Thanks for this one, Ted. I had an intermittent no crank condition on one of my 44s last season. Drove me mad until I got the wiring diagram and traced things out. Turns out it was corrosion across the normally closed contacts of the stop relay. I did a wholesale change of all relays in both motors and it's been good ever since. Thanks for the video!
Love the KAD44 videos Ted. Learned a plethora of information from you. One thing I hate is how my gauge voltage is lower than actual charging voltage due to these diodes. I was having charging issues awhile ago and couldn't understand why alternator voltage was so much different than my gauge voltage. Then traced it down to the diodes. Almost a full volt voltage drop across it. Everything I've read, this was normal. Anyways, Thanks for the videos. Keep the kad44 videos coming!
Hi Ted, firstly, thank you for these great videos! I wonder if you or any of your subscribers could help me with a small problem I'm having with the port side engine. When I first turn the key, the engine starts fine, and no fault codes appear on the diagnostics button. However, as soon as I start moving the boat, the port side engine seems to go into neutral and loses all power, leaving the boat without any movement. When I try to switch the engine off and back on again, it’s completely dead and won’t restart. I tried resetting it a few times using the diagnostic button, but this time it doesn’t reset at all. Upon checking the diagnostic fault code, it’s showing code 3.2, which relates to the temperature sender. I’ve checked the sender, and it seems fine. Any idea what could be causing this? I’d appreciate any feedback. Cheers!
Hey Ted, Thanks a lot for your explanation. Do you have any fuel consumption diagrams of this engine 🤔... I thinking to use only one engine for slow driving 5to6kt at 1k to 1.250rpm. I have a shaft driving propeller. So i think i have bo problems with the gearbox of the not running engine. The exhaust have a rubber closing thing outside, so no water came into the engine over the Turbo and exhaust valve. So i think i can go by only one engine without damage anything in the not running engine. What do you think? And what do you think about the fuel consumption that i can safe? I guess it was about 30 to 40% . The gearbox is always filled with oil, so it doesn't matter if some gears rotate when the propeller turns from the running water. Thank you very much Greetings from the north sea of Germany 🇩🇪 Marcus
Am inspecting a 2000 model boat. It has Rust in coolant KAD44 on the “fresh water side” Do you have a recommendation for treatment. Also I am wondering if this might be the symptom and not the problem
It is hard to tell why rust would be in the coolant, but not changing it on a regular basis would be a likely culprit. The recommendation is to remove the drains, drain the coolant system and flush it with good tap water (no well water) let the water flow into the expansion tank until it runs clear out of all the drains. Stop filling and install drains, Refill with distilled water and run the engine until it reaches operating temp. Let cool, drain again, then refill with Volvo Penta coolant. Use what was in it, if green stay green, if yellow stay yellow. Green should be changed every 2 years, Yellow every 5.
