Volvo Control Arm & Ball Joint Replacement - No Press Needed! (S60, S80, V70, XC70, XC90) 

Shop the parts used in this video: www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-control-arm-kit-front-s60-v70-s60cakit3l

For all the homegamers doing this in the driveway - make sure you raise both front wheels off the ground. If you just raise one side it is possible to wrestle the strut off the steering knuckle but very difficult to get it back on as the sway bar will be under a fair amount of tension making it all but impossible to align the knuckle and strut. Ask me how I know... :O

these vids are fantastic- my passenger side axle broke, the wheel folded perpendicular to the road @70MPH. I was very lucky. Currently in the process of replacing a hole bunch of stuff, control arm, struts, axle, tie rods, ball joints. Vehicle has over 345,000 miles on it- the engine is solid, tranny shifts nice and tight, no body rot so I'm going this route. Again- these vids are making it possible.

Very cool how the Technician explains Socket sizes for each part in the process.

I like how it says "No press needed", but then he uses a press tool to reinstall the ball joint lol

Great vid, Jay. I did this on my 2000 S80 (control arms only) a couple years ago. I got some solid Meyle arms from FCP Euro that are still riding strong today. Getting to the control arm bolts wasn't as easy, unfortunately - especially on the driver's side. I had to jack up the engine a little (roughly 2-3 inches) to get to the bolts, and I had to use cargo straps in order to get the arms back into the ball joint. But other than that, the procedure is roughly the same.

THANK YOU!!! You posted this just in time for me. I will say that I was able to do this without removing the hub (using jack straps to pull down the control arm once the bushings are secured). There is a danger of pulling out the inner cv joint this way, but it was reasonably easy to whack back into place.

Who works on a car in a polo, I look homeless when I work on my car.

On my 2003 S60 FWD with 5 speed Aisin automatic transmission, on driver's (left) side there is no way to place the ratchet on the two front bolts of the control arm, without jacking the engine/transmission to clear the bolts heads. Even then is tight. I had to lift the transmission about 1 inch (put a wood on the jack to protect the casing) to be able to place a 3/8" drive ratchet on the two front bolts of the control arm. I have videos on my channel. But you need a solid quality ratchet, because with 3/8in drive it's a small ratchet and the bolts can be tight - I wish I could use a 1/2 drive ratchet but the sockets don't have enough space. Small tip, before removing, clean well the exposed bolt threads that come out from the control arm, use penetrating oil and brush the threads. Also, do not reuse a bolt if it's rusted! I put a rusted bolt back, and one year later when I removed it the bolt had half thickness remaining, eaten by rust. These bolts are coated with black protective layer, careful not to scratch this layer when inserting the bolt back through the subframe. Usually, you don't need to fully remove the bolts, but try moving them out a little to check if the protective coat is gone and if there's rust. These bolts also have different length to them, mark each bolt where it goes - you may also have the length is also different between the left and the right control arms as well.

Thank you for taking the time to make this video. It all went great for me by following the video. I did end up purchasing and using the ball joint insertion tool (expensive but quite frankly worth it. I spent a good two hours trying to press it in without the tool. Started over when it arrived in the mail and did it in 5 minutes!)

It's amazing how much room you have to get sockets onto the 2 bolts for the control arm. I had to use a curved wrench to get that bolt out. The engine was in the way

Final step- Perform wheel alignment.

4:19 - My steering bump stops were riveted on, not bolted, so I had to drill those out and get suitable weather-proof bolts and nuts to install the stops on the new control arm

Request more lights while you working thanks ... Good job,👌👌

I always seems to watch the video after I did the job, to see why it was difficult, I used a blunted chisel around the edge where the volvo tool would contact and used the bolts to carefully tap it in, it tried to go sideways, and it took several tries to get it going straight, once you have it going in straight tap away keeping it straight and keeping tension on the bolts. Tap tap tap tighten bolts, repeat. Not pretty, not easy, but the job is done, I'm used to doing stuff without the special tools, but I would buy that tool next time if there is a next time.

I thought it was supposed to be a "no press needed" job, or don't specialized press tool count?

I notice they did the easiest side. The right side has a huge engine in the way of the bolts.

1:08 - every well stocked shop needs a large pepsi machine... ;-)

2001-2006... 10mm for bump stop. If they're worn, you can swap them side to side to get more life. There *is* a faster way for control arm, but kind of need 2 people and puts undue strain one some parts.

6:30, that's a nice ball joint tool. 👍

excellent tutorial!

Hallo everybody from Germany 🇩🇪

Thx FCP! This is the only true correct video on how to change the control arm on all the cars you mention, I did the passanger side on our XC70 2005 D5 and did not remove the outer drive shaft or centre axel bolt, now I may have to take out the inner and outer drive shaft and even pull the axle out of the manual 6 speed gear box, I cant feel that any ball bearing balls came out into the rubber inner protection next angle bearing, would you know if it just ok to push the outer drive shaft back into place or is it a must for me to take out the entire drive shaft? Do you have any idea? Thx again from a Swede with three Volvos! You are simply the best out there! Regards Björn

I used the special ball joint remover/installer tool made by CTA... $125, cake.

Is there a list of torque specs for each bolt?

Nice to see your shoulder

“No press needed” pulls out specialty tool/installer.

Just did mine in the drive on a jack. Didn't take any of that stuff off at all. Rule Number 1. Never disturb the strut bolts unless you are changing it. The holes are elongated and once you undo them you WILL have to go and seek an alignment expert to set your camber angles or you will ruin your tyres and your car will not handle properly so would be considered. dangerous. All I did was undo the three Wishbone bolts, undo the bottom joints two 13mm bolts and tap it out in situ. Then undo the bottom bolt (if replacing it) and take it out. Slot in the new arm, start the bolts, swap the bump stop over and fit the lower joint. Lever down the arm and refit to lower joint. Tighten it all up and away you go. You need just the right sort of bar to lever the arm down or it can be a struggle.

instead of spending $150 on this ball joint tool they have you can usually get away with just tightening the bolts and the ball joint will press itself into the knuckle. this method worked for me easily on my 08 xc90

This video has a break in it at a critical point - "next we are going to compress..." precedes showing how you got the strut back in place. The video jumps to after it is engaged with the knuckle.

great vid, helpful as always. If i'm just replacing the control arm will i need to remove hub still or will i just be able to pull it out once all the bolts are off?

Jay must love his job at Volvo. The bolts on these cars are the easiest to remove in the whole automotive industry I'll go saying on my S60 I had to jack the engine 3/4" on both sides (no need to disconnect any engine mount) to clear the two control arm bolts - have these bolts replaced with new from Volvo, they are cheap (for once) and old bolts reused will get eaten by rust because of the contact with the subframe.

Is there a reason to take the entire knuckle off? 960s this can be done without removing the steering knuckle

You couldn't just use a brass hammer to tap the ball joint in?

another great vid. thanks

I just replaced both lower control arms on the front of my 2004 Volvo S60 and the brunt of the job was just getting the ball joint nut off. Unfortunately for me, both counter torque inserts in the bolt were completely warn away (so it was basically just a hole with no grip for the hex torques fitting). My way around it was to use a vise grip that that made contact with both sides of the knuckle of the control arm where the ball joint bolt went through. I had to clamp the vice grip enough so that it would hold tightly the parts of the ball joint that wanted to spin as I would loosen the bolt. As long as you use a 18mm wrench and not an impact driver to slowly loosen the nut, it works perfectly. Just thought I'd mention an alternative way to get the nut off rather than cutting it off.

Good instruction video

Thanks a lot!

Hello just saw the control arm ball joint replacement on a 2009 C70 T5 Volvo. Thank you. What should that cost at a mechanic shop?

I just use a large socket or a piece of pipe on the ball joint to whack it in.

How much should it cost to get two front ball joints replaced on a Volvo S60 2.0T P2? UK? Was thinking about £320??

Tricked, i thought this was how to install new bushes into the control arm.

JV SMOOVE ....... Like Buttah !!

Is this possible to do with hand tools and how long would it take an average person to replace both left and right control arms?

I thought I read somewhere that you only torque down the control arm fasteners for the bushings when the vehicle is on the floor with the suspension loaded, not with the car jacked or lifted up where the suspension is not bearing any load. Is that not accurate?

Is this a good opportunity to regrease the axle to steering knucle connection/splines? (I probably didn't use the right terms since im not that knowledge about suspension, yet) I've read about a greasing procedure for the AWD driveshaft, not the same part but probably a similar concept where the splines and joints need to be greased. (My AWD driveshaft lasted 210000 miles before breaking because the splines wore and broke off)

If was just replacing the control arm could I leave the hub attached to the strut and axle, and just compress the suspension enough to allow the lower control arm to clear the ball joint? Also why in all the videos I see does nobody replace the control arm bushings instead of a whole new control arm?

I've replaced my control arm on my 02 s60 and north ball joint is tearing into my rim any idea where to look to resolve this?

That is how to mess up camber and tracking. You cannot just undo the strut like that. It has a huge amount of movement too set the camber angle. They did not even tell viewers to go and pay $100's afterwards to get it all set up by an alignment company to make sure it is safe to drive.

on this vovo xc90 04 am having troble getting the new ball joint in and I have the sipdle is off …..I have seen other vidos here doing the same job w out this tool but I cant master the thing or is it me lol so am taking it to a friend of mine in the morning and see how he dose it lol

Is it possible to install the ball joint without the special tool?

wait a second.. I thought the control arm and suspension needs to be "loaded" before tightening the control arm bolts, otherwise you get premature wear.

I just watch an A1 video replacing both arm and ball joint he left all that stuff in place. Way less work. Plus didn't need to use a press.

Why is the video so dark? It's like they're working in shop where the lights are all broken.

No torque specs?

He's done that more than once, I'll bet ;)

Hi there, I want to replace all bolts on my control arms and, as you know, the right hand side on V70s and other P2 has interference from engine/trans, which need to be lifted an inch to slide bolt out. Question: can I get enough lift without undoing any engine mounts and not damage same??? Appreciate you advice, thanks

Thank You!! Totally helped me out.

I don't believe one of those steel balls popped out either or do you know how easy they come out?

Im about to change the front wheel hub (I just changed my control arms, ball joints, struts, inner and outer tie rods 5 mos ago on my 2008 Volvo XC90, AWD). During that time I also installed new bolts and nuts to include brake caliper bolts, strut bolts/nuts, and control arm bolts. When replacing the front wheel hub, is there a way to separate the ball joint from the control arm? Or do I have to loosen the strut bolts? Do I have to change all of the strut bolts/nuts again? How about the brake caliper bolts? I believe if I have to loosen the strut bolts and nuts, I would have to have an allignment as well. Thank you

I meant to write , next to the angle bearing below, Zwischenlager in German......

This will definitely not work on a xc60

I see you were able to just lift off the knuckle from the lower control arm after removing the bottom bolt. Ever have this stuck on and need to be pressed out? Both side of mine are stuck... completely stuck.

Buen día disculpe ustedes podrían orientarme donde encuentro el módulo de la alarma de mi volvo c30 año 2008 por su tiempo muchas gracias un saludo desde el otro lado del mundo

When I see the mechanic tightening all the screws with an air wrench, I feel nauseous! There are times when you have to do everything yourself. I will not mention that this bungler did not clean any mounting sockets or apply anti-seize grease (at least in places where aluminum meets steel).

jay can u do a video on a 2001 s60 t5 oil sump gasket video.please

Anyone having trouble with brightness install the Chrome Video Styler extension and blast the brightness up to 300%

"Next we're going to compress" @ 7:49 Just takes a couple of seconds in the vid, but really?? Done this Job myself. You better have a way of pulling that control arm down enough to line up those bolts. Anyway, these guys at FCP are otherwise A-OK.

no press needed just a specialist tool that probably costs £100+

Seems like it's gonna be a 10 minute job. Lucky me!

Thx for the video but I have a question. With the ball joint, could you just have tightened the ball joint with the screws by themselves instead of having to use the ball joint tool?

Good lord. Impact are wonderful, and have many good uses, but hammering home bolts that might KILL YOU if they fail isn't one of the uses any good mechanic would risk. Please at least insert a disclaimer along the lines of that you really did use a torque wrench, but it took too long to film. Please. 32yrs a Volvo tech.

I sheared off the knuckle bolt :-/ FML everything was so worn nothing came out easy

Does this apply to S60 R as well?

The old control arm looked okay to me. Why was it replaced?

The link to the "Shop the Products used" is not functioning. Where do you get the "press tool" for the ball joint?

Where is BEN?! I need some work done on my 97 850 GLT....

how in the hell does everyones control arms on they volvos come off the ball joint like butter but mines feels like ite fricken welded to the control arm just spent 6 hours on it and its still stuck anyone got some advice for me? also i dont have new ball joints so i dont wanna use a spreader and destroy the bushing in the ball joint. im pretty stuck and the car is my daily please if anyone sees this help me

Need these replaced on my Volvo V50 2008. Bought the parts now I need to find a decent garage that will do it. I've already spent nearly £3k trying to sort out the suspension -.- Eventually found out that the issue was these! >< Car's front wheels don't feel like they're fixed on correctly - erratic swerving at higher speeds and clunks over the slightest bump, at any speed. Question is - How long would each arm take to replace? I've had enough now and just want a fair job done. If anyone could recommend someone that can do these - Lancashire/Cumbria area(UK), would be greatly appreciated! :)

I have a 2008 XC90, when replacing the struts and control arms, do I have to replace the two strut bolts, and the three control arm bolts?

This is probably the front of the car, do you guys have a video in how to replace the lower driver side rear harm on a V70 2003, it is a bitch of a job, I believe the all rear assembly need to come down because there is no space to remove the arm

Does this car had vibration issues?

Where can we get one of those ball joint press in tool?

Where's Baby Boy Ben???? :'(

Is it okay to reuse the old bolts on the caliper bracket?

I don't see any torque specs in the description, in the comments, and didn't see the fasteners torqued in the video. So were they torqued down later? Do you not need to? What are the torque specs, if you don't mind? Thank you. Love your channel.

Torque specs would have been a nice touch.

Hi, how to get this press tool to ball joint?

Hi Jason! Is it crucial to tighten the ball joint nut with the break disc unit hanging out? I only tightened it by hand first and then when drive shaft and strut bolts where all tightened only then did I torque up and tighten the ball joint nut. The reason why I'm asking is that my wheels are leaning to the inside on both sides. Lower part of the wheel that is.

Wondering, where's the NO Press Needed part ? Any idea, coz i saw a press being used.

waaa, no Nm wrench used🤯 just brute forcing . fast but not to spec.

What are the torque specifications?

Do you guys have a video that shows how to remove and replace the rear Upper arm of the Volvo v70 2003, someone hit the back of my tire and bend it my upper arm, there is no space to remove it unless the all assembly needs to drop and tat is a pain in the ass, this the the dumbest design that I ever see, thanks

I'm only a DIY mech but man you did this the hard way!! No need for disc/hub removal... but also the video is way too dark so cant see it well, then you say no press needed etc ref removing lower ball joint then break out a fricking air chisel!!! I'm guess many get stuck at removing lower ball joint as its pressed in.. be it lightly but it gets corroded and I cant remove mine.. AKA Video no help!! to others trying I'm afraid its a pain in the bottom and with normal tools you need a heavy duty flat head with a hit spot and a heavy hammer, cant see any other way without air tools.. anyway back to it

how many of you folks own a car lift at home to fix your car.

lol

To dark

This is not helpful you did edit the video on hard moments

Very very badly

Why do you lie? Step 1: remove bolt for tie rod Except you don’t say the tie rod just spins and you need to use a wrench while you clamp the bolt so it doesn’t spin. Why do you lie?