See www.myturbodies... for details on fixing limp mode. If the problem is carbon buildup or rust inside the turbo control ring or vanes, you can clean it out. Actuators can also be replaced for most models.
BE VERY CAREFUL! For instance I know someone who ended up paying a Main Dealer £3,500 to cure an intermittent Limp Home problem. Parts changed were injectors - but that didn't do it! On the next visit they changed the camshaft! (why?) but that didn't do it! The cylinder head was then changed but that didn't do it either! Next they replaced the turbo.but the vehicle was still the same. Eventually they did cure the problem but they would not say what they had done! I would guess that they replaced the injector wiring harness and its cradle because on the 110 BHP VAG 1.9 turbo-diesel these are service items. Allegedly the intense vibration can make the conductors crack inside the plastic so the wiring loom should be replaced every 30,000 miles. Not many people know that but it really is no joke when a customer ends up paying $5000 for what is basically the Main Dealer's DIY apprenticeship scheme. Take care!.
+Jane Gerrard A real beauty of cack-handedness was when a lady drove her VW Passat turbo diesel to the local HGV service station for some advice. "My engine is making a funny noise" she said. The HGV mechanics were all ready to dive in but the boss said hold your horses. He asked whether any work had been done on the car recently. "Oh yes" was the answer "the garage put a new cam-belt in it." Right he said. What you have got to do is take the car back and tell them to do the job properly. Its the age old problem of "Can't get the right staff anymore!" Other horror stories have been to do with Emissions particularly with petrol driven vehicles. In one case a perfectly good car was scrapped after a bozo "mechanic" swapped the catalytic converter. A great deal of money was spent for nothing as the emissions were exactly the same after the cat costing £180 ($250) had been changed. The owner of the car didn't want any more bills like that so for the car it was Game Over. At the time there was a scrappage scheme to get rid of thirsty clunkers but the new car used more fuel than the old one! With emissions faults favorites should be spark plugs, HT leads (the carbon string type really ought to be changed after two years or 30,000 miles) air filter and especially the front oxygen sensor/Lambda sensor. If the emission failure is excess oxides of nitrogen, suspect a higher than normal burn temperature. Running ever so slightly lean will do this. If the car has a MAF (Mass Air Flow sensor) that employs an electrically heated wire to measure the flow, the fault may be the odd milligram of dirt, dust, oil or pollen burnt onto the hot-wire. In England the clever solution is to use a kids paint-brush and oven cleaner. One removes the MAF then carefully paints oven cleaner onto the wire. Leave overnight. In the morning rinse the MAF wire with water then shake out any excess water. Refit to car, emissions now perfect, cost just pennies and time. Incidentally scanning the car is a waste of time and money with this fault as the ECU (computer) doesn't know! It is in fact the old Golden Rule of computers, RUBBISH IN = RUBBISH OUT. To sum up, those who are not savvy are likely to be hit with bills for all manner of spare parts which are not needed. It could even be a case of fraud if the used parts which were perfectly OK end up being sold online. Take care!
many thanks for an informative video. Volvo I just got is the first car I've had with a VNT (& im getting turbo related fault code),it's good to know what I'm dealing with before stripping down & a video is worth a thousand words
Hi guys I am flitting a hx 40 turbo set up on a audi b6 tdi wih holset hx need some information on the set up really Will appreciate all the information thx
So I’m pretty sure the exhaust blows around the outer shell and when the veins open, the flow is basically shot directly into the turbo fins to build boost fast. In the video you stated they close to build boost and open to divert around which is how a normal turbo works.
Awesome video! Thanks for sharing this. Question about the 4 - 10mm bolts that surround the housing of the control ring... they dont seem to hold the two parts of the turbo together.. i broke off two of them by accident and was still able to open up my turbo for a well deserved clean.. but now i wonder what their function is
This guys a genius. Makes it look way easier than it is. So how do you take the turbo out, dismantle it like that, clean it, fix / solve the limp mode problem then put it all back together? Do you run a garage, if so where are you located?
First and foremost good informative vid! I think mine is the last sign of fails. Hesitation and the acceleration. Not super obvious to be rough but feel able. The Audi is 240k is cleaning the VNT will do the job? THX
What size vacuum hose is that for the VGT? My jetta has been idling rough after driving for an hour. Runs great when just starting out the day. But after an hour its rough idle, i have no check engine codes and believe its bad vacuum lines.
Most of the time vacuum solenoid failed, and brings torbo to overheat and failed, I just bought a replacement turbo cartridge of the eBay and fix my turbo , but the problem was turbo actuator vacuum solenoid failure.
So a boost actuator mounted the other way around does the same thing if I understand this correctly. I'm planning on making a VNT turbo car without electronics..
Thank you so much. Your video was just what I have been searching for. I have an under boost on my VW Amarok BiTurbo, triggering Limp Mode. This video explains it very well.
Finaly someone that presents a vnt without inside torque screws for the vnt mechanism so it can easily be removed and cleaned. But how to dismantle and clean them?
Hi you did not mentioned the position sensor and associated wiring that causes fault code and low power I work on vw every day I can fix the actuator on a vnt 15,17 or kp-39 but no answer for the stock turbo on the BRM engine like you have in the video and the actuator is pretty hard to remove in place in the car the motor and Turbo you have for a display was quite clean it must had no millage. ho and I almost forgot the white and black check valve is important and the VP on ALH tend to leak
Pretty nice video. I got my turbo checked after I got overboost error. It had over .8 bar boost over the demanded boost. The turbo geometry wasnt working properly, i had some oil in the compresor, but not a huge amount and the scroll was hard to move by hand, it was stuck at the first glance. I got it upgraded to gt2052v and it's a day and night different, cannot wait to get back in my car tomorrow.
Hello don't spose you could help. I've fitted a borg warner instead of a garret now I've seen ur vids I've relised whats wrong and I swap the turbo actuators over or are they veins working the opersit way thanks
Si eu am facut asa ceva, dar eu fac aceste reglaje direct pe motor, deoarece eu consider ca ajustarea treptei de cupla al turbo-ului este personalizat / fiecare motor in parte, deoarece nici un motor nu are exact aceeasi uzura cu un alt motor, iar setarile si reglajele de fabrica NU mai sunt oportune !
how can i know if my turbo fail without strip down from my car?? sometimes i fell the power after 2100-2200rpm sometimes works below 2000 rpm.i hear the sound when is activated when is in no gear...someone says that my turbo don't works fine becouse the hose that goes to turbo are not so hard when i make presure with hand.any advice?? thx
I have a skoda octavia 3 (2017), have 46 000km, and have sensor problem on turbine, when i drive my Engine menagment lamp goes on and off, and my car loses power..like my turbine is in limp mode... codes are P029900, P00AF00, P256300. any help? its 1.6 TDI (81kw)
Great video! When I shift gears on my ALH it hesitates for every bit of 2 to 4 seconds then I get a sudden surge of power. Should I take my turbo apart and clean it?
Hoping you can help me out. I have a 2011 Audi a3 tdi and have code p0299 underboost. Audi replaced the turbo about 1000 miles ago due to failure. The car drives perfectly when the temperature is below 40f outside, but as soon as the weather gets warmer, I start getting issues. The car will take off from a stop and all of a sudden surge with a little power, then throw the glow plug light into limp mode. I've tested the boost actuator, it holds vacuum, tested the solenoid when running and it shows vacuum. I can't visually see cracks in any pipes, but am unsure of how to do a boost leak test. This car has had multiple egr and dpf issues in the past that audi has been unable to fix. Any ideas as to what I should do? I'm tired of going into limp mode on the freeway and having to shut the car off and restart.... Thank you so much for the videos!!!
What a FANTASTIC video!!! I am dealing with a 2005 2.0L TDi Passat with weird running conditions that are being affected by the turbo. What year and engine size turbo are you working on in this video?
Hello friends, I have a error code p0299 or under boost and a mechanic told me that is the actuator and I need to change the entire turbo, is that normal or it can be changed just the actuator ? Thx in advance and boost it up 😁
Hello Does anyone know if I have to adapt ne actuator after change. I have changed mine: the mechanical part works fine (I have boost) but i read P2563 - Turbocharger boost contro position sensor circuit. If i plug the old actuator to the computer all is ok. Is it faulty feedback loop circuit or I have to calibrate it somehow? Thanks
Can a sticky VNT cause high DPF pressure. I have mine cleaned and reads 40 mb to 300 on high revs & the soot goes up like crzy as revs goes up. I dont know what else to check. Thanks
Am i right ? more vacuum means more boost ? I have install new actuator, and i get boost at approx 2000rpm, i think the boost should come approx 1600rpm, maybe i can adjust on this rod ? (No error codes)
That is the most poorly designed, and overly complicated turbo I have every seen... WTF? . It probably does the worst job possible when it comes to creating boost!? Why does "Volts" wagon make a diesel engine anyways, it don't need no VOLTS to run!? The turbine actually depends on the wasted diesel being sucked by the EGR valve into the exaust. Otherwise the part of the turbo that is effected by "carbons" isn't getting any fuel OIL to lubricate it. So basically you can't really delete the EGR valve without putting in a different turbo. . The VolkswagOn diesel engines are the worst, and most unbelievably poorly and over-complicated engines in the world!!
What if the turbine makes loud hissing noise, like it's screaming, after 1800 RPM. Trust me, I know the sound of a healthy turbo. Mine is not healthy at all. What is the cause? It's Golf MK5 1.9 TDI, 66 kW, 90 horse power, year 2008.
could these be the issue. my engine does this weird thing where near max load it accelerates faster when the throttle is not pushed in all the way. its not the sensor. i tested it and it read 100% when the pedal was pushed to max. i believe its either that or a faulty injector but my soot emission levels are so low that i believe the injectors are good. the intake valves would use some walnut cleaning but that doesnt really explain it
Initially, the P2457 code came up. I drove a while without addressing the problem. On the way home from AZ, my turbo would cut out showing turbo problem (code 12--blinking). I was able to turn off the engine and it''d reset and drive normal for a while. No sure what to do. Any suggestions?
Sorry out off topic , I have 2015 ford ranger T6 2.2 4 cylinder turbo diesel engine my problem is when I hit almost a 100 kph a strange chain like sound ( like dragging chains on cement floor very fast ) and it stops when pass 100 kph . What do you think was that sound ? Thanks alot for helping us :)
I have an issue with My mk 4 Golf TDI 110bhp model....I can accelerate hard and every now again the turbo just dies...as soon as I switch off and restart it's fine again?? Ive changed the Boost/vacuum sensor which sits on the bulkhead and I've replaced the map sensor on the intercooler pipe but it hasn't changed . I've also removed the Eye valve too.
how can i know if my turbo fail without strip down from my car?? sometimes i fell the power after 2100-2200rpm sometimes works below 2000 rpm.i hear the sound when is activated when is in no gear...someone says that my turbo don't works fine becouse the hose that goes to turbo are not so hard when i make presure with hand.any advice?? thx
bonjour esque la valeur de pression qui fait bouger la tige c'est la même à la sortie du turbo ? Je veut dire pression a point de début déplacement de tige =Pression de soufflement turbo?
Can this cause a p0400 (p0400-5 exhaust gas recirculation flow insufficient detected) on a Vectra b 2000 x20dtl ? Can't find any vacuum leaks, egr replaced. Intake cleaned.
Hi.!... this is very nice video, what do you think about a Eurovan diesel 2007 the turbo was changed (just the "cartridge") but now it wont go up of 3000rmps?
Hey I have P0299 boost pressure regulation control range not reached. Actuator seems to move ok. Is this something that could be causing my problem? Thanks
This is an interesting video very informative. I have a question and I really can't decide what my car problem is. I have a 2002 Kia Sedona 2.9L TCI Diesel Engine and one time after a stop for an intersection, the vehicle does not respond anymore to my gas pedal. After several on and off the HOLD light suddenly flashes. Is this consider a lymph mode also? And I notice that the air coming in to my turbo is not that strong anymore not like before that my hand sticks on the hoses whenever i cover it up but now it's too weak. Could this also be the problem? Thank you so much, I wish I could hear from you soon.
Hey, i'm 17 yrs old and i will get an VW Golf 4 TDI. I'm in the beginning of my study's of car mechanics, and the car that i get has something wrong with the turbo, but that's the only thing i know. What are the things i should check when i get my car?? thanks..
Hi. I have the exact turbo on my car after reconditioned id myself i have a problem with the acuator as the top bolt of the acuator have some small gap to the turbo arm so i had to apply vacuum to the acuator a bit for the top bolt reach the turbo arm . I have installed the turbo back to my vw passat b6 and drove for around 5 miles with no issues but now it go's to limp mode sometime and showing the fault code P2563 turbo charger boost control position sensor A circuit Range/ performances. And making a bit of noise once accelerate.i tested my acuator and hold vacuum very weel but i know i installed the acuator wrong. I woud appreciated if you make a video how to fit the acuator . Any help appreciated. Thanks for your video
Thanks for the explanation. I keep getting overboost then limp mode. Can this be due to not enough vacuum/faulty vacuum pump? I have a Garret Turbo on a BKD VW Golf Mk5. How can I check I have the correct vacuum to operate the turbo?
I have a 2011 1.6TDI polo 6R and i have just has the exhaust wheel break off the shaft and jammed itself well in the housing. Funny thing is the compressor wheel and shaft turn free by hand and there is no oil leaking either. Do you know where i can get a replacement turbo?
Hello, I've got some issues with my car and litellary tried everything to fix it but nothing worked. PLEASEE help me! I own a Audi A3 8p 2.0TDI, 2006 year, (103kw/140hp) BMM engine code, DSG 6 speed. Recetnly my mech did a complete engine rebuild (replaced all gaskets, moving parts, Bosch injectors, timing belts... everything!) and everything was cleaned but I've got an issue while accelerating. About 1900-2400rpm with a half pressed gas pedal the car starts to jump (like stoping for 1sec and then going and so on for 3-4 times). When driving normal everything works fine, also when driving on the highway with the foot on the floor car drives fine. It only makes this on 'half pressed' gas pedal or climbing on a hill. There was an error code with EGR ventil but it's replaced with a new one and after that the 'jumping' is a litlle less but still there. There are no error codes, everything seems fine on the VCDS, all parameters are normal. What could make this? What is making the car to 'jump' (or like loosing boost for 1sec) even if the engine was completley rebuild and clean like the they he came out from the factory (and without any error codes)??? I'm soo sad and desperate :(((
Did you solve problem, i have bmm engine and sometimes when i press half throttle i hear like hesitation like acutator working few times fast then continue no error on vcds..
Hello. Just got my vnt cleaned on my b6 passat bkp engine with dsg because of overboosting as vnt was stuck. How can i prevent this from happening again ? I usually drive around town. Do i need to redline it often to work the vnt vanes ? Or just regular driving is enough ?
hi your channel has a ot of valuable content. i appreciate your effort. im thinking about buying a 2012 passat with 2.0tdi cr 6 speed manual. is it good to buy after 7 years? it has done only 100k kms. thanks in advance
Yousay in limp mode the vanes are open and boost is reduced. I thought if they were open it would create maximum boost, but as I've never stripped a VNT, I'm not sure if I've understood the mechanics of the system. I'm going to have to get hold of one and have a play, but in the meantime, can you put me right please. Good video though.
Nice video! Loved how well spoken you are. I hate watching someone explain something and every other word is uhm….uhm….uhm…. thanks for the great video.
How you set it to be like fully open at certain RPM. Where it get the information from? It got something like controller or so? Also how do those vanes limit the speed of the turbo.. You said that when they are fully open the exhaust gasses are slown.. Is there a chance to not be slown enough ?
Hi I'm having a similar limp mode problem, except it works some times when I start it and other times not. Of the problems you explained which could be the most likely?
so that's the problem on my passat from around 1800 to 2200 rpm it's limps and throws a lot of black smoke out I changed all the sensors but the problem is still there .....
Very helpful thank you. Is it possible to clock/rotate the compressor housing on a Garrett gt2052v that has vnt? Or can it not be done because of the actuator and vnt system? Thank you!
Thanks for the reply did you do this your self or was it a garage. Currently my actuator screw had halve a thread left before falling off. Unable to find a detailed drawing to tell me where it needs to go
@@declandermott5300 hi, yeah I did it myself took it off the car and disassembled, cleaned and put back together with a new vnt ring as it was also starting to wear, not the easiest job as it was quite tight to get out from the back of the engine, had to drop it out underneath the car. Sorry I’m not sure about the actuator adjustment I didn’t need to touch that.
i think this is whats wrong with my '06 jetta tdi. it doesnt shift up from first gear alot of times. if i shift up manually it works but im guessing automatically it wont shift due to the turbo not generating boost so the cars doesnt know what to do. but once im moving the car is fine and shifts fine
My vw tdi is having boost problems in first and second gear I'm getting decent boost but very loud noise when I shift and third and up the boost is in and out with constant throttle it will build power and feels like losses all boost and then comes back in and right back out
