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I've just replaced the battery inside my 2006 XC70 alarm unit and this video was helpful - thanks SiRobb. A few quick points that might ease things for others: 1. Replacement battery pack: I searched on-line and found Varta 6/V250H (7.2V 250mA) mentioned as a direct replacement for my car. That information was correct and I bought that pack, which was the same manufacture and, more important, same size as the one removed. I used a modelling knife to remove the terminal connectors for the wiring from the original battery and then cleaned them up before soldering to the new battery. 2. To split open the original casing I decided not to use a Dremel (even with a plastic cutting disc) or a Stanley knife. Instead I used a modelling knife. First, I sanded down the seam between black and grey parts of the casing. Then, I carefully made a few runs around the seam line with a new blade in my knife to give a cut line. Once I had the groove to follow, I cut through the joint in short lengths. There are a couple of locating lugs on the inside of the long sides, which required a slightly deeper cut. This gradual approach provided a clean joint for reassembly. To reassemble I put a few dabs of Superglue around the joint before putting the two halves back together. Although the Superglue wouldn't be any good to reseal the whole joint, it does hold the casing together so that 2cm strips of tape (I used Gorilla tape) can be run around the outside of the seam. 3. The original battery holder had to be 'opened' to get the battery out. I did this by drilling through the grey plastic rivets at one end with a 3mm drill - I drilled right through the casing - and then breaking the joint between the casing and holder. The top strap of the holder is flexible and I could ease the battery out quite easily. After the new battery was installed, I used small round-head self-tappers with a bit of Araldite on the threads to resecure the holder strap to the casing. (The self-tapers were screwed through from the outside of the casing and into the holes drilled in the holder strap).
Just wanted to say many thanks for this. This fix worked great. As you said did struggle with the security bolt but as you said I stuck with it and it did finally loosen up. Used a hacksaw to separate the alarm and with careful use that worked perfectly and gave a neat job. Thanks again. Mike
well done i have just bought a 07 v70 and this has happened after 1 month so this video is brilliant for the novice as are your others i have viewed many thanks for all your time and effort
I've read about this procedure, but this is the first video I've found that details the complete repair. You did a great job explaining each step of the process, including the pitfalls. I'm fortunate that I have all of the tools on hand (including a Dremel and a hot glue gun.) Now I just have to catch a nice day and get dirty. Thanks for taking the time to put this together.
Dzięki za poświęcony czas, dobra robota. Dzięki tobie naprawiłem szyber dach. Syrena alarmu do wyrzucenia, akumulatorek eksplodował, płytka zalana kwasem, złom. Ale szyber działa , big thanks for you.
Just another comment to say thank you. I've just completed this job after watching your video (although I replaced the alarm with a new one, rather than trying to repair the old). Alarm message now gone, sunroof working again, no need for any other magic to make this work. That security bolt is the only hard bit, but a did get it off by dremmeling a slot and using a screwdriver. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you Simon I have just done mine and your video was very helpful .My board luckily was ok as the battery had only recently started to leak. Old battery was putting out 1.6volts after 21 years quite suprising .
My board was pristine when I stripped it. Thought great I'm on to a winner. Fit new battery, took the time to melt the plastic back together so it was almost as new. Put it back together and hey presto exactly the same as before I touched it. It's not that hard to remove but the next time I'm just going to buy a new one. I can't be doing with the messing about. Just my luck.
Great info. Helps to know what the unit is and where it is. Only problem I had is that I couldn't find "7.2v door bell battery" . But after cursing at the computer for 40min. I found it. I found it under "7.2v 320mA car alarm battery" and the only search result i got "Volvo alarm battery 7.2v 330mA". So Now when that comes in I'll see how bad is my circuit board after 21 years of it's life
Opened it up just to find out that the battery leaked. The board basically started to melt but the connections seemed intact so I decided to clean the board thoroughly with loads of contact cleaner, I've put a £5 RC car battery in and voila! To my surprise it's been absolutely fine for more than 3 weeks already. Well chuffed with that but I keep in mind that it might die in the future due to that leak. But happy for now :)
Excellent video. Everything described in good detail for numpties like me. I wouldn't try to do this job at ground level, though - not with my back. I'll show the video to my mechanic and pay him the 2/6d labour to do it. How much to fit a car-lift in my garage?
Car running fine I wasnt sure if the siren unit imobillised the vehicle. Quite a lot of electronic components just to make a noise! On further inspection ( with specs on) the board is us so it will be a trip to the breakers. Thanks again for your help
No problem. The car is immobilised using a chip built into the ignition key and read by an antenna in the ignition barrel so unaffected by the siren module.
***** one more thing SHEAR SCREW volvo art# 986937 found on www.volvopartswebstore.com/products/Shear-screw/1195542/986937.html price $ 2.69 the shipping fee is to expensive "$48 to sweden
thank you for this video. a lot of Volvo owners are happy today, because maybe most alarms will be working again, and also getting rid of that stupid pesty alarm system service light required to shut off. I own two Volvos, so I have to do this on both of these
Yep that's the way to fix it . . just a note on attaching plastic case back together I and others use HOT GLUE GUN as this stops water ingress but good video
Cheers Gary. Yes I've heard about the glue gun before and there's two very good reasons why I didn't do the same. The first is I wanted to keep it low tech for people without many tools and secondly I don't have one, lol. To be honest, my gap was pretty large and I'm not sure the glue would have held on it's own without tape. I wish I'd taken longer to find a 3x2.4v pack as it would fit better and the case would be more snug but I guess it's not a beauty contest. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
Always great informative videos, thank you. My alarm siren has been opened, carefully but getting the six pack varta batteries for the module has been a problem...any advice would be most helpful. Regards,
Out of curiosity, did you happen to know what type of security bolt that was, or the correct size of the rivets? I don't mind drilling a flat head slot into the security bolt, but I am a little worried I may damage it in the process. Also saving me a trip looking for rivets would be good, although I will most likely replace those with screws to be honest.
If you do make a mess of cutting Parts like this open you can quite easily repair them I think using a 3d printer pen and gentle use of a low temp soldering iron can restore the casing appearance. I think most are made of ABS aren't they?.
A nickel metal hydride battery, abbreviated NiMH or Ni-MH, is a type of rechargeable battery. The chemical reaction at the positive electrode is similar to that of the nickel-cadmium cell (NiCd), with both using nickel oxide hydroxide (NiOOH). see at 8.01 on the side of the battery.
Great video & easy to follow. I bought a standard alarm battery on fleabay for £12 (bargain) first before stripping out old unit. Great idea, but when I cut the old module open it was shot - the acid had rotted the connection pins. Am now trying to figure out if I can simply remove it altogether. It's a 2003 xc70, so not worth nicking.
Thanks for your comment. You can either leave it out completely or put it back and pull the alarm fuse to avoid the possibility of a parasitic drain. Both methods will result in a dash warning at startup and of course there may be insurance implications as your factory security is not working as designed so not something I can recommend.
@@sirobb fully acknowledged. Checked multiple forums, to be advised that leaving the unit out was not recommended (no explanation why, but assumed to relate to Insurance liability). I washed the c**p off the module with a fine brush & contact cleaner but it looks beyond saving; I removed the rotted battery & re-installed the unit. No knock-on problems noted other than the nuisance message remains. I'll put up with it until an opportunity for a working used unit turns up. It's a sad reflection on volvo that the replacements cost so much since it's obviously an inherent design flaw, but I guess that's life. Thanks for the comments & keep up the good work
I haven't had to do this surgery yet (and I refer to it as surgery early in this discussion for a reason) and continue to be astounded at poor packaging practices by many manufacturers. In your opinion, is there the option of simply drilling a hole and pull out the wires using a crochet hood (like they did to my vas deferens - and yes it hurt) to interrupt the wires to attach an external battery pack? It would entail less disassembly and easier to replace the battery in the next 10 years.
Great video...Thank you. My box holding the siren was under my windscreen wipers on my c30 as a matter of interest. Lastly, does your warning light go off automatically once you have replaced everything or do you have to reset the warning message if that makes sense. Many thanks
Is there always an error-message on the display when the siren-battery must be replaced ? I have problems with false alarms. I have a S80 T6, from 1999.
I always wanted to get rid of the alarm warning but now I know how much work it is I will accept it irritating me. I originally am from Congleton and my recorded voice sounds very much like yours
Thank for posting this very informative video, well done! My alarm service warning has been on for many years on my 2003 S80. Do you have any idea whether or not it will affect the sunroof or remote key fobs ultimately? Thanks again!
Hi like the video but can you help me with my car . The car I have is the older model year 2000 do you know if the same alarm siren is on this model and is it fitted in the same place ? Any information about this I would be very grateful for . Thank you very much. Alan 😎
very good vid SiRobb. May sound like a stupid quiestion but what triggered you knowing you had a bad alarm? Other day my horn went off for no reason when inside the house and blew for 5 minutes till seemingly the fuse blew ( before i could find the book telling me which fuse to pull to stop it ) I have no horn now and it blew another fuse when i put another in. Is the horn unit one in the same as the security alarm or are they 2 seperate units? If one in the same does horn going off on its own consistent with haveing a bad unit ( horn or siren or one-in-the same). Thanks for another good vid
Hi on My 2002 Volvo v70 my Alarm siren circuit board was Black and completely covered in battery acid I tried wiring 6 AA Battery,s to the Alarm to see if it would work and it didn't work so i got a Used Alarm siren that worked and I recently fitted after having Alarm system service required for 8 Years I finally found a siren and the Used alarm siren works and there is no Alarm system service required on the dash and when I installed the alarm I did a configuration of the siren unit on Vida for the siren to work properly Take care
Hi great video have the alarm off my 2004 XC90 unfortunately circuit board has some acid damage! do you know if the car still runs without the siren I have tried the central locking etc all still working the only thing not working is the door warning the red alarm flashing light is also still working. Thanks Brian
Excellent video. I'm gonna tackle this project soon. Quick question though: Why does the alarm sound when you open the door with the key? Never knew it did that. Doesn't seem to make sense? Without the key I get it, but why does the car freak out when it is unlocked with the proper key?
The system needs a signal from a coded remote to activate the alarm and deadlocking so when you unlock using the blade, you could theoretically be anyone who has simply had a key blade only cut for the car so the alarm sounds as a precaution.....it's thinking, "I was set by a remote, so why am I being opened by just a key?" There's no way to scan the key in the door but there's a security antenna around the ignition barrel so when you put the key in the ignition, the system recognises the immobiliser chip and knows a bona fide key is being used and the alarm is silenced. Hope that explains things for you and thank you for the positive comment.
Hello, I have seen your videos and I have the following question. on my C70 2012 Volvo, it's got those RFID-enabled door handles which means if the original key is near the door handle, then, either pressing the button, or pulling the handle, should automatically unlock the doors in case they are locked. Also, if you intend to lock the doors, pressing the black door handle button with the KEY nearby should also allow the doors to react and lock. After getting a paint job, I noticed that the right-door stopped reacting to this function. Only the trunk and the driver's door react correctly. Being from the technology side, I feel there is some RFID sensor that is either malfunctioning or missing for it NOT to sense that the KEY is within 30 cm outside the lock for it not to react. Pressing the lock/unlock on the remote control makes all doors react correctly. Do you have an idea how I can solve this problem?
Hi. I did this job on my XC90. The alarm service light went off. But now if I lock and unlock the doors then turn the key it comes back on. But if I then take the key out and back in again it stays off untill I lock it again. Super confused
Hi SiRobb. Thanks for the video. I was wondering what would happen if you had cleaned your old board. Do you think that would solved the problem? (besides replacing the batteries). Thanks!
I recently acquired a 2004 xc70 ..like the car - but this "alarm service warning" has been on and my mechanic told me to ignore it. However, 2-3 times in the past 2 months i've had issues with starting it up and needed a jump. I think the main battery is fine - could this issue be draining the main battery? If so, would it help to get a brand new strong battery ? or can I just take out the fuse so it doesn't drain. I'm nor concerned with the alarm system - the vehicle is 18 years old... thanks.
My idea is to find a cell phone charger feed it from the car battery then I think I it will be a long time solution but I will do some experiment first the cell phone charger is usually low voltage I think it could work.
Cell phone chargers operate at 5v but the idea of having a battery in the alarm siren module is to ensure that the alarm will sound even if a thief has tampered with the cars wiring or battery. Your 'fix' would leave the car open to increased chance of theft and I doubt a cell phone charger would last very long being permanently connected and exposed to outside temperatures.
Any immobilizer dash message tips? Hit a curb with R front tire, broke control arm and axle and bent subframe. Dash airbag went off (no passenger in seat) and driver seatbelt tensioner fired. Replaced both front impact sensors, driver seat belt tensioner, dash airbag. Used an Autophix ES610 scan tool to reset faults. Car still won't start, immobilizer and security system service require dash messages. SRS Control module might need reprogrammed even though the scanner doesn't have any SRS faults. I thought I had a problem before with starting and some single wire on starter having corrosion? 2004 Volvo XC70 wagon. in PA , USA.
Autophix ES610 did reset SRS codes, my starter spade terminal wire fell off, hence no crank. Got it started this morning for the first time since the accident !! YAY
@@sirobb UPDATE: wired was popped off on the starter, the wire that gets corroded often on Volvos. And oddly after removing the siren to work on it, my sunroof now works !??!?
I dont know if it was an error, but in my v70 it said that, and i locked the car then opened it with the key, the alarm went off, i entered back in and the warning went...
OK, how does this alternative sound? Instead of replacing the original battery and then entombing it like the old one, just don't install one. Make the battery supply easily replaceable, as this will happen again and again. Solder some long leads to the correct battery terminals on the siren printed circuit board, mark the polarity, drill a hole in the siren's case, seal with RTV and lead the wires to a battery pack installed in the engine bay; five or six alkaline AA cells should do it. The cost should be about $15, depending on where you buy the parts.
I'm having the same message on my S80 '98 and a problem, where the car remote keys don't work at all(even after changing batteries). do you thing the problem would be in this module?
You may have 1 or 2 issues. A faulty siren module doesn't affect remote locking. The UEM or Upper Electronic Module controls remote locking and can also be responsible for alarm faults so a faulty UEM could be causing both your problems or you could have a combination of faulty UEM and a faulty siren.
You can plug it in and test it before securing everything and putting the wheel arch lining back in place but I don't know of a way to test it without at least removing the old one first.
@@sirobb Thanks SiRobb. What I meant was - can the siren unit be "bench" tested. I thought since it has its own battery (I put a new one) can it be tested? I tried jumping the 3 prongs every which way but no response. Not sure though if thats the way to do it.
is it possible to remove the alarm just by slackening off the 10mm nuts that hold the alarm unit into it's cage rather than hack away with a Dremmel at the security nut holding the cage the alarm sits in?
Hi, I have the same error on my volvo s40 2006 model. followed your video, removed the wheel, the lining..... but could not find the unit!!!! any other place I should look for this? thanks
I have a siren fault and also a drain on the car battery of 540mA when the car is not in use.. The normal drain should only be 40mA. Could the alarm siren fault cause this?
I wouldn't guess with a parasitic drain so test the alternator diode pack first ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dhf6IdBbE3Y.html Then I would check everything using this method ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ZCMQE2tgRSE.html
Great job in using existing parts and not buying new. A rechargeable battery would be great to avoid this problem....hey volvo are you listening? Stay green, recycle and sustain resources.
