast from moving, I use a 2 inch PVC cap with a 3/8 inch hole drilled in the middle of it, and drive a 12 inch landscaping spike through the hole into the ground. I insert the bottom of the mast into the cap keeping the pole captive inside the cap. This works great even in soft soil. I haven't tried it in sand yet but it's worked flawlessly on all of my POTA activations so far. I use paracord for guy ropes which works well. Our local Home Depot has a 3 inch pipe used for drainage which might work. There are endcaps which can have holes drilled in the end to drive a 12 inch landscape spike to keep it in place. The drain pipe isn't as thick as 3 inch water pipe but this for this use case, would probably work. Your idea of using rings and tent stakes on each side looks like a great idea as well. Thanks for the great videos.

Thanks my friend! When you posted ver 1, I made my own version of it. Used it once for FD and it held up fine. I like the Nitetize paracord lock idea. Might have to modify mine now. 73 de K2CJB

Thanks Tracy - I copied your V1 and works great for the heavy Spiderbeam 12m mast. Actually used a rubber gasket around the mast to cushion it from the pipe to make up for the small distance between the mast and pipe. Maybe a little bulkier and when I get the time will try at least to switch to the paracord - good ideas for modifications....well done. AI6OU

Thank for sharing your update Tracey, my system is based on what you initially shared. Tried the PVC pipe, easily sourced here to suit the Spiderbeam. I just couldn't get on with it and the cargo straps. I ended up using a hose clamp on the pole itself.......but between it and the pole I use 4mm nitrile rubber. I don't have this clamped with any force, it only needs to stay in place. I have gaps in the rubber to thread 4mm mastrant P cord. I currently use 12" galvanised pegs made from Rebar, you can buy them quite cheap. For tensioning the cord I use Clamcleats, simple bit first class and are solid. Take care, great to see you posting content again. 73, Colin

That was an awesome presentation. I just bought a 31 ft JackKite Pole for end-fed wire antenna POTA or HIP. The PVC connection points and stake information were concerns that I needed some feedback on. I was going to use Aluminum Camping 6 inch spikes and hose clamps. The plastic screw spikes are great for local parks but may not be heavy-duty enough for our dry rocky desert ground in Arizona. The dog screw stakes are interesting. I feel like I have a start on this project. Thanks again!!!

I made a wooden base with 2 X 4's and a pvc pipe in the middle. Not very portable but used it on field day for two years. I used rebar about 24" long for stakes and drilled angled holes in the four legs to hold the stand in place. Worked well here in the high desert where you are as likely to be setting up in sand as anything else. I like your new modifications. Fastening the base should keep it from shifting in high winds. W6BZY

Perfect timing! Ready for this summer. 73 DE HB9GXP

Thanks, Tracy, and 73s from Russia!

On my 10-meter Jackite telescopic mast I tied a a Turks head knot into which I integrated four loops. The Turks head knot and loops are made of 550 paracord. Mini s-biners connect the guy ropes, also 550 paracord, to the loops. Camping tent guy line tensioners provide the adjustment for the guy lines. Setup is a snap, and extra kit is kept to a minimum. Keep up the great work.

I would also consider adding an end cap to the pipe with a soft landing base should the mast decide to self telescope. I use Bongo ties at each section to discourage it, not foolproof but easier in the outdoors than hose clamps. Thanks for a super informative video with field tested solutions. Steve, G0ORK

Hi Tracey, I think you have it all sorted now with version 2. Doubt you will have any problems even if it does rain. Stay safe. 73 WJ3U

I found a 43 inch fence post about 10.3mm in diameter, 3/8-inch, driven into the ground 19 inches, exposing 24 inches at surface. A 1/2-inch by 24 inch pvc riser nipple perfectly fits over the fence post. Only trick now is to find a few donut-shaped rubber or plastic that fits over the pvc but just inside the base of the fiberglass pole. Perhaps a 3D printed thing would work. Then all that is needed is one guy rope attached halfway up the mast with the rope pointed directly into the wind and tent-staked into the ground. If there are crosswinds, use two in different directions.

Very nice video examination of ways to improve the mast stand. I latched onto your original idea, using the tie-down straps and the hose clamps. The only change I've made is to get rid of the ratchet part of the tie down straps. They were bulky, heavy and always in the way, and I could never figure out how to use that ratchet thing. LoL So, I got rid of that part of each strap. So, I just have the long part of each strap under the hose clamps and use the hook end to steak down to the ground. They re all the same length and it seems much simpler to me to setup. Wa-la! Ha! I don't camp and just do one-day POTA operations so I'm not concerned with over-night conditions. Maybe I'll get ambitious and do your improvements. Dunno. "If it works, don't fix it?" ;-)

Now I have just seen this one! Brilliant! 73

Hi Tracy and thanks for the update. I suspect that the people who question the use of the PVC pipe haven’t tried to erect a 12 m spider pole single handed. Although, probably for a smaller pole, it’s overkill. Doesn’t stop you from adding a secondary guying point further up if it is windy. Managed to find an automotive radiator hose which fits on the lowest section of the spider pole and fits nicely ( it’s tapered) into the space between the PVC pipe and the spider pole. 2E0HWO now M0YZT

You have motivated me to get out in the field and try the version 2 pole! Thanks. DE WA1KLI

Excellent

Tracey, cut off the ends of paracord cleanly, then using a Bic-type lighter, melt then rope's end, each end, to prevent fraying.

Tracey, thanks for another great video. take care. 73 N6NRO

I am not a Ham but an SWL. You mentioned using dog tie-outs as anchors. I built a 41 foot vertical from PVC tubing guyed at two points the way many verticals are (I painted the PVC black to protect it from UV). I used dog tie-outs to anchor the guys to the ground and backed them up with a second tie-out. It held up for a number of years until a particularly strong storm came through. A tree limb snagged one of the upper guy-lines and the antenna broke off a few feet above the lower guy point. Nevertheless the dog tie-outs did not pull out of the ground. I found my dog tie-outs at flea markets and yard sales for next to nothing.

I love V2. I have decided to make a mod for the base of my pipe. I have a flagpole holder for my van. It extends my 2" trailer hitch out two feet so the van doors can open. The flagpole then slides into a vertical 2x2 metal channel. I am going to add a section of square channel into the bottom of the PVC pipe so that I can drop it into the flag holder for a quick vehicle mounted base. Then I can use it in two places. 73

Instead of the steel rings and zip ties at the top of the PVC pile, it might be stronger, simpler, and sleeker to just drill the smallest holes that paracord can fit through, and use Figure-8 stopper knots. You could use 2 holes with a small length of paracord for each of the 4 attachment points. Put then ends of the paracord through the holes and tie the stopper knot on each end inside the pipe. Or use a single length of paracord, snaked in and out of a horizontal row of holes spaced appropriately around the pipe, to create all four "loops." The same could be done at the bottom, too.

When I was using a painter's push pole, I had a similar PVC base shaft. I took two flat end caps and epoxied them together on their flat surfaces. I drilled a hole through the middle, and inserted a lawn spike. These can be found at hardware stores, are about 8-12" long and look like a large galvanized nail with a flared flat head. I epoxied that in place. The end result is a cap that can go on the end of the pipe two ways: either with the spike inside the pipe for storage, or outside the pipe as an anchor. When you drive it into the ground, you still have to guy it, but the base will not slide, and there's usually enough stability to it that you can attach and stake the guy wires without needing a third hand to hold the PVC base up. I'm getting ready to do another version of that for my new 10M pole, but I'll probably do it a little differently this time, finding a way to use fasteners and backing plates inside the caps to attach them together, as well as the stake to the cap. The epoxy doesn't always hold up well with the lateral forces that it sometimes experiences.

Wow has it really been 2 years since I did my MK1 version? Must confess my version still holds but the couplers at the base of the pipe/tube is one I’ll use as the 40’ Spiderbeam is easier to pivot over than the 30’ version. I’ve just bought the more compact 30’ Spiderbeam pole only to find the bottom section is too wide. So I’ll probably follow your lead as long as I can find the bits. Thanks again for posting 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 73 M0AZE Mike

I guy my pole if it is going to be windy by making a wooden triangle with 5" sides and a guy tying hole drilled in each carner and a central hole just slightly less than the pole diameter at about its halway point. To use just attach 3 long lengths of paracort to each corner of the triangle then silde it over the top of the pole before extending it and before fixing the wire end of the antenna. As the pole is extended the triangle will slide down the pole until the pole diameter stops it from going any further down.. Fully extend the pole the guy out using the three long paracords previously tied to the triangle. Works a treat especially if the tube support at the base is also in use. Will withstand a gale as I have proved. I also use my pole in a car support under a front wheel with a guy tied of onto my roof rack and any nearby fence or rail. Only adds a couple of minutes to pole erection and gives much piece of mind in adverse conditions. 73 guys and good luck

Just wondering yesterday if we would be treated with a new video soon. Thanks!

I saw your first video on this subject and found it very interesting. I just received a DX Commander so am looking for ideas for securing it as we can get some pretty stiff winds here on the prairies. Cheers from Moose Jaw Tim VE5THF

Great video! I'm going to see about building my own based on this. Maybe I'll post a video on it. Thanks! 73 de K7ELH

Interesting video Tracy... have you considered an end cap for the PVC pipe, sand the pipe and the cap for a free fit. Int the centre of the cap drill a hole for a length of threaded rod, secure with nuts and washers. To use, stab the treaded rod/cap where you want the PVC pipe to be, insert PVC pipe, assemble as usual. I now live in a strata community, so no permanent antennas, portable ops for me from now on I guess unless my imagination branches down the devious path to hide an antenna in plain sight, poor vision of my fellow community members may play into my hands/antenna, hi, hi.

What about making a sharp cut at the bottom instead of 90 degree angle? Or maybe a 'upside down crown'. Then de tube will act as a peg that cuts in the ground preventing sideways movement. That saves loose parts like the pegs, rings and zip ties. One pin though the bottom of the tube act as a stop for the antenna pole and as a stop preventing it sinking further into the ground. I guess that's a more simplified design with less parts; only one 'stop pin' saving weight and prevents too much loos parts. Another idea is to drill (two, three or) four large (1 inch?) holes at the top of the tube. The tightening straps can be fed trough the holes. This can be done for four straps, but six or eight straps can also be used of they share the holes. So there are no additional parts needed like zip ties and rings. I expect that the tube with holes is much stronger than (double) zip ties as mounting points. Holes are even lighter than zip ties and rings. ;-) When the holes are strategically placed, the tightened straps can act as a self centring mechanism for the antenna pole. Well, maybe this is helpful. ;-) 73 PE2CJ (If you have questions, please contact me via the QRZ website.)

Titanium "V" stakes are popular with backpackers because they are really light and hold very well. Way better than regular tent pegs.

You can use a hose clamp and put between it and a mast others....

Dear Om, thank you for nice video & tips! 73 DENNIS PD0GTO

Just wondering, did you try using something like a tautline hitch to tighten the line? Great video! Thanks for sharing!

Dear Tracy, thank you for you great ouvre of videos and high quality content. I learned a lot. From the home country of hyendfed i have a question: what would you do if you need to be in a moist environment with version 3. In the netherlands we get pondered with rain shower and sometimes even horizontal rain. My gfk masts can hold up in wet weather, provided the inside stays dry. how would you provide for this kind of wet environment in version 3? Thanks and 73 Edwin pd0sot

A pvc cap with .25 inch or less threaded rod with a nut and washer inside and out drilled thru the middle. These caps are domed and the rod should come out of the domed side at least 6 inches. This side can be ground to point for easier driving into the soil. A couple of small holes will help with drainage. After the threaded rod nuts are tightened glue it to the pipe. 3 inch pvc has an inside diameter of 3 inches. This should keep the bottom in one place and the rod can be longer if want, I buy threaded rod in 6 foot lengths. Greg W8XP

You could use a Cigarette lighter to melt the ends of your paracord to stop them from fraying.

hi i use a diferent aproche iuse a galvanazd pipe at the botom that i push in the ground it haz a sharp tip 4 ease of insertion the antena i mount with u bolts on the outside if i use other antennas then a fiberglas pole the fiberglas gose in and 4 guy wiers are enuf to hold it up even in wind or storm conditions

Well done! I'm wondering how notching some teeth into the bottom of the PVC would do the job of eliminating the slip. Also, would pounding the tent pegs through the holes at the bottom be sufficient instead of the "O" rings on wire ties?

I use 5 guy lines, ... if you loose any one, the mast stays up... at least long enough to stick the peg back in the ground.

Excellent video Tracy! This project reminds me of a painter's pole base I made years ago out of PVC pipe. An old friend of mine KD5RDR showed me a PVC base he had made from a design in QST magazine, and I built the same base. The base is simply a 4 way PVC joint with four 4 foot lengths of 1.5" PVC pipe, and a PVC cap bolted to the center of the joint to allow a fifth pipe to be placed vertically. To strengthen the base I tried to use string as guy wires, but the PVC was just too flexible and caused the base to mimic an inverted umbrella. I then decided to use 4 green steel fence posts and some metal brackets to secure the two ends of each post. Each post was positioned in the same fashion as a guy wire but also provided rigidity. There is a lot more to this base than I can describe here. Recently I purchased some screw anchors similar to the ones you posted in the video from Ace Hardware. They were about $24 for a 4 pack and are made of polycarbonate.

yes i have one suggestion if i may.. pvc pipe to ground issue...im in australia and i push/hammer a fencing star picket 2' into ground..then i put antenna pole OVER THE STARPICKET..now i use this permanently in my back yard..but could be used portable if you put a bolt through the lowest hole in starpicket and jack it out..as a permanent fixture it performs well.i do add guys up around 6' mark.. i use 20' mast n have no issues..good luck god bless VK4EZY robby

Taut line hitch! Get a Boy Scout to teach you. 😎

I was just on Amazon preparing to order the tiedown straps. (wondering if I could use my 550 cord) While looking online this idea this video started. Now I'll need a drill. :) Seriously, I live in San Antonio, Texas. The ground is exceptionally hard. I have to use a hammer to pound my 12" stake into the ground. So very different from the ground in North Carolina (where I spent last week's beach vacation). The stake was easily pushed into the ground by the ocean. But, I'm home now, and need advice on good stakes to use. TNX all!

Like video very much but No parts list like the o'ring what size they are.

What distance do you have the stakes from the pvc pipe?

Do you have a recommendation for a carry bag, preferably one with interior pockets?

Just a comment on cutting the tye wraps use a pair of pliers to twist the end off no sharp edges

I'm just curious - why would you not simply use a similar approach on the telescoping mast itself and place the guy lines higher? I'm not really seeing the value in the addition of the PVC pipe. Thanks.

Has anybody thought of an alternative to using zip ties to secure the rings to the pvc?

Couldn't you just wrap 2 different lengths of paracord, 10' long each, around the pvc pipe to make your 4 anchor points?

Too bad we can't use this method at a lot of parks here. The staff doesn't like us driving spikes in the ground.

Remember, this has to be installable in five minutes or less.