In fact I am Tanzanian Man about 47 years old now and i am electrician but by using RU-vid i catch a lot of things about electrical ,thanks youtube for learning me
it went up so fast. I like SIPs too for the reasons you mentioned and also the speed and how much smaller a building team is needed. P.S. You know a whole lot more about this process than I do since you're living it, but I think a house going up in two weeks, insulated, is pretty fast
Truly awesome, the only way in my eyes to build a super insulated somewhat conventional home. That crew definitely ate their Wheaties the day of installing the laminated beams! I am sure the home has been finished for some time now, but it is going to be beautiful in terms of looks with all that cedar, and energy savings. I would love to build one one day, but on a smaller scale, if you make it to big, the kids want to come home to roost!
Love the idea of how efficient a structure built with these would be! If you would run the stabilization filter that RU-vid offers, it would make this a lot less painful to watch. The shakiness is a bit difficult to handle.
Sorry for the late reply. Do you mind me asking if your house is very rural or urban? I'm considering building SIP in a suburb on a site directly off a somewhat busy road and I'm concerned about the noise issues with SIPS. Did you have any noise issues? I'm based in Ireland.
Michael based on your costs your SIP home comes out to $ 25.71 per square foot. That my friend is a great price. I both sell & build SIPS in South Texas. Here's how a building cost less to build if SIPs can cost slightly higher than traditional stick frame ? SIPs are Pre-insulated ! No need to purchase additional insulation, Pre-fabricated & precut when delivered to the jobsite: save 30-45% on framing labor, Electrical is installed in 20-30% faster, Jobsite waste reduced with pre-cut panels - saves appromimately 30% on waste sent to the landfills, Tighter house means smaller HVAC systems - up to 40% savings, House is dried in faster, subs can start sooner - fewer wasted "crew" days, No roof venting in low slope roofing, Better indoor air quality, Buildings are FINISHED FASTER-LESS INTEREST PAID, lastly - WARRANTY - does your lumber manufacturer offer any warranty ? NO but SIPS DO. Thanks for sharing your video.
Ken Duhon , that's good to know. As I stated in an earlier comment, I did not compare stick frame construction costs. It's all about saving watts of electricity for us, not saving costs. After we've lived in the house for about a year I will put up a video reporting our final results.
Thank you for sharing this video with us. I truly enjoyed watch this video. The funny part was the last roof panel during dark. I hope my future house will be like yours! :-)
Thanks for the kind words. Of course it turned out that they should have waited until the next day anyway to install that last panel! Glad you like our home and best of luck getting yours some day.
Thanks for sharing, We are planning on a Sips project in 2018 (fingers crossed). Good to know you are pleased with the install. I think these panels are the greatest thing ever!
Thanks for the comment. I am pleased so far but a year of living in the house will be the real test. We expect to be moving in in mid to late March. I'll have more videos at that point. Good luck on your build.
thank you for the quick response. Hope your enjoying your new home. I am planning on using "Game Camera" on our build as well. So maybe I will have something to show 1 1/2 years from now.
Shipping costs for materials and material handling equipment to build site must have been rather costly I would think. But you got it done, so you must be happy
Edward O'Dwyer - for some reason I can't reply directly to your comment but thank you. I'm glad you are enjoying the videos and glad if it can help you in your future decision making. We are moving into our new off grid home now so we are a little overwhelmed. More videos will be coming as we figure out how things are working.
Michael, this was great - I have been planning to build with SIPs since I "discovered" them last year. Not as grand a place as you have, but home nonetheless. What company supplied your SIPs? I live in Alabama and would like to take my wife to the factory, or at least some models.
As always, fascinating stuff. Thanks for posting it! You said that this style of construction (SIP) is nearly airtight. This could become a humidity/mold problem if you plan to use any gas or propane appliances, and may well concentrate gases from household items (solvents, aerosol propellants) that would otherwise dissipate. You might consider a ventilation system with a heat exchanger that runs a few hours a day. On the other hand it's pretty hard to seal a house so well that it doesn't naturally "breathe" a bit. Anyway, cheers, and thanks again!
Thanks for the kind words, Ian. You've spoiled one of my surprises though! We are installing an ERV system and that will be a separate video as soon as it is up and running! As far as a tight house, we plan to hire someone to perform a blower door test when we finish the build. I told my contractor that I thought we should do it before the drywall went up so we could find and plug any leaks but he talked me into waiting until we are done. That will also be a separate video. I have lots of videos planned but every one is contingent on finishing the home. Countertops are going in today and all other sub contractors are coming back in a few days.
It's also better that you, the homeowner, control the air intake/exhaust of your home, not cracks, leaky windows, jambs etc. Everything is better when "YOU" are in control !
Awesome. I really appreciate your putting the effort into documenting this. I learned a lot. Never heard of this system before, it looks amazing. Is there any flame retardant added to the polystyrene?
First, the house is a perfectly suited for cold climates. We live in east Texas and our issue is much more hot weather than cold. We heat 2400 square feet with one wood burning stove and we don't really need to light it unless the temp gets below about 20 degrees. In the summer, it seems as though it requires more energy than I would have thought to cool the house. Also, on that note, we have ductless mini splits and they have been a major disaster. We have had to replace cassettes (indoor units) about seven times. In 2022 we even changed from LG to Samsung on one entire system (we started with two separate LG systems). We had to replace one of the Samsung cassettes after only one year. The dealer is just as perplexed as we are but I blame the environment caused by the house. The condensers in the units rust out. We installed an ERV unit and a whole house dehumidifer but we NEVER use them anymore. We are totally off grid and have to watch our usage. Because of our high roof design, we have a large attic and the temperature in the attic never varies more than about 5 - 10 degrees from the living area. So in conclusion, if you live in a cold climate then I recommend SIP. But if not, I would do 2X6 studs minimum or maybe double stud wall construction. You can still have a well insulated and very tight house.
They sure sure it will make a lovely home but I would suggest anyone that build a wooden structure like this has at least the first 4 ft along the bottom of the home be concrete because even though it's sitting on a concrete slab wooden homes tend to rot from the bottom up due to moisture that can be sucked right from the ground up into the wood through the concrete and many times lawns are put up right against the wood siding of the home creating even more moisture
I would suggest that you get some good fire detectors EPS has a low melting point near a heat source. Around the world the move is away from EPS to using PIR which has a high melting rate. In Australia the insurance companys charge very high premiums if you can get insurance at all on EPS panel I have work for 25+ years with EPS and in the last 8 to 10 years with PIR panel have clean up after fire has have gone thru the building and there is nothing left of the EPS. Also be aware that EPS will take on moisture if not sealed properly
A little late now! I did not read anything about PIR vs EPS when looking for a SIP builder. I guess I'm going to have to be happy with what we have - and I am. I assume you are in Australia? I think the U.S. might be a little behind in this area.
Not only would I have a large fire extinguisher in every room, I would have (and I think I heard you mention it) a hydrant like system hooked to your water tanks and pond both.
Great build. I'm thinking of making a garden music studio out of SIP panels. Do you put the foam between the panels right? Couldn't see it in the video in the stacking of pannels on the roof. THanks.
That is what a Structural Insulated Panel is actually. Extruded polystyrene foam of different widths sandwiched between two sheets of plywood. So yes, it is already built in. In our case I believe the wall panels were 6.5 inches thick and the roof panels were 10.25 inches thick. It's kind of like living in an ice chest! That information is in one of my videos I believe. Thanks for the comment.
Michael Hoybook Hi, thanks for replying. What I meant was when joining two panels there has to be an extra piece of foam that goes between them, right?
What is the fire rating of these foam panels? What is the wind rating [tornado. hurricane] of the completed home? Why not ICF forms? I have see homes done in a week and a half including roof with pumped concrete. It would have have gone quicker with portable onsite crane, but you are in Texas and a Mexican crane is a lot cheaper. Very interesting video for alternative construction.
I will concede that the fire resistance comes from the drywall attached to the inside of the panels and the metal sheets applied to the outside. As far as the wind rating: "Extensive research has shown that the structural integrity of a SIPs building is significantly superior to a conventional stick framed house in terms of compressive resistance, flexural strength, shear resistance, and uplift resistance." Finally, 8" of concrete has an R value of 1.35. No comparison.
An ICF is an insulated concrete form. It sits on a footer with rebar throughout the forms. The forms can be used for roof structure creating beams. Options are 6" and 8". Will resist Cat 5 hurricane and tornadic winds when done properly. The ICF stays in place once the concrete is poured inside the form. The forms are made from the same material as your foam panels. Was in the concrete pumping business for 20 years and watched the homes built in my neighborhood. Not saying your method is better or worse than ICF, was just curious. Forgot termites also.
There are advantages and disadvantages to most building systems and they all have their uses. A disadvantage of ICFs is that it can be hard to attach a variety of different exterior finishes when you have several inches of foam to attach into. With SIPs you have a consistent OSB surface everywhere, so you can attach a whole variety of finishes very easily, as well as things like exterior light fixtures. Basically, all the products that have been designed to work with standard stick frame construction work with SIPs. If I was building in hurricane country I'd consider building a standard 8" concrete block wall, with 4" panels of rigid insulation glued to the interior face and gypsum board glued to the insulation. This is a standard wall system in many parts of Europe and would be excellent in the south-east of the USA.
The electrician's crew had to learn how to do it but we have outlets and switches in all our exterior walls thanks to "pre cut" raceways for electrical. Here's a link to another person's guide on how this the electrical is run: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-E6hE1-OOGyY.html
Why such a shallow ridge beam? For that span,,, without looking at my span tables,, 24" deep, 30" deep? Is there an internal clearance that dictated the shallow ridge?
Thank you for responding. Like I said,, I haven;t pulled up my span tables, that size double may be perfect,,, but also I live in snow country,, my required live load may be way more than yours. There was one point I was disappointed at. To preface, I've built many, designed many, assembled just one SIP house (It was a nightmare,, nothing fit anything.) I did , I believe note, your slab edge 'talks to' the outside environment. I began doing ' isolated ' slabs 30 plus years ago. I only do isolated slabs on any heated structure today. You are spot on as to thermal bridging, a conventional 2x4 wall may have R-13 in it, but with bridging losses the wall is truly about R=6 or R-7,, you got that,, right with you. But consider,,, that exposure of the slab edge thermal bridges the entire floor of the house. Concrete is a water and thermal sponge. Water, the temp and humidity of a single point in a slab is,, the entire slab shall be. Concrete is about R-1 per foot,, that is an exaggeration,, but not much. If the ground is 54F the entire slab is 54F. If the edge of the slab is exposed to exterior cold,, say 0F,, then the entire slab is 0F,,,,, or,,,, your 60F slab is trying really, really hard to heat the 0F great outdoors to that same 60F indoors. My slabs are normally poured on foam with foam edges or at worst, I use a burial grade treated lumber. Plumbing and electrical intrusions from below are carefully detailed so that the concrete does not fall through along side and come in contact with the soil.. The slab should be fully isolated from footings, soils, and outside air,,, absolutely. Heavy plastic under the foam, vapour and insect control. The change and benefit are immediate and startling, The slab will only and always be the same temp as the indoor air. You now have a thermal mass that 'flywheels' stabilizes your indoor air temps. Even my workshop, even my garage,,, The workshop, 1,000 square feet in Michigan,, a woodburner fired up once a week when I need to work on something out there only,, and I have never frozen a can of paint out there. It is also the coolest space to be in through early summer. Your caution if you ever do it,,, concrete curing on top of foam,,, sets FAST and hot. Use a retardant, never use a fiberglass reinforced concrete on foam. (sets in minutes, if not seconds.. too fast)
Very astute! Actually I was wrong in my description. It turns out that SIPs are designed to match the width of ordinary dimensional lumber. I knew that a 2 X 4 is 3 1/2" wide and a 2 X 6 is 5 1/2" wide so I "assumed" that a 2 X 12 was 11 1/2" wide. WRONG! A 2 X 12 is 11 1/4" wide - which is actually the thickness of these panels. Thank you for the comment.
I notice some areas didn't have roof overhangs and others did. Also, the roof beams appear to be resting only on the 2 edges of 1/2" OSB unless there is a solid wood member in the wall under where those beams are. Do you know?
First, on the only short section where there was not an overhang they came in later and added the overhang with lumber. The contractor explained why they did this at the time but I don't remember what he told me. And second, yes the beams are resting on the SIPs. This design was engineered by a SIP construction engineering firm so I guess I trust they know the limitations.
This is our first home build ever and we are finding out what everyone told us in advance about expect everything to take longer than expected. The painting is finished and we are waiting for counter tops, electrical, plumbing and HVAC to come and finish up. Even the siding guy has done very little in weeks. I have a "sub video" in the works but it's hard to find time with a full time job. I'll try to get something up soon. Thanks for the comment.
Not sure where this is but SIPs here in CA and in GA require 2x6 joining beams especially on the room, so you think that osb and foam will hold up to a snow load or to high winds?
If you are referring to the 2 X 6 "spline" between each panel then yes, these were assembled this way. One thing is for sure, there is no snow load here in Texas.
Is there a reason you used panels sandwiched with plywood vs cement board? In "my mind", it would seem logical to NOT use anything constructed of wood to enhance the moisture/mildew resistance of using foam panels. Just curious.....
Good question? I guess the number one reason would be availability. I didn't see any SIP manufacturer who promoted cement board outer skins. It would probably be more expensive which was already a concern. And, it would potentially be more difficult to nail to. Once the OSB is covered properly, moisture hopefully will never be a concern. Thanks for the question though.
The oriented strand board (OSB) actually has considerable strength, and importantly, flexibility, compared to cement board. Here in earthquake country where I live, the engineering of OSB is well understand and houses can be be built very resilient to earthquakes with it. Cement board is strong but very brittle and can't flex and recover it's shape in an earthquake. With a properly detailed wall design moisture should be handled OUTSIDE the wall. The finishes should be designed to shed moisture back outside and have ventilation incorporated so that if any moisture does get in, it can evaporate back out again. Look up "rain screen siding" here on RU-vid and you'll see how that's done. You don't want your structural walls getting wet in the first place, whether they're OSB or cement board.
Innova SIPs factory in Miami, FL makes SIPs panels (wind rated for Miami-Dade County) with OSB, Plywood, Concrete Fiber board, Fiberglass, and now Magnesium Oxide which is mold resistant, fire resistant, and ready for any finish, exterior or interior without priming or preparing.
Hi Micheal! A great build/design, I had to convert the inches to metric, but 292mm roof is pretty good. It looked like the builders were pretty inexperienced, were they Mexicans? :) Some of them looked very dark. I'm building a 60m2 extension to my house in London using SIPs, which adds £120k ($149k), 200mm for the outer walls/roofs, 150 for inner dividing walls, to give better sound/heat insulation. As you found out, SIP houses are very quiet when finished! I can send you the detailed plans privately if you'd like to see them. At what stage are you at now? Do you have more videos of all the renewable features?
Thanks John and congratulations on your add-on. It will be very energy efficient. Yes, as a matter of fact, most trades here which use manual labor and work long hours are usually made up of Mexican workers. The job foreman who constructed the exterior of the house is Mexican and he has been building houses for about 30 years and his whole crew were Mexicans as well. He is an amazing builder and they are all hard working guys. My general contractor was very impressed with them. We are at the "finish carpenter" stage. Doors are being hung, closets finished, crown molding, etc. Our cabinets are being made and we should be seeing them along with painters and final electrical and plumbing within the next 2 to 3 weeks. It's getting exciting. Can't wait to verify that our off grid systems are going to perform. I will have separate videos of our water catching system when that is complete as well as our solar water heating system and catalytic converter wood burning stove and mini split ductless air conditioning. Can't wait.
John Smith. Being other than american doesn't automatically mean being lazy and unprofesional. you talk just like all your "brave" leaders who claim democracy all around the world but their country is so rotten. i thought that politicians are a separate species, but it's not the case for you. sorry if i upset you, but putting labels without knowing reality hurts too many people who don't deserve that. and Michael's words have hardened what i just said. i am romanian and i only hear about romanians who steal in other countries. we only her very little about all those great specialists taken for free , after we paid for their schooling. i don't really care what you think, maybe it's in our nature to see and remember bad things first, so i was only making a remark, i'm not upset about you.
The house was about $115 per square foot. I guess I could have used metal framing instead of wood on the interior walls but I didn't want to. Yes, the thicker the panel, the higher the R-value.
The panels have chases running through them for running electric... see this video for more details: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-E6hE1-OOGyY.html
Thanks to Thomas Hood for answering. Yes there are several videos on RU-vid showing how to do this and as a matter of fact, I showed them to the electrician because this was a first for his crew.
It looks like they are using a nail gun, I would think you would use long screws. Also the interior walls should have been made of these sips too, and the roof beams out of wood i beams, also precut.
Rokon Montana i cant speak for him, but the 2500 sf house I am building right now, SIPs were about 45k. There are other expenses though, foundation, wooden beams, dimensional lumber for interior rooms, etc.
Not a very thought out process since plywood set on concrete will delaminate in a short time, even with sill seal put on first. The plywood will then turn to mush eventually.
I need a few of those guys here by me who ever has a mexican worker they dont let them go no where last year i had 13 mexican guys now got 2 left i hope things get back to normal or i dont know how we gonna build, because noone else whants to work they ask if the construction is inside out of the hot sun
Yes it is great to have some people working for you that you can pay minimum wage and then deduct social security, medicare, state and local taxes which you won't send in and not pay worker's comp, unemployment tax and if they don't run fast enough you just run them off. It makes it impossible for an honest contractor to compete. I hope a law is passed to put every person who is caught hiring an illegal in prison for year each person they hire.``
What about cracking noises coming from the SIP panels after 4 years? And do you think the house is less noise from inside sounds and outside sounds compared to standard wood framing?
The job foreman said this is perfectly normal and in fact many times they are out of "plumb" more than an inch or two at those heights. The beam was actually the correct length.
We will be moving in 1 to 2 months. Cabinets and trim are going in now. I will post a completed project video after we move in. I drive the 15 miles out to check on it every evening after work and it's kind of depressing to have to leave the place to come back to town each night. We can't wait to live out there. Good luck with your build.
We used Ferrier Custom Homes out of Fort Worth, Texas and they contracted with Fischer SIPs out of Louisville, Kentucky to design and construct the panels. Good luck.
Ferrier Custom Homes out of Fort Worth, Texas was the SIP architect and they used Fischer SIPs out of Louisville, Kentucky to design and construct the panels.
Way more, just kidding. Some say more but then if you factor in the speed, it equals out and you end up with a super tight, superior structural strength and a bunch of other things. Get on the computer and do research till you're blind, then you'll understand 50% of it ! lol. Sorry but there are so many factors involved. Your own research will be much better than I or anyone could possibly tell you. Hope this helps you ?
Lester Hersh Actually, you see our money being spent in the videos! None left for the safe! That's actually our safe/safe room, in case of a storm. The door opens inward and it's secured to the slab. There might be some personal protection items in it also.
Michael Hoybook my grandfather ran a rainwater catch system to a large tank. they use it for toilets, showers, laundry and sprinklers the kitchen is run from their well. I think both have a water softener. saves a bunch of money.
If you are referring the exterior SIP walls, there is nothing but electrical. You can videos on RU-vid on how that is done. We have a small 2 X 4 build out wall going up from our AV center for all satellite TV coax and possible CAT6 cable in future but everything else in the house is WI-FI or ethernet over AC.
Thanks. R value is a little misleading with SIPs. Because of the lack of thermal bridging and the air tightness, the "performance" R-values are approximately 30% larger than rated values. I don't know what you mean by "You OH&S is appalling"?
I don't normally reply to negative comments but obviously you did not do any research on SIP constructed homes because I did before spending so much money. SIP homes are far superior structurally than the more common stick built homes. Look it up. The only weather danger we face is a severe tornado and if it's an F4 or F5, it doesn't matter what you're living in.
The plumbing (water supply line) simply needs one penetration then all other water lines are run through the attic and then down stud walls and through cabinetry. Of course drain lines were roughed in before the slab was poured. Plumbing isn't too difficult. Electrical is a little harder. All S.I.P.s come with pre "drilled" vertical and horizontal chases which work out to be code standard heights. The electricians used these chases but they had to do some studying first because this was their first experience with S.I.P.s. Here is an example video of how it's done: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jJqrA5-IF34.html. Thanks for the question.
They didn't put the 2x12 between the roof panels. What held them together? I've built about 10 of these houses using sip panels from Martin Gramitica. The Tampa bay Buccaneers Superbowl winning team kicker in Pinellas county Florida I don't think these erected this house right at all
I see what you are saying while watching the video also. However, I know I saw splines in the panels. I'm thinking they arrived onsite with the splines already installed on one side.
Thanks for the compliment but keep in mind I never intended to make "professional" looking videos. I am simply trying to pass along what I am learning and I even refused to monetize my videos. I'm not making a penny for all my efforts.
with a proper HVAC system with fresh air, and dehumidifying I doubt it would be a problem, now if you make it air tight, and have no method of air and moisture exchange, I could see it happening.
I'm not sure I understand your question exactly but the difference between "under roof" and "living area" is the sum of the garage area and the large patio at the end of the house. Those two areas add up to about 1200 square feet. Our living area is a little over 2400 square feet of a single story home with a large attic space but that attic space is not counted in the square footage.
My wife and I drew basic sketches and took them to a local "plan shop". He was not an architect. These plans then went to the SIP manufacturer who made engineering drawings of their own (which I think cost us another $500) and built the panels from these which also showed the installers how to put them together.
Yeah, I thought about it but remember - it's an above ground "SAFE ROOM"!! My regular safes are in one of the videos I believe also but ALL of my guns are not in them - if you know what I mean! I live in Texas you know!
QUE APURo hay ,en la construcion de una casa , si es para vivir, y proteger personas y bienes , Hacerla de ladrillo es la inversion mas grande y ,o no perecedera , que hay,Que me diga si no es un galpon ,por mas detalles de confot que tenga.ES tan modular, como una casilla de perro.....y la platea de hormigon , tan fina ,que no puede contener peso... No tienen grampas , de hierro , para paneles solo el peso la contiene.....asi no imposible, pero alli no les importa , solo es dinero y talar montes , ......
house's are designed and meant to breath, an air tight house is a mold filled house, a death house. Houses create condensation with'n them, just like a nice ice cold glass or bottle does in the summer time. Getting this moisture out of the house through allowing the house to breath naturally is how this is accomplished, any carpenter worth a damn knows this, an so do most engineers. A stick house also has strength in its structure, They can with stand strong winds, or heavy snow falls. Using OSB, or pressboard or fiberboard or chipboard all have the same weakness, WATER. An should never EVER under any circumstance be used on the exterior of a home. I am sure this house is going to LOOK really pretty when its done. But you could not get me to live in it.
Actually homes are not "meant to breathe' and it is becoming code to limit the amount of air transfer (continuous insulation). Breathing is ineffieciency. Air exchangers take care of any issues your are assumming would happen in a SIPs house , or any high performance home for that matter. Also, stick built homes have OSB floors, exterior walls and roofs similar to a SIPs built house. Although most SIPs manufacturers use OSB that is specifically made for SIPs, with an Exposure 1 rating which is much better than standard OSB. I am betting you do in fact live in a home with OSB wall and roof sheathing as that has been the most common building pratice since the late 1980s when it was approved for such use. The only differnce being that most stick framed homes have the much cheaper OSB on them. There is plenty of information availalbe on SIPs, you should read some of it.
@@ToddLindsay630, Thank you. You understand this well and Greg Ward understands nothing. His statement that homes need to be leaky is beyond stupid...sorry Greg Ward, but you have no understanding of building codes or science.
Well, that's pretty much how SIPs come. Of course there is Carlisle WIP 300 HT underlayment on top of that, with furring strips and metal roofing on top of that.
OSB is standard for SIPs. I prefer plywood. I haven't built a SIP house. But I'm considering it and I would try to get an "upgrade" to plywood if the manufacturer would do it. Typically plywood costs 2-3 times more than OSB. But you get what you pay for. On the other hand, if you do a REALLY good job of the exterior water resisting finishes, then the OSB should be perfectly fine. In fact, it might make sense to save money by using OSB instead of plywood and putting that money into upgraded exterior water resisting finishes.
Sorry you don't like it. Research shows this type of construction is 300% stronger that stick framed homes. I'm just going to have to believe the research.
Michael Hoybook well its just common sense the sheeting does not stager through out its a big deal when the walls are put up the joining 2×4 can't be nailed when you calculate wind and other my money is on stick built on site .and in a manner that ties the hole house together .
I was disappointed to see that the panels are constructed using OSB - oriented strand board. Commonly called "chip board". This product really is substandard. The only OSB i allow on the job site is to cover mud to give the crew something to walk on.
SIP panels are a real challenge to repair after leaks and worthless on Timber frames where the frame moves the panel do not then you are chasing Air Infiltration so make sure you are sealing them right and realizing they are not always the best tool for the job
Fact ? percentage failure ratio ? Of the 3 million plus homes, factories, office buildings, hotels,etc built by the Sip method worldwide, just how many can you prove to be ' Worthless ' ? Prove your allegations, or continue to confirm your ignorance, if you can. Then add to your ignorance by showing the failure ratio of Stick built conventional builds.
Please reread I said they are challenging to repair and i stand by if you install them on your TIMBER FRAME they are an air leak waiting to happen and that you should make sure you seal them right and I can only prove every customer that I have had with these on a timber Frame (roof excluded ) had wished they had not used them
