Volt-modding the CH341a Mini Programmer - LFC 

very nice. thanks.

Do you have images of how this modification would look like with the capacitors? I want to modify my ch341a but I have no idea how the modification would look like.

@@mauricioaguaidahernandez4715 Honestly, I described the modification in detail in my initial comment ("I added a 1µF and another 100nF capacitor right between the 3.3V output and ground (pins 1 and 2 of the regulator"). If you cannot interpret this information, you should maybe not try this mod. I could take a picture, but how would I share it?

@@NebukadV Mediafire, i think with an image i can understand would look. Or you can make a video in your channel about your mod with the pinouts. I am understanding that you had added a 1µF and a 100nF capacitor just between the 3.3V output and ground (pins 1 and 2 of the regulator) i.e. 2 capacitors in series of 1uf and 100nF between pin 1 (thats is ADJ pin) and 2 ( V out) of the 1777 regulator. It should be like this video? -> m.ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ty_0VsCOKjU.html ?

True you wouldnt even notice you finished the whole video. He explains.everything pretty well that you would have to google.

lmao 🤣 that's graham

also fake news, giving you a stupid ideas

All good! Done exactly as you said in this video and I'm now getting 3.3V on the data lines! Just need to work out how to use the 1.8V adapter I have now...

I had a quick look and I think I see the method you're talking about. The 5v rail going to the IC is on a trace on the bottom of the board, several people had mentioned that cutting this trace might be a better method. The chap whose video guide I followed didn't want to do this because he wasn't sure where else it goes - but the only other place it goes is to the 5v jumper pin. So yea, cutting it would then enable you to bridge the 5 and 3.3v headers to avoid soldering. Part of me doesn't like cutting traces, but these things are so cheap that who cares about making the mod 'reversible' anyway.

when you put ic 3.3v the programmer detect automatically and adjust the voltage at 3.3v , i measured it during the process , i modified the programmer exactly what i saw on this video but i back to let it original and it works fine

Hi Antonio! On my CH341a, there are 2 x 5v headers. One is next to a header that says GND, the other is a header that says 3.3v. Which 5v header do I bridge to the 3.3v header? Sorry to ask, i'm just a bit of a noob. I think I know which trace to cut.

Hi Gamecat! I have posted it on my channel. Check it out!

​@@racejay cheers Antonio!

There's a cheap 1.8v adapter board that some of the CH341a Mini Programmer have started shipping with. I started to worry about adapting to 1.8v before realizing I already got the adapter in the kit. :)

@@V0S1N0 he isn't talking about the adapters to 1.8V

Really dumb design flaw. Lots of people scratching their heads over this one. If the CH341a chip couldn't run on 3.3v it would be a much harder issue to solve, but given that the chip is happy at 3.3v, it's a bit of an unknown.

Watching the chip's datasheet there's a 0,1v over the maximum ratings for the original use of 5v VCC and this is slightly bad unless the datasheet is not right, someone with scope can probe the effective DI pin if it exceeds 4,4v

This mod is unnecessary. videos that this mod is needed is spreading disinformation.

I like pulling small transformers out of old electronics (satellite and cable receiver boxes, dvd players, etc.) and then unwrap the enameled wire and use that for jumpers. You'd be surprised how much wire one transformer can hold. Most transformers probably hold enough wire to last a lifetime of jumping pads. Instead of pre-cutting the piece of jump wire, I use a longer piece than necessary, and then instead of pre-scratching the surface to remove the enamel, I just use the tip of the iron to scrape it, that and the heat usually gets rid of the enamel. And then just run the wire where you need, then solder the wire down where it meets the pad, then either clip off the spare wire or if it's thin enough just rock it back and forth until it breaks where it sticks out of the solder joint.

Could you please explain more in detail? With your method, do you still need to play with soldering wires?

@@user-cw3nb8rc9e you still have to solder one wire

@@max0r4axor What about supplying this programmer with 3.3V? It would not produce 5V then, but might work?

@@user-cw3nb8rc9e looking up the Datasheet for this if the chip is supplied with 3.3v you will have to supply 3.3v to the v3 pin number 9. To me it was easier to cut a trace use a standard jumper between 6 and 7 and solder a small wire to the 3.3v voltage regulator and pin 9

@@max0r4axor Good tip. Where is "6 and 7" Is it the GND and 5V at the end of the pin row with jumper?

What´s the use of the wire? Pin 9 is fed 3.3V on my CH341 anyway. And on my device there is no continuity to capacitor C4, but to C3.

@@michaelboth6844 Sounds like you have a different board layout/version ? If your version is already feeding 3.3V on pin 9 then you don't need to add any wire to the bypass capacitor or pin 9.

@@LordDarthSidiousss Unfortunately, there is no clear indication of board revision on the programmer itself. Interestingly, the IC itself reads CH341B, not A. The back reads "CH341A MinProgramment", like in French. And on the top side, near the bios chip connector it says "CH341A Pro". I bought it for cheap from a Chinese seller on German eBay. Very confusing.

@@michaelboth6844 I believe you can still mod this version that you have if you go from 3.3V regulator middle pin to C3 and from there also to the lifted pin of the CH341 with a wire ?

@@LordDarthSidiousss That´s what I did. Pin 28 was 5V after all, so I lifted it and soldered a wire to the regulator. I did the wire on Pin 9 as well, but I don´t know if that had any benefit. If you look at the schematic shown by Graham, Pin 9 is labeled "V3", so I guess having 3.3V there is expected?

3.3v is the requirement Boss

Yea the anchor pin and the middle pin of the reg are both outputs, you can use either.

@@Adamant_IT thank you

I've not used my EZP2019 in a long while, some people still rate them pretty well, but personally I prefer the CH341a because NeoProgrammer is really easy to get started in, and the CH341a drivers don't look like a virus ;) Be sure to check my recent video about the CH341a v1.6 though, as it doesn't need the volt mod, but is a bit more expensive.

@@Adamant_IT Thank you sir. Ive learned so much about your videos thank you for sharing your knowledge. I like it when your troubleshooting those dead boards 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂

I don't, but I should.

Хай! Прогеру в принцип по-болту, а МС-м памяти нет, они разн бывают. См. Оффициал. доку на каждую конкретную.

You can't mod something to run at a higher voltage. You'll need to put in a regulator somewhere to create a 5v rail for the logic stuff.

Right?? watching his videos makes me wanna buy more stuff (soldering iron, hot air station, the little chip programmers etc. Lol however I spend enough money on my other hobbies 😂😂 just need more time and money and I can do them all!!

If I can keep it up! I've got lots in the pipeline at the moment, but two videos a week largely pivots on having enough material.

Yes, there is such a way. But it is still necessary to raise 28 pins and feed it with 3.3 volts. After going back to 5 volts you can put a jumper on the two pins that are next to the zip panel. One of them has 3.3 volts, the other has 5 volts. So close them, then 5 volts will appear on pin 28. After removing the jumper, you will return to 3.3 volts of power. Everything is simple.

I always just grab a lighter and hit the end of the wire with the flame for a couple of seconds...you can see when it is gone.

1.8v adaptor is fine 👍 I've tested this and 1.8v adaptors will regulate the data lines down to 1.8 as well.

@@Adamant_IT Thank you so much

Yes, look for the version 1.6 or higher, with the green PCB, it has a voltage selector switch on it.

@@Adamant_IT Thanks for the reply. I am considering buying to one to mod the bios of my 2021 Razer Blade Advanced to unlock the overclocking menu on bios.

You need a tl866 or similar due to the higher voltages.

I never seem to have any luck burning off the enamel. I've tried it several times in several ways and it just doesn't strip. I've no doubt it works because I've seen people doing it, but yea, never works for me, so I end up scraping.

@@Adamant_IT The way that I do it is to create a healthy-sized blob of molten solder and run the end of the wire through it. I don't heat the wire, I heat the solder. This way the heat is going to get to all of the wire and the enamel should come off easily.

Correct. Lot of stupid things and people around the internet.

Yes, but not when it is connected only during the operation read/write/verify, the voltage on CLK pin drops to about 1V