Volvo Penta steering actuator removal step by step 

I just did mine on my 1988 OMC Cobra, same engine as yours. I removed both exhaust manuifolds with the elbows still attached and then had good access. The hardest part were the 4 cotter pins, one on each bolt that holds it to the transom and the smaller ones for the steeing arm and steeing cable. The bottom bolt on the actuator is a little hard to get at but I was able to get it off. My actuator is the older style Bendix one with the seperate control valve that is actually rebuildable, parts are available because the same unit was used on older Corvettes and Mustangs, among other cars. On those both the control valve and hydraulic cylinder can be rebuilt. Yours is the newer style that started being used in about 1990.

Dude. Thanks for this. Took me 3 hours but I couldn't have done it without this video. And for the record Id rather get a root canal with no anesthesia while listening to mumble rap than do this again. You're my hero.

Thank you for creating this video. This was very helpful as I prepared (dreaded) to remove the steering actuator in my boat recently!

Thank You for the video, same issue here on a LSR 1900

If replacing the cylinder, what part would be used? I see the Volvo part has opposite fittings for the hoses, Does that matter?

Man this is an excellent excellent video thank you

Merci beaucoup ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤

2008 Monterey 194fs First Im going to use hairpins instead of cotter pins when I replace. Hardest was the big bolt on the bottom to remove the cotter pin. After a lot of trying to punch it through finally grabbed the loop of the cotter with a punch and tried to wedge it out and my biggest fear was realized and it broke in half. This is after 3 mo of working on it off and on. Then I got an angle drill with chuck {drill attachment} from Harbor freight with a 1/8th bit and grilled it completely out in about 5 min. Used the next size bigger bit to clean it out. Still Had some bits of the aluminum cotter pin when the bolt came out but did not get in the threads unscrewing it. Probably more an issue crewing it in having pieces of the pin in there. I had to cut the big pin in half that attaches to the transom with a sawzall. It was still stuck at the bottom so I had to cut it below the transom attachment. Finally got the actuator out and had to punch the rest of the pin out with a hammer. Not sure why it was stuck. I will probably get longer pins to replace all of them. Sent to 5 star Marine to rebuild. Replacing the hydraulic pump when I install the actuator. It was making noise.

Thanks for the vid, it was very very helpful!

Thanks for this video

do you have the next video? got it out thanks to you, would rather put in orings for 60$ than 450 rebuild

I have same boat and I was told there's a grease fitting on that steering actuator is there actually one there or was I told wrong

hello friends, great job where did you find the gasket reconstruction kit?

Could i use hairpins instead of cotter pins? Way easier to install.

This went out on me this year- pricy!!