Purchased my Troy Built 6 HP Horse Tiller 43 years ago, and it's still going strong. You just cannot beat a Tecumseh engine. After tilling up my back yard for a large garden, I started a tilling business, unit paid for itself the first year. In all that time, replaced one set of belts, rebuilt carburetor, and went through 3 sets oy tines.
I bought a horse off a guy down the street from me. The thing look brand new. He paid over 2,000 for it but sold it to me for 500 !!! Made me happier then a pig in slop 😁
Beautiful machine. Glad to see you kept it original. If it was me I'd probably put a harbor freight clone engine on it because I don't know a whole lot about points. Is that a cub cadet tractor in the background? What year? Mid 60's? Nice restore.
That tiller is newer than the 70’s due to having the split gearcase. I had a 1981 with the Kohler and it didn’t have that feature. They are great machines.
Wonderful job on the Troy. I've had two in my life and you just cant beat a Troy before they sold out. Cant speak for the new ones-MTD- but didn't hear anything good. Sold my first for more than I paid for it. aint selling the second. 17 years old and still works like new. Wish I could say the same. Good job
Nice job on the tiller. I to put a new carb on my k161 and for $20 it's a no brainer and runs oh so smooth. I noticed lots of comments saying where can you get parts but when I went to my local small engine shop they had axel and tine shaft seals in stock. Just found dozer plow and frame for mine and that is what brought me to your channel as most frames are tubular but mine is a bar frame and I wanted to see how it hooks on to the machine. Thanks for posting.
Does it have reverse? I am working on one that has a reverse disk that is worn out. (It is Right inside the belt area) but I really don't think I would want this thing coming back at me in lumpy ground. Bruce
Yes, It has reverse. You just have to lift up on the handle to disengage the belt then it will go in reverse. You definitely should fix it. It will make it a lot easier to use the tiller.
hello my tiller stopped gripping after half an hour of use. Turned but did not turn properly and engine started smoking. it's brand new and I am a novice. would appreciate anyone's advice. thanks
I have two horse tillers. I love them, but then I bought a BCS tiller and it hands down is the better tiller. They cost much more, but if you can come across a used one you might want to check it out.
The recoil is difficult, there are quite a few pieces. I just replaced the rope and cleaned everything. There are 4 phillips head screws holding the pulley together, you will maybe need a plumbers torch to heat up the screws, and a #2 phillips impact driver to remove, mine were super tight. Be mindful of the engagement pawls which only go one way and have a spring under each. The cup the pawls slide thru to engage has several washers ( i recommend using your phone and take as many pics as necessary to be comfortable with the disassembly, installation of the rope, which just loops around a pin and then is pinched between the pulley halves with the 4 each # 2 phillips screws. It may be a biaaaatch to engage the main return spring, i had to pull out the spring, preload it and place the ends in where they go. Be very careful with that spring, you only have to load it enough to fit it in the housing and on the pully. Location and placement of the center screw and it's shims or washers is crucial. Don't worry about the rope and pre loading the spring more till you have the starter rope handle on the rope. Pull some rope into the housing and use the little notch in the pulley to turn that loop of rope in the starting, ( clockwise) direction. Usually 3 to 5 wraps of spring preload is all that is needed. There is a very small spring on the underside of the starter cup. It returns the pawls to a neutral position when you let the rope go after starting. Test the function ... you must understand it to fix it.Be patient,take your time and fully understand how it functions. A word of warning here ... If you need to remove the main return spring to re assemble properly use a face shield ... safety glasses will NOT PROTECT YOUR FACE AND TEETH, also some leather gardening gloves to handle that greasy grimy spring. Be sure to clean everything really well (straight Spray nine is my preference) and be sure to lube the spring and other moving parts. WD-40 here. Good luck and hit me up if ya need to
Where do get parts for a machine that old? You replaced some seals and the carburetor. I know the older machines like your were built in Troy NY by Gardenway or something like that. I agree with you 100% that your machine is 10 times anything you could get today at the big box stores. I would love to find one that needed minor work but am hesitant because I don’t know where to get parts.
Nothing you can buy now can come close to those old Troy-bilts! If you lift the handle, you should have reverse too. And I believe you should have 2 belts on the pulleys. I'll have to look at my manual.
transammike Thanks for the info! I will have to check it out how the pulley works.. I did find the reverse once i started using it tho.. It is a great machine!
transammike I don't think so. The two sets of pulleys is for moving the one belt to the other set of pulleys for a higher or lower speed, depending on what you want. That machine has a reverse. Totally lower the motor, so the reverse disk engages and the belt goes slack.
+transammike Only 1 belt on this type of tiller. NOTE TO OTHERS WITH THIS TYPE OF TILLER: Use the belt that is made for the tiller and NOT a 20" or 21"x 0.5" wide belt that you can buy at auto parts stores. The taper on the sides of the factory belt fits the drive pulleys and will transmit maximum power from the engine to the tines. You can order these belts from a number of online suppliers, such as Oregon Power Equipment, Jacks Small Engine, etc. as well as a number of local small engine shops.
+The5upermann1 It sounds to me like the carburetor is running a little lean at idle. The reverse "gear" is a rubber coated disc that engages the drive shaft. The rubber will wear off eventually, but it'll last quite a while if it is used sparingly. The disc is easily replaceable.
@transammike Belt count depends on the model year on the tiller. My 1981 model is a single belt, and allows for multiple speeds, by changing the belt from front pulleys to back pulleys. There are models that are two speeds, and use two belts. These models have the same size pulleys in both positions. make sure to check before you simply add a second belt, or try to run the tiller with a single.
Troy bilt still makes the seals for it. It was a popular tiller made for a long time. You can search Troy Bilt horse tiller seals online and they should be easy to find.
where did you get the carburetor from and what was the part number on it ? I have just got myself the same kind of machine could not get it to idle right no matter what I do , what would be the exact model number on your machine ?
First you should verify what engine you have. These tillers came with three different engines a 6 hp Temucseh, 7hp Kohler, and 8 hp Briggs. My machine has a Kohler k161 7 hp engine.. There are several websites online that sell after market parts for these old cast iron engines. Try isavetractors.com. He also has a youtube channel and seem very knowageable.
+The5upermann1 thank you for your quick response , this engine having to be a 7 horsepower engine , I did automotive repair for 38 years and I'm finding this small engines to be pesky
Nice video. I have a similar tiller, although I have a Tecumseh 8hp on it. What is that metal frame that goes around your engine? Also, what is that yellow tractor in the back? I'll go see your other videos.
+Alan Meijer It is a bumper guard that protects the engine, and you can also install plow on it. I just got a plow for it. I might make a video when I install it. I think this is an earlier model horse and has an older style bumper guard.
+The5upermann1 can you tell me what go this is I just recently got one that look just like yours I can't read serial number or model number and advice about this is greatly appreciated thanks
Deep as you want it to lol! Realistically though, deep enough for anything you need to plant or till up. Like plenty deep. I’d say almost a foot depending how worn down the blades are
No problem if people would simply add an inline shut off valve & run the carb dry...no problem.I just bought a 79' horse with blade & a v shaped implement all manuals even original sales receipt looks like new .... a family bought an old farmhouse & this was in the barn! I got it for $300.00 (as advertised) & never talked him down on price ... no gardening for me just making an atv trail for my little G/Daughter
