Volvo 4T65-E Rebuild 

Glad to be of help. I also have a video on the non Volvo unit. Thanks for watching.ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-p-tEOJu2oEs.html

Thanks for watching. Your unit will be slightly different. The only thing that will be different assembly wise than in the video will be the 4th clutches and steels.

Also forgot to mention Sonnax has a new servo pin out that is supposed to help stop that band from breaking. Have started using it also. www.sonnax.com/parts/4513-extended-length-forward-band-servo-pin-kit

@@CurmudgeonTransmission thanks for the heads up! I will take a look at that. I also found the second wavy plate was broke. Fortunately I the chunk that broke off was laying right there with it. I have watched the other video as well you have. I put the other steel plates into the clutch pack as you advised and I'm looking forward to getting her back together. I will report back when it's finished with results. You have the best how to videos on the nets! Thanks again!

@@ohioplayer-bl9em Thanks for watching, hope all goes well for you.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission i just got everything back together and installed into the car. I installed the extra steel into the transmission and the revised "longer" part you told me to get. i have never done anything to a transmission except fluid and filter change so i was SO nervous. This old girl shifts so smooth you dont even feel it now. everything works better than i remember when i bought her new 255,000 miles ago. i honestly cant thank you enough for your tips and knowledge. i had no way of paying the thousands to get it fixed or no way of buying a different car. This stupid covid stuff has been hard on my family economically. Thanks again for your help.

Sorry about the long delay in response, this just showed up in my spam. Good luck!

Any time

Thanks for watching.

Thanks for watching. Merry Christmas.

Thanks for the tip.

Thanks

Thanks for watching. The first washer is put on at the 27-minute mark, second one at the 42-minute mark.

Only one true God and it ain't me, but appreciate the sentiment. You are probably right, very common. Hope the video helps you. Thanks for watching!

Try a reverse uphill from a standstill too. if it does the same thing in reverse as it did in forward it might be something else wrong and not the band.

The SS models already have HD parts in them. Now there may be things that can be done to the converter. My advice would be to call and talk to Precision of New Hampton. Link is in the description.

Thanks for watching!

I would double check your assembling of the detent. If you are checking it with the wheels off the ground you will need to turn both wheels at the same time or it will not lock.

Thanks. Yes they are. Probably would work. Would doa better job on the inside. Just make sure it is not interfering with the pan sitting flat.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission Will do , thank you

I don't remember if I did on this one. I generally do. The 2 primary ones that need replacing are the one in the input drum and the one in the diff. housing.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thank you! For a 2002 Volvo S80, when installing a Superior K4T65E shift kit, would you replace the 1-2 Accumulator valve spring with the spring supplied in the kit labeled for Heavy Duty / Taxi or just leave the stock spring?

@@sdk188 I only put it in the SS model Chevy's. I leave it stock in everything else.

Not heard a noise like that. Usually it is a rattle noise, comes from the speed sensor rotor.

​@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thank you very much for quickly answering my question. This evening, I unplugged the haldex pump to disable power to the rear, and spun the front wheels with front end jacked. No noise until about 15 mph, then a loud rattle trap instead of the scraping I had been hearing. How big a job is the repair you mention?

@@qed9600 Fair amount. Removal of the transmission and disassembly down to the sprockets. It sits on top of the drive sprocket.

​@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thank you again, Tom. Your advice points me in the right troubleshooting direction.

Hope it helps.

Sure. You will probably have to upload them to your channel and I watch them there, trying to link here does not seem to work. Just let me know when you get them uploaded.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission after trying to link videos, I came to the conclusion, that if there's doubt in my mind just replace the accumulator pistons and pins and the Channel plate sleeve. So to rephrase my question, where do you recommend I get all three accumulators, pins and the sleeve?

@@ericullom8169 Yeah I have had several people try to link videos and it has not worked, that is why I suggested to upload to your channel. It is better to just replace them especially the 3-4 as you have to tear the unit down to get to it. Since the sleeve is worn you need to replace the bushing in the stator also as that is what supports it. WIT or Transtar and depending on where you are, larger cities, there may be other local suppliers.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission So Tom finally got the unit reassembled after waiting for parts and trying to check the final drive endplay. I see in your video that the Volvo final drive and the one I have has no edge to get a screwdriver under through the sensor hole. How do you pry up on the carrier ?

@@ericullom8169 You can push against the output shaft and also can go through the hole for the passenger axle and push against the pinion pin.

The solid one yes, the scarf cut no. You can use either. I prefer the solid one.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission thank you so much.

A slight amount ok. Did you use the resizer or did you let the rings size to the support?

@@CurmudgeonTransmission resize to the support.

Thank you for watching.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission no problem it was one of the best videos I have seen in a while. I can tell that you have done a few of those. What is the best way to get all of your parts so clean before the rebuild?

@@oregontreesgaming I have a parts washer that is basically like a giant dishwasher that gets hot and then I have a Safety Clean machine that is a tank that has basically mineral spirits with a pump and brush setup that I clean with. You can clean parts with mineral spirits and if you have a pressure washer you can wash your case with that.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission thank you. I might have a few more questions throughout. Keep up the great work and thanks for sharing.

Thanks for watching.

Volvo calls for JWS3309, GM uses Dexron-VI. Think you could just use that. Volvo does not list capacity for drain and fill, GM says 7.4qt. for 2WD. No listing for AWD. No additive that will prevent problems.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission thank you.

Ask all the questions you want. I'm not sure, nothing is coming to mind. Give me year, make and model. If possible, take a picture of it and post it to my Instagram CurmudgeonTransmission or on your channel and I will look at it. It won't let you post a picture here.

It may be the starter, but I need a visual.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission I tried to do the Instagram, but haven't really used it, so not sure if it went through.. fingers crossed, and thanks so much for having a look! christineporter79

Transjel Gold. www.filtranllc.com/aftermarket/transjel/

Thanks. The EPC solenoids are early and late. Up to 2002 is the large silver solenoid, in 2003 they went to the small Bosch solenoid. The input speed sensors are not interchangeable. The valve body and separator plate are different and not interchangeable. The differences in the Volvo rebuild kit include the passenger axle seal, filler tube seal, valve body gaskets and 4th clutches. I have a video on the chevy version also: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jaGE0CXLoIE.html

Does anyone know if the Delco selenoid's fit 2004 volvo xc90 4T65e or I need the brand volvo selenoids.

Sounds like you are fixing to create a problem. Why not just buy the engine and transmission together with the computer that matches it and you know it will work together?

You need to match the numbers that are on the tag. It will have a number followed by 2 large letters and then below that a small letter. Would be something like 8ADw. Match that number and you should be fine. Deviate and you run the risk of ratio codes or not working at all.

Slausons, WIT, Transtar or Wade's. All the links are in the description. Couple of them are only in my newer videos. Have not gotten around to updating them all.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thank you Sir I will relay the information

Similar in some ways, but totally different all together if that makes sense. I have a video on that transmission if you need it.ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-xlmsqZGVlaM.html,ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-9m3j062plJQ.html. Thanks for watching.

I don't give out my location for several reasons. If you need a shop, go to the ATRA website. Link is in the description. Go to the shop finder tab and the can suggest a shop for you. Thanks for watching.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thank you for the info. I figured you being able to do it was a long shot but had to ask because you are certainly very clear on what you are doing and how to do it.

Pull a cooler line off, if it is not pumping any fluid you have a pump problem. If it is something else broke, it could be a lot of things.

Can u replace a transmission pump

@@toshagailley1634 Yes

Can u make a video on how to replace the pump by any chance bc that's what I need to replace on my 05 Impala bc mine quit pulling while I was turning into work one day and I checked the fluid and it stayed the same

@@toshagailley1634 It might be a while before I get another one in here. Just need to pull the side cover off and if you watch the video you can see which bolts hold the pump, just remove those and put the new pump in reverse order. Pumps are pretty rare to go out on these though. Might be the pump shaft, more common. Are you sure you did not break an axle?

I am not trying to be rude but I have been asked a lot about that and I don't divulge that info. I do not own the company and I don't have any say in how things are handled. I don't want people getting mad at me for however they may be treated by someone else. I am not doing this to gain business. I started doing this to pass on what knowledge I have gained as I have no one to pass it to. My son never had any interest. I thought it a waste to not pass it on.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission thanks, I fully appreciate that. well sińce my Volvo 4t65ev-gt seems to slip from full stop and only during start what would you advise on how to start diagnosing it? It starts to shudder and once I decrease throttle it goes fine, sometimes it Has hard shifts.

The forward band is probably breaking and will finish breaking soon. The harsh shifts are probably because it has an 1811 code and has raised line pressure. It is time for a rebuild it sounds like.

@@CurmudgeonTransmission thank you very much. Sounds like I will have to dig into it. I havent seen any tcm errors yet, as its not constant, usually when the tranny is hot, but I suspect clutches are also worn out since oil that was changed aroun 20-30 000km starts to smell like burned. One more thing about setting the clearances, is there any video where you show that maybe?

Just what I show in the video. Shave the clutch lining off of 1 of the single sided outside teeth clutches for third. Put it on top of the cushion plate and then stack the clutches like you normally would. Add 1 extra steel for the 2nd drum, just pick somewhere and instead of alternating clutches and steels add 2 steels together. Your clearance will come out just fine. Have never had it not do so. As long as you can turn the clutches after assembling the drum you will be fine. Like I said I have never had it not do so. Just do the things that I show and use the products I show in there and you will have a good unit. It will take care of all the problem areas you will run into.

Thanks for watching.

Hello, im with a big big doubt! Have you put two consecutives steel plates on the 2nd clutch housing? The atsg manual differs but im following your tutorial, thanks in advance

Circa min 25 btw

@@jorgeroa1931 Yes. Add an extra steel in the 2nd and 3rd clutch stack. Helps prevent P1811 code.

Even if I had no dtc about that?? If I put this extra steel I have no clearance left between the clutch pack and the snap ring. Thanks again for your knowledge