Vertigo (32/8b+) Australia's Hardest Trad Route

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Definitely a true test piece, hard, scary, potentially dangerous. It's got moves that are at least V10 & V11 I would say. The gear is often quite small and intricate to place. If you get it wrong you are potentially going to hit the ground, he has put up the hardest trad route in the country!" Zac Vertrees...
La Sportiva Edelrid climber Dan Fisher has finally sent the long standing Vertigo Project at Namadgi National Park! This proud crack line up a massive boulder was first aid climbed in the 70ies and has had many wanting to free the line, but with no success until now. Thanks to Ben Sanford Media, watch Dan's journey as he takes on the line and establishes Australia's hardest trad route to date. Who will be the next climber to send it?
#LaSportiva #ForYourMountain #Edelrid #MadeByEdelrid #ClimbGreen

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Опубликовано:

2 мар 2020

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Комментарии : 171

@brandonr6757 4 года назад

"I'm not a trad climber" - guy who's been trying a trad line for 8 years.

@rickytrockclimbing2935 4 года назад

Brandon R lol so true, nice comment

@bensanfordmedia 4 года назад

When I filmed him, he said to me that it was the most he'd lead the route ever. He practiced it on top rope until he had it dialled. He's a boulderer mainly. Funny thing was he called wires/ nuts/ stoppers 'wire thingys' at one point.

@limekrhythm6749 4 года назад

@@bensanfordmedia whats up with the footage at 04:05? All the Black in the image are a greenish mess? Left side in the crag for example. I'm just curios and a video editor ;)

@bensanfordmedia 4 года назад

@@limekrhythm6749 Not too sure, can't actually see what you mean. I almost never edit, so I'm a rookie. Must've been a grading error.

@mystyboarder910 4 года назад

Hannes Müller Doesn’t look off at all, must be your monitor.

@Eric-en5gp 4 года назад

love how all the gear were stoppers! way to go

@silenthicks 4 года назад

im not a trad climber why do you praise using one specific type of gear?

@bensanfordmedia 4 года назад

@@silenthicks Because stoppers feel the least secure as a piece of protection to place in comparison to Cams/friends and hexes. So it's extra bold to climb in that style.

@masterpropper2485 4 года назад

@@bensanfordmedia Not really true. It always depends on the placement. There are placements where stoppers definitely feel way more secure than cams ... And I'm sure if he felt like some cams would suit this route and make it safer, he would've used some cams, but he decided stoppers just work better.

@bensanfordmedia 4 года назад

@@masterpropper2485 I understand that, I've climbed trad for years. Some grooves take wires way better but in general they are rated lower than their equivalents in cams, so in general people feel like little wires aren't as nice to whip on. Hence Dan climbed it in bold style. He mentioned he borrowed the wires, he didn't own a rack.

@FlatOutFE 4 года назад

Using stoppers is not "bold". They are simply just better than cams in some situations. The unfortunate reality is passive protection is becoming a lost art form.

@KubaClimbsRocks 4 года назад

Nice video! Had me laughing at "I'm not a trad climber" ..climbs 8b+ on trad..:D

@adamploof3528 4 года назад

Awesome, really appreciated that most of the moves were included in this edit. Much more enjoyable than the frantic, "cut to the crux style" of many films.

@Hilly_Jam 2 года назад

i love daniel fisher

@jackdumanat49 3 года назад

that chimney on the left looks interesting...

@SuperMadBloke 4 года назад

Fantastic not to see someone howling and grunting, just getting the work done! Amazing climbing, sweaty hands business

@taylorbarton8576 4 года назад

That's incredible.... That layback section near the end looks insane

@DB-ez9ud 4 года назад

sick, well done Dan and great video too

@Judemay01 4 года назад

Well done mate! It's hard enough as an aid route so well do on sending it like that!

@ChrisHaileyTrainHardDiveEasy 4 года назад

Awesome send and great looking route, nice work dude!!!

@yonkonian 4 года назад

What a beautiful line. Strong work!

@GlobalClimbing 4 года назад

Very aesthetic line! Great effort man!

@hwobstj 4 года назад

Damn impressive! Great style and a humble bloke too.

@fredred476 4 года назад

awesome! massive congrats. holding down a regular job adds another layer to and already serious achievement as well! Great vid.

@isakberg3490 3 года назад

All that gear just looked so comfortable. Love it, good effort!

@armandocorvini2364 4 года назад

Dan, you are awesome, Congratulations mate!

@tonkashouse 4 года назад

Great video. I thought to myself "That's a good spot for a cam" and you placed a nut. Well done.

@rushthezeppelin 3 года назад

Definitely some ballnut potential on this too.....maybe it's just easier to quickly slot a nut and set it on these moves than use a cam, especially in some of the blind placements.

@tyroneturnbull4894 4 года назад

Nice Dan! Sick to see you're still going hard!

@wi11ey42 2 года назад

incredible work

@jamesbailey9386 2 года назад

Excellent, very well done!

@jonathandeleyser1782 4 года назад

What an amazing line. Congrats.

@rylanandersson 4 года назад

So glad to see someone showing off the katanas again!

@davidcameron8962 4 года назад

Awesome send Dan, the video footage makes the crack look bigger than it is in reality. I had a play on bottom section in the mid 90's and was so spanked I could never move out of the curving crack. George bolted a route above and to the left of Functor which needs some lovin'

@Scott-qf3bu 4 года назад

Such an epic send Dan!!

@stealth1fighter 4 года назад

Wow. What a beauty!

@bkl8804 4 года назад

Climbers are the "Special Operators" of the Action Sports world. I get psyched out on sport routes so mad respect to this bloke for this hardcore trad send.

@AcousticFatality 2 года назад

Absolute animal. My hands got sweaty just watching this.

@lizarddronedude3617 4 года назад

Thought I was looking at something on Derbyshire grit lovely vid great climbing well done!!

@andyhughes2411 4 года назад

Just awesome!

@corex72 3 года назад

Brilliant mate.

@damiengildea4152 4 года назад

Awesome, well done. A minor point? The term 'testpiece' is not just for a hard climb. It's for an established classic that is considered the benchmark for the grade, something other climbs can be compared to. Up and coming climbers test themselves on a testpiece to know that they can climb that grade. Vertigo may well become a testpiece, but as a new route (and unrepeated?) by definition it can't be one yet :-)

@benearle271 4 года назад

Great video, love the detail on holds and gear and clear shots of the climb from start to finish.

@bensanfordmedia 4 года назад

Thanks Ben!

@andreykurdyubov2822 4 года назад

Pity, that route ends at the edge, not at the top of the rock. Anyway very nice line and great climbing. Thanks!

@michaeltouchette8156 3 года назад

done a lot of trad back in the day.... can't even imagine climbing 5.14a TRAD..... that was wicked..............

@jamescampbell2521 4 года назад

Well done 👍

@spammy1234567890 4 года назад

Nice my dude. Very strong

@bennettstone656 4 года назад

what a sick route

@adandap 4 года назад

Yikes. I was worried about some of my pieces popping while aiding Vertigo! Serious kudos due here.

@danhonneyman6911 2 года назад

amazing

@davehause8571 4 года назад

@6:40, we've all experienced that moment.

@danielhayes137 3 года назад

Nice mate!

@edelrid 4 года назад

Great Video ;)

@VDB420 4 года назад

Those draws look nice

@ilyakravchuk7290 3 года назад

His crack glove is awesome, just why bother. This makes this send even greater!

@thegingerpowerranger 4 года назад

Balls of steel

@zoltanvonsomogyi7272 4 года назад

Beautifully done! Back in my day, we did everything possible to avoid placing bolts on a rout. Ethics were the biggest concern for us when placing a rout. That's mostly gone now. Such a thrill to see such a clean accent of this amazing line!

@chrism5995 Год назад

I mean you could bolt that but why when there's optimum pro placement everywhere

@monkeyapeman 2 года назад

Unreal

@nathantweeddale9057 4 года назад

nice line!

@grumpygardner3059 3 месяца назад

Absolutely Bad Ass!

@Hilly_Jam 2 года назад

daniel fisher is my idol

@harlanpepper6848 3 года назад

Yeah I'd find about any excuse possible not to try this one.......mad respect.. I'd have to top rope that one till the rock was smooth too have the balls to lead it

@David-go4ot 4 года назад

my heart was racing

@tzrnful 4 года назад

6:15 Tape on left hand disappearing. 6:53 Tape on left hand reappearing. 7:05 Tape on left hand disappearing. 7:13 Tape on left hand reappearing. Nice climb though!!

@bensanfordmedia 4 года назад

Oops. I only have two hands, bit hard to shoot two cameras and a drone at once. This wasn't actual first ascent footage, nor did we say it was.

@bensanfordmedia 4 года назад

@Pete is never wrong Thanks Pete, appreciate it!

@peterrees6346 4 года назад

Yeah... more aussie climbing docs please.

@markwalker3575 2 года назад

Where’s the topout? Nice route, Nice vid.

@halenball-vant1772 2 года назад

This isn't just the hardest trad route in Australia, its one of the hardest trad routes in the world, incredible effort for someone with a full time job expecially!

@thebbqbandito2868 3 года назад

I’m so curious as to who discovers the paths for climbing.

@bsheelflip 2 года назад

Never thought that the tape beta for an 8b+ would be one flimsy boi

@abel2226 4 года назад

That Zac looks like the Aussie version of Tommy Caldwell lol

@robozbeci 4 года назад

Cool

@bjaminbjamin 4 года назад

so sick. great footage. Has Logan climbed this?

@user-zu2hv2qc7c 4 года назад

Which bit of "first ascent" are you having trouble understanding?

@bensanfordmedia 4 года назад

Nah Logan hasn't done it, I believe he's tried it though.

@bjaminbjamin 4 года назад

@@bensanfordmedia nice! He has drive and skill.....thx!

@olivierlessard6783 4 года назад

Great climbing. The video? Not so much. Too many cuts and zooms.

@alfrednOObel2 4 года назад

And the audio levels! Music is waay to loud in comparison to the spoken parts. I had to adjust my amplifier on every cut.

@fiendsfootage 4 года назад

Amazing looking climb (and gear colour coordination), but the editing is far too choppy (changing angle every 3 seconds makes it hard to see the actual climbing) and the sound balance is buggered at the start, the kickdrum nearly blew my headphones after turning it up to hear his quiet interview.

@semmtexx 4 года назад

Fiend O'Phobia 😢🎻

@shannonreid5499 3 года назад

Great effort 32 is a serious undertaking but isn’t this the same grade as the dragon in kalbarri and whistling kite at frog?

@halenball-vant1772 2 года назад

Whistling Kite is the same grade but is not a trad line, has some bolts as well as gear, no idea about the other one

@mrwhale7875 Год назад

The dragon is a touchy subject, may or may not have actually been done, a hold has rumored to have broken and it hasn't had a repeat since it went up 19 odd years ago. The line is mega tho definitely could go.

@jonastrolliet4527 4 года назад

Well ... What about topping out ?! very nice line though

@neillewis1389 4 года назад

Surely, trad routes should top out if possible???? He could have belly flopped onto that sloping shelf at the top. If he had a belly, that is...😁

@_Jeremyxlewis 4 года назад

We’re all these shots from the one send? The tape on his hand disappeared halfway through the climb

@bensanfordmedia Год назад

Pretty impossible to have close-ups and drone shots without seeing a camera man from one send. We did three laps to film it that day. The actual FA was not filmed.

@austinhoag5130 4 года назад

BOLD

@mrwhale7875 Год назад

doesnt the dragon in kalbarri WA go at the same grade (im aware it is unrepeated tho)

@rmmichael95 3 года назад

Used to be the hardest. Those sacred rocks are safe now..

@z50king29 Год назад

Nice, I'm also a high school teacher

@Atman988 4 года назад

What is the soundtrack in the end of this video?

@bensanfordmedia 4 года назад

Stranger In The Woods - PALA (Instrumental)

@helmutfieg5607 2 года назад

I spent a fair bit of time working the route. It is definately harder than 32. My thoughts were quite a few moves around V7- 3 moves around V9-V10 and one V11. Very sustained climbing.

@jradd77 4 года назад

Wow with 0 cams?!?!

@paulmitchell5349 2 года назад

Is there a route up the left arete ?

@bensanfordmedia Год назад

There's a route in the chimney on bolts, not sure about the arete though.

@kristofferhansen2775 4 года назад

Soundtrack?

@bensanfordmedia 4 года назад

In order: By My Side - The Emerson Year Give - OBOY Stranger In The Woods - PALA All instrumental versions.

@Olbert111 4 года назад

It sure don't look like that now!

@steelonius 4 года назад

Did this area burn?

@gsplaysgui7710 4 месяца назад

Parkour reborn one?

@robertnewell4054 3 года назад

Was this a HeadPoint ascent?

@bensanfordmedia Год назад

Dan just reclimbed it for the video, FA was a normal Redpoint

@terraflow__bryanburdo4547 4 года назад

V10/11 is harder than 8b+ for overall grade. Looks like a major sandbag. OTOH all hard cracks are just plain nasty.

@baladevaleong4799 4 года назад

Freestyle sand bagging. It’s the Australian way 👍🏼

@JimmyBlackhall 2 года назад

Hard to say there was a v10 Boulder in that man

@jlehm 4 года назад

Doubt the video was of the ascent, but was it topped fully out for the FA?

@semmtexx 4 года назад

jlehm 1982 get off it dude.

@jlehm 4 года назад

@@semmtexx What? Video footage is RARELY of the actual ascent when it's edited footage like this. The anchors end basically at the lip. I'm asking if he topped it all the way out. Whatever you're butt hurt about, you need to get over it.

@bensanfordmedia 4 года назад

Nah, this was filmed a couple of weeks after the FA, hence no excitement reaching the anchors etc. I'm not sure if Dan continued through on the FA to the very top.

@jlehm 4 года назад

Ben Sanford now that’s a real answer! Thanks for the info. Cheers.

@user-zu2hv2qc7c 4 года назад

@@jlehm It's 4th class from the anchor to the top, even you could free that bit.

@palminator73 2 года назад

So awesome. Shows labelling yourself as sport/trad/boulder means nothing. Just go climbing and try hard like this young fella.

@benpopowski9945 4 года назад

What's the name of the song starting at 1:14?

@bensanfordmedia 4 года назад

Give - OBOY (Instrumental)

@koniokradus 4 года назад

What's the name of the song starting at 3:50 ?

@bensanfordmedia 4 года назад

It's Stranger in the Woods by PALA

@michalfischer2296 4 года назад

@@bensanfordmedia I cant find it. Could you please send link? Thanks

@lovis_hertel 3 месяца назад

whats the song name?

@magicclimbing 8 месяцев назад

Why not top out?

@puma17ify 4 года назад

cool route but hard to watch with the changing views.

@stephenmneedham 4 года назад

Will he retrieve all that protection he put in? If not, that could be an expensive climb for a school teacher. Or anyone.

@matster77 2 года назад

You don't climb, do you?

@edtaylor9462 4 года назад

Does anyone know the music from 2:25 to 2:47?

@bensanfordmedia 4 года назад

Hey Ed, it's Give - OBOY (Instrumental)

@jdsc100 4 года назад

What grade would this be given for English trad?

@paddyoneill3243 4 года назад

Bold e10 because the gears shit I think

@joshcourt6744 4 года назад

@@paddyoneill3243 gear is shit? Now neither of us really know how the gear is since we can't view each placement, but the wires look like they all set decently into constrictions. Just because they're not cams doesn't mean they're not bomber

@paddyoneill3243 4 года назад

@@joshcourt6744 cams aren't the be all and end all but it looks like he places a few brasses or micros you can't really tell on the video, but he even states himself that the gear is shite on these moves?

@user-zu2hv2qc7c 4 года назад

@@paddyoneill3243 Placements for excellent small wires are available but they are blind and taking a hand off long enough to get the gear in adds substantial difficulty. I think the English grading system would struggle to deal with this route, and it's much better described with a regular climbing grade plus two sentences to explain the gear situation.

@paddyoneill3243 4 года назад

@@user-zu2hv2qc7c our grading system covers the over all technical side of the climb the tech grade.... The e side of the climb can mean anything the fall how shit the holds are how hard it is to place gear is the gear shit, have you done this climb.... I have no idea how ozzie grading works the sentence would this be a brief over all of the type of route?

@user-qt1xk5yx7v 3 года назад

버티고?

@peterrees6346 4 года назад

Harder than punks in the gym?

@seguirparticipando 4 года назад

HELMEEET

@albertlutton9920 2 месяца назад

Hope this helps with your trad climbing mentality. When I started, traditional climbing was all we did. I learned all I could about all the gear, especially the strength specs. This allowed me to use it all confidently and creatively in many varied situations. Bolts however left me with many questions. Who placed them? What kind was used? How much masonry experience did the person have who placed them? I always backed up a bolt with gear if I could. I knew about the gear I was using. I did not know about the bolts I used, and did not trust them blindly. Hope this helps.

@chrisreed2755 3 года назад

Ahh fuck so australian lol

@davidmolero3812 4 года назад

Congrats for that amazing route!! But.. So many people around that guy, and nowbody say.. Hey dude Use the HELMET for your safety!! And for all that new climbers that will be watching this vídeo!!

@ashtontechhelp Год назад

I'm enjoying the climb - however, from a production point of view, the music is too loud (WAY too loud in some sections) and the narration is way too quiet. Needs re-balancing.