Today we are dynotuning a customers car. Nice Volvo 242 with b230 8 valve turbo. This is a E85 car and got a Maxxecu mini Ecu. if you like this content, subscribe and you will get more :)
Yes We appreciate the English Version very much! I watched this entire thing and shared it in my playlist of "Stuff I Watch and Like". Ah yes the a/f gauge- - even with new o2 sensor, I have to calibrate it. And then recalibrate once a month. Instructions say- Unplug sensor, cycle key on, wait for err message on gauge. Turn key off. Then unscrew sensor, plug it in, cycle key on- o2 sensor is open free air-no pipe, wait wait wait , calibrate, and then 22.4 a/f. Turn key off. Unplug sensor, screw back in. Plug back in, turn key back on, good to go. If I miss the important key cycles I ruin the calibration memory. If I unplug the sensor with key on, I ruin the calibration and must start over by recalibration. Placement in exhaust stream is super important for life of sensor. You probably already know all of this. But it's worth repeating for others, I feel like. I would rather use The AEM in the future. It requires no calibration. I get what you mean. Curious to see what the exhaust manifold looks like, before that snail. I am honestly looking forward to this engine beating our power record on the channel! Motivates me to turn mine up to almost 2 bar! Great Work Busy Man!
Hi, I watch all your videos. This often helps me with my B200FT. It's very interesting and educational. Thank you for letting us be a part of it and we would love to see more of it. Thank you and have fun and success. greetings from Germany
great video and thank you for sharing your great knoledge, I am working on a similar project with a 16 valve head and Microsquirt, and this is giving me the gereat reference since I also look for a daily drive.
That's a very cool Volvo, really like the original colour, I'm on the other side of the world but have a heavily modified 242 myself, 4.4ltr supercharged Lexus engine swap in mine, it's very powerful but also nice & quite, true sleeper spec, Rj in Oz
i just bought an 80 242 that looks just like this one. i have a b230 with a 55mm turbo, and have no idea how to tune it. these videos are really helpful thank you!
The drop in boost that happened after the ignition advance was increased, is most likely due to exhaust temperature going down, thus less energy for the turbine at the same WG setting.
135hp NA is like a optimised stock B230FB (VX3 cam, or maybe A-cam or K-cam) I have seen a B230 (1mm shaved 531head) with 147hp on RON98. Flat top pistons and H-cam, underdrive crank pulley. That was a fresh engine for a VOC rally car.
@@MV-ri7zu not really. Going 16v means tearing into the bottom end to replace pistons and replacing both manifolds. The 8V will make more power than the transmission can hold with bolt ons. Also, if you race replacing a cylinder head is going to bump you way up in class.
Greatly appreciate the English language versions of your videos. I'd be happy with accurate English subtitles on the Swedish language versions rather than a total re-dub. If you were building a B230 engine with the 8valve head what sort of cam duration would you want to use to make power around 6500 - 6800rpm? Is there a really big difference in flow between a moderately ported 530 head with slightly oversized valves and the stock 531 head?
I really appreciate the English language because that’s all I know 😂 but have watched many videos of yours and others here in the USA not a lot of support other than forms online but I love watching the videos, And question if you or anyone see this about b234f 16v, is the bottom end good for boost or should I find a squirter block?
Väldigt intressant att se hur du jobbar med motorerna i dynon. Att du pratar engelska gör ingen större skillnad gör mig utöver att vi går miste om din trevliga dialekt. 😘
Cool, thanks for the English version. That volvo looks alot like Bamse's volvo 😅 for na calculations u used 2.6 earlier in the video and later 2.85, why is that?