I want you to know that you are very much appreciated, my friend. Your video is filled with so much useful information, I have the exact same problem and I wouldn't of found the problem if it wasn't for you. Thanks for explaining as you went along. By far the best passat video. 👍
Got similar on my 1.6tdi passat. It’s sensor 4 which is also a right pain to get at. I’m too old to be lying on my back under cars these days so it’s gonna have to go into the garage to be fixed.
If you place a potentiometer (variable resistor) connected to the pins to the computer, you can increase/decrease the resistance and the temp should fluctuate on the scan tool. I wanted to fix this myself, but when I found out where this sensor is located, I decided to just set up an appointment and have a real mechanic do that work. I have no idea why VW made this so damn difficult to get to? I don't have a lift to do this work. Since the appointment is a month out, I just put the new sensor on, and tied it around some other cables. I know that the EGT before the turbo isn't 930 C. The melting point of aluminum is 660 C. Since my whole engine block isn't red hot, I know that's a false reading. Just need to trick out the sensor until I can get it fixed. This is just what I decided to do. Maybe not your choice, but you can decide. Addendum: In my case, I couldn't get my vehicle into the shop for a couple of weeks, so I just hooked the new sensor up and laid it under the engine cover, hoping that some heat would get to it. After driving it for a while, it popped a P2080 Exhaust Gas code and a P244C Manufacturer Control code. The ECU is not getting a temperature that makes sense (probably only about 80 C in that location) so that's a Low Exhaust Gas Temp. If the sensor was installed, the EGT should be in the 240 C range. I'm sure the logic wants to see correlation with all the sensors. But at least I don't get the Limp Home Mode (flashing glow plug light). There's nothing actually wrong with the vehicle except the bad sensor. So I will have to get by with those codes until the shop can install the new sensor.
My daughter has the same issue only the battery light is on along with the pedal compressor light. This happened when her father attempted to attach the battery….he touch the negative post to the positive and vice versa
hello my car is shaking and smoke. lose power, temperature go high fast. When you disconnect orange cable it's stop, but have faut and scared to drive like that. When I connect orange back its starting again shaking and smoke. please help
@@KITS_Auto_and_Truck_Repair thanks for replying. But I checked my antifreeze looks OK and oil too. Is any different way how to check my head gasket is bad?
@@KITS_Auto_and_Truck_Repair how to check if its working or not or should i replace it Thank you so much sir as i have this problem for years and no mechanics in ma area can resolve it they always say intetmetent fault they just delete it but it cones back Thank you for your time
@@pinoyness5110 I recommend you take it to the Dealership for diagnosis because it's gonna require specific knowledge and a wiring diagram to test the circuit!!
I NEED YOUR HELP FRIEND I HAVE A HΥUNTAΙ COUPE INITIALLY THE FIRST O2 SENSOR SHOWED 0.8 VOLTS FUEL TRIMS AT IDLE -25% AND THE REAR O2 SHOWED 0.2 VOLTS. I HAD A FALSE FRONT O2 SENSOR AND REPLACE FROND Ο2 SENSOR .NOW FIRST O2 READS 0.5 TO 0.8 VOLTS FUEL TRIMS AT IDLE DROPPED TO -12 TO -14% AND REAR O2 READS STEADY 0.6 VOLTS.EXHAUST GASES BACK TO EXHAUST ANALYZER COMES NORMALLY.THAT'S IMPROVED OTHER CONDITION STILL RICH NOT TRUE....WHAT DO YOU THINK IS GOING ON? ALSO THE MAP SENSOR AT IDLE READS 12 IN/HG. IS THAT A GOOD MEASUREMENT?ENGINE IS 4 CYLINDER 120 HORSE I USUALLY IDLE IN THESE CARS 9 IN/HG READING MAP .WHAT WOULD YOU RECOMMEND I LOOK AT?